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channell

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Everything posted by channell

  1. Just FYI Semore... there are no portholes on the hulls of the Iowa class ships. The kit has holes just above the waterline that are molded the size of portholes but on the real ship they are drain scuttles.
  2. I've got this monster (and CZ PE ) hiding away my stash too... looking forward to seeing it go together!
  3. Wow, congrats Semore! Not a small feat to finish one of these monster kits and your's is one of the best online.
  4. I took the holidays off but it about time to get back to work; here's a YouTube video of my current progress: https://youtu.be/oX-oZJO8Mds
  5. It's not wrong if it works! The only rule in scale modeling is "make it worthwhile to yourself" so you don't end up wasting a crap-ton of money on a project you end up hating... maybe "do your best" and "finish what you started" would be strong suggestions too, if not absolute rules. Everything else is just a tip or idea.
  6. I leave the molding base on the gun so I have something convenient to hold while assembling/painting, then cut it off with a razor saw after I'm done. Otherwise fingers work just fine for me on these kind of guns. I normally aim to get tiny stuff mounted to something temporarily otherwise, either by drilling a hole for a pin to stick into, clamping tweezers or sticking to double-sided tape on a piece of something big enough to hold onto. And yes, a good set of tweezers of various shapes is a must, as is a magnification of some kind (I use an optivisor)
  7. My bucket list: Meet my future great-grandchildren Dive down to the wreck of the Titanic Drink a glass of $10,000 scotch. Spend a night wandering alone aboard the USS Iowa See the eventual completion of Dafi's magnum opus Victory.
  8. Thanks for the kind comments everyone! I dove into the Veteran Models guns on Sunday... little model kits all by themselves: These are the 37mm FLAK Doppel C30's.... Bismarck has 8 of them. Don't think I have ever seen such tiny resin parts (especially with such fine detailing) but they are fun to assemble, albeit time-consuming.
  9. As a matter of fact, yes... they are either too short or the magazine rack is too big so they just don't look right, however. Too bad because it would have actually simplified assembly... instead of struggling to glue the tiny brass triangles in reasonably straight with gaps in between, one could just "pancake" the pieces together and get it perfect with little hassle. Oh well...
  10. 10 total... not too bad I guess. I survived building 65 20mm oerlikons for my Nelson but they were easy compared to these things.
  11. Quick post but it wasn't quick to build 'em: ... and VS the stock kit piece: Man these tiny little guns are A LOT of difficult work for me! The magazine racks on the base are especially nightmarish to put together.
  12. Seriously man, no flattery being pulled here, your Bissy really does look fantastic! Every good build of this size and complexity takes on the artistic stamp of it's builder... I'm seeing it here and I'm really liking your take on it. All the aftermarket details mesh together well with the kit and you are keeping a very high and consistent standard of workmanship throughout the build... not easy to pull off when a model takes more than a year to build with so many different sub assemblies, different aftermarket components from different companies and burnout inevitably comes an issue. I love it when model builds eclipse the line from "assembly" to "art" and it's really cool to see other artistic modeler's take on the same subjects I'm working on, especially when they are working at or above my own skill level. This one's a winner!
  13. Nope, no giant swastikas... that was done when Bismark got the Baltic Camouflage paintjob during her first and only refit in Jan '41
  14. ... and I finished step #3 over the weekend! Got the life rings and hose reels on... I decided to go with the KA PE life rings over the Pontos rings (Pontos provides little rubber o-rings that look a bit out of scale to me and aren't as flat as the real thing) As I had to glue the superstructure to the wood deck which in turn is only stuck to the plastic with wood glue (and the superstructure pieces had to be flexed a bit to sit entirely flat on the deck) I rigged up a quick and dirty setup with string and thick styrene strips to help hold the superstructure down and guard against future separation problems: I also added some stairways and rails on the back end of the superstructure: I also went around to every vent with a tiny needle and tried to poke out any parts of the vent screens that were clogged with paint/glue, most of 'em cleaned out just fine. I then hit the vents with a wash to darken them up a little. Still debating whether to attempt weathering the whole ship or going with a clean "museum style" build... what do you guys think would be better?
  15. Nope, I'm doing Bissy as she appeared late in 1940, before the camo pattern was applied. I'm also backdating the kit to look the same as the ship was technically incomplete at this stage and lacking several smaller improvements that were made in early 1941.
  16. I have no idea to be honest, I always thought it was an appearance thing, otherwise the light grey paint would get scuff marks. I'd imagine the whole ship used water resistant enamel paint otherwise.
  17. Got the back half of the lower superstructure knocked out... here's how it all looks so far: Next on the list is permanently attaching the superstructure, getting the little seam between the two gone, adding some PE rib supports where the two pieces meet and putting together/painting/ installing the life rings and fire hoses.
  18. Thanks! Hard to believe it's already been near 6 years since this kit hit the market and we all took over the model ship forums as we went to work on ours... There was A LOT of excitement for this thing back then, wasn't there? Good times... Anyhoo, It feels good to be back to work on one. .
  19. I'd take it... the $50 bucks we'd make after 500 hours could finance a bottle of the good stuff for the end-of-build celebration party... But yeah, Pontos is my go-to for detail sets. A lot of people on the interwebs seem to like to poo-poo Pontos as their PE is more complicated and difficult than the competition, their instructions tend to have more errors than Microsoft Windows and they routinely promise sets that never get released and/or release sets months after they say they will but there's no beating the end-results. I also like how Pontos makes a strong effort towards accuracy rather than just trying to add bling as well. There were many detail errors and omissions on the OOTB Trumpy kit bulkheads that I'm working on now for example... all the other detail sets just follow Trumpy's plan but Pontos wipes the bulkheads clean and starts over with details that are true to the actual ship. That's pretty cool in my opinion, even if it's a helluva lot of work.
  20. Making good progress! FYI, I've had problems getting paint to stick on my Trumpy boats in the past... when I did HMS Nelson, the paint came right off with the masking tape after I painted the lower hulls. You might want to prime the plastic with Tamiya rattlecan or similar stuff rather than airbrush primer to save some heartache.
  21. Had the day off yesterday and made a 10+ hour straight push on the aft superstructure... got it all cleaned up, primed the plastic and got maybe 60-70% of the PE on. I'm hoping I can get this piece done over the coming weekend... guess I'll see how it goes.
  22. I'd say the thicker too, though it does seem to be a bit stiff to sag in-scale in the samples. Maybe you could soften the string up or tease it a bit to look right when the guns get tied up for real?
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