BLACK VIKING

deck planks were cut in 10 cm each and the caulking was made with soft black pencil.
 I have marked the deck with parallel squares just to ensure the right positioning of the deck planks. In some occasions I have to make micro adjustments to keep them in a straight line

 

always planking from center toward sides
 

Half done
 

need some sanding, caulking looking good for this scale (1:98) will be darker when oil is applied
 

with half deck oiled the difference is obvious!!!
 

Would have said there was another update folks  - I had intended,    but I have had the day from hell   - seriously want to do a bit more though to keep me sane.
 
Hopefully  more pics later when I do a bit.
 
OC.

Hey Dan,  These were photo-etch pieces.  I’ll show you what I mean at our ZOOM meeting on Tuesday.
 
Leading into Labor Day Weekend, I realized that I would need to cram-in a ton of hours, if I had any hope of getting where I wanted before the Joint Clubs meeting.  And so, my wife and kids went off to CT to stay poolside, with family, and I got to work.
 
The primary objective of the weekend was to erect the forward bulwarks.  I gave the lapping joint of each bulwark piece a third going-over to ensure absolutely the best fit possible.  Unfortunately, it cannot be avoided that the part will always be under tension, as it must bend significantly to conform to the run of the hull.
 
Anticipating this, I had affixed a styrene tab at the point where tension is greatest.  My glue plan was to cement a welded bond along the rabbet with liquid styrene cement, but also to apply CA to the additional tab for a contact bond that would assist the tweezer spring-clamps that I bought for this purpose.
 
Where the bulwark joins the beakhead bulkhead, I similarly used styrene cement below the forecastle deck ledge, and a spot of CA above the ledge.  There was simply no good way to clamp this corner, owing to its extreme tumblehome, so I used a tape clamp to assist during drying.
 
First, I put some blue tape down to protect the deck from any errant glue drops:
 

 
I also applied two layers of blue tape to the clamp jaws, as these particular spring clamps apply a really strong bite onto the material; I was hoping not to mar my paint.
 


 
For better leverage with the smaller clamps, I made up small styrene clamping cauls that hooked beneath the wales to which they were taped in-place.  As with any significant glue-up, a dry-run really helps steer you away from potential pit-falls; before making the cauls, I found that the small clamps only had a tenuous grip on what is really a very shallow lap-joint.
 
With only a few small gaps that touch-up paint will fill, I ended up with really tight-fitting joints and enough small squeeze-out to convince me that there is a strong welded bond along the part’s entire length:
 


 
The relative mass of the model is becoming apparent now:
 


 
I will say that while the skid segments lined up near perfectly, I will still have to fill a few gaps, here and there, with sanded shims of styrene strip.  This is not a big deal, and I prefer to use plastic, rather than putty, wherever possible.  Also, the squeeze-out is not a major chore to clean away.  I have a purpose-ground #11 blade that works like a semi-sharp glue chisel to scrape away the excess.
 
Now that the bulwarks were up, I could install the gusset pieces that serve a dual purpose: they re-enforce the lap-joint by increasing glue surface area between the deck and the bulwarks.  Also, they will eventually serve as mounting points for my deck beams.  After scribing-in and glueing, the bulwarks became notably stiffer:
 

 
Unlike the lower decks, this time I thought to black-out these gusset pieces, as more light will penetrate below these upper decks.
 
Next, I wanted to final fit the open sheaves I made for the top corners of the beakhead bulkhead rail.  I also wanted to make knees for these corners.  While the sheaves are a contrivance, on my part, to cover for the height discrepancy between the bulwark top rails, these knees were an actual feature of real practice.  Just as they do on a real ship, the knees I made increase surface area and do quite a lot to strengthen the area.  Frankly, I just don’t trust CA to do the hevy lifting of holding these corners together, over time:
 

 
Although it is not readily apparent in the picture above, I simulated the bolt heads that hold these knees in place.  Also, above, I am holding in-place the forward beam ledge for the forecastle deck.
 
So, finally, I’m approaching the finish-line for painting of the aft port bulwark piece.  There is still some gold work to do on the siren figures, as well as the quarter piece, but now the full color scheme comes into clear focus:
 

 
My objective with the paintwork, because I have chosen such a vivid scheme, is to identify areas where I can replicate the same colors and techniques, in order to create a sense of continuity.  All throughout the ship, anything with a fishtail gets painted first with a grey enamel under-wash, and then top-coated with the ver-de-gris wash.
 

 
I also really liked the use of silver metallic beneath a more natural green wash, that I used for the female Four Seasons figures, on the stern.  The siren on the aft end of the amortisement received this particular treatment for her dress, and the wash-coat really highlights the sculpted folds of the dress very nicely.
 
For the face and neck of the quarter piece, I decided to use the same enamel grey wash and wipe-away technique that I applied to the horse-head of the figurehead.  It’s subtle, but it really brings out the small facial features of these sculptures. The four Continental figures will also receive this treatment.  I think it lends these statues a sense of aged neo-classicism.
 
So, soon I will make and fit the gusset pieces for the aft bulwark piece, and hopefully get the whole assembly glued-up and touched-up in time for the show.  Thank you all for the likes, comments and for looking in! 

Ok, i slept over it and then did a few measurements, the difference on the bow is 0.2mm, noticeable at this stage if you look very close but nothing major:

 
The waist i measured again from the top and the difference there is 0.9mm, can be fixed with the outer Planking layer, i am a bit relieved that i dont have to correct 2mm at the gunport level.
 

 
Preparing to continue with the planking, i have traced the line of the bow planks onto a piece of clear film and the bend there is barely noticeable, i wonder if i should even bother with edge-bending using an iron, or just to use a little bit of water to make the bend while attaching the plank:

 
 

Hi all,
after quite some time, during which I worked on my ship model, I am now back to my Mig. I glued all the main parts of the airframe, included the fuselage portions, and spent time on inscribing the lost details. In particular, the joint between the fuselage parts needed few CA filling, sanding and scribing sessions. Then the details which need to be left unpainted were masked, the airframe was readied for the primer by degreasing it with alcohol.
 

 
I sprayed a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500 which went on nicely leaving a very smooth surface.
 

 
To check the work on the re-scribed details, I applied some Tamiya black panel liner which revealed the lines and gave a more 3D appearance to the model. After few corrections, I sanded all the airframe with wet extra fine sand paper obtaining a very consistently smooth surface.
 

 

 
Now the model starts to look like an aircraft. Few bits to add, the control surfaces, flaps and landing gear covers need also to be primed and camouflage painting can start.
 
Best regards,
Dan.

Hi all,
some more important steps on assembling  the airframe. The fuselage with wings and a tail (not glued yet).
 

 
The fit of the wing roots is OK on the upper side but a bit disappointing on the other side:
 

 
I resorted to fill the gaps with stretched sprue from the kit for a minimal disruption of the surface  details:
 

 
The P-51 drop tank in the background of the picture is waiting to become the new jet pipe to be installed inside the airframe, as anticipated in a post above. The tank was cut at the tapered end and its walls were sanded down to a suitable thickness. Supporting bracketry was improvised from styrene card:
 

 
An annular gap was left between the pipe and the airframe as was seen in pictures:
 

 
I also built some fictional tubing into the wheel bays for added detailing:
 

 
Next, the main parts will be glued together and paintwork can begin.
That's all for now, I need to restart working on my ship, so I am afraid that updates will be even slower if possible. 
Best regards,
Dan.
 
 
 

E.J.
 
Just catching up - really great work, banister railing, curved steps and your figurehead - super nice progress indeed.
 
Cheers,

Last few weeks I have been working on the figurehead. Here are the progress photos carving it out of a block of basswood. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi – have not at all visited MSW for what seems like a  couple of months – yikes!!!
Been busy with a new work opportunity that required a lot of seat time, new learning, re-certifications and a test Grrrr. But during my free “mental time” I only worked on the SotS –, doing almost nothing else - good therapy (;-))
 
During that time finished up the forecastle. Here are some images (probably too many). As always thanks for dropping by, likes, and comments. Next up the side support railings for the bowsprit deck…..
 
OK - Now back to a more normal routine -- need to catch up and click likes at the great build logs that I am following here. Lot’s of catching up to do.
 
Cheers,
 

Using Vallejo acrylic paints, started by spraying on black primer. The first face and flesh color applied by brush is brown sand. This will be followed by many multiple thin coats of various flesh shades to achieve a desired outcome. For this exercise, I made a “wet palette” to keep the paint thin and wet. Vallejo and others subscribe to many thin coat applications to prevent any ‘clumpiness’ in the finished paint.
 

Greetings...
 
Work on the Revenge has been a bit sporadic over the past few months.  Now that the shrouds and ratlines are complete, progress should be a a slightly faster pace.  Here is a photo of the ship at this stage...

 
Next up are the stays.  Photo below is the main stay (2 mm) with mouse (the part that goes around the mast is served) and it's collar which is served in it's entirety.  Note the eye splice in each.  The bowsprit gammoning has also been placed.  I have to be very careful when turning the ship so as not to snap anything off!

 
I'll post a few more pics after the stays are complete.
 
jeff

Heinz,
Thank you, comments appreciated.   From time to time I visit your build log to steal some ideas.🙂
 
Sjors,
Thanks for your comments.  You yourself are doing a very good job on your Victory.
 
Now I have basically started the rigging.  As per kit manual I started with the shrouds on the lower masts.  I had already done the pendants before.  I started by serving the part of the shroud that goes round the mast.  The forward shroud is served all the way.  The thread for the Mizzen mast is a different size.
 
First I tied the shrouds round the mast

 
Then I tied the deadeyes with the shrouds, also tied the cleats to the shrouds before rigging the lanyards.  The lanyards still have to be tensioned and tied. I will do them together starting from the front, set by set alternating from starboard to port when I have all the shrouds in place.

 

 
 This is the knot and the way I am tying the shrouds to the mast and to the deadeyes.  I had seen how to do this type of knot on Youtube   For the knots I am using the 0.25mm thread.

 
Five times around the bunched thread, end passed through the small loop.

 
Tighten the knot, fit the deadeye in the loop by pulling either the very end of the shroud or the other end going up to the mast, to get the deadeye at the right height from the channel. 

 
Same knot used.

 

 
When all four knots are done I go over them with white glue and when dry trim the ends.

 
 
Robert
 
 

Erycina was a Plymouth Ketch-Rigged Trawler, launched as a cutter in 1882 and converted to a Ketch in 1894. This is one of three next subjects from Vanguard Models, following on from their previous Fifie and Zulu fishers. I'll be starting build logs for the other fishers when I'm ready. One of those, Nisha, will be built concurrently with this one. Out of Erycina and Nisha, Erycina is the large one, as you'll see from a cut test prototype in a photo below. Again, construction is an MDF core, with lime/pear planking and an engraved maple deck. There will be sail sets available for these.

Here is Erycina!

Here's some photos of the initial test prototype which is refined to make the production parts. Erycina is of course the larger vessel:



 
My HMS Sphinx is now in the last days of work, so I'll be taking a day or so off afterwards to indulge in my PlayStation5 and mindless killing in Assassin's Creed, then work on this will begin. Until then, here are the parts (minus planks).
 




 
More when I have it  

With the engine and driveshaft added, will add some weathering and rust, then the exhaust system and radiator before beginning the body panels and interior.
 

Oh man, I used the heck out of the automotive tools I once owned back in the day. Not so much these days. Been a long long time since I last owned a 60's car. More than 20 years ago. Last car I did any extensive work on was my '96 Buick Riviera. Loved the way that car looked and drove. Supercharged V-6. Once that car reached the end of its warranty, 36,000 miles, almost everything you can imagine started breaking and needing replacement. 
Thanks on the 44 years. She's been a keeper. 

Vacations over and back to real life.
Read all this on vacation.
https://www.hnsa.org/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/sail-making-vol-i/   (HNSA)
https://www.hmsrichmond.org/sailmker.htm
https://textileranger.com/2016/08/01/even-more-sail-history/       (textiles)
http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Rigging/Sails/Wasa-sails.html
 
Available info 16th century : virtually nothing;    17th century : some;    18th century and later : good.
 
All this is internet info, so it could be wrong
Thread thickness : Vasa would have had an average of 10 threads per cm. Converted there should be about 450 threads per cm on a scale of 1/45 (impossible)
Tabling : from a few inches (sailmaker) to a detailed description (HNSA page 93)
Clotchs width : 24 inch (sailmaker) 23-30 inch (textiles)
(bolt) ropes above and around the sail (HNSA page 95)

Very nice sails can indeed be made with the silkspan, modelspan. But personally I don't like to see them on a wooden 16th century model.
That's why I continue my my cotton. 
I think I found something to make the texture less rough.
 
First :stitching seams

 
"hem" (bad English ?? ) "omzomen" (in Dutch) and glue with diluted pva 
sew, sew, sew... Then smear the sail on both sides with colorless shoe polish ( beeswax and carnauba wax, wow)

result

Not quite yet what it could be, but better than the diluted black wash test (bad picture)
Thanks for comments, likes and following

after the props were touched up,  they were added to the model.   this was the last thing to be done......the model is finished.  as mentioned,  I had to make a couple of things to accommodate the decals to a smaller scale,  but I'm happy with the way it looks.   I'm even happy with the wheels and how they are tucked into the wells........if I do this with the Pacific Raiders model,  I will need to make a stand for her.  the pictures do speak for themselves,  so here they are.  

 

 

here's where I noticed the decal error......

 

 

 

 

 

I saw pictures where the area under the wing root was painted out........they supplied the decal,  but didn't show it in their diagrams.
 
   the fate of Sunshine is not really known.   she lost two engines and landed in Venegono in 1944,  only to be detained by the Italians.  the plane and crew were later handed over to the Germans.  the crew was sent to Stalag Luft I,  and the plane received two new engines and was flown to Germany for testing.  it was then delivered to the KG 200 and possibly given the code numbers A3+FK.  the plane would latter be used to infiltrate and monitor RAF nocturnal bomber chatter.  at some paint the marking did change a little,  but the nose art was kept intact.  the plane seemed to disappear,  until Jan of 1945,  when a plane with the numbers A3+FK was shown to have logged in at Wiener-Neustadt air base.  no further information was found until the end of the war,  when forces stumbled on the wreckage of a B 24.  there were no discernable markings on the plane to say either way,  if it was Sunshine,  but the fact that she was never recovered,  would suggest that she didn't survive the war.  Sunshine was the second B 24 to fall into German hands....the B 24,  Blonde Bomber II was the first.  information points that she never entered service with the KG 200.
 
thanks to all for sitting through the debacle for my second installment....I'm sure you folks were confused.  the KG 200 book lists many planes that were used by the Germans.  from Mustangs and P 38's {only two were known of},  to aircraft of the British and French air forces.........one never can rule out that there may be another installment.......#3  
 
thanks again for your interest and support   

So after all that fiddly stuff, time to cover it all up. 
 

 
The admiral (head shark hunter) thinks I should find a way to open the deck to show the interior, what do you think?

...and the pilot house:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I decided to make a companion for my Sopwith Camel (posted here a while back)  The Fokker DR 1 seemed most appropriate choice. If I had to chose the most enjoyable build, I’d say it was the Camel. In saying that, I’m happy with the way the DR1 turned out. 
cheers
Steve. 
 
 

There is a gentleman who made a replica of that plane in one of the local airports, Franklin County Airport, NC. That plane can take off within 50 yards and is a pleasure to see flying.
 
Your model is remarkable.
 
Yves

So its time to put all the props in place as I'm now itching to get on with the rest of the boat.
 
Starting with the lower trunk cabin and V berth. 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then the beams above...
 

KIT DELIVERED
The pre ordered HMS Sphinx kit has now arrived and I am now really looking forward to starting the build. The prototype kit built by James Hatch looks amazing and is the build standard I would like to aspire to.
 
I downloaded on-line build manual earlier this month in eager anticipation of receiving the kit and I spent many hours getting familiar with the build processes and, where necessary, adding to my tool and paint collection.
 
I plan to take my time with this build (which will be a first for me!). I have started a build log, which will show how I have implemented the information contained in the building manual (rev 1) and the 23 off plan sheets. I will also share any tips, problems, etc. which may help others with their build.
 
The kit was well packaged and protected

 
There was a little bit of transit damage to the box, but the kit was so well packed and protected there were no problems with the kit once the box was opened.

 
An example of the protection

 
A very nice touch, a HMS Sphinx coaster

 
The pear wood fitting (an optional extra)

 
The manual looks very good

 
The plan sheets are very well presented

 
More layers of protection

 
LINK TO MY BUILD LOG
 

Building the Sphinx - Post One
This is where the build starts in earnest, I always start a build with a keel support, partly to hold the hull in the early stages and partly to keep the false keel straight.
It also provides a level surface to check square.

3625

3624

3623
This will be modified several times during the course of the build.
 
I don’t intend to do a step-by-step assembly log, there is the excellent manual for that.
I do have to mention what a wonderful job Chris and James have done in producing the manual, probably the best I’ve ever seen.
 
My initial view of what I have seen in the box is very positive, I have not concerned myself with checking every part against the parts list as I know Chris will respond to any issues that may crop up.
 
I will restrict this log to commenting on areas where I have had difficulty or found problems (hopefully very few), areas where I have made modifications, and the approach I have taken in tackling different stages of the build where it diverts from the indicated path.
 
Time to introduce bulkheads to false keel.
 
B.E.
 
24/08/21
 

Thank you kindly Gary, she is improving  very very  slowly  - I have never made her so many cups of tea in my life.
 
OC.