BLACK VIKING

I have the more expensive Tamiya Yamato kit, and it is so much better than the standard older kit.
 
As it's snowing heavily here today, I won't be going to the workshop to sand the prototype hull. Instead, I thought I'd dry fit another critical area, the bow. This is made up of 14 parts and, as with Duchess and fishing boats (and all new future kits), it has the rabbet worked into the prow and keel parts. Again, these are just for checking and are throwaway parts..
 
The figurehead is the kit version. Each kit will have a 3-d printed figurehead with zero trimming required. The 20 x 9 pounder short cannon barrels will also be 3-d printed in a matt black colour, an example of which is shown. I have given Jim two sets of carriages, a set with and a set without the cap squares pre-cut into the cheek. I think the pre-cut cap squares may win the day. Ladders this time will be laser cut and etched in 0.6mm pear, making them more to scale, thickness-wise (5 ladder sets altogether for Sphinx)

Pilots,! Think i might need one!

To all my friends concerned with keeping the friendships and memories of The Arctic Convoys and what they meant to our countries, fresh in the minds of future generations. Seasons greetings. Health. Wealth. Happiness and always a Fathom below your Keel.

Bosco, I have removed the link due to copyright infringement.
The content  ranges from a majority of dull documents to a number of copyrighted books, fiction and non-fiction alike. There are two sides to the problem: First, this site provides the means to upload copyrighted material without “editorial interference or approval”, thus creating financial damage to the publishing industry.  

Piece of cardboard!
 
I’m thinking of masking the centre line as there is a Chanel that runs down the centre. 
 
there will also be a big bloody helicopter parked there! 
 
I ordered this set off the internet’s as it has the ships names as well which can go on the stern. There are safely signs all over the ship as well which I might just use cut up decals . 

Another two small ones, photographed on one of my more usual 16.5“ X 11.75” Herzogin Cecilie and Ocean Angel    

Schooner iced up. A particular danger in sailing vessels, not just extra top hamper, but running rigging tends to seize up so sails become unmanageable. W/C 16.5” X 11.75”

Planking second layer, last picture was from July.
This picture is from Christmas time ( candle stick in the window)

 
The stern part or rear end was ok but the front/bow was not easy.
 
 
I had to fix wood in opposite direction. Not nice but the curvature was to much in two axles at the same time.

 
And then do the same once more. For a moment I had forgotten about the other side.😬

 
I followed the same procedure using the plastic "fake" ports as templates for the wood. It was tricky to get the right length but then I did not have to fix the openings afterwards.
I started one level up with the first stripe. Just under the ports of the upper cannon deck.

 
So much better finish using walnut than the pine in the first layer.

 

In the following picture I mark the area with most grinding. This area was very thin.

 
I saw this from the book way to joint the ends. Do not know what it is called.

 

I had to do the same fix at the bow as on the other side. Not nice but maybe I should have started from the keel and upward.
 

 
I was also a bit confused how to and the planking towards the keel. It had to match the base/pedestal.
 
 

 
Finally planking done (may to mars) - I decide to fix the front.

With a mix of both tooth picks and nails.

Coming up - the balcony 1, 2, 3 and 4. I did not look forward to this part. I know it would not be easy to hide mistakes.
 

 
I noticed that I had one cannon port were it was not supposed to be one.

 

Here a picture from the Wasa vreck:

 
I decided to to each balcony detachable (and to fixed them later). In this way I could remove them when working on other parts avoiding breaking any details.
I even thought about making a secret opening to hide stuff in but skipped that thought.

 

East Coast Convoy assembling off Southend Pier
16”.5  X 10.75”

Hi Lou, thanks for commenting. No I don’t have a Corvette model in the house.( in fact I have 4 RC 1/16th scale Tanks Tiger,Sherman,T90, and T34. RC boats need water. I can run my Tanks in the garden!) I could paint most well known WW2 RN ships from memory, but I do use photos. I like painting 'small' ships, they can get up to all sorts of things. I really don’t like painting 'a ship'. I much prefer painting a story with ships in it. I can’t really explain how I paint, I just do it. I’m 80 next year so I’ve been 'at it' since I was about 5!. The first pic I can remember was a Tractor with hills behind it on a blackboard when I started school. Don’t suppose this helps but at least it’s a bit of background.
jim
ps White Tail Sea Eagle 
 


 
 

HMS EAGLE on a hot windless day in the Tropics.Buccaneers parked in Fly 1&4, Sea Vixen about to touch down , with another on Finals and the good old Gannet plodding 'Down Wind', no doubt looking forward to something long and cool in the Wardroom
w/c 16.5”X10.75

I have finally come to an end as my eyes have given in to double vision.
I have posted the last lot of work.

Just thought I would mention that it looks like I will have an Australian distributor soon, Modelers Central. I think they will be placing an order in the new year.

Starting the carving......
 

 
 


And.... let see the final result with the capital included......
 

I could not hold the temptation to see it beside the ship....
 

 
 
 

A beautiful sunlight on my USS Confederacy before winter darkness : Long live, America  !   😃
               

Thanks for all the likes guys.
A bit more done on the SR . The ratlines have all been completed yippee and have now started on the yards of the foremast.        
I have decided to have them with furled sails and dropped upper yards. The first yard was made as per instructions and the sail cut down to one third it's size to get rid of the bulk as the material was quite thick. I then rolled it up and tied to the yard and teased into shape. I have never tried this before and am quite happy with the result. Next job the rest of the yards. 
Cheers for following 
Martyn

Cheers for the comments guys and the likes 
This is going to be the last update on the SR as she is now complete.
This has been a pleasure to build and I really like the way she has turned out. All the sails have now been finished and I am pleased with the result as this is the first time I have tried furled sails and it shows the deck of well . The crew have been placed on the decks and rope coils on the belay pins and knightsheads.
Thanks again for the brilliant comments and the likes. See you next time with my next build .
Martyn 

Others don't like it, but I found it cleaner, and less difficult...
 
Other possible solution :

 

Ronald, in the pics provided you can see I have made the bend with the twist using a candle. I used some old bass or lime wood 1/16” x 1/4”. This took about five minutes after soaking it for 2 or 3 minutes. Twist in opposite directions while putting a bend in it at the same time. Lay against the hull where it fits and trim.  Pay no attention to the scrap piece of cherry, it was not used in the process. Hope this helps. 
 
In my opinion, soaking for 12 hours is way too long. Wood will only hold so much water. If I’m using boxwood I only soak it 30 minutes or so. 
 

 

 

Hello all......

I already brought the diorama Base......
 


The idea is to build a dry dock “simulation...... and in the back side I’ll build a “wall” simulating the Sahure King tomb (. Let’s remember that the “Byblos ship pictures were found in his tomb).....
 



Well...... I went to the “odonthology” method.... and using the PLASTER CASTING material I created the “wall”..... but first I took the drawing from Landstrom book, imported to Autocad and created a full picture with 25 cm long....
 

Then I put it over the “wall” and with carbon paper I reproduced the image over it.....
 

Created the “stones”.....
 

 
And started to carving all these “details”.....
 



It is going to be a long way before it is finished....
 

After finnishing the fore and main mast, i started with the mast top of the mizzen mast.
 
There is a choice with or without a mast top. I chose to build a mast top, but smaller and simpler than the 2 previous ones.



A little too much removed from the fore castle 
So, repair and repainting.

The modified version (almost correct)

The 3 masts and the bowsprit dry fitted in place (and someone is taking a nap 😴)

My loyal assistant, on the lookout in the mast top 

The wooden parts of the masts are now ready, the masts are now first further finished (bolts and other metalwork).
And then think about how and where the deadeyes are attached to the mast tops.
 
Thanks for following

Killiecrankie and Montrose steaming down the Forth. with Edinburgh and the Lothians in the distance. w/c 16”X 11”

Thanks all!
 
The jig is upright, like my Blandford and POF Armed Virginia sloop.  The plans for the jig top lay it out in two pieces, joined at the midline.  Proper alignment is important.  The first step is to use spray adhesive to attach the jig top template to some ¼” plywood and then cut out the center part and form the notches that hold the frames in place.  There are 5 double frames and 12 single frames – 17 in all.  The run of the frames moving aft is pretty straight except for the last few which begin to turn inward, narrowing the hull.  The last three frames also rise on the hog.  The jig top is positioned on 4 supports that hold the top such that the top surface of the jig top coincides with the load waterline.                      
 
 

Wow absolutely stunning 
 
BV