BLACK VIKING

The exercise the last couple of days is finishing up the bowsprit area, while not quite there yet I did manage to complete about 90% of the needed work. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with result.
Michael D.

This is a placeholder post of sorts.  My daughter had taken over my workspace with finals studies, the prior two weeks, so the kitchen table was never free until 10pm.  By that point, I had nothing left in the tank for modeling.  The NBA playoffs were also particularly interesting, this year, so my attentions have been divided for a good long stretch.
 
I did manage to fit and secure the under-framing for the tafferal backboard, but apart from that - not much else has happened on the model itself.  Most of what needs to happen on the model requires my utmost concentration.  Now that the kids are done with school, and we aren’t running around all over the place, I should have deeper reserves in the evening time.
 
I have been chipping away at the tafferal carving, itself, though.  I decided that the best way to go about this was to break the carving up into separate elements, as I had done for the amortisement.  Not only did this make the carving more manageable and replaceable by section, if need be, but it enabled me to more easily glue-up laminations of different thicknesses so that there would be a perceptible foreground and background to the composition.
 
The clouds in the foreground are the thickest stock, the horses of medium stock and the chariot the thinnest stock:


I have completed the clouds, which were further subdivided into port and starboard.  I haven’t taken pictures of them, but they are fluffy, happy clouds that would warm Bob Ross’s heart.
 
What I am working on, now, are the horses.  I began with the port pair, which was the more challenging side to figure out.  My thumb gives a pretty good indication of scale:



I’ve made a start on the starboard pair, which is moving more quickly.  I think the whole ensemble with capture the depth and drama that I am looking for.
 
Thank you for your interest.  More to follow..

The hard edge camo is done. I sprayed the brown violet over the masked dark green areas and got a sharp result. I used a dedicated masking set, made by LF Models. The masks are made from vinyl and It took some effort to lay them down perfectly, to have no color running under it. The manual is a bit vague in places, relatively small and some codes were printed blue on green, hard to read. Definitely an area for improvement. I always remove my masks rapidly after application, before the color is properly hardened through. Luckily on first inspection, I couldn't make out severe mistakes. After proper drying, I will have a closer look.
 

 

 
Cheers Rob

I am getting closer .....mass production of CNC blocks...I apologize for my lack of inventory for so long but we are perfecting the process.  I havent had blocks in stock for months.  It shouldnt be long now.  I want to be able to bring you the best CNC blocks possible at a ridiculously low price.   A lot lower than you might even imagine.   My rope is the cheapest available for the quality and lengths available.   I am hoping to do the same with some superior blocks in Boxwood and Swiss pear.  Automated so I can concentrate on my ship model projects like Speedwell.  I cant tell you how long and hard this R&D process has been.  So many experiments and so many failures.   Successes are few but we learn from every failed batch made.   I wish I could explain what goes into figuring this stuff out.  Lots of time and lots of money.
 
Hot out of the oven before polishing and tumbling.  Sorry for the lack of inventory but it will be so worth the wait it I promise.
 


 

Amazing work Chris.  You've gotten really good at these card models.

First step in making the wings was adding the remaining internal frames.
 

 
Each skin is a single piece, shaped, folded, and glued with the help of a joiner strip.
 

 
Each wing structure is then slipped into its finished sheath. No fillets have been added yet.
 

 
That's it for now.

Wow
Talk about heavy metal
this is really building up now👍🏻

Most of everything thru video 15 completed. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

There we go; these will look better evened out and painted, but will be very functional
I thickened the beam across the two supports with a white styrene piece and it made things less flexy
 

 

 

Thanks very much! Here is where it is so far, in between working on a big patio project.

 
I drew a pattern on to a piece of the pear, and have hacked away at it with a jewelers saw. Next I wonder if I should go at it with a dremel, which I already have, or spring for a decent carving tool like a Flexcut 1.5 mm blade? Maybe both?!
 
Thanks again.
 

Minor update but a massive milestone. 
 
Indy's masts are now complete except for a few small details like eyelets. Of course, I'll need to use some ochre and black paint on these before fitting to the hull. Eyeing up the alignment shows that NOTHING needs to be adjusted whatsoever, which pleases me totally! Even the bowsprit slots neatly into the bow and locks into the support post on the deck below. 
 
These masts are LARGE, well, certainly to me as I've never brought a model this size towards completion. After Grecian, this seems gigantic. 
 
Anyway, here are the pics.
 
Oh, I'll need a larger white area when it comes to the finals, as you can see here.
 

U-505
 
A slight diversion…
 
I’ve been very interested in a future project to build a submarine kit – specifically WWII era Gato or UBoat of some sort…
 
I recently visited Chicago to attend a nephew’s graduation and was able to check off another bucket list item – visiting U-505 in the Science Museum.
 
It did not disappoint. 

For those not familiar with U 505, she was captured late in the war by a US Navy task force that was specially trained to board a U-boat after forcing it to the surface.  Dan Gallery was in command, and he wrote a very entertaining book about the effort that I read way back in middle school.  
 
The museum does a terrific job of presenting the story of her capture and highlighting the many contributions made by the combined team to pull it off.  However, they do leave out much that is interesting about U-505 and the overall operation that you can dig up with online searches.
 
A previous commander, for example, cracked under the tension of an extended depth charge barrage and pulled out a pistol and killed himself in front of the crew.
 
U-505 survived a low-level bombing and sailed across the Atlantic entirely on the surface and was probably the most damaged German submarine ever to return to port.
 
Most of the internal spaces had been gutted before the boat reached Chicago.  German companies donated most of the gauges, harnesses, etc., needed to restore the interior.

Dan Gallery himself was nearly court-martialed by Fleet Admiral Ernest King for his efforts.  King was angry that the sub was not scuttled after removing everything valuable. The key goal of the project was to capture the critical naval codes and Enigma equipment (along with useful manuals about torpedo technology, etc.) before the boat could sink.  An enterprising sailor managed to put the lid back on the main scuttle to prevent further flooding and the German crew otherwise neglected to arm explosive charges when they abandoned ship.  

The captured submarine was a dangerous liability… If another U-Boat spotted her being towed to a friendly port the jig would be up and the German navy may well have revamped all their codes and reconfigured the Enigmas – ruining a key advantage that the allies already had in place at that period of the war. 
 
Gallery managed to calm Admiral King down and issued a proclamation to his task force reminding them all to keep quiet or suffer severe consequences.  The captured U-Boat crew was sequestered and denied communication back to their homeland in violation of the Geneva convention.

Be sure to plan to visit this incredible artifact if you’re ever near Chicago.

 
Cheers,
Evan
 

It is good to see you back on this Dio OC! 
The teasers of what is to come promise a spectacular vision.

And the  last  ones I re edited.....
 
OC.

And more.......
 
OC.

Morning all,    In  anticipation  of me  continuing  with  my  build,  I decided  to put  my whole  Waterloo  folder  through  my  Lightroom  editing  software  to  try to improve  some  of the  pics.
 
They  are in no particular  order  and there  is  loads  of them  -  hope  you  don't  mind.
Please pick refreshments  of your  choice  while  looking......
 
OC.

A little bit completed everyday. Super glue and some kick it to make it cute fast seems to work on the metal to wood bond. 
 

 

 

 

 
 

Bowsprit and Lower foremast are cemented in. I did a metal rod in Bowsprit and pinned it to the foremast so things won't move
 

 
The two mast locked together

 
The anchor line is in and test fitting the railing  up front

Then I added the Gammon rope to the Bowsprit. A bit fiddly and not perfect but it will work

 

Thank you, Nils, and Kevin, and for the ‘likes’.
 
Post Thirty- six
The Black Strake
My plan is to fit the wales, followed by a drop plank, followed by the Garboard plank, followed by lining off and planking the remainder of the hull.
If only it was as simple as those few words.
 
The first task is to fit the Black strake which will fix the line of the wales.
For this I am using 0.8mm x 4mm Pear.

1061
The kit indicates use of 1mm pear, but I used 0.8mm as I think it better reflects the subtle difference in thickness between the wales and topside planking.

1059
I used Vallejo black to colour the strake before fitting but may tone it down using Black/grey, depending on the overall effect.

1056
Masking tape was used to mark the upper line, and Ca was used to apply the strakes.

1048
Onto the wales and a somewhat trickier operation.
 
B.E.
07/06/2023
 
 

The main top gallant yard for the most part is complete, as you can see, I have setup temporary topsail lifts to facilitate rigging the clews, the top gallant lifts are led to the top mast top and the clews are brought down to the main top, I usually leave the lines slightly weighted for a day or so to hold their shape before tying them off. Up next is the top sail yard. As always thanks for following along.
 
Michael D.

Very Nice!
I like the idea of weighing the lines for a day or so. I have to do that more often on my builds!
Frank
 

I think I'm ready to install the two masts on my 1805 Swift but I'm terrified I've forgotten something before I do.  This is my first timber ship and I am spending all my time on the ship trying for figure out why I shouldn't glue the masts on yet.  Please someone calm my nerves and give me a checklist for what to have done, other than the obvious, before I glue the two masts on.  I have attached all the blocks and drilled all the holes into the masts and spars. The bowsprit is already installed as are the guns, hardware (cleats and rings), the anchors and the deck furnishings except the cabins, pumps and fiddly details.  What am I overlooking? Pictures to come on edit...
 
 

Rather than gluing them in the steps inside the hull set them in place and wedge them where they pass through the deck as was done on the actual ship.  If that is going too far, a dot of glue where they pass through the hole in the deck should be sufficient and it is located where you can unglue it with IPA or water if necessary.  The standing rigging should add more security to this little bit of gluing to keep them in place.    
Allan
 
 

79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part  in the largest combat landings ever made.   Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers,  Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
  
 

After a long planking effort it’s finally starting to take shape with details. 
 
Everything has to come together almost perfect for the rear removable section to fit. One picture shows what needs done to fit the top of the removable part. I fiddled with this to get it all to fit glued it together while fitting it so it would fit well. So far so good.