Yambo

Thank you all, I really appreciate your support.
I must admit though I am not at all confident that the boat will end up looking as good as it deserves.
 
With a baby now in the house work progresses slowly. The sheer plank rivets are now left and of course all rivets forward of station 0 at the bow.
 

 
This plank was left unpainted by the american team and I am tempted to do the same. There will also be a rub rail added which will hide the uppermost rivet line. In the next picture also note the shaping of the stem which at the level of the sheer plank is left square.
 

 
I needed a brake so I concentrated on the false stem. It was first shaped with the needle files and then glued to the hull. Hopefully there is some similarity with the previous picture.
 

 

 

 
With this done its back to riveting. I am concerned that the CA glue will stain the wood and although this is not a problem for the lower planks, if the sheer plank is left unpainted it will need a lot of sanding which with all the rivets will be ddifficult. I am also concerned that there will be a lot of stains on the inside of the hull but there is no better alternative to superglue. So here it goes.
First I covered the plank and then marked the width of the rub rail to make sure all upper rivets will be hidden
 

 

 
And drill and glue and drill and glue and drill and glue...
 

 
Drilling 200 holes in a row is very satisfying
 

 
And another brake was necessary, so I finished cutting the centerboard slot
 

 
And finally all rivets done! There are a few left at the bow but the cant frames need to go in first. The sheer planks are sanded with 180 grit but the glue stains are still somewhat visible.
 

 

 
And finally, the long awaited moment has come. The boat needs to be taken off the jig, turned around for the cant frames to be installed and then positioned back to the jig for the rest of the rivets to go in and then fairing, priming and painting.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Picking up the boat I was surprised, the hull is very light but extremely rigid. Next the cant frames went in which took a bit of head scratching but I am happy with the result.
 

 

 

 
Lots left to be done but making progress at last!

Like many others I have followed your build from the beginning and have not stopped admiring your exquisite workmanship. Many congratulations on finishing this beautiful work of art. 
 
I'm going to miss the updates but I suspect I'll be looking back through the log for inspiration and maybe just to admire your work.
 
Thank you Karl for sharing this build with us. 

Beautiful!

Ah.. update sooner than I thought.  Got the anchor planking done on the starboard side.  I've ripped off the wales and redid them.  Have one small area I'm not thrilled with in the pearwood part.  But I think I can fix that with some more sanding.  I'll sort it out when I go to plank that area.   Next in line is to continue up the rail (cutline).  I won't be cutting her free though for quite a while as like the security of the jig. 
 

Beautiful!

The work continues and new problems and challenges pop up all the time!
 
The fairing putty I got from the model shop is really good, much nicer to work with than the one from the DIY shop. I faired the bow and also trimmed the planks at the the stern and faired the transom.
 

 

 
I have already decided to rivet the boat and I think I should tackle this now. Besides, it would be a nice change from all the laminating and woodwork. I realised however that I did not mark the position of the frames during planking. I tried a simple solution
 

 
This did not work due to the curvature of the hull so a more complex tool had to be improvised which worked fine. The positions of all frames is now marked.
 

 

 

 
I next need to make a pattern so that all rivets all equally spaced. A short maple strip and a folded piece of paper was an easy solution.
 

 

 

 

 
It was easy now to mark the position of the rivets.
 

 

 
The thickness of the plywood is only 0.8 mm so the overlap is too small for the rivets to go through both panels so this line of rivets is not going to be too functional but it needs to be done to stay as close to the original design as possible. Interestingly, the american team added stringers at the lower chines, the next photo shows these as they reach the transom. Either way I think the floor boards will hide this lower river line.
 

 
I drilled the holes with the Dremel and a 0.7 mm good quality drill. I used brass wire for the rivets and CA glue and used masking tape to prevent the glue staining the wood.
 

 

 
There was a learning curve to go through but it worked ok. A few of the rivets have a lot of material to be trimmed on the inside of the hull. I used the grinding wheel on the Dremel to trim the rivets flush with the planks but it did not work out, the wire gets very hot, the glue melts and the rivet just slides in. Trimming with the needle file was much more efficient.
 

 

 
There will be 6 rivet lines per side with approximately 100 rivets each, so around 1200 rivets! That's a lot! I will not rivet past Station 0 as I will complete this job after the cant frames are installed.
 

 

 
I also redid the false stem and added the final plank to the keel. I took the precaution of blocking the centerboard slot to make sure the epoxy does not drip.
 

 

 

 
Next job to glue in and trim the false stem, do some more fairing and of course more rivets! 

This morning I received a great photo from Roger so then spent most of the rest of the morning learning how to make even tighter loops in the tubing.
 

 
After a while I got a couple of parts which looked like a good match, I also used a slightly larger diameter tube that was brass so I also needed another pair of flanges (I'm getting faster at making them at least).
 

 
Soldered them up the same way as the first two times.
 

 
Drilled a larger hole in the new loop
 

 
I wanted to ensure that it was all lined up so soldered the bottom piece while it was on the engine.
 
.
 

 
After lunch I did some more tight loops and get a better bend on the lower part so un-soldered the bottom piece and added the new one with a 5 x 64 threaded coupling
 
Here is the new tap I made it the same way as the other taps.  
 

 
and the final configuration. now I can make the carb
 

 

 
Michael

I somehow managed to find a bit of time to work on the boat. I am waiting for some timber to re-do the false stem and also some filling putty to fair the hull. It is time to concentrate on the keel.
 
 The strip shows the shape of the keel and of the deadwood
 

 

 
I decided to cut the centerboard slot, there will be more wood added but best to do it in two steps as pear wood is hard.
 

 
The job was done with the Dremel using a drill bit to remove the wood like a milling machine and finishing off with the hand files. I was surprised as it was a relatively easy job
 

 

 
Checking again the shape of the keel.
 

 
This is tricky due to the curve of the keel but also due to the fact that its width changes along its length. The best way of approaching this is to put it together in segments, which is how the full size boat would be built. A lot of laminating and sanding had to be done but it seems to come along fine.
 
I made a pattern of the keel near the Transom
 

 
Then I laminated some pear strips to make the deadwood
 

 

 
The deadwood was not wide enough so I added some more wood and also laminated another piece.
 

 
This is a nice solid piece of wood! The Dremel moto saw only just managed to cut it.
 

 

 

 
Fits reasonably well
 

 
The space is starting to fill up
 

 
I added the second piece, nothing is glued yet
 

 
I made a paper pattern of the shape of the keel to prepare the third piece
 

 
All three seem to fit OKish
 

 

 
Lots of sanding later it definitely looks better but long way to go
 
 
More wood needs to be added. There will also be another long plank added on top which need to be shaped
 

 

 

 
All segments so far, getting closer to the end
 

 
It only needs some more sanding so that the long plank fits flush but I think it is almost done. I will need to laminate and install the false stem before gluing everything together, and some serious fairing will need to be done first
 

If I didn't make mistakes I'd be wondering who had made the model.  
 
As others have said, we are our own worst critics. You have to remember that a) it's your model,  b.) most of the people looking at it haven't got a clue. 
 
Your model is excellent! If all you are concerned about are those few things you've mentioned then a lot of us (well, OK, me) had better start over.  
 
*Edit*  I should have said Skipper that the companies that make kits are not averse to mistakes. I'm currently building an AL Bluenose for a friend. There are lots of errors in the kit. I mentioned a few to my friend who wasn't bothered. He thinks it'll look fine just the way AL designed it. I'm thinking of calling it 'Bluenose-ish' as a protest.  

If I didn't make mistakes I'd be wondering who had made the model.  
 
As others have said, we are our own worst critics. You have to remember that a) it's your model,  b.) most of the people looking at it haven't got a clue. 
 
Your model is excellent! If all you are concerned about are those few things you've mentioned then a lot of us (well, OK, me) had better start over.  
 
*Edit*  I should have said Skipper that the companies that make kits are not averse to mistakes. I'm currently building an AL Bluenose for a friend. There are lots of errors in the kit. I mentioned a few to my friend who wasn't bothered. He thinks it'll look fine just the way AL designed it. I'm thinking of calling it 'Bluenose-ish' as a protest.  

If you can put all your tools into organizers you don't have enough tools.

If I didn't make mistakes I'd be wondering who had made the model.  
 
As others have said, we are our own worst critics. You have to remember that a) it's your model,  b.) most of the people looking at it haven't got a clue. 
 
Your model is excellent! If all you are concerned about are those few things you've mentioned then a lot of us (well, OK, me) had better start over.  
 
*Edit*  I should have said Skipper that the companies that make kits are not averse to mistakes. I'm currently building an AL Bluenose for a friend. There are lots of errors in the kit. I mentioned a few to my friend who wasn't bothered. He thinks it'll look fine just the way AL designed it. I'm thinking of calling it 'Bluenose-ish' as a protest.  

John, Steve, Denis, Druxey, Mark, Lawrence, thanks for your kind remarks. A big thanks also to all who have visited.
 
The valves and lifters have been a tricky bit of work so far. Had to make a wrench for the reduced sized nuts.
 

 

 
drilling the holes for the taper pins to fix the cams
 

 

 
All the cams are now pinned in place.
 

 
here is a video of the valves in motion
 
Michael
 
 

All of the hull panels for this 1:10 model of a CLC Skerry were laser cut from 1mm and 1.5mm ply. Using the plans for the full size boat I re-drew them on AutoCad and saved them on a flash drive. A friend in Marmaris (Turkey) is a sign maker and has a laser cutter in his shop. He usually charges me about one TL a minute of use and the panels took just a few minutes (it was awhile back - I've slept since then.   ) The boat was based on stitch and glue construction and I made the model the same way - you can see some of the copper wire stitches holding it together.
 

 
and the finished boat
 
 

 
I made the full size one as well.  

All of the hull panels for this 1:10 model of a CLC Skerry were laser cut from 1mm and 1.5mm ply. Using the plans for the full size boat I re-drew them on AutoCad and saved them on a flash drive. A friend in Marmaris (Turkey) is a sign maker and has a laser cutter in his shop. He usually charges me about one TL a minute of use and the panels took just a few minutes (it was awhile back - I've slept since then.   ) The boat was based on stitch and glue construction and I made the model the same way - you can see some of the copper wire stitches holding it together.
 

 
and the finished boat
 
 

 
I made the full size one as well.  

All of the hull panels for this 1:10 model of a CLC Skerry were laser cut from 1mm and 1.5mm ply. Using the plans for the full size boat I re-drew them on AutoCad and saved them on a flash drive. A friend in Marmaris (Turkey) is a sign maker and has a laser cutter in his shop. He usually charges me about one TL a minute of use and the panels took just a few minutes (it was awhile back - I've slept since then.   ) The boat was based on stitch and glue construction and I made the model the same way - you can see some of the copper wire stitches holding it together.
 

 
and the finished boat
 
 

 
I made the full size one as well.  

Thanks for looking in again David, George, Kees and Nils, and also to all those who hit the "like" button .
 
Spritsail Running Rigging
 
I've completed all the rigging on the Spritsail. This pic shows the Jib Guy Falls (dark inner lines) and the Yard Lifts (light outer lines). I'd rigged the forward parts of the Falls earlier, now they pass through the thimbles about 3/4 of the way in from the ends of the yard and end with a single block which has an eye stropped into it's ****. The tackle for the falls has a block and hook attached to the Cathead, and the fall passes through the block in the fall and ends at a timberhead.
 
The Lifts start at the yard cleats, pass through the thimbles at the end of the jibboom and tie off to a cleat on each side of the bow :
 

 
The Halyard has two single blocks, one with an eye and both with hooks. One hook is attached to the thimble in the centre of the yard, the other hooks to the eyebolt under the cap. The fall runs to a timberhead on the starboard side of the bow :
 

 
The previously attached Standing Lifts lash to another hook and thimble which go into the eyebolts either side of the cap :

 
The light colored lines in the shape of a "W" are the Braces. The standing parts of these are very long, as they start on the Forestay where the attach via a clove hitch in it's centre, through the blocks on each end of the brace pendants on the yard, up to the blocks under the mast top, down through the sheaves in the inner ends of the Bitts, and tie around the timberheads above them :
 

 

 

 

 
At this stage I haven't done any "faking down" (coiling the lines around the belaying points) of any of the lines. That will come when I've finished all the rigging.
 
 Danny

Thank you all for your continued encouragements, and likes
 
Igor that video is just amazing and humbling all at the same time, I don't think I have the patience for something as complex as that. 
 
Well I am back at the library as the home system is still not working, I am told I need to upgrade the service equipment that communicates with the tower!??
 
I have started the work on the valves now. first the wall of the water jacket needed to be relieved a little to clear the .100" coil springs that return the valves after the cams have lifted them.
 
I used a .125" Dremel mill after resetting the indexes so that I could follow the numbers for the drilling.
 

 

 

 
The valves are turned from some 1/8th drill rod /silver steel and the cutter reduced the diameter with a single cut I simply fed the material out of the collet and kept the cutting close to the collet. these two are the first test parts to get the dimensions correct, slide fits etc. and the machining sequences, this is the reason for all the extra bits in the scrap boxes.
 
The valves are .665 long and the stem is .062 the spring keeper section is .047" in diameter just visible on the shorter valve stem.
 

 
While I had the tool set up for cutting the bevel and reducing the diameter at the same time I used the same tool to turn the blank to make the valve seat cutter this is just a bit more complex because it needs to have the cutting faces cut in yet then will be hardened and tempered. It will be used in the drill press to cut the seats.
 

 
the next picture shows the valve pushed in and the flare is visible waiting for the body to be cut.
 

 
The last picture shows just some of the left over bits from all the work so far, in the little drawer marked Skipjack hardware.
I need to sort it all out into one of those plastic bead trays with the curved bottom compartments.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Thanks to all for the likes and comments
 
Today I mounted the waterpump with 4 00x90 hex bolts
 

 
The other milestone was to finally get the head mounted.
 

 
and made a spark plug wrench.
 

 

 

 
Michael

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 115 – Rudder, Miscellaneous
 
The first picture shows the last bit of work on the interior cabin deck detailing.
 

 
The curved seat/partition separates the cabin from the stern framing and leaves room for the rudder shaft.  All of this structural work aft of the partition will be hidden under poop decking.  As can be seen in a later picture, I decided to cover this rather austere seat with some upholstery.
 
With this in place the framing of the poop deck could be completed, including the fitting of the aft mooring bits and the boomkins shown in the next picture.
 

 
These are 12" x 12" timbers, tied together and into stout carlings that I reinforced with knees as shown.
 
The helm port was previously drilled through the framing but now had to be drilled through the bottom planking and sized for the 16" diameter rudder shaft.  After drilling a pilot hole, the center of the full hole could be set with a still wire through the gudgeons as shown below.
 

 
The hole was carefully enlarged with round files to fit the rudder.  The next picture shows the rudder hinges being fitted.
 

 
The gunstock shaped rudder rotates on the axis of the wire in the previous photo.  The top gudgeon has been added over the paint.  The hinges were fit one-at-a-time.  The masking tape is to keep the woodwork clean of metal dust.
 
The dry transfer stern lettering can be seen in this picture.  It is not yet finished.  The G, C and K need to be replaced and I am awaiting delivery of some more letters.  However, the picture below shows what it will look like.
 

 
I say what it "will" look like.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did a small amount of "photo shopping" on the three broken letters so I could use this picture.  Please excuse this.  The letters are quite small – 3/32" and 1/16".  When I get the replacement letters and successfully (hopefully) place them, the lettering will be sealed – probably with acrylic sanding sealer.  Right now they are easily scraped off.  I did a lot of that.
 
The next picture shows the fabrication of the iron rudder preventer in progress.
 

 
There are four parts – silver soldered.  It has rather long horns.  These have been rough shaped.  The strapping still has to be thinned down and drilled for bolts.
 
The blackened preventer can be seen below on the installed rudder.
 

 
The preventer was blackened with WinOx.  I have now disposed of all my remaining blue stuff in favor of this.
 
The rudder post in the next picture will be cut down later.
 

 
The mooring bits and boomkins are being shaped in this picture.  I found it easier to do this after installation – using rounded files.
 
The last picture shows the present state of the stern.
 

 
The poop deck is now ready for its two skylight coamings and decking.  Note that the portholes have been installed,   All of the work on the lower hull is now complete and it has been finished with wax.
 
Ed

Thank you Carl, David and George.
 
Figurehead
 
My figurehead arrived the other day . This was carved by Janos - a brilliant job as usual, and something I don't have much talent at .
 
The only thing I really had to do was fit it - this took the best part of 2 hours, as I had to CAREFULLY cut the slot between it's wings to fit around the stem :
 

 

 

 

 
All done .
 

 

 
 Danny

Great start Grant!
 
My first and only RC model boat, built for my grandson is an Aeronaut 'Diva' (it was cheaper!  ). I covered the bottom of the hull with thin aircraft fibreglass and lined every seam inside with epoxy thickened with microballoons  - not the 5 minute epoxy - with a good fillet around where the prop shaft exits the hull. despite quite a few hours in our swimming pool it has stayed completely dry inside. 
 
Fibreglassing isn't difficult but when you get to it, allow the fibreglass to sit on the hull at room temperature for a day or so and don't use a brush to spread the epoxy, use a thin, preferably rubber spatula. A brush will possibly open up the weave. 
 
But carry on, I'll be watching.  

I use the same Swann Morton handles and their No 11 and No 10A blades. I buy the blades in boxes of 100 (unsterilised). I had a lot of problems with rubbish handles for a while before I was able to get the Swann Morton kit.

I think this might be a milestone. We have a first glimpse of the hull lines!
 

 

 

 

 
A strip shows the keel line, it touches all frames and I think is as good as I could ever get it.
 

 

 

 
I also attempted to fit one of the planks. This is the lowest plank, it is rough fitted as it will touch the lower strake plywood panel.
 

 
My first impression is that the plank touches all frames effortlessly and the bevels are correct, the notches on the frames are also at the correct heights, I am amazed with the accuracy.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I added another plank, again it seems to fit ok. i am very happy that the two planks stay in contact throughout their length.
 

 

 
Now the more delicate work begins, too many bevels and plank overlaps to tackle!

Thank you Michael,
for me is an honor to be complimented of outstanding master.
It was nice to build she .. when I think of making and I want to make a new Bluenose (perhaps Bluenose II)).
 
Thank you Julian and Jan-Willem, I follow your Bluenose with pleasure.
 
Thank you Yambo,
...in our country is full of colors and options.
I used the most simple primer for metal, matt (red oxide). After coating, lightly I polished with fine metal shavings (a sponge ??). The same kind of color is available in acrylic or oil ...
(for example) Rewell Color for modellers can be bought throughout Europe and the world ...
I checked on Ebay.de, sent Revell colors in your country but ...  is expensive.
I think you'll find color in store for builders, perhaps art shop or maybe to find a painting studio .. that's no "special" color. My Pen Duick is painted with car color ...
Let me know if you need more help from me.
 
 
Best regards, Matija.