JesseLee

I created a jig to get the thwarts evenly spaced. I'm pleased with the results.

That looks fabulous. With such great rope available I don't know how we can continue to justify using the kit supplied stuff. 
 
(Finances not withstanding of course)
 

Back by overwhelming request.  I am re-stocking 2mm scale rope at Syren.  I will make it in all for colors.   Shown below is my 2mm light brown and tan colors.....the bottom photo shows light brown and dark brown.  That is my favorite combination for standing and running rigging.  This is very big rope and its super time-consuming to make.   It is 4 strand rope with each strand also being 4 strand rope.  The 2mm rope is all right hand laid and it is sold in 10 foot lengths per package.  Super crisp.....NO LUMPS.....NO FUZZ!!!  In stock now.
 
Thank you for requesting this size be resurrected.   
 
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php
 

 

I spent some time making filler blocks today. Cutting up that $11.99 piece of Balsa Wood almost made me cry. 

More pre-bending. Nobody should think that planks just zip right on.

Then I began to make the mast elements

Hi everyone!
So, here you can see some more small updates in this project. 
First of all, I continued working with deck houses

Steve,
I have never put the copper on since I like looking at all the wood working. My  first and last ship were veneered and I didn't have any trouble lining off the first veneer strip. Never gave it much thought.
 
Below is a pic of my last veneer job.

One side pre-bending, the other side glued

another day another plank being pre-bent. The open gap is shrinking, though. Slow but sure

Count me in too!
 
Jesse

Wow, JesseLee, those carronades and tackle looks magnificent - as the rope coils.  ice progress.
Congrats with the negative cancer report.
 
Cheers,

Just found this. I'll be following along too!
 
Jesse

Still slowly plugging away at it. On top of everything else I have had some other health issues lately. Thought there might be some colon cancer but everything came out clear. Been difficult to get much work done in the shipyard.
 
Got the tackle rigging for the sleds all hooked on. Found it difficult to do this. Found that a tiny bit of CA glue on each hook kept things in place (they kept on unhooking themselves when I would try to hook the one beside it on).  I pulled the slack out of each line and painted them with watered down white glue to prevent the lines from loosening up.
 
As for the coils I decided to go with the basic ones like Chuck shows in the instruction book because the other way is to complicated for me now with my limitations due to my health condition. I used a plastic bracelet that the kids like that glows when they first use them. The plastic tube that connects it is taken off so it straightens out. I wrap the line around it and brush watered down glue. It is just the right size for shaping the coils. (My wife fusses at me for saving every piece of junk like this but I always find a use for it!) None of them are glued in place on the deck yet.
 
Jesse
 

Count me in too!
 
Jesse

Still slowly plugging away at it. On top of everything else I have had some other health issues lately. Thought there might be some colon cancer but everything came out clear. Been difficult to get much work done in the shipyard.
 
Got the tackle rigging for the sleds all hooked on. Found it difficult to do this. Found that a tiny bit of CA glue on each hook kept things in place (they kept on unhooking themselves when I would try to hook the one beside it on).  I pulled the slack out of each line and painted them with watered down white glue to prevent the lines from loosening up.
 
As for the coils I decided to go with the basic ones like Chuck shows in the instruction book because the other way is to complicated for me now with my limitations due to my health condition. I used a plastic bracelet that the kids like that glows when they first use them. The plastic tube that connects it is taken off so it straightens out. I wrap the line around it and brush watered down glue. It is just the right size for shaping the coils. (My wife fusses at me for saving every piece of junk like this but I always find a use for it!) None of them are glued in place on the deck yet.
 
Jesse
 

Just found this. I'll be following along too!
 
Jesse

Still slowly plugging away at it. On top of everything else I have had some other health issues lately. Thought there might be some colon cancer but everything came out clear. Been difficult to get much work done in the shipyard.
 
Got the tackle rigging for the sleds all hooked on. Found it difficult to do this. Found that a tiny bit of CA glue on each hook kept things in place (they kept on unhooking themselves when I would try to hook the one beside it on).  I pulled the slack out of each line and painted them with watered down white glue to prevent the lines from loosening up.
 
As for the coils I decided to go with the basic ones like Chuck shows in the instruction book because the other way is to complicated for me now with my limitations due to my health condition. I used a plastic bracelet that the kids like that glows when they first use them. The plastic tube that connects it is taken off so it straightens out. I wrap the line around it and brush watered down glue. It is just the right size for shaping the coils. (My wife fusses at me for saving every piece of junk like this but I always find a use for it!) None of them are glued in place on the deck yet.
 
Jesse
 

Just found this. I'll be following along too!
 
Jesse

Hello again! It's been a few weeks since I've updated my log and thought it time to do so again. First, I added the cockpit flooring. That was just glueing the supports and short planks in place.

Then was figuring out and adding the mounting system. Kurt recommended using t-nuts for that. 
I then located and drilled a hole on either side of the keel, one below the fore deck and one below the aft. I then aligned that hole and drilled it in to the filler block. Taking into account the thickness of the base of the t-nuts, I layered the wood so that when the t-nuts were installed they would sit flush with the base.

I then glued them on to their respective places and used a screw to keep them aligned.
 
After that, I lined off the hull and started planking. I have thinned the ends of the planks that for into the rabbet and beveled the underside of the planks for a tight fit. I also used a number 2 pencil to add 'caulk' to the underside of each plank. I first soaked the planks and clamped them to the hull to dry. I noticed that the field made small debts in the planks that way. A lake water and a bit of sanding makes it not noticeable, but since then I've used little balsa tabs as spacers to take the dent. So far I have finished the sheerstrake on both sides. I have noticed that although the planks above the Wales aren't spiled, they do vary in width. Thanks for looking in!

 
 

Hello again everybody! In the past two weeks or so I have gotten most of the steps before planking done.
 
I glued the parts that form the base together on the flattest surface available. I then glued the keel to the base.

I then proceeded to the framing. It was a simple process of beveling the bulkheads where it was needed. The process did not take long because the bulkheads included laser etched guides. I used Legos as squares to glue the frames straight. 

Next up are the cockpit floors and the lining off of the hull for planking. You might have noticed that the lines on the frames in the photo above are to help with that process. This kit has proved so far to be very well designed! Thanks for looking in!
 

Robert,
I appreciate the compliment on the 26' longboat. Below is the order I placed. I went through the practicum and parts list to determine what I would order to supplement the kit. I did my best to calculate extra material for mistakes. Also, Wood Project Source included extra strips in every dimension. I suppose it was the remaining wood from the sheets they used to mill the strips.
Steve
 
1/32" x 3/16"x 24" 40 strips for planking and risers
1/32" x 1/4"x 24" 10 strips for floorboards and aft platform
1/32" x 1/8"x 24" 5 strips for inboard planking
1/32" x 1/16"x 24" 6 strips for outboard mouldings and inboard panels
1/16" x 5/16"x 24" 3 strips for thwarts and front platform
1/16" x 1/16"x 24" 2 strips for stanchions
3/32" x 3/32"x 24" 3 strips for oars
1/16" x 3" x 24" 2 sheets for cap rail

I have to say that Wood Project Source has earned my loyalty. A very well packaged, accurate order of hard maple has arrived. Thank you, Roman, for the quality cutting and extra milled strips!
Steve

After completing the English Longboat, this build of the English Pinnace seems like the next logical project for me. I placed an order with Wood Project Source for some hard maple. This order covers the planking and various other aspects of the build. The laser cut parts from the kit will be used, of course. I'm very curious how it is to work with hard maple. 
 
A photo of the plans, practicum, and my planking fan is included for your enjoyment while I procrastinate on creating a building board for this project. Welcome!
Steve

One more clamp free plank glued on