BLACK VIKING

Oars and the klides on which the oars were binded (Ion. κληΐς [ῑ], κληῗδος, κληῗδα, etc. (Hom. uses only the Ion. form):—Dor. κλᾱΐς, κλαΐδος [ῐ] Simon.23)

Hi there,
 
Welcome to my building log. Resumed the building this year and wanted to share some of learnings. More pictures than words:) This is my first build and i have obtained plenty of useful information from this forum. 
 
1. Align frames straight and sand them properly and smoothly which will make much easier for planking
2. Use the first layer of planking as practice. Measure the gap and do some math. In short, the middle is much wider than the front and end. There are several videos in YouTube that i found helpful for planking. i would suggest to finish one plank in the center and start from the bottom
3. Mark the position of the gunport. Cut the gunport after the first layer of planking is completed (this is different from the manual)
4. Spend more time on the second layer of planking and try to avoid small gaps between planks. if you do have gaps you can use wood fill or scratch wood to fill it in
5. Buy different grades of sand papers, sand blocks, pins, clamps, super glue gel (better than liquid), knife blades, stains, etc.
 
It may take a bit longer for the next update.
 
Cheers,
 
F
 

Todays pic. 
On the Banks after Cod.
w/c 19” x 11”

Last pictures to see the overall views....
 


 
Next step the oars!!!!.....

Good afternoon everyone 
 
day 22 hawse timbers fitted
 
thank you for comments and likes
 
i would like to think im getting better at the wooden kit building, or the quality of the kit is, lol must be the latter 
 
thats the hawse timbers in, although i needed to remove a bit of wood

Finished the bowsprit (see pics), which is really interesting with the small mast & shrouds at the end.  
 
I was looking at this and thinking about the spritsail, which on the real ship must have put a lot of torque on the sprit in high winds.  Looking at the rigging plans, I don't see a lot of side bracing, but I may not be looking closely enough.
 
Regards,
David

I've visited the Victory twice - once in 1973 and once in 2009. I missed the Warrior - we had a choice and decided on the "harbour cruise" - a mistake in retrospect. And the Mary Rose had just been locked away while they built a new building to display her in. But they compensated by displaying an enormous number of artefacts found on board, so we didn't miss out completely.
 
The redback is pretty much equivalent to the black widow - apparently a variant of the same species. The red mark varies from individual to individual - sometimes it's not very obvious.
 

 
They're pretty tiny - about the size of the pic above. We see them a fair bit. They like to hide in dark crannies - there's an old song  called Redback on the Toilet Seat. I had a mate who woke up with redback bites all over his stomach (it'd been in his bed and must have panicked). He got sick but survived ok. But apparently you can die from anaphylaxis - the poison is more powerful than that of the funnelweb, but doesn't act as fast - 15 minutes for a funnelweb. Then there's the white-tip, whose bite makes your flesh rot, though recent information suggests that's not true after all . . .
 
You sure you want to come here? 

Slow and steady progress on the hull over the past week and a half, but tonight I glued in the last two planks of the first layer. I've done a bit of sanding, but have a ways to go to smooth everything out. I'm mostly satisfied with the work I've done, though I would hardly call it perfect. The bow still has a bit of a clinker effect that I'm hoping I can sand down. The stern hasn't been sanded or cleaned up at all yet, so it still looks a bit raggedy where I trimmed the planks. The planks between the maximum curve and keel amidships have some gaps that I've filled with PVA glue and sawdust (not clearly visible in the photos).
 
I also built a slip for the boat to sit in while I work on it. The kit provides a 6x6x500 piece of limewood for just this purpose. After cutting it in half, I attached the two pieces to a random piece of 3/4"x2" that I had sitting around from another project. 
 
Next steps: I've trimmed the tops of the bulwark frames from the main deck and so need to finish planking it. Then I'll plank the sides of the parapet and add deck planking to the fore- and aft-decks. 
 
Photos are a full shot from the starboard side, then three details of stern, midship, and bow. Finally, two shots from straight ahead and straight behind.
 

ML and Corvette stand by a surrendering U boat off the Canadian Atlantic coast w/c 16.5” X 11.75

Hugging Truss!!!!!!

15 m of thread 0.15 mm diameter. Stressed and organized
 



 
Fixed and tied...
 

 

As Craig has shown, There is no river Hulk for it to have a mouth. Mouth comes from the anglo-saxon mūða which does mean mouth as in outlet of  cf. Portesmūða meaning mouth of the portus. Hence my contention that os hulci means outlet or port for hulks. I think that whichever bored monk was given the job of coming up with a logo for Shoreham had a mean sense of humour which could only be satisfied by punning. The misspelling of singno and dingno is probably due to a dingbat of a carver who couldnt carve letters backwards or had too much mead for breakfast.
I'm going away to lie down for a while.😕
Dick

I appreciate the compliment, Mark!
 
Well, with the harps made, the windows are now complete, and I’m about 60% of the way, done, with the amortisement.
 
Final assembly will take some finessing, but here is what we have so far:

Next up, I will tackle the semi-structural elements above the windows.
 
Thanks for the likes and for looking in!

Capture and sinking of U744 LtoR HMCS StCatherines  HMS Icarus  U477  HMCS Chilliwack 
watercolour 16.5“ X 11.75”

Hello everybody.
I am kinda new here. I mean i have kept an eye on basically every ship build here.
And now i thought its time for me to post my build! 
This isn´t my first build (first was La Couronne - because of the price tag :D),
but this one i want to make as original as possible (for the real thing).
As I said my goal is to make this ship as it is right now..not what it was.
But will see through the process. Maybe some colors here and there- will see! 
 
And little bit of the backstory as well.
Like my name says i am from Estonia. I have liked those old ships from the very beginning.
Saw the first one..an boom liked it and it stay´d this way. And i remember when i was young 
i always wondered how the hell people build these... because my ships what i build these days
was basically just arrow shaped wood blanks with sails But now when we have internet and computers
i have searched here and there..i found these kits and everything. and then i stumbled 
upon this forum. and only thought what i had in my mind was: Dear diary- JACKPOT! 
i have learned so much from you guys. And now i want to put all this knowledge to work!
And bit what i have done so far (almost a year of building).
 
I really don´t like these plastic figurines..so i made them all out of wood
so they look authentic! And i painted the ship dark brown... well the color dark brown was on the canister 
lid but the ship came out pretty black but i don´t mind!
and there are some pictures of the progress so far! And now when the winter is coming and the nasty Covid-19 raising his 
head it time to start building again! 
Martin.

Final sail is ready.  Now to finish the deck furnishings (finally decided to make my own blocks for the carronade and main boom horse/traveler).  Then it's time to set the deadeyes and shrouds.
 

Thanks for the replies.
With respect to figures - I have been investigating several online figure creators that allow you to download an .stl file for 3D printing. Most of these are geared toward fantasy and model railroad figures and kind of miss out on 18th and early 19th century maritime figures that I'm interested in.  I managed to make a "navy-like" officer in Hero Forge (heroforge.com).  The process is fairly straight forward - you  pick and choose pre-made bodies, parts, clothes, poses to assemble a figure.  You can customise the pose and, when you're ready, you pay $7.99 (US) to download the .stl file.  You can actually have them print the figure for you for $19.99.  They state it is roughly 1:48 scale. (25mm or 30mm). 

 
I bought the download (emailed to me in maybe 30 minutes) and opened it in ChituBox software (free) in order to create a file for my Elegoo Mars resin printer.  i added supports (easy) to make sure that the model prints correctly.

There are many types and colours of resins you can use for the printing. I purchased a standard grey UV-sensitive resin which must be cleaned in 100% ethanol/isopropanol and, since my workshop is next to my furnace, I quickly purchased a water-washable resin.  (Winter is coming and I don't want to wash parts in 100% alcohol outdoors when it's -25C!)  Here are the results using the two resins:

Back to the ChituBox software to scale that figure to 1/92.  I'll print that size shortly and get back to you folks.

Clear skies!
Gabe
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Its good to be back and modeling, I'm continuing my Hannah build after being shelved for 5 years.

I think I will try the paper shields! What would you suggest for the boss?
 
Anyways, made some actual progress today! These are just smartphone captures so not the highest quality. Went black and red - think it came out nice!
 

20200915
Yesterday evening I finished the rudder.  I decided not to stain or paint it but to leave it the natural wood color.  To lash it to the sternpost, before gluing the rudder to the post, I drilled 5 x 0.8mm holes just off the edge of the post.  After the glue dried I used a small sewing needle to pass the smallest diameter thread that came with the kit through each hole so that I ended up with 4 loops around the post.  I pulled the thread tight and then glued the thread close to the post on both sides of the rudder letting a bit of glue fill-in each hole.  I held the threads taut with some clamps and once it had set trimmed the ends close to the rudder. A drop more glue and the ends of the threads disappeared.  Most of the stern post is hidden by what I’m calling bulkhead 0 (the instructions call it frame 0) so not using any paint on the sternpost allows it to move in the grooves filed in the stern-most part of the keel and bulkhead 0.  I decided to use the lighter of the two colors of 1mm x 2mm wood strips to finish framing the rudder.  This morning, after letting all the glue dry overnight, I sprayed a light coat of clear acrylic on the rudder, lashings and lower portion of the post.  I’ll give it one more coat this evening after a light sanding.
 
Having time this morning before I had to be in the office, I glued the false decks in place.  The false decks needed a bit of minor work (dry fitting, sanding, nibbling, and repeat as needed) to get them to fit right.  No major issues here.  The aft (upper) false deck overhangs the stern just enough to cover bulkhead 0 when that is installed later today. 
 
Will start thinking about the hull planking after I get the rudder and bulkhead 0 installed.

Bulwark and hull painted.
I know that line is not that smooth that I wanted but I'm satisfied with it.
I'm gonna keep it this way.
 
 
Sjors
 
 

Hello and thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20200911
Yesterday went to visit the local hobby shop without any clear intention to purchase a new kit but if I saw one I just couldn’t pass up…
Came away with the Amati Chinese Pirate Junk.  POB so my first planking kit. 
Opened the box when I got home, perused the drawings and instructions, boxed everything back up for the evening and started doing some research.  1st impression was that Amati’s instructions, while clearly written, are a bit sparser than the ones that came with my first build (Corel Line’s Mayflower) and the drawings are also a bit sparser.  Second impression was that this should be an interesting build.  And then the old saw – take your time.
 
20200912
Too nice a day to spend inside today so not much accomplished.  Have the keel piece and bulkheads cutout and the first 2 bulkheads mounted to the keel.  Enough for today.

HMCS Rockcliffe on escort duty in the North Atlantic.
w/c 16.5” X 11.75”

Dusk, WW2 heading out into the Channel.Polish MGB's Sally Forth looking for trouble. 
w/c 16" X 11"
Jim

The wooldings for the after mast wedges in progress, and complete:
 
           
 
 
 
Foremast - as mentioned above the halyard knight needed to be moved aft so the mast didn't foul its operation. Here is the deck with the knight removed, then with the slot in the deck extended aft and a new length of plank inserted to close up the gap, all the way to the mast. Then I trimmed the gap so the tenon of the knight fitted exactly into it and relocated the knight to allow enough room for its lanyards to run freely. 
 
                  
 
I started making the lateen sails. As they are going to be furled I made them narrower than full size so they wouldn't be too bulky when furled. Unfortunately the first method I used didn't work - I cut the fabric out, then taped it down and glued the bolt rope to the top of the sail (the bit that goes against the yard). But as the fabric  was cut on the bias - i.e. at 45 degrees to the weave - the sails mutated. You can see below that the straight line I'd cut along the horizontal had stretched downward, pulling the ends inward - I trimmed the cloth against the bolt rope, but when I measured the sails against the yards they were quite a bit too short.
 
        
 
       
  
So I started again. This time I didn't cut the fabric until the bolt ropes were glued in place, which kept it from deforming.
 
  
 
And when the glue was dry I cut the sails out. Now, because I'd allowed extra fabric in case they shrank the sails were too long, so I cut them to length and everything worked very nicely. Now I'm in the process of fixing the first sail to the yard with robands - a lot more fiddly and difficult than I'd expected - and very frustrating; I have great difficulty tying a reef knot in cotton thread - fingers too clumsy, tweezers keep on slipping at the last moment - I've finally taken to tying a thumb knot and adding a dab of glue, allowing it to dry and coming back to finish the knot. Very time consuming.
 
I took the third photo from a funny angle, so it looks like the sail starts a fair way down the yard. In fact it comes all the way up to the blocks - the end part is just flipped on its edge so you can't see it.
 
 
         
 
 
While I'm waiting for the glue to dry I've been getting the halyards themselves sorted out and attached to the yards:
 
 
 
 

 
That's all for now. More to follow as I get more done.