druxey

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

Thank you, Roel 
 
 
 Tom, let it suffice to say since taking over cooking duties I've lost 14 pounds. I don't like cooking, it's just not my thing and yes, I much relieved that Maggie is at the point that she's getting where she can move back into the chief cooking role. 
 
 
 Thank you, Bob. She don't need no stuffed penguin and chocolates to make her smile, she has me! 
 
 
 Thank you, Keith. I consider knitting one those womanly mysteries I best left be. 
 
 
 Thank you, Brian. 
 
 
 Thank you, Gary. An easy rhythm to life is a good life. 
 
 
 Thank you, Glen. As soon as I hit the send button I'm making my way upstairs for some ole finger retraining. 
 
 Thank you to all for the likes and for following along. You guys bless my heart in so many ways, thank you for being you. 

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

Thank you John / Gary.
 
It is time to start what I anticipate to be a long planking job.
 
I am starting at the bulwark. I plan to plank the hull with mahogany planks of .062" thickness by nominally .220" wide. The plank widths will obviously vary to conform with the hull shape as progress is made. The bulwark will be made from a nominally 1" wide by  .032" thick birch ply which will be clad with .032" mahogany planks as per the attached sketch.

The bitch ply cannot follow the line of the bulwark exactly without shaping so it is being put on to sit slightly above the line of the capping rail. It will be cut back to the capping rail shape later in the build.
 
I started by glueing bits of scrap wood to the frames. These position / support the plywood during gluing. Each one cut back to  conform with the shape the plywood strip wants to take.

At this stage I also did the final sanding of the hull.

Then followed the slow process of fitting the plywood strakes. They were glued in position with a ample layer of PVA wood glue.
The strakes were held in place with plenty of notice board pins and elastic bands while the glue dried.

The plywood sheet wasn't long enough to extend the full length of the hull and the stern needed separate strips.


I didn't get one to the frames right and this was revealed "too late" by the application of the bulwark strakes. I will need to correct this before I plank the bulwarks. Stupidly having noticed the mistake I the repeated it on the other side. There is no fool like an old fool.

Applying the bulwark strake to the stern was quite challenging due to the extreme curvature.

Before attaching the ply to the stern I slotted it with a series of horizontal cuts.

With a bit of fiddling this enabled it to wrap around the stern.

A bit of sanding produced an acceptable shape for subsequent planking.

That all for now folks!
 

Hi Rick - yes let us hope she goes to a good home. I fear that she isn't suitable for the usual super yacht brigade. 
 
Welcome Bob I hope you enjoy the remainder of the build, you may need to patient I am not fast. 
 

That looks really nice, Mark. Those small brass nails were called panel pins in England, I believe. I have a stash of them that used to be my father's. 

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

Hollywood does tend to operate that way.

That looks really nice, Mark. Those small brass nails were called panel pins in England, I believe. I have a stash of them that used to be my father's. 

I enlarged it and it indeed looks like another vessel or some such behind it.
Allan

To allanyed: Material used for this part is boxwood. The part is made using a cnc milling machine, which enables precise milling from both sides. The procedure can be seen in the photos in post 8.
I continue with the construction of the wing transom.
     

I started the outer stem & keel piece, that goes from the deck at the bow around to the keel. I decided to glue laminate it in one piece, partly because - as with the glued planks replicating strip planking - this is more akin to the way the actual yacht was constructed, as a timber / epoxy composite construction.
 
I had some sheets of Sapele from something & even the 1.75mm (maybe 1/16th) thick wasn't happy doing the curve, with heating. I had some 2.5 thick strips of Huon Pine, & they were happy to do it, with a bit of heat from the hot air gun. I'd rather a harder timber, but oil based enamel paint is quite tough.
 
I came across some tiny fine brass nails that I had bought & didn't use on a model, & decided to try using them to ensure the laminating is a close fit to the hull shape. Partly because the timber needs a finished thickness of 5mm, & with 2 @ 2.5mm there wasn't much adjustment possible. Anyway, it looks to have worked well, & hopefully hasn't been glued to the hull... I left about 1mm of nail sticking out, so I can pull them out.
 
It worked nicely:

 
Except for 2 (where a little more oomf was need to hold the timber in), the nail heads are left projecting a little to aid removal:

 
Here's where you can see how well this worked - no gaps! Helped by the general pliability of Huon.

thanks

I also noticed the disparity mentioned by Craig. However, a closer look revealed a structure beyond the bow of about the same tone. Perhaps the vessel behind her? Certainly an interesting subject, Jond!

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

Interesting collection of accessories. The wiring looks a but dodgy, though! Caveat emptor.

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

Well, Chris, you are mastering a number of basic techniques that you can apply to more complex models later. As for the thwarts, it's much easier to trim them down to fit than to stretch them! You did a particularly nice job at the bow transitioning from clinker to flush at the stem. Well done.

Beautiful work in the hold, Gary.
 
John

Another enlargement:
 
Santos_Dumont_N-18g.zip
 
It looks like the front foil (and I think the back) had suspension:
 

So starting back at it we have the inside painted.
 

 
After a few rounds of touch up back and forth it's painted. I decided to paint the bands green also. I like it.
 

 
I'm happy with the detail on the bow and stern. I looked at a lot of pictures and they're all just a little bit different from each other. Haha.
 


 
Just don't like the heavy looking paint job at this scale.
 
When it came time to fit the thwarts I needed to deepen the slots for the frames. My #16 blade was really helpful here. I guess my dory was a little thinner than most? I had to trim down most of the thwarts but not the middle couple very much. This shows one slot trimmed but not the ends yet.
 

 

 
Still need to shape the oars and the thole pins, I'm having a great time with it for sure.
More to come...
 
Chris

Rob, that sounded like excellent advice on the sanding sealer. I’m used to working with hardwood, so this soft stuff is foreign to me. Sure sands and carves easily though! 
Anyway I sprayed it with Deft sanding sealer then gave it a nice light sand. Seemed like a nice finish for paint. Another lesson learned; I need to pay more attention to glue cleanup during construction. I spent quite a bit of effort cleaning up dry glue on the inside of the hull. Used 91% IPA, worked pretty well. My point though is that you can still see plenty of it after the paint. 
I’ll be posting some pics here soon and I’d appreciate more opinions and guidance. 
 
Thanks!
 Chris

Very nice job! The gunwales look great. I'm glad to hear my build log was useful. I'm not totally sure on an appropriate thickness for the thread, you can probably eyeball it by finding photos of an old bucket with a rope handle. 
 
Also, I don't think you lost the false stem, as far as I can tell the instructions just don't mention that it should be made of scrap.

You are looking great. A suggestion, use several coats of sanding sealer before painting. The acrylic pain tends to raise the grain on the wood. Also the idea is not new to me but you can modify the binder clips you use as clamps by using the handles to make a base using either the loop end or the other end as the picture I added shows. They are really handy!

So this part isn't easy to document, a lot of sanding and shaping.

Question- Did I lose the false stem? I never saw one so I used a piece of scrap and shaped it...
 
Bands on.
 

 
I notched the frames for the gunwales, but I guess I should have gone farther down. I only cut back 1/16" since that's the size of the wood. Well with the angle of the sides after I sanded them mostly level there isn't a lot of thickness left on the inboard edges of the gunwales. Did I do something wrong?
I sanded the faces a little to give them the look of some thickness.
 

 
Breast hook shaped and glued in.
 

 
I think I'm going to call this pretty much ready to paint. I may do a little more shaping of the bow after I look at some photos this evening.
Need to pick up some sort of primer in the morning so paint will have to wait anyway.
 
 
Overall I think I'm happy with the planking/beveling and shaping of the bow.
 

 
A couple of questions for those reading all this. If I make a rope bucket what size of rope do you think will look best?
(I did shorten the handle on my water bailer substantially after finding JacquesCousteau's build log. Thanks for that!)
 
Having a great time with this little kit. A few more and better pictures in the instructions would be helpful. Especially regarding the bands, gunwales and bow shape. If it wasn't for all of you that have posted your logs newbies like me would be lost.
 
Thanks!!

Chris