Dziadeczek
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Parallel blade to the fence is critical, however long time ago I learnt a trick from someone from the defunct now forum, Seaways Ships in Scale, that even better is when you set the blade every slightly out of being parallel, in such a way, that the distal end (from the operator's point of view) of the blade - the one that comes out and up from the table, is a tiny bit further away from the fence than the proximal (closer to the operator's site) end of the blade - the one that goes down under the table. That way you'll avoid squeezing the wood between the blade and the fence, and hence - the burnt marks. How to do it simply and quickly? Place a strip of paper in between the proximal end of a blade and the fence and another strip between the distal end and the fence. Bring the fence close to the blade all the way, so that it touches the paper. If you set the blade as mentioned above, the proximal strip is now tightly wedged between the blade and the fence and if you forcibly try to remove it, it tears. However, the distal strip still can be removed easily without tearing. The blade is now ready for cutting the wood. Another thought - for ripping the wood, it is best not to use a slitting blade, but rather a blade with larger teeth, preferably with carbide tips (very sharp). -
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Help with depicting extra line on bitts
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
French 64 Gun Ship 1729 by Jeronimo - 1/48 scale
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Endurance by MarcinPrzybys - OcCre - 1/70 scale - upgrade
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I don't think it is necessary to soak everything in machine oil, so that when the chuck spins in the lathe, droplets of oil sprinkle everywhere! Just light oiling will suffice. -
Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Dziadeczek replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Also, there is a drawing by Ben Lankford from Model Shipways, that shows this detail - he calls it "iron fitting", which is a kind of a metal fork that is attached to a rod bolted to this breasthook, the rod - looks like, it has a hole drilled through it with a pin holding everything together, so it pivots up and down - see attached diagram and the pic (greatly enlarged).
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I found this video on the YouTube. Activate English subtitles, if you don't speak Russian. -
Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is the original Sherline instruction on how to disassemble and reassemble the reversible jaws from a 4 jaw chuck (which I would encourage you to obtain from Proxxon in addition to your 3 jaw chuck, because in certain situations you'll need the 4 jaw chuck to be able to machine, for instance a square or octagonal stock, or similar...). I have both of them for my Sherline lathe. Perhaps the situation with the Proxxon chuck is similar with the one from Sherline?
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Those numbers refer not only to the correct placements of the jaws in the chuck, but also the proper sequence of reassembling them. Start with jaw 1 by placing it in the chuck in the place marked as 1 and slowly turn the chuck until the jaw engages. Immediately after, place jaw 2 in its place marked as 2 and proceede with turning the chuck until jaw 2 engages (jaw 1 will in the meantime engage further on). Finish with jaw 3 in the same manner. Otherwise, all jaws will sit in the chuck incorrectly and too tight! At least, that's the situation with a chuck from the Sherline lathe. (I would spray WD 40 for the jaws and the chuck to loosen and remove grime in crevasses before reassembling them and then lubricating everything slightly). -
I recently finished a large (!) case for my huge (1:48) model of a French 74 guns 1780, building it 'El cheapo', from common materials from the internet, Home Depot and such... I used plexiglass rather than ordinary glass - for obvious reasons. The pic shows the whole thing in a raw, unfinished state, however in the meantime I managed to finish (stain & polyurethane) it. Without much research, I obtained a gallon of oil-based poly and then I faced difficulties getting mineral spirits to make a wipe on poly from it. It turned out that some time ago California banned mineral spirits altogether. Fortunately, I had some old supplies of this stuff, but used them quickly, so reluctantly had to get some paint thinner (not the same stuff as mineral spirits!) and used it to thin the rest of my poly. The finish did not turn out as I planned, but I guess, it is good enough... Now I am waiting for my son to come home for the holidays, to help me to transport this dinosaur from my workshop to the case in the living room and protect it from the dust and "elements", so to speak... 🤥
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Excelllent! 😲 Could I trouble you to repost this pic again, in a bigger resolution, say 300dpi, please? I use your pics for my desktop background and, even though I enlarged this pic, it now shows some grain, unfortunately. If you show it in larger resolution (original?), the quality should be noticeably better, I hope. Thanks again! Thomas
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Bomb Vessel Granado by Jorez de Saint Nazaire (François) - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64
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An easy (fairly) way to make your own shaving planes
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It is best to first build yourself a plank holding (clamping) jig, where you wedge your plank vertically (after you mark in pencil the contour of the plank) and then you proceed to shape (shave) the edge of this plank almost to the pencil line and finish it with a piece of wooden block with sandpaper glued to it. See the pic. A- base from wood clamped to a table B- plywood rectangle glued to the base C- plywood triangle glued to the base D- another plywood triangle, loose, used for clamping the plank E- shaving plane F- plank wedged vertically between B and D It is advisable to do two corresponding planks at the same time, wedged in this holding jig, firstly because one plank will go on the one side of the hull and the other one will go to the opposite side; ideally they should therefore be identical, provided that your hull is perfectly symmetrical... Also - secondly, it will speed up the time of shaving the contour for all planks... For the shaving process I found out that the best planes are the mini-Ibex planes used by luthiers, those tiny ones held in fingers - see attached pic. Those provides max precision and control of the process. They are quite pricey, but sometimes you can get used ones on Ebay for much cheaper. I got mine many years ago for 5$ from a local vendor in one model exhibit/show...
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If you pre-bend your plank off the model, frequently checking its shape (until it almost fits the shape of the hull in place it belongs), you'll hardly need ANY clamps! Soak your planks in luke warm water for a few minutes and with an electric plank bender. or a modified soldering iron (see the pic) try to heat bend the plank, frequently checking its shape. Then place small drops of Titebond glue on the bulkhead edges touching the plank and along the one edge of your plank to glue it to the neighboring plank already installed. I only use ordinary tailor's pins to keep the plank in place, NO pushing force is needed. And I push the pins not through the plank, but rather along its edge to avoid holes in the plank after pins are removed (after the glue dries) - see the pics.
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Help with depicting extra line on bitts
Dziadeczek replied to usedtosail's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Here is a pic of what these details look like on the "Surprise" in San Diego, although I am not sure if these are bitts or fife rails, since several belaying pins are visible through the beams...
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Beginner - Rigging Tools
Dziadeczek replied to nheather's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
You mean, something like those? I made them from large size needles (from "Joans" or similar places...) and made appropriate cuts with a Dremel tool and cut off wheel. For handles I used turned dowels, but you might also use handles from old artist's brushes. Or you might be able to purchase them factory made from places like Micro Mark... These are very helpful when you work on rigging and cannot reach the spots with your fingers through a thick spiderweb of other ropes that you might damage in the process. They help you with reaching those spots, bringing ropes (lines) towards you or taking them away from you, or even for such tasks like attaching ropes to belaying pins, kevels, bitts, or similar. Without them I wouldn't have been able to do all those tasks for my French double decker of 1780 from Boudriot, I finished last winter.
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Bending plywood is very difficult, if not impossible, even when you soak the wood and heat bend it! Plywood is glued from several thin layers of wood (laminated) and this prevents it from bending, the piece tends to spring back to former shape. Instead, you might try to use a solid wood piece, soak it in lukeworm water for a few minutes - half hour and using a soldering iron set to ~ half heat, press it to the wood and try to bend it at the same time, making sure you do not scorch/burn the wood. You might repeat it several times until you get desired shape. Good luck, Thomas PS: About this fairing of the hull (bulkheads) before planking, I found such a pic, I don't remember where it came from, but it shows the general principle.
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Also, I recommend "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld.
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