BLACK VIKING

Thanks Keith,
Thanks Gary!
 
Well I'm nearly ready to post some pics of the completed sections as I do them... just finishing bulk production of rigging fixtures, and working through a long list of snags. Shouldn't be long now.
 
As I was painting the turnbuckles (btw thanks to Tom Lauria for his excellent tutorial on  making these), I thought the gig we fly tyers use might be of interest. We use these when varnishing the heads of trout flies.

 
Just search for 'spring loaded fly -tying clips' on e-bay or similar if you want to make one. They are very handy.
 
Back to the U bolt and D bolt production lines...
 

 

 
 
 
 

Thanks for all the thumbs up friends, and your patience. It's been very busy in the props department... and just about everything made now, and beginning to put it all together. These last few items are very time consuming, a bit like building a house, the last bit takes the longest.
 
I'll be posting the finished areas one by one over the next few days, but here's a hint of some of the work in progress....
 
Prop and rudder..

 
Shark cage...

 

 
Fighting chair installed with the big Fenwick 670 130lb shark rod, and the huge Penn Senator 16-0 reel. Must have weighed a ton. There is one on e-bay now, starting price £740 ($1000). These reels hold 1000 yards of 130 lb line. The rods, when they come up for sale, go for even more. The Jaws shark was 25 ft, 3 tons or 6000lbs in weight. It would have wrecked even this heavyweight tackle in seconds. This picture shows the shark in scale to the boat.

 

 
The Penn reel spool was loaded with 30 denier spider thread (said to be the thinnest fly-tying thread made). It is roughly equivalent in diameter to the 130 lb main line on the big Penn reel. I got 50 yards spooled up which at 1:20 is 1000 yards; spot on! That fish would have snapped this like cotton.
 

 
Quick check that it will take the strain...

 
Yep, that should do it...
Finished rod.


 
..and a few more getting their roller rings for the rack behind the door...
 

 
Shackles for the rigging. My eyes are still not recovered from this session!

 
Also lots of tiny details for completeness, like the inclinometer in the cabin...

 
More to follow soon.
 

Quick shot of the finished windscreens.
 

More work on the crewmen. Here's more progress on the second windlass-man. Note he's wearing a "hoodie".

 
 

 
    
 

 

 

 
And beginning the first crewman hauling in the anchor. (I'm using the windlass man as a handle to hold the anchorman as I work on him. When both are complete I'll separate them.)
 
    
 

 
     
 
 
Steven

The fleet leaving Eyemouth
w/c 16" X 11" 

St Abbs with Fishers! w/c 16.5” X 11.75”

British Pacific Fleet. Battleship HMS Howe, Carrier HMS Illustrious with escorts w/c 16.5” X 11.75

North Link Ferry 'Hrossey' passing The Old Man of Hoy. We sailed to and returned from Shetland aboard this ship a few weeks ago. W/C 16.5” X 11..74”
 

Evening all,   right  the decaling is finished  ok its silvered a wee bit  going ontop of a flat surface, but a  few flat coats sprayed over should hide that and kill the shine from the decs,   the rear  walkway  ones   got several coats  of micro sol  and settled down quite nice,   so next job after  letting the decals  adhere  is to spray the flat coats on.
 
OC.

The little one is Saucy Jack, a Barking Well Smack, 1836. This will be the next release, probably the tail end of January. I have already done all plans, and the photo etched sheets will be produced in the next couple of weeks.
 
The larger one is Ranger, a Barking fish carrier, 1864, and designed to be as fast as possible to get the fish to market once picked up from the fishing fleets. I may wait a while to release this, don't know yet - but I do know the development for the next big kit release will take most of  2022. With that in mind, I may save Ranger for April/May.

Of course!
 
In the meantime, I am working on my next little kit (or maybe 2, don't know yet, may save one for later...)
 
I have attached a couple of pics of the pre-prototype builds. I show them so you can see the amount I take off when sanding the bulkheads (both just took me just a little over 30 minutes with an improvised sanding stick). I notice on some build logs that some leave way too much un sanded/unbevelled bulkhead edges at the bow and (especially) at the stern, and then wonder why certain parts do not fit as well as they should, almost as if they are too afraid of sanding too much off.
 
If you use a long-ish sanding stick (in my case, just a scrap length of 0.8mm ply with sandpaper wrapped around it), there is little chance of digging into any one bulkhead, as you are sanding across 3, 4 or 5 at a time. I usually sand the whole lot for these small hulls, but for much larger ones, I just make sure bow and stern are properly sanded to follow the run of the planks, with much lighter sanding at the middle section of the hull.

Good afternoon everyone
 
i continue to try  and bring my airbrushing skill upto at least a sub standard, how ever i am wuite happy with the way things are going, even if it goes into the bin at the end of this i will have learned something
 
 

I've been a busy little bee over the last couple of weeks and have been able to devote quite a bit of my evening time to planking.  I've learned a lot while doing it.  The treasure trove of information on how to plank here helped in the theoretical sense, and as time went on I got a better grasp on just what people were talking about.  The side of me that takes pride in my work to the point of completely scrapping something to redo it is struggling with the practical side of me that knows I can't mill more wood down with the tools that I have on-hand to replace what was used in this learning process.  I know the simple solution is to just get said tools, but my wife's family has 1 absolute rule during the holiday season.... Under no circumstances are we to buy something for ourselves that wasn't a "pre-planned/budgeted purchase" from October 1st through to December 25th... so I'll just take what I've learned into my next build when I start on it after this Mayflower is finished (or when I get to rigging and need a break from small knots).
 
For now though... the main hull is planked!  I've marked where I added the proper gun port framing behind the planks so they can be cut out.  I used a combination of a small clothes iron for putting the edge bending into the planks, and followed them up with my aeropiccola being held in my vise to allow both hands to manipulate the planks I was spot bending.  I tried using the little clamp guide that came with my aeropiccola, but ended up running into more trouble with it than I felt it was worth.  Some planks would be over-bent, some under.  Some I couldn't even get the plank through due to the tension on the springs.  I couldn't use the sharp curve side of the aeropiccola while using the clamp guide because of the spring tension.  To bend twists into the planks, I would just use a set of precision/jewelers pliers to hold the plank if the twist position was too close to the bender.  This week my main goal is to start the sanding/smoothing process for the planks that were stepped early on in my bending experience (before I set the aeropiccola into my vise to use both hands).  If areas are too filled with CA glue, I have acetone on hand to soften the glue up for a more precision gluing.  I also have some putty on hand to close up the gaps that formed here and there.
 
After that, my next step is to figure out how to get this laser cut piece that's supposed to be the rails around the decks and the upper rear portion of the planking bent into shape/place.  I'm still not 100% sure on how I'll manage that one... I might just do some soaking overnight in a container and use my iron to form it into shape on the hull itself.  I'll search other threads that have done the AL Mayflower to see what they've done before I get too set into a process.  I do know that I'm going to first shape the laser cut pieces into place and then do their interior walnut planking after I've marked what areas need to actually get planked rather than planking it first and then shaping after.

With decals and a wash, the office is dry fitted into the fuselage. Nice fit, no problems at all.
Need to add the seat belts before buttoning it up.
 

Hello all,
 
As a break from building my Bounty, I have completed a little project that I've had in mind to do for years.  Have always wanted to build a model of a De Havilland Chipmunk T.10 trainer that I had my first flight in as an Air Cadet at the age of 14!
This year's new 1/48 scale release by Airfix was the excuse I had been waiting for.  A fairly straightforward build, only 'tricky' bit I found was the construction of the canopy, which came in several parts.
The actual aircraft "WG407" is still in existence and I think airworthy,  based in Cambridgeshire; now in private hands.  My little certificate I got for completing my first flight also pictured, my flight took place at RAF Finningley (now Doncaster Airport) with No.9 Air Experience flight based there.

Delightful photos, HH. The model is gorgeous, with the morning light shining off the gilding, the early rays throwing the carved works into high relief....
 
I do sympathise with your personal situation. Many of us have gone through what you are experiencing and know how tough that road is.

From a life standpoint, my sister and I have made tremendous strides in sorting out our father’s affairs, and our current biggest hurdle is getting approval from his long-term care insurer for assisted living.  Steadily, we are getting there, and I appreciate those who have asked, just as I appreciate everyone who comes to visit me here.
 
I have managed to sneak-in a few hours, here and there, and I have completed all of the port side buttressing knees of the channels, and I got everything nicely re-painted and pretty.  In general, lowering the channels pretty dramatically changes the whole aspect of the model, and the difference is pleasing to me:
 

 

 

 
The mizzen channel knees were challenging to cope over mouldings and around the fleurs, but I am happy to have lowered them to here, where there is less interference with the frieze:
 

 
I am using this portrait of the DR, circa 1680, as justification for this placement:
 

 
I continue to comb through the archives, but I have yet to find anything vividly descriptive about the ship’s pre-refit external appearance.  Despite the beautifully florid cursive, I’ve come to realize the hard truth that the letter writers and record keepers of 17th C. France were basically clerks.  Mostly their correspondence has to do with SR’s comings and goings; armaments and dis-armements;  payments made/owed to painters and sculptors; cost estimates relating to her refit, etc.  It is all fascinating, and it will all get its due mention in my book, but it does not help me paint the picture of the ship.
 
Where are the artists sharing their wonderfully descriptive observations, when you need them?!
 
What I’m hoping to find is something along the lines of this:
 

 
”The morning fires shone brightly upon the gilded ornaments of Soleil Royal and her heights rose up and became one with the azure sky.  The warrior of the Americas clung resolutely to the port side, while that of Africa peered off in the middle-distance - daring his lesser adversaries to emerge from the morning mist.  Presiding above, with shimmering rays of gold and silver gilt bursting past his golden chariot is the Sun King, himself…”
 
And, so forth.  It must be out there, somewhere, right?
 
Anyway, I can now get busy with fitting and prepping the starboard upper bulwark for paint.  I can also go ahead and design my stove - that will make a nice little side project.  Before long, I can design and make the next tier of stern lights, which will enable me to finish off the wrapping stern walk.
 
As always, thank you for your likes, comments and for looking-in.  More to come!

Some more progress. First, a shot of the cockpit interior, which will never be this visible again after this.
 

 
Next, the completed fuselage framing.
 

 
And finally, the first exterior skin is applied. See if you can spot the doubled parts.
 

 
Next up will be the upper fuselage skins, which will be quite a bit trickier.
 
Cheers!

Good evening everyone
 
as i mentioned earlier, to proceed with the Bluebell build, i needed to get my airbrushing up to speed, the other day i thought i had made leaps and bounds, today no such luck
eventually i kind of made it work, but after lots of messing about and 3 brush strips
it maybe down to old paint, this primer is over 10 years old, also it could be the AB needles they do look bent, so i took the hit and bought another brush from Amazon, should be here tomorrow, along with new paints and a replacement coolant vent PE set
i did however get some primer of most of the build
 




 





 
 
 

2021 
everything was put away safe, was still a big mess on opening it up today

Greetings all.  Thank you for your comments, visits and likes.
 
A little more progress to show.
 
I added back the arbor press to the diorama and positioned it where the torch cart used to sit. I moved the drill to the front as far as possible to allow for more elbow room around the press.
 

 
 
Moving on, I next populated the mezzanine with stuff. The tires, spoked wheels, fenders and front spring are salvaged from a Jordan model that went all wrong. Everything else is scratched. Corrugated boxes are a quick way to fill up space and are simply folded paper painted with water colors.
 

 
 
I decided the mezzanine needed a hoisting rope. It is a piece of miniature rope that has been bleached and re-colored. The bleach removes that starch/sizing (or what ever it is that makes it stiff) and allows it to coil naturally. It was saturated with a water/PVA mix so it holds its shape and stays where placed. This close-up shows me I placed it crooked and needs a little straightening.
 

 
 
The underside of the pit vehicle gets a downward facing warm white LED. It is attached with a generous blob of clear Gallery Glass. The stuff starts out opaque but dries crystal clear. It is non conductive, comes in different colors (which can be mixed) and dries translucent like stained glass. Handy.
 

 
 
Here is one of the mechanics making an appeal to his Creator asking forgiveness for past sins and his constant use of coarse language.  He offers a gift of what he claims is 25' of rubber jacketed electrical cord but is really just a piece of solder.
 

 
 
Unmoved by this insincerity, the Creator instead drops a 29 Ford flatbed on his head.
 

 
 
The brightness level of the LED will eventually be adjusted down quite low. I hope it will bring attention to the frame structure and keep the pit from becoming a black hole.
 

 

 

 
 
Thanks for taking a look.  Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

Evening all,    Last stage of this build  -  I finshed making the tow ropes, these were fiddly  little fellas  as they are made of  thread, this needed  re-twisting  then gluing to keep the shape, then the ends were glued,   I then had to manufacture  Two clips  to hold them at the back  - but was able to use the Two original ones  from the  kit  (the other Two went missing).
I then painted and weathered  them.
 
So  I am calling this   Finished.
 
Sincere thanks to all the feedback and help  encouragement  with this  build  - it was a  great model to build  and am I  looking forward  to the M1   kit   "oh yes  deffo"
 
So here are the  last pics  of it.
 
OC.

Riveting stuff!  
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
 
So, back to the Vikings...
 
Here is a run through the revised, revised version of my rivet-fixing process.  The first set of photos are from yesterday morning, pre-Covid jab.  I have not duplicated photos of steps shown in earlier posts.
 
1.  Drill the hole for the rivet (as before).  I toyed with the idea of putting the rove in place first, then drilling through from the inside but after a moment's thought discarded this idea since the crucial visual alignment has to be the external rivet heads.
 
2.  Cut a small length of copper tape (as before).
 
3.  Pin the rove to a cutting surface and then cut to size.  I used a needle which was finer.
 

 
I discovered two things at this stage.  The good thing was that the cutting actually freed the backing paper making it much easier to separate but the cutting to size was actually easier to do before the pinning (the needle got in the way of the knife).
 

 
4.  Put the needle with the 'skewered' rove into the predrilled hole and press into place.
 

 

 
5.  Insert the copper nail into the hole, finishing off with what I now know is a rivet snap (as before) to dome the head (as before).
 
6.  Cut off excess internal nail (as before)
 
The next set of photos show the final result of the first complete one I did this morning:
 

 

 
After patination
 

 

 
This time I cut the rove before 'skewering' it.  By this stage the rove is quite small so getting the needle in place (as central as possible) takes practice; it also reminded me why I started out by cutting the rove AFTER it was in place, although being able to cut onto a harder board than the strake made for a cleaner cut and avoided damage to the strake.
 
As the pictures show the rove is still slightly bigger than it should be; the estimated size from the residual marks of iron on the excavated wreck is approximately 2x2.5 cm which would be 1x1.25mm at scale and this would leave hardly any copper around the needle.  I'll see how small I can get.  
 
Lessons:
This is fiddly work but a lot easier now than when I started, thanks to all your ideas and suggestions.
Don't do this when tired (obvious) or within 18 hours of a Covid jab (my arm was really sore last night but now fine!).
Magnifying spectacles would be really helpful (I've just ordered some).
Doing the riveting this way (without any clenching) means the entire process could be done after the planking has been finished.  This would means I could finish the smoothing, sanding and staining before any rivets and roves get in the way and are at risk of damage.
 
Antony
 

Thanks for all your comments and continued support!😉
The squad of soldiers from the 251 are basically finished 
Just some small touch ups to do
you'll  note the gun crew have removed the loose live shells but not the empty shell casings 
thanks for watching!
cheers

Thanks for your input, guys!  I made a decision!
 
I finished planking the bulwarks except for the plank sheers.  This was done in boxwood, including the black strake.  The upper and lowers wales are ebony.  I chose to make the center "filling wale" out of boxwood for the contrast.  In the AOTS series, both HMS Blandford and Royal Yacht Caroline have this arrangement for the wales.  I decided not to use hooked scarf joint on the ebony wales since they wouldn't show up well.  The filling wale joints are typically butt joints but I took some license and made a couple of hook scarfs: one on each side.
 
I cut some holly planking and dyed it an aqua/turquoise blue.  I used Transfast water soluble dye so I could glue the planks without worrying if the glue would hold.  Do you guys like the look, or is it "too much" for a natural wood model?  I'm not committed to anything yet.  Those planks are just sitting there!