BLACK VIKING

I was on line with idle hands not really needing anything, but wanting everything I didn't need and came across the Worx WX106L 8v rotary tool. It was offered for $29.00 with free shipping, I had to do a double take. Usually cordless rotary tools run close to $100.00, especially Dremel. I currently own several Worx tools and really like them: 20V weed eater, blower, 20v nail gun (just finished building a fence around my back yard with it, awsome tool) and a power share Makerx rotary tool using the 20v batteries, it's not truely a cordless rotary tool like the WX106L. Needless to say I bought one of the WX106L rotary tools and did the old walk of shame thing since I already owner 3 or 4 rotary tools not quite sure how many at the moment, but I;m sure my wife will point it out to me sooner or later.     
Now I owned several of the old Dremel 7.2v nicd/nimh cordless rotary tools and loved them, especially the fact that they had a removeable battery for charging and coulod be replaced when the battery got to weak. But they no longer make that model.
 
The WX106L has a built in lithium battery and came with half a charge, which is normal. It came in a nice plastic storage box, with several different bits, sanding drums, wire wheel and a USB cable for charging the rotary tool. You either plug it in to a computer or use a wall plug adapter, which I did. This tool has quite a bit of power over the old 7.2 Dremel and is about the same weight. I will put it through it's paces in a few days and report back as to how it performs.   
 
I probably should mention here that the Worx WX106L comes with a 3 year warranty, for a cordless rotary tool, that's pretty darn good. And from what I know of Worx, they stand behind their products. 
 
Update: I have put about 90 minutes of use on the Worx WX106L from using the cut off wheel, mini saw blade, sanding drum, grinding wheel and found that there is plenty of power to do most any job that a corded rotary tool can do. It's still on the initial charge! I have to find something I don't like about the tool, so not to really nit pick here, I don't care for the on and off button, which is flush mounted to the body of the rotary tool, which means when using the tool, you have to actually look for the on or off button, taking your eyes off of the work area each time. On all my Dremels and even the Sears rotary tools, the on off button was raised making it easier to find by feel.
 
Good points: I love the front mounted lights which helps these old eyes. I really like the soft start of the machine, unlike the hard starts of a Dremel. I also like the holding capacity of the lithium battery. 
 
PS: I thought I would add in here that the USB charging cable may be proprietary and made specifically for the Worx Rotary tool. I have several old cell phone chargers and USB cables and none have the extra wide end.  
 
Overall, I'm very pleased with my purchase and for $29.00, it makes it one of the if not the best purchase of the year for me so far. 

The road wheel/idler/drive sprocket assemblies are fairly complex. This one side took more than a couple of hours to clean up and assemble.

 
Too bad so much of the assemble gets covered with panels and will never be seen. However, s kit like this could make an incredible maintenance diorama.
 

Bowlines,
To the mast top, or not to the mast top...

After a constructive exchange of thoughts with one of our members via PM. It turned out that this method is not feasible.
That's why I did a live test on this model.

To the mast top, comes into contact with the top sail.

To the fore castle, comes into contact with the fore sail.

To the beak head, no problem.

Result.

With the fore mast ready i took some pictures in the garden.
Someone thought he wasn't getting enough attention...

A moment of panic,with me, not with the cat.

And get in the way 😇

Now without a cat



Thanks for following

I am sorry reading that. I have the same issue, I always wear compression socks and take anticoagulants during long haul flights. Unfortunately, sitting long hours in the office and at the hobby desk is not a good thing 😒. I try to make breaks and take my dog for long walks almost every day. I am not modeling these days, my models languish on the desk, but I prefer to walk in the sun, when I can.
Take care,
Dan

hello Sam!  so good to see you!  you caught me in the middle of one of my tangents..........   the instrument panel is a decal.......I sanded the molded detail off the part to get it to lay better on it.
 
...as for the procedure.....  bit of a circulation issue......the valves that line the veins that run up my legs are not as good as they used to be.  these valves hold back the blood as the heart pumps fresh blood to the legs and feet,  and keeps the blood from running back down between beats.  the result is pooling in the feet {mainly,  my left leg} and causes the feet to swell....it also developed what could be described as a lesion on the side of my heel.  in the legs,  there are three major veins.....the procedure shuts off one of the veins to lessen the amount of blood.  the way the doc explained it is weird........I think that if one vein is shut off,  that would increase the workload on the remaining veins.  the obvious thing here is that the veins return the blood......arteries are the ones that supply the blood.  I would think it more logical to shut one of those off.  but hey.......that's why my insurance pays them the big bucks     

Things have seemingly gone awry. Despite my best efforts at keeping the planks from curving up at the stem, it seems that is where it is going. I am trying to cut a curved plank out of sheet basswood because no amount of bending seems to be enough to fit to the bulwarks. I used some tape to get the curve and then traced it onto the sheet and, using a sharp knife, cut it out and sanded to size.
 

 

 

 
While that worked to get the curve, I am still thinking that the planks are curving up too much at the stem. You can seem from the “tick” marks, that they are all converging at the same point - like a starburst. I tried to figure out how to put drop planks in but, again, from my untrained eye, it seems that the drop plank won’t be longer than the first bulwark before it will be at full width, allowing me to put two half-width planks in. I thought that laying out the planks so that they lay flush on the bulwarks would keep me out of trouble but it seems that it just resulted in the convergence that I am dealing with now. Something happened early on that I now need to correct.
I feel that, somehow, the planks at the stem need to be wider. They can’t stay at the half-width they are now at. So I need to put a full width plank in, let it lay naturally on the bulwarks and fit in a drop plank or two further on towards the stern. This may not be realistic but, as I keep reminding myself, this will get painted anyway.
 
Here is what the bow currently looks like….
 

 

 
Thanks for looking.
Cheers,
Dave

Frist Stays:
 
Finally finished the second side of deadeyes and chainplates, probably my least favorite part of the build so far but at least now I'm ready to get into the rigging in earnest. After looking at lots of build logs and finished ships I wanted to serve the stays and shrouds, I just really like the look once they're served and it can be done with a hand machine so I got the Syren Serv-o-Matic and started practicing. I had some initial issues with fuzz on the practice bits I did and posted on the Masting, Rigging and Sails section, thread here: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32544-thread-for-serving-rigging/ and by ordering a different thread, Guntermann Mara, and using a candle to melt off the fuzz I was able to get really good results so I've gone ahead and served by first two stays. One of the ideas in the discussion on serving thread was to use a very dark brown instead of black and I ordered both so I could try them and see which one looked best and I've decided to go with the dark brown on the San Felipe. Very happy with the way the serving looks and glad I decided to do that. Now just a zillion shrouds to serve.
 
I'm looking at constructing as much of the masts and yards as I can off the ship and then adding them as the rigging goes in place, this is a little different than how I constructed my Revenge and I'll see how it goes. It seems like the order here is about what works for me and I just have to try some slightly different things to know how they work for me. I'm also trying not to permanently tie anything off and leave some spare hanging so I can go back and adjust as things move slightly. I'm a bit afraid that things will get really untidy and it will be hard to determine which piece of thread comes from where as the number of loose threads build up but we'll see and if I need to I can go back and finish off areas where any movement should be over.
 
Foremast shrouds are next.

Thanks Jav!!!
 
This afternoon, the sun came out.... So I took the wing out to back porch to get some natural sunlight shots to confirm what I think I have...
 
Direct reflection...

Now she should start turning bluish silver as the aspect changes....


I think I've found the secret to doing this finish.... That is perfect coloration which changes as the light conditions and angle changes....
 
YAY TEAM!!!!
 
When I do the fuselage I will spell out the steps to getting this effect...
 
It looks even more stunning in real life.... Looks real...
 
I'm pleased with it....

Second RnB coat applied to the upper wing surfaces....

Looks good from here, consistent aluminum sheen with slightly darker splotches in streaks, I can't wait to get this out in some real sunshine...
 
With high flash to show the reflectivity....

The slightly darker streaks wash out in heavy light... It literally glows!!!  Yea Team! that is exactly the effect I was looking for....
 
Real sunlight will tell the tale.... Got to get the second coat on the bottom and then on to the fuselage and empennages....
 
I think it's going to turn out nice..

Steam Trawler 'Huddersfield Town' off the Faroe Islands w/c 16” X 11”

Thanks Dennis, I'm getting ready to silver her up....
Thank you and everyone for the good wishes... I just finished the dual scope procedure today, Doc said no cancer, top or bottom, didn't know what the mass was they found but it isn't stomach or colon cancer... He's ruminating on Diverticulitis, a huge relief if it is (common ailment for people our age) Will see my attending in a few days, maybe they will have a clue at that point....
 
Thanks all for the well wishes and prayers, My friends... they helped greatly...

Another very tiny detail to add before silvering.... The 6/3 wing root cutout for the Ammo Door/Step...

And yes, the stress ribs were angled like that... ( note; the Hasegawa kit has a more rounded leading edge, I'm going to leave it as the aluminum paint will fill the slight difference) Now to figure out how to drop a short cable off it to hold the removable part...

Tanker
Early RFA Tanker 'Petroleum 
w/c 6" X 4"

thank you all for joining in.  it seems that just playing with the landing gear boots wasn't enough.  once I started to play with it,  I got carried away  
 
so this is a short run kit Ken  there are no date stamps anywhere on the model....nor the instructions or box.  the only date I found was the print date on the decal sheet......2000.  don't think I've ever done a short run model.  I'll try not to let you down   
 
absolutely Egilman.........the resin parts are very detailed.......hard to tell in these pictures I've posted of late.  the lamp on my desk died,  so the admiral went out and bought me this LED lamp.  it's pretty bright and so far the pictures have been decent.  I'll try and get better ones so you can see how nice these parts are.
 
welcome to you Alan and Jack........good to have you folks look'in in  
 
the kit also features an expansive paint by number.........just about everything has a color number associated with it.  as with any kit,  there is the usual flash clean up.......especially where the sprue connects to the part.  it seems to carry onto the mating surfaces.  one thing I forgot to mention was that I had done some clean up to the cockpit floor prior to mess'in with it.  the floor was a bit thick......the underside was very shiny and slightly sunken...likely the 'sunny side up' from being produced.  noting the thickness of the floor in the Revell kit,  I brought the thickness down by rubbing it on a large sheet of sandpaper.  sanding all around the outer edge,  I concentrated on the starboard side aft,  to even the taper to mimic the port side.  the fuselage was taped back together.......it was a tight fit,  but I managed to slide the floor in place.  to make it a better fit a small amount of plastic was removed from the opening below the gunner's compartment,  in contour with the wing root........the underside of the floor {aft}....both edges were rounded to fit in the space better.  the floor comes out now,  like a cartridge.


still a bit blurry {I'll get a good one yet    I have two options here.......I can keep doing it like this and risk breaking something in the future,  but I think I'm going to cement one side of the floor to the inner wall {preferably the starboard side} and save myself some grief.  I may have to shave a bit more here and there.  the pieces of the wings were cemented together,  only using the upper surfaces as a template for the dihedral.  only the three bottom parts were glued together.

any gaps seen on the outer surface were filler with putty and left over night to dry.  I sanded them today.

the chunk off to the right has the front and read radiator detail on it.......it is to be added as a plug.  problem is.....it is too small causing it to be indented to much.  I'm going to cut it and fit the radiator faces in their proper places.

in tinkering with the landing gear boots a bit more........this would be acceptable to me.  I may remove a tiny bit of the axle bumps.......perhaps it will go in a tad deeper.  now to get the other 'shoe on the right foot   

the machine gun is there.........very nice detail.   .....something else I see..............a better shot of the cockpit!

very detailed!  when I have the fuselage split,  perhaps I can show more  
 
 

Steam Trawler Quail w/c 6” X4” Postcard size    

A Thalmian oarsman's view (looking aft) of the 21 seats Ive installed so far on the starboard side of the ship (149 to go...)
 

ha...i'm afraid i just can't do these little things well....i guess that's why i always built big 🙂
   as much as i tried, i couldn't get it close to neko's drawing, and fit the parts in the kit..i should have made the lower gun decks higher.......but anyways.....hands getting shaky now and i again consider this a ''close enough for jazz'' build, as i can never compete with the meticulous fellas here....and painting those little reliefs??...yuk....i could never do them justice....but i just do what i can....and i think it gives one a good idea of what a full hull would look like....opposed to the shallow pregnant one in the kit.....
   waiting for more paint to arrive...and cannons are all ready to attach....with squished down carriages 🙃....couldn't get the right spacing between the decks and the gunports.....but again..i think it will look ok in the end........i will attach the cut out reliefs to the inner wall of the stern galleries......cheers...........

Good Morning,
The next order of business for the hull was the addition of the bulwarks, which were planked on the inside prior to installation. Then the waterways and the stanchions.
 
 

I decided to add the grating to the main deck at this point too -


I discovered that the stanchions tend to pop off pretty easily, so I decided to add some wire to secure the ones that will support the pin rails and kevels. I'll also secure the pin rails and kevels to the stanchions with wire when I get to that point. I'll do that before moving on to the planking of the upper hull.
 


That's all for now, many thanks for checking in.
 
David

Also no parachute, no armor, no self-sealing fuel tank -- basically flying around in a tinder box made of doped fabric and twigs. Anyways, last pic for today -- finished windscreen.
 

Evening all,  more work today  - I have started on a Luneburg regiment  Corporal  including his bright Sky Blue trousers  (interesting colour  but supposed to be accurate)
 
OC.

More decisions  - I am going to lighten his trousers  make them more of a light Grey/Blue.
 
OC.

What has become of our generation!
Today it's covid, drugs and no rock'n roll.


Get well soon!

 
Peter

Damn, what a week!
 
Had a great day last Monday, working away and even working out in the gym. Tuesday, came down with Covid (had to be, as the only other times I experienced the same symptoms was immediately after having my Covid vax jabs)
 
So, I have been out of it the past week. I could not do anything except lie down and take anti-inflammatories and pain killers, feeling completely helpless, and lazy! My wife seems to have overcome it a lot quicker than me, with my throat hurting so much, with even a small cough feeling like 1000 glass shards in my throat - not my best week!
 
However, I am now over the worst (that or I have been popping too many drugs...), so will try to get back into it next week, as I have now lost a whole week to this....

Thanks Javlin and thanks for the 'like's. Small bit and pieces take very long, hence, just small progress at the time. Added black smoke puffs of the starter exhaust on the belly and LG pieces now permanently mounted:

Main LG:

Nose wheel:


Back to tanks and missiles. 
Kind regards,
Dan
 
 

Side and bottom skins done.
 

 
And just for fun, here's a little size comparison. Yes, these are in the same scale. 😆