druxey

Another possibility to create the flare would be to spin the tube and feed a conical piece of wood against it.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 25 – Forward Cant Frames 2
 
 
American Clipper Note:  William Webb foresaw the end of the extreme clipper craze.  He came down to the dock to see Young America off on her first voyage in 1853 and remarked to the mate, “Take good care of her Mister, because after she’s gone there will be no more like her.” (Dunbaugh)  Webb turned his yard to the future.  Young America was his last extreme.  Within the next few years  there was a glut in clipper capacity and the premium freight rates they had enjoyed dropped off, ending demand for the type.  Some were slow to see the change, but Webb’s yard continued to prosper building medium clippers, steamships and even a huge ironclad, finished too late to enter the Civil War. 
 
This part will bring the forward cant framing to completion.
 
All of these frames were almost completely beveled before installation, as I became more comfortable with accuracy of the pin-indexed assembly.  With patterns left on both faces of the assembled frames, each could be cut back to the green lines on the forward face and the red lines on the aft face using disk and spindle sanders.  The sides were then shaved flat to those lines as shown below, using a carver's rasp. 
 

 
This tool leaves a very smooth surface requiring little or no sanding.  The work can be held by hand and/or with the aid of a vise.
 
The next picture shows the clamping of the second frame on the port side.
 
 
 
The clamping of these can be awkward, requiring long-reach clamps and gripping of angled surfaces.  A starboard side frame is being installed below.
 

 
In the next picture the last frame is being installed – with simpler clamping.  The position of each frame was checked with the square from the base drawing when glued in place.
 

 
Although the bevel angles of the joint faces were put on each pattern during lofting, there was still need for some refinement to get the proper installed angle.  Each mortise also required some trimming for a good final fit.
 
With all the frames installed, fair lines for the bolt holes were drawn and the simulated iron bolts installed.  In the next picture a black monofilament bolt is being cut off at the surface after gluing.
 

 
The excess CA glue was washed off with acetone and the bolts leveled off with a file.  The next picture shows the finished bolting on the port side.
 

 
The last two pictures show the finished bolting - six 1 1/8" iron blunts per pair driven flush..
 

 
The thread line seen in these pictures was used to center the half frame pairs.  It is hung by a weight off the center of the sternpost so it can be pushed out of the way or removed when required.
 

 
In the next part the remaining half-frames will be installed, completing the frame setting of the forward hull.
 
Work is progressing much more rapidly than I expected.  I think this is mainly due to the pin-indexed frame assembly and the improved beveling method.
 
 
Ed
 
 
 

It's been a few months since I've posted an update to my build log of Speedwell. All four platforms are now in place, as are the shot locker and galley stove. Besides the wales, there will be very little external planking in order not to cover those wacky, fun to make shifted and cast toptimbers.
 

The single wale was made of holly and stained with Fiebings black leather dye (off the model).
 

The two completed fore platforms
 
The very small shot lockers accommodate the three pound cannon balls
 

The very small shot lockers accommodate the three pound cannon balls
   
The galley stove was made of brass over a holly plug

good afternoon
Please help in finding information about the  number, weight of anchors, which allowed  for each ship in the Royal  Navy in the late 18th century. Maybe there's method of calculating the weight of the anchor according to the tonnage of the ship? I'm interested in the weight of the anchor for the 22gun brig-сutter 342 tons in 1788   Plan showing the measurements for anchors as well as descriptions, diagrams, and dimensions fo rh anchors up to 80 hundredweight in divisions of one cwt. From Tyne & Wear Archives Service, Blandford House Dated: 1794   thank you

I’ve installed the gun deck clamps now and have started on the beams.
 

 
Here you see the plans of what the gun deck will hopefully look like once completed.
 

 
Here you see the beams set temporarily in place and marked out for the placement
of various carlings, beams and half beams.
 

 
Here is a beam the goes between two deck beam, # 3 & 5 as well as the half beam.
 

 
And here it is set in place.
 

 

 
 
I will just work my way from one end to the other filling in the carlings, ledges and knees as I go.  

I’ve completed the second layer of decking for the mortar pit. I assembled it off the model again
gluing black construction paper between the planks to simulate the caulking. The planks are a
different width and did end up over lapping the lower decking most of the time. One seam lined
up on each side so there shouldn’t be a concern with strength is it was that way in full scale.
 
 
After I did the initial assembly I then marked the circle for the mortar and cut close to the
line with the scroll saw.
 

 
I then used the dremel with a sanding drum to finish it.
 

 
I then glued the second decking to the first. I also have drilled it for the treenails
 

 
 
After looking at the plans I noticed that between the top beams for the shot room, the
deck beam, and the two layers of decking it would have been 3’ 4” thick on the actual ship!
That’s a lot of support for what I assume to be a very heavy gun. 

Go for it guy's make lots and lots of pins  They are key to position parts temporarily, I don't exaggerate but I think any particular beam in this build is taken in and out at least 100 times to position parts, mark mortices etc etc. 
 
So today I did a little detailing of the gratings. I simulated the pins that were used by making small holes with a needle and then taking the same needle tip loaded with graphite to enhance the holes. This really takes your mind off-line  after a busy day 
 

 

 

 
For comparison, the 'big' bolts on the corners are 0,4 mm
 
Remco
 

It looks like a Far East knock-off of a Gerstner tool box. Gerstners come in various sizes and configurations. They are the Rolls-Royce of toolboxes, if you can afford the real thing!

It looks like a Far East knock-off of a Gerstner tool box. Gerstners come in various sizes and configurations. They are the Rolls-Royce of toolboxes, if you can afford the real thing!

Well done, Toni. I cut those mortises on my table saw but your results with a no.11 blade look equally good.

Some closeup of the gunnel and deadeyes...

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 24 – Forward Cant Frames
 
 
American Clipper Note: American Clippers not only sailed fast, they were built fast.  Impatient customers demanded it.  A yard would normally launch two from the same slip in a year.  Many were built in close to three months time and one 200-footer, John Bertram, in 61 days.  There were a number of reasons for this productivity.  First there was increased division of labor and the creation of trades.  Gone was the all-around shipwright in favor of gangs for specific tasks.  Steam driven machinery was widely deployed.  McKay, and perhaps other large yards, used steam driven bevel-saws that could be adjusted to the angle of the frame bevel while running.  This alone cut frame fabrication time by a factor of six, using but three men.  Steam derricks were used to raise frames and other heavy timbers, vs. a common practice of everyone dropping what they were doing to lend a hand.  Making treenails was no longer a rainy day make-work job done manually with axes and spoke shaves.  Instead treenails were rapidly turned out in by steam driven lathes.
 
 Back in the model shop, the all-around shipwright plods along.
 
The first picture shows the most forward cant frames being assembled.  Exactly the same pin-indexed alignment method is being used.
 

 
After assembling these roughed out pieces, the frames are beveled and the patterns removed.  The sidings of the upper futtocks are then reduced and the bolts installed.
 
In the next picture this has been done and the starboard frame is being fitted up into the mortise cut for it earlier.
 

 
Some paring of the mortise sides and bottom was done to neatly fit the frame.  In the next picture, the clamping has been set up in preparation for gluing the frame in.
 

 
The clamps were then removed, glue was applied and the clamps replaced.  After drying, the clamps were removed, the frames faired and the six iron bolts into the deadwood installed, as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Stem supports had to be removed for much of this work – usually one side at a time.  In the next picture the port frame has been installed and is being faired with a flat riffler, followed by sanding.
 

 
No project is without rework.  I have normally been making toptimbers from smaller 9-inch stock so these very visible members will be consistently sized - unlike lower timber sidings that have been filed or machined back after pattern removal.  In the case of these first cant frames, this reduced siding at the top left a small gap at the adjoining hawse timbers that can be seen in the last two pictures.  This was an oversight when I lofted the frames.  Rather than delay the erection, I decided to install the frames, then replace the toptimbers - before the glue had set overnight.  The next picture shows the starboard toptimber being removed with the aid of a razor blade in the glue joint.
 

 
No glue was applied on the forward side of this piece, so it was easy to separate with light taps along the joint.  The next picture shows the piece being removed, essentially intact.
 

 
In this picture the port side toptimber has been removed and not yet replaced. 
In the last picture the new larger top timbers have been installed and the joints with the hawse timbers closed up. 
 

 
Installation of the forward half frames has been suspended until all of the cants are in place – to leave room for that work.
 
 
Ed

Thanks for the compliments Elmer , and Crackers.
 
I have been thinking about my build entries and like the style that Ed Tosti uses for his entries so I am going to see how it works from here on the numbers are starting at number nine because I have made 8 posts recently regarding the cabin structure. I will follow a similar pattern for different areas in the future.
 
Cabin Structure. part 9
 
After gluing up the sides and beams I noticed that I had not done as good a job making the beams line up on the top profile and this caused a problem with the gluing of the planks. My solution was to sand down the sides and ends to match the middle beams rather than removing the beams. this then ensured that all the curved surfaces were identical.
 
I made a long sander with some 220 grit and carpet tape strip of oak.
 
 

 
I used the narrow side first then the wide side to finish, i did not see the need to go any finer than the 220 grit because all the surfaces will be covered with glue and other wood.
 

 
This allowed me to set some new pine strips that were all the same thickness as the fir planks. These strips were glued to the perimeter and across the separation beam.
 

 

 
The fir planks will be pre drilled for the "screw plugs" (small dowels) before being glued to the top then the dowels and caulking before fitting the companion way slide logs and hatch.
 
Michael
 

Michael -
 
Teriffic woodworking on the cabin.  The huge 'sanding stick' is an elegant solution to the problem.  The joinery is superb.  You should consider submitting some photos to Fine Woodworking for their Reader's Gallery.when you are done.
 
Thanks for sharing, as always.
 
Be well
 
Dan

The mortises provide positive locations for the cants. These can be very helpful, even if they are invisible in the finished model, Greg.

after removing the clamps here is the result

 

 
 
on the right side

 

I started fixing belts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I placed the planking of the bottom of the transom, must, I think, before tightening the belts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you!!!.......
 
In order to block the stern oar in a more stable manner, on the excesses of the oarlocks I have tentatively set a provisional "crowning glory"  that I will take away when I have completed the transom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you, friends!
 
Slowly the work going on, I started the construction of the transom: of course is yet to block and finish, especially the two stern oar that for security (or insecurity) I made them abundant

 

 

 

 

 
 

Ron, thanks for stopping by.
 
Today I worked on the edge moulding for the hatch sides the split tube design was described in the fourth edition of "Boat Building Manual" by Robert M Seward on page 244 showing typical slide details.
I developed a drawing and the split tube needed to mate to the edge of the mahogany board which is 1/8th inch thick or 1 inch in scale. the boards still need to be tapered and spline d before joining them.
 

 
Set up the mill
 

 

 

 
Michael

I would definitely cut in a demarkation line as insurance against bleeding. Masking tape alone will not prevent dye 'creep'. To do an experimental run off-model is a very good move!

Congratulations on your second start! I hope you'll be happy with the cherry this time.

Cherry ready for the bandsaw
 

 
The cherry cut and ready to be milled.
 

 
It was worth the time and effort.
 
Tulip on the left and Cherry on the right
 

 
Start of the new build in cherry.
In the back ground is the one made from tulip.
 

Another photos...