Tigerdvr

The rigging really sets the model off, well done.

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Assembly of the deck structures required some patching. I am using a putty which is new to me. Perfect Plastic Putty manufactured by Deluxe Materials works well and has no odor at all.
While forming a construction plan, I decided to not follow the kit instruction sequence. I have to consider painting and detail/PE installation. I’m building subassemblies with the less fragile PE parts installed. All the subassemblies will be brought to the primer stage so I can prime them in groups.

I recently completed the 1/350 USS Alaska. That experience is proving to be a blessing and a curse. Construction experience particularly with PE is a blessing. The research material and the MSW build logs shows what details are possible to recreate, sort of a curse. Now I see details in pictures that I previously didn’t see or wouldn’t think of trying to build. I find myself spending a lot of time checking photos on the various references that I have gathered. Meanwhile trying to make sure that I stay as close to the Kidd configuration as possible.                                                  

The superstructure components were assembled, patched where necessary, had base PE like hatches/doors, ladders, and fire hoses added. .3mm plastic strip is used for rails on the super structure etc. Some of the hatches are shown open using White Ensign doors.


Clay makes a handy part holder. A bulkhead was added to reinforce the structure because of the open doors. The wheelhouse needed the windows enlarged a hair. The open hatch/door needed a port added because it overlaps the port in the bulwark. To open the doorway I drilled progressively larger holes and then finished the shaping with a file-carefully.


Some views, nothing glued to the deck--


More to follow- - - 
 
 

Hi All,
Back in Perth for a week and finished the Crusader off.
 
Last time back I managed to prime all the under carriage components and wheel well doors and now finished them up with colour coats and the last of the wheel decals and a couple of No stand stencils on the doors.


Got to say the landing gear and wheels on these birds are pretty spindly compared to Phantoms and Hornets etc.
I forget about the resin wheel well door actuators to go with the resin wheel bay, which have a couple of arms to slot on to the doors. One of the brackets was broken off but found in the box and easily fixed with a drop of CA.  Shown being trial fitted before painting and gluing.

 
Lastly a few bits and pieces of photo etch in and around the cockpit and the previously made HUD finishes it off.

 
It was gloss clear coated previously for the decals and this time wanted to finish it a satin but only had Tamiya Gloss and matt so tried mixing it 50:50 to see if that gives satin.
Finished







I did leave off a few little bits and pieces and had a big picture of weathering it in my head but ultimately bottled out as what I did wasn’t turning out how I envisaged and didn’t want to mess with it anymore.  However the photos don’t really capture the weathering/staining I did do very well.
 
It’s certainly not up to Plasmo or Scale-a-ton standards but considering it’s my first plastic build since my adolescent Airfix days I am pretty chuffed how it turned out.  It was great fun and learned lots of lessons for the next one.  Hope to get a few days on the Borodino before heading off again next weekend.
 
Cheers
Slog

The one thing that 1/700 offers is smaller Dio's and there are some guys out there doing some eye catching work don't know if I will ever be able to achieve those results.I think one that does that kind of work are artist in some regards for they can see the big picture me not so much I can then I can't.The 1/700 goes together quicker but I need to figure out what those guys are doing rigging which I was fighting with it tonight with stretched sprue and the rigging on any ship makes it pop.I have ordered up some pieces for the 1/700 Ise and will see how it plays out and if I have the eyesight/patience for it.This guy doe some fantastic work that puts you right there.  http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=191192

That moulded raised area is actually covered wioth non-skid.  During WWII, that was a coating that had some asphaltic material in it; ost war it was a rubberized compound that had grit embedded in it while wet.

Repair compound ws stockpiled aboard, usually next to the forward paint locker, and the Special Sea and Anchor Detail was meant to not secure until  touch-ups were complete (unless in horrible seas).  Ditto pain on the exposed chain shots on deck and the wildcat flutes on the capstans.

On capital ships, particularly flag ships with Flag Officers aboard, the SSaAD would usually send a hand down the hawsepipe to touch up the paint on the anchor shank and such of the hawse pipe as could be reached.
 
Capital ships were seldom more than three months out of a port or organized anchorage.  NOw, the bottom of the breakwater might collect some grunge as one got closer to the Area of Operations, where GQ drills got in the way of ongoing maintenance.  Mast legs and tops would be similar--just too much work to get people up there for paint duty (and painting was for Deck Apes, not Sparkies keeping the gear working).

Similarly, the steel deck around the ground tackle could collect crud, as it was exposed to the sea, as would the area in under the gun mounts on the Iowas.  The forwards edge of the wooden deck wouls go gray and show some weathering, too.
 
Mind, barring anything but a Saturday Inspection in port, or at GQ, the 20mm mounts would be in a blobby canvas cover painted to match the local camo color.  And, there ought be tompions in the 5" and 16" barrels--but casual obervers do not grok that at all.

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

This is more of a progress report than a build log. I am following Chuck's instruction sequence and methods so the masts are stepped to finish Chapter 17. The phone camera seems to distort the rake angle a bit. It looks better in person.
The only change from the kit materials is using Syren Company's blocks since they became available. I also switched from CA to Neutral ph Adhesive to secure lines during this phase of construction.
Building the Syren has been a great learning experience. MSW is an invaluable asset.
Standing rigging is next.
 
Cheers, Harley

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow
 

I wanted to build the “Anti-Kamakasi” upgrade of a Fletcher class destroyer. The kit is The Sullivans DD-527, offered by Trumpeter. The Sullivans was not upgraded to the Anti-Kamikasi configuration during the war. The USS Kidd did have the upgrade so I'm making the necessary changes to the Trumpeter kit.
Referred to as the Anti-Kamikaze Mod (AKM), the main upgrades include replacing the midship 40mm twins with 40mm quad mounts. The Mk 51 directors for the quads are moved from the rear stack to a structure where the forward torpedo tubes had been. The four midship 20mm Orlikon singles are replaced by four 20mm double mounts. Two twin 20mm mount replace the three single mounts on the fantail. There were other various electronic/radar/jamming installed. Each ship varied in their configurations
The Kidd was named after Rear Admiral Isaac C. Kidd who perished on the bridge of the USS Arizona at Peral Harbor. The Kidd is a National Historic Landmark berthed on the Mississippi River in Baton Rouge, LA.
The Trumpeter kit has components for a 1943 and a 1945 version. The instructions clearly define each version. As usual it’s important to go through the instructions particularly to avoid mixing up the 43 and 45 parts.
The kit is supplemented with photo etch mainly from Gold Medal Models. The GMM PE supplies parts compatible with the Trumpeter and Tamiya Fletcher models.
Master Model.PL, Alliance, Black Cat, Infini, White Ensign, and the parts box all provide additional details for this project.
Main reference: Classic Warship Publishing #45 Square Bridge Fletcher
 


Ready to start 
 
I intend on mounting the Kidd on an ocean base so the hull was formed in a full hull configuration rather than the optional waterline configuration. This gives me more room for the water effects. The rudder and screws will be left off for now. The lip(?) around the hawse pipe got sanded away while working on the bow. New ones were formed from plastic parts from the scrap box.
After the hull was assembled the deck was secured to the hull. The anchor detail was sanded off. The anchor gear will be replaced with real chain and a new capstan.



The bollards and chocks are removed. The bollards will be replaced and the chocks are part of the PE railings---
More to follow