Dziadeczek
-
Posts
585 -
Joined
-
Last visited
5 Followers
Recent Profile Visitors
5,490 profile views
-
thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
-
Freebird reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
-
Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
-
Chuck reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
-
Beckmann reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
-
Wow! Those pins are BEAUTIES! Pity that you did not begin making them a year ago, when I needed them for my model. Unable to locate appropriate pins in 1:48, I had to turn them myself on my Sherline from bamboo skewers/toothpics for strength, using a special brass former I prepared before. They ended up acceptable, though they are far from yours! Congrats, Thomas
-
Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic:
Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
-
Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
Dziadeczek replied to OldeManToad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I built my first ship model more than 30 years ago - Billing Boats "Norske Love" only with Elmer's Glue All white glue and today it sits there, still intact. My latest, scratched French 74 guns after Boudriot, I built using Titebond Original. I'll let you know after another 30 years. 😁 I think, both are good for wood, at least for our purposes. Titebond II and III are for waterproof applications, II - for water resistant and III - for waterproof (if you are building a floating model, for RC etc.) -
Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)
-
Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Battle of Waterloo Attack on La Haye Sainte Farm by Old Collingwood - 1/56 (28mm)
-
Y.T. reacted to a post in a topic:
Wood for bulkheads?
-
Wood for bulkheads?
Dziadeczek replied to CPDDET's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I don't know much about the Hemingway's Pilar yacht, but in my opinion, if you intend to completely cover the hull with planking, either wood will be OK. Especially, good quality plywood, like Baltic plywood has great stability. If, however, you want to only partially plank your hull (Dockyard style model or similar), you do not want to show the layered edges of your bulkheads made from plywood, and in this case - use solid wood, any of the hard fruit woods will suffice, eg. cherry, apple, pear, plum, but also maple, birch, beech, etc. If your pockets are sufficiently deep, go full blast for boxwood or even some, more exotic species, peroba, etc. -
Archi reacted to a post in a topic:
American Ship Models * And How to Build Them
-
dupuytren's contracture treatment - Google Search
-
I heard there is non-surgical treatment for this as well...
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
USS St. Louis (CL-20) by highlanderburial - FINISHED - 1/200 scale - 3d Print and 1/150 Restoration
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
LA CREOLE/ LA GUADELOUPE by matiz - 1:48 - by Tiziano Mainardi from Boudriot plans
-
Do this: Make sure the strip lays on the entire width of the edge of each bulkhead. If not, sand this edge a little more until flush. To help determine further, mark (smear) the bulkhead's edge with a pencil and see that this marking disappears after sanding. Or leave laser burns there intact and use them as your guide instead of pencil marks...
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
ALFRED by schooner - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96 - Continental Navy Frigate
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
IJN Fuso 1944 by wieslaw_ - Halinski - 1/200 - CARD - with 3D print
-
An exquisite workmanship! I regularly see your updates on the Polish Koga forum. Everybody, keep in mind that this is a paper (mostly) model! Hats off! Thomas
-
Tiziano's fabulous model was an inspiration for my French 74 guns 1:48 I finished a year ago. With everything (masting and rigging) it took me almost 20 years to build it! (But then, I am a slow builder...). 😁
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
TRE KRONER 1742 by Beckmann - 3"/8' scale - Transom-Model
-
Were pintles and gudgeons of the rudder also covered with this "white stuff", or left unpainted? I have seen models with both. Thomas
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Sovereign of the Seas by 72Nova - Airfix - PLASTIC
-
Fractal vise on kickstarter
Dziadeczek replied to DavidG's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A forgotten relic with a modern price. -
I meant to say, you did not do the spiling process properly - your planks look rectangular all the way (the same width along their entire lengths), so sooner or later you run out of space for them on the hull and ended up with those triangular empty spaces... Also, in order for your planks to fit at the bow and the stern, you have to either pre-shape them off the model (using for instance cardboard templates, or edge-bend them to follow the curve in those spaces. Like this modeler did here (post # 26 in this link - check his video).
-
chuck passaro planking - YouTube
-
I am in the middle of building my own version of a planetary ropewalk, (in addition to my old standard ropewalk I built about 30 years ago). I heard that this type of a ropewalk has several issues in terms of evenly twisting of ropes and tension of strands that have to be carefully adjusted. I'll let you know how my own behaves, after I finish it. Thomas
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
-
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
-
please read my two previous posts As I mentioned, when I twist a 4 stranded rope (with no core), sometimes the strands jump over others, sometimes the twists are a bit irregular, uneven, in places individual strands collapse into this empty space in the center of the rope - end result, the rope looks bad. I am trying to improve the overall results, and I am slowly inching toward my goal, but I think I have to fill this empty space with a core to make the rope even. I don't know if I will be able to use a thin wire for that, or just a thinner 5th strand mounted in the center. I will try both. In the meantime, I attach a pic with two ropes I made today from 4 strands each with no core. Their thickness is about 1 mm (1/64 inch). I used some cheap cotton I had handy at the moment. Back to the drawing board... 🤔
-
My ropewalk has the possibility to twist 4 stranded ropes (as well as 3 stranded ones) and I tried many times to twist 3 and/or 4 stranded ropes on it. The 3 stranded ones come perfect, but the 4 stranded not so - for the above mentioned reason. So, after drilling a center hole through the cone (where the grooves meet) and inserting a thin wire through it, I noticed that such a 4 str. rope comes very ugly - the strands get excessively twisted, form many small knots before they decide to twist around each other to form a rope. At the same time, the central core (wire) wants to rotate in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of all strands, but because it is only loosely inserted in between the strands, this rotation gets uneven and in bursts. So, the whole rope comes out terrible. There has to be a different, perfect way of suspending the core wire which has to be very straight, like all thread strands, and only than the whole thing can form a rope. The reason I wanted to make such a rope (with a center wire) is, that the wire core would allow me to form more natural ways of sagging of certain ropes on my models rather than all of them stretched straight...
Our Emblem ®
