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BLACK VIKING reacted to Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very small update !
Because of the temp.
it's t hot to do anything.
High above the 34 C ( 93.4 F )
I have make the second planking for the upper part.
There must be some sanding,painting and oil for the part that should be not painted.
But first there are other things to do.
Like planking the deck and making the whales.
It can take a while before the next update.
Sjors
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BLACK VIKING reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Mates,
Minor update, continuing work on the quarterdeck falconets; put together the needed block and tackles. Though I fear that the double blocks may be a size too big – not sure.
Ferit, as you can see I added your front framing (thanks for the tip).
Used small basswood strips, added a bit of a curve, painted and attached to carriage sides as axle and wheel supports.
I’ll post next after these two are installed.
Cheers,
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from mtaylor in Pirate Ship by modelshipwright - FINISHED - Pirateology - build with my granddaughter
Great work Isabella looking forward to seeing your next update Arrrr
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from modelshipwright in Pirate Ship by modelshipwright - FINISHED - Pirateology - build with my granddaughter
Great work Isabella looking forward to seeing your next update Arrrr
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from Canute in Pirate Ship by modelshipwright - FINISHED - Pirateology - build with my granddaughter
Great work Isabella looking forward to seeing your next update Arrrr
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Stunning work as always Michael
BV
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BLACK VIKING reacted to modelshipwright in Pirate Ship by modelshipwright - FINISHED - Pirateology - build with my granddaughter
Started this morning and there are very few instructions. It says number the parts and punch them out of the wood sheets. For more excitement, don't number them. If you number them, assemble 1 to 1, A to A etc.
Here I am numbering the parts.
Starting to figure out where everything goes, and gluing some pieces together.
Got my Home Depot apron on so I don't glue myself to the chair.
More to follow................
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from edmay in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Stunning work as always Michael
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Stunning work as always Michael
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from WackoWolf in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Stunning work as always Michael
BV
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BLACK VIKING reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Mates,
Working on those falconets that seem to have also been on the Vasa.
Pic 1 from the 1/10th
Pic 2 are examples from Clayton Johnson’s build of all of the various canons that were cast for the ship. Here is a link to all of his work for the cannons (if you care to look) beautiful work
https://sites.google.com/site/clayton707/1-10-scale-vasa-artillery
Pic 3 falconets seem to have disappeared in more recent photos – hmmm?—
------- Wheels were cut from dowel. I rolled the dowel, not cutting clear through (for obvious reasons) then just sawed the inner bits. The carriages had been built at the same time that I put together the weather deck ones.
Used brass framing to articulate the metal framing for the carriages (simple tools helped) - not sure how to represent their attaching pins? May just let that bit go...
To be updated…..
PS: My big frustration with this ship (and all Vasa kits) has to do with all of the totally incorrect cannons that are supplied. But I understand – there were so many diff. size cannons mounted aboard that it would make this bit of detail cost prohibitive just for the Vasa kit. Let’s see if the DeAgostini 1/65 get’s these right???
Cheers,
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BLACK VIKING reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Edwin, thanks you are so encouraging – as always. Well there have certainly been a lot of helpful posts with us Corel Wasa builders, which may be helpful to you in circumventing some of this kits glaring errors. Thanks for following along always nice hearing from you.
Frank, thanks – I am enjoying following your new project J
Jan V. You have been busy building the longboat nice side project. I will certainly use your ideas when I get there. Thanks for your nice thoughts.
B.E. & EJ_L thanks indeed. It is certainly mutual following along with your projects as well.
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Minor update: Decided on starting to build the two falconets and carriages that are at the quarter deck before moving to the mizzen mast. I’ll post some updates as they move along….
Thanks all for your kind clicks and comments,
Cheers,
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from Piet in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING reacted to Mahuna in Dunbrody by Mahuna - FINISHED - 1:48 - Cross-Section - Irish Famine Ship
Part 36 – Bucket Lavatories Part 2
The Bucket Lavatories are made from a combination of beech and cherry. Because the lavatories were built as temporary fixtures, the plank dimensions were kept to a set of standard sizes that would have been available: 1 x 6, 1 x 8, 2 x 6, and 2 x 8. I thought about using 1 x 4 and 2 x 4, but felt that the very narrow planks would be difficult to manage. The following photo is the drawing for the lavatories.
Most of the planks would be laid vertically, with horizontal planks at the bottom and top to tie all of the planks together. A jig was developed to keep the planks properly aligned vertically, and to ensure proper spacing between the horizontal planks.
In use, the vertical planks were laid into the jig, then glue was applied to the horizontal planks and these planks were laid in place over the vertical planks.
A weight was used instead of clamping.
The following photo shows 3 of the sides after gluing, along with the drawing of the sides.
The corners would be made of two 2 x 6’s, offset to each other, as in the following photo.
A special jig was needed to ensure that the corner posts were straight and the offset was uniform. The jig was made form aluminum so that any excess PVA glue would not adhere to the jig.
Four clamps were used with the jig. The yellow clamps served two purposes: they kept the bottom plank in place, but through sideways pressure they also kept the top plank pressed against the side of the jig to keep it straight. The green clamps applied the downward pressure to adhere the two clamps together.
The following photos depict the corner posts after gluing.
The lavatories consist of two back-to-back units on each side of the main mast (forward and aft), and are made from the following components.
The concept for making the jig shown earlier was carried forward for each type of component.
The following photo shows a completed double lavatory.
The two double lavatories are joined by a planked wall that closes off the main mast (and hides the mast wedges previously worked on!). The following photos show the test fitting of the lavatories and checking their height against the main deck beams.
When it came time to test fit the bucket made in the previous post, it was apparent that that bucket was too large in comparison to the lavatories. So, a new bucket needed to be made – as in the following photo.
The new bucket is significantly smaller.
The doors on the port side are both closed
But the starboard side, which will be seen through the viewing ports, has one door open
The following photos show the lavatories in place, but not glued.
There is just enough room between the lavatories and the sleeping platforms for the lavatory doors to open, but this makes for very tight quarters for the emigrants.
Before gluing the lavatories in place I’ll be working on the mast partners for the main deck, which will be the topic of the next post.
Thanks everyone!
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from edmay in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from Canute in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from Hennie in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Very nicely done Sjors the blue looks stunning in the last picture I wish I had done mine in that colour
BV
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BLACK VIKING reacted to Sjors in HMS Sovereign of the Seas by Sjors - DeAgostini - 1:84
Thanks Pat and Mike.
@ Pat,
I think that you meaning that it is easy to cut out all those gun ports ( 66 ) and place the sills .....
Yep, it worked
On one side the first 33 gun ports are done !
No pictures yet because I want to show you the whole picture of all the gun ports !
@ Mike,
I will come to your log to give you some hints ( I think )
I will place all the gun port lids just open with visible canons.
The only thing that I maybe gonna change is the black colour on top.
I have seen a blue one and I like that very much.
For the rest I will see what 's wil be coming on the way.
Sjors
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BLACK VIKING reacted to Daniel Dusek in Dusek Ship Kits-news+info
Hi Sjors.
Thanks. Of course the kit will contain english manual (unfortunatelly not Dutch ).
Last two days I spend with 3D modeling of archangel Michael figurehead. I will try to print it next week.
Daniel
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BLACK VIKING reacted to Jim Lad in Building Small Scale Ships Boats by Jim Lad - Part 2
For planking these boats I use my favourite Privet, as the planks are under 0.5MM in thickness and have to cope with a fair amount of bending. I know that Privet isn’t available commercially; however any hard, very close grained timber that can take the bending will work.
I usually plank boats like this with the planks a little over scale width. What we want is a good look for the boats as much as strict scale, so the over-width planks work well in this context. The width of each plank is easily decided by measuring around the girth of the proposed boat and dividing by the number of planks you want. In the case of these boats, I opted for a wider sheer strake so that I could fit a rubbing strake, as you’ll see later.
Each plank will need to be shaped to fit and also chamfered along its lower edge and at the ends, if the planks are to fill well.
The garboard strake is obviously the first one to fit. Being the first plank on, it won’t need chamfering along its length, but will need the chamfering at the ends. The chamfering of the ends of the planks helps them to fit neatly into the rebate of the stem and stern post and also helps them to bend into the adjoining planks at the ends. Be careful in cutting the planks to length as they need to be a really good fit in the bow and stern rebates.
The garboard strake can be made from a straight piece of timber, but it will need some pretty extreme bending at both ends, as can be seen in the photos. I find that the garboard is usually the only strake that needs to be steamed or boiled to allow the extreme bend to be put into it.
Also, before fitting each plank, draw an overlap line along it. You can’t see inside the boat to judge the amount of overlap on the planks, so a line drawn on the previous plank will help to position them correctly.
Once the plank is bent to shape, put a dab of glue on each frame plus along the edge of the plank and at the extreme ends and hold it carefully in place until the glue sets. I find it helpful to glue only half of each plank on at a time. It takes longer, but it helps to position the planks accurately.
Work back and forth on each side of the boat planking both sides evenly. After the garboard strake, each strake will probably need to be cut to a curve to fit easily – you don’t want to force the planks into position. On the boats for the Herzogin Cecilie, I found that the planks needs a curve cut into them of from one to three MM as the planking progressively went up the hull. In the case of these boats, there was no ‘reverse curve’ in the planks at the turn of the bilge, which can usually be expected in clinker boats.
Remember to chamfer off the bottom edge of each plank to give a good tight fit against the preceding plank and, naturally, don’t rush – a clinker boat will only look right if the planking is even along the length of the boat on both sides.
Don’t worry too much about excess glue getting on the planks – they can easily be cleaned up later with a fine file, so long as you’re using a good, fine grained wood. Here is one of the lifeboats with the planking completed, but showing it ‘warts and all’ before clean-up.
And this is what it looks like after just a quick, rough clean.
With the boat still on the plug (for rigidity), clean up the planks, keel, stem and stern posts and file them down to their correct thickness. Also at this time fit any outboard features such as a rubbing strake. On these boats, the rubbing strake (not present on the launch) helped to strengthen the bare hull, which is a little fragile.
Once the external work on the hull is complete, the boat can be removed from the plug. Simply cut through the frames at the top of the planking; cut through the stem and stern posts just above where their final height above the gunwale will be and then down between the posts and the plug (to free the glue) and the boat should simply pop off its plug.
Here is a work boat with the planking completed and ready to come off the plug, with the second one just freed from the plug. You can see the film still in the boat that’s just been freed. This film will just pull out of the boat, except for any spots where glue has leaked through, in which case a clean-up with a sharp blade will soon fix it.
Once the boat is off the plug, the internal finish will vary greatly depending on the type of boat. These boats were fitted with floor boards and thwarts together with side benches for the lifeboats. Remember to paint as you go, as some internal parts will be impossible to reach once they’re fitted out. In the case of these boats, I painted the inside of the hull before the floorboards were fitted so that they would be white beneath the flooring.
Another trick (not photographed) is to make the thwarts slightly thicker than scale and then chamfer any visible edges to make them appear to be scale thickness. This will give a little more strength to the thwarts, which need to be solid enough to keep the sides of the boat in shape, as double ended boats tend to try and collapse towards the centreline.
Another point to make life a little easier is to fit way oversize pieces as the gunwale capping, not worrying about anything but having them cover the top of the gunwale and frames and fit together neatly. Once thy have been glued down they can easily be trimmed back to their correct size – much easier than trying to cut and fit small curved pieces of the correct width in the first place.
Finally, with the other three boats having been delivered, here are the launch and the work boats complete and ready for delivery to the model of the barque. I had held back the launch as we’re showing the barque as she was when she was just departing from Port Lincoln, South Australia, on her last voyage in 1936 and the launch will be depicted as having just been stowed on the forward skids and still with the little outboard motor attached.
By the way – a note on the grab lines around the lifeboats and work boats. This scale is really too small to show the tiny ringbolts used on the full sized boats for becketing these lines, so what I do is to drill a series of small holes along the side of the boat under the rubbing strake and simply glue bights of the line into them.
John
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BLACK VIKING reacted to MarisStella.hr in News and Info from MarisStella Ship Model Kits
The Brazzera, the temptress of Croatian coast, unfortunately is built no more… Her place took ships with the modern lines and engines…
Don, this one is replica built specially for the tourists and, as I can see, is not typical one, she is not completed. There are some differences built in and the way of building the hull is not old fashion way. But still, this is a good picture of her…
The photos above are showing her exactly as she was... This is Brazzera...
Here were two types of her : Brazzera with lateen sail and Brazzera with a Lug sail , that is much more present (many people never heard of some other type of her)...
These colored pictures will say much more than me (with my English which I do not speak well ...)
So, this lady, with two faces defied the time for centuries :
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BLACK VIKING got a reaction from baskerbosse in Vasa 1627 by baskerbosse - Scale 1/75 - ex Corel now scratch using museum plans
Lovely work on the hull Peter . I have this kit on order but certainly didn't realise how far off the bulkheads are as Corel are meant to have used the plans from the Vasa museum? Will be following your build
BV