druxey

Actual pics:

 
Please enjoy the pics, soon I am going to bring new ones.
Best regards,
Doris

I also fixed the sleepers of the formwork, but first I had to make the last beam, with a particular shape as it follows the curve of the transom and gets stuck there.
 
I also started to open a gunboat

 

 

 

 

I finished the keelson, and then I started laying dormant bridge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello, I have finished assembling of cant frames.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

You are indeed a fortunate fellow, Jim! While I don't own a copy, I have seen this tome. It appears to show the ship's restoration and only fairly reflects her state at that time. It does not show the ship 'as built' or in her various other intermediate appearances. I understand that some of the features of her restoration have since been queried or disproved. That said, it appears to be an excellent and exhaustive document on her 20th century restoration.

Woodrat is quite correct in his translation, Brian. it does mean 'big belly' or 'fat belly'!

The cannon rigging  part one

The Breech

The breeching tackle serves to prevent the gun after firing, to fly through over the deck. ( Secular terms )

Scientists would / express something else incomprehensible : mass times the muzzle velocity , including the air temperature and humidity = measured at the shoe size of the gunner .......... etc. etc. results in ::: A breeching takle is required !

The breeching tackle by the guns of the Royal Caroline was probably spliced ​​behind the breech around the trowel .

To install this required a device :

A bracket in the final length of the breeching takle and the cannon was to build.
Simultaneously, a device for positioning of the gun was used .

 

The gun barrel is inserted into the bore of the holder ; Breeching rope to the standoffs attached and the splice been marked on the dew.

 

The splice is a rope / thread in the strength of strands (3  or more strands laid together forming a rope)
The splice is then threaded into a needle and pricked with the needle through the rope placed around the trowel and out on the other side through the cable .
On the way back you wrap the splice depending on the length of 3 - 4 times to the existing Part.  At the end back through the rope out it goes back in the same way ( wrapped ) .
Thereby the end is not too thick, splice the stand again to the left or right through the dew, leave a small piece and cut .
Now there is a fixed eye spliced ​​to the existing breechrope .
In this way, all eyes and cringels (on sail)  can be made. This not only looks good, it is by working technically still correct !

   
 
 



Now the work is still dressed and ready is the breechrope on the trowel


   


The next step is to attach the eyebolt on breechrope .

Therefor the gun is fixed to the mounting board and fastened to the retaining ring bolt in the assembly position .

     
 


So it looks when the ring bolt is fastened . The glue ( white glue ) is wrapped with serving .




On the ship the ring bolts will installed for the guntackle and tackle .

   
 
The second part - guntackle and takle fastening follow soon .


Until then, good luck with your projects

Perhaps install just a small section of deck and a few guns on one side, rather than all the armament? Then the deck structure will remain visible. However, it's your model - and a magnificent one, either way.

If it's British naval armament history and extreme detail you want, and have deep pockets, the two volumes by Adrian Caruana are the ultimate in this field.

Michael: you would need to maintain the geometry of the points in order for the calibration to remain accurate.
 
Elia: the rack and pinion move the pivot unit, so that it adjusts the proportionality. If you need to re-calibrate the instrument, you would need to loosen and slide the points - a fiddly task to avoid doing, if possible!
 
As a P.S., I've only ever seen one other set with this cranked style of point, so assume that they are rare. And, as I noted before, I seldom use them; so they remain fairly pristine!

All the more reason not to use ebony in model work! (As if there weren't enough reasons already!)

Merry Christmas and beautifully done, Gary. I'm sure that the maple will 'settle down' visually as the air oxidizes the surface over time. Fresh cut wood always seems so bright. Look at the fresh cut surface of any wood and compare it to the outer side that was sitting in the shop to get the comparison.

Perhaps install just a small section of deck and a few guns on one side, rather than all the armament? Then the deck structure will remain visible. However, it's your model - and a magnificent one, either way.

Michael: you would need to maintain the geometry of the points in order for the calibration to remain accurate.
 
Elia: the rack and pinion move the pivot unit, so that it adjusts the proportionality. If you need to re-calibrate the instrument, you would need to loosen and slide the points - a fiddly task to avoid doing, if possible!
 
As a P.S., I've only ever seen one other set with this cranked style of point, so assume that they are rare. And, as I noted before, I seldom use them; so they remain fairly pristine!

Michael, what I have are these. The set must be vintage if not antique, and are in excellent condition, as you can see.

Michael, what I have are these. The set must be vintage if not antique, and are in excellent condition, as you can see.

I think you are on track with your keel/false keel joints, except you might wish to shift the joints of the false keel aft. The first section likely to touch would be aft, so that might be shorter. As the false keel joints do not contribute to the structural integrity of the ship, it's not critical to stagger them exactly half-way between the keel joints. I'd keep any keel taper to the cant frame areas as well. Good stuff, Joss
 
P.S. Some of us like history: those that don't will skip it anyway!

Michael, what I have are these. The set must be vintage if not antique, and are in excellent condition, as you can see.

Hi Slog
 
All I did was to heat the end about 1 inch at the tip to cherry red then quenched it in cold water. it was not quite hard tested it with a file, so heated it again to a very cherry red and again quenched it in the same water and then it was hard. I thought about tempering it but decided not to. if it is too brittle I will temper it that means heating it up again but watching very carefully the colour of the oxide forming on the polished surface I would take it to a dark straw colour then quench it again.
 
I did use Drill Rod which comes in just about every size up to 1 inch in 36 inch lengths. it has a ground finish and is great for making tools.
 
To soften the steel heat it to cherry red and let it cool slowly.
 
To case harden mild steel heat to hot as possible without melting it and plunge it into some carbon powder, reheat and repeat a few times and you have a hard coating on the mild steel.
 
 
Michael

Today I needed a long small chisel
 
To make what I needed I began with a piece of 5/32 drill rod and filed the end into a rectangular section.
 

 
this was then polished up with some wet and dry sandpaper stuck to a strip of wood.
 

 
After hardening the end only the bevel was ground ready for shapening.
 

 

 
Finally a handle was fashioned from a piece of hard maple.
 

 
Michael

Um, from the way everything is set up and lit, I'd say that was shot in a studio in a partially mocked up 'shed'.

Gaetan: I agree that a top-grade set of dividers such as the one in your pictures can be very useful in certain circumstances. My own decimal set, with rack and pinion, also have the points cranked to a right-angle, so that you can lay the dividers horizontally. However, for most model-making applications the radiating scale and tick strip are more practical, I find.

Of course, these are nice old-fashioned and very maritime looking tools. Would like to have one, but there is not much point investing somewhere between 50 and 100 EUR for a tool that in practices wouldn't have much use for me. A divider with lockable legs is a very useful tool for marking out equal distances and the likes and the proportionality function can be easily replaced by a vernier caliper together with a pocket calculator.
 
For marking out equal distance along a curved line, such as along a frame for plank widths, I would prefer the paper-strip methods described by others above. It avoids the building up of errors by measuring from succeeding end-points.
 
At the small scales I am working in the proportional dividers would also be far to clumsy.
 
wefalck 

Thanks John and Bob for stopping by.
 
This evening I replaced the fife rail with a slightly longer one with shaped ends it is hard maple.
 
The first rail

 
And the new one
 

 
The new one has a greater scope for operation.
 
I have also begun shaping the forward hatch, it will have a pair of lights that will hinge up.
 
Michael

First thank you all for your kind remarks, and all the likes.
 
New Cockpit part 4
 
Regarding the deck oxidation at the moment there is no surface treatment on it it is just a scraped finish, so a final scraping before applying the teak oil should take care of it.
 
I have begun gluing together the boards for the flat areas of the cockpit these have a micro bevel on all four edges this will need a little touching up before the final varnish.
 

 
The corners have been rough sanded to shape now, when all the walls are complete and glued together I will make the cap by laminating a few .020" veneers together around  formers for the corners when it is shaped and finished it will be stronger than a bent piece and will look like a solid piece. similar to this bent piece as part of a wicker seat which was made by bending a group of veneers around a stainless steel strip and gluing them. After they had set up they were removed from the strip then shaped with files and sanded.
 

 
The next picture shows the top edge of the flat section.
 

 
I will need to make a new grating for the floor or rework the edges with some new boards.
 
Michael