Dziadeczek
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catopower reacted to a post in a topic:
Photo Etching - do it yourself
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
HMB Endeavour by Maciek - Caldercraft - 1/64
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Sovereign Of The Seas by firdajan - 1:96 - CARD
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FrankWouts reacted to a post in a topic:
French 74-gun ship by matiz - scale 1:56 - Tiziano Mainardi
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FrankWouts reacted to a post in a topic:
French 74-gun ship by matiz - scale 1:56 - Tiziano Mainardi
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FrankWouts reacted to a post in a topic:
French 74-gun ship by matiz - scale 1:56 - Tiziano Mainardi
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Photo etch suppliers
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Photo etch suppliers
Dziadeczek replied to Dr PR's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Here are my struggles with photoetching (that in the end, turned out successfully): Photo Etching - do it yourself - Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings - Model Ship World™ -
I follow the method described once by Fr. Bill Romero. First prepare yourself the sides of your ladder, then prepare the steps. Assemble temporarily the sides like it's shown on the pic, in the shape of a letter "A" (at an angle that is twice the angle between your ladder and the side of your model), placing a drop of white glue at the tops of the sides. Place drops of glue at the bottoms of the sides and temporarily glue them to the horizontal piece, shown here as "scrap wood". Place your 'triangle' on the table of your miniature table saw (Preac, Proxxon, or like), the side with "scrap wood" facing the fence of your saw and make slits in the sides to the depth equaled half the thickness of your sides. Use an appropriate spacer to make subsequent slits to make sure your slits are equally distanced to each other. Now disassemble the sides from "scrap wood" and from each other. Glue all steps into the slits in one side of your ladder and after the glue dries, glue them to the other side. Alternatively, instead of cutting slits in the sides, glue to them equal size 'rhombs' (parallelograms) of the same piece of wood as your sides, making sure you keep spaces for your sides to be glued in later on. - drawing A. (Don't mind the numbers on the scan - they refer to his model only).
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I always glue ONE plank interchangeably on each side of a hull at a time and proceed the same for the remainder of planks. I prebend the wet planks off the model so that they almost fit the shape of the hull, nothing forceful! I only place ONE layer of planks, no second coats necessary.
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Amazon has several draw plates, their prices ranging from inexpensive to quite pricey. Notice that the holes in the plates are drilled not simply through, but their profile is conical. Which means that on one side of the plate each hole is bigger (base of the cone) and on the other side it is smaller (apex of the cone). The same plate can be used for pulling through a soft metal wire, as well as drawing wood. You insert a wire from the base side (larger hole) of the plate and pull it through the apex (smaller hole). With wood you do it from the opposite side. In other words, to make a thinner wire, you squeeze it through the plate, but with wood, you shave it (apex side has sharp edges). From my own practical experience with a draw plate, the best wood is prewetted bamboo (skewers from grocery stores), because bamboo has long and strong fibres that can withstand pulling with forceps. Other wood tends to break more easily. If you want to use something other than bamboo woods, like fruitwoods, or boxwood or similar for your treenails, use rather treenail cutters from Vanda Lay Ind. - he used to make them in 3 sizes, later on only 2 and finally, as far as I know, stopped making them altogether. Possibly you can still get this gadget on Ebay or similar sources.
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Jewerly equipment suppliers have various draw plates.
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Congratulations on such an impressive model! Tomasz
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Parallel blade to the fence is critical, however long time ago I learnt a trick from someone from the defunct now forum, Seaways Ships in Scale, that even better is when you set the blade every slightly out of being parallel, in such a way, that the distal end (from the operator's point of view) of the blade - the one that comes out and up from the table, is a tiny bit further away from the fence than the proximal (closer to the operator's site) end of the blade - the one that goes down under the table. That way you'll avoid squeezing the wood between the blade and the fence, and hence - the burnt marks. How to do it simply and quickly? Place a strip of paper in between the proximal end of a blade and the fence and another strip between the distal end and the fence. Bring the fence close to the blade all the way, so that it touches the paper. If you set the blade as mentioned above, the proximal strip is now tightly wedged between the blade and the fence and if you forcibly try to remove it, it tears. However, the distal strip still can be removed easily without tearing. The blade is now ready for cutting the wood. Another thought - for ripping the wood, it is best not to use a slitting blade, but rather a blade with larger teeth, preferably with carbide tips (very sharp).
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
French 64 Gun Ship 1729 by Jeronimo - 1/48 scale
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Endurance by MarcinPrzybys - OcCre - 1/70 scale - upgrade
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I don't think it is necessary to soak everything in machine oil, so that when the chuck spins in the lathe, droplets of oil sprinkle everywhere! Just light oiling will suffice. -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Dziadeczek replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Also, there is a drawing by Ben Lankford from Model Shipways, that shows this detail - he calls it "iron fitting", which is a kind of a metal fork that is attached to a rod bolted to this breasthook, the rod - looks like, it has a hole drilled through it with a pin holding everything together, so it pivots up and down - see attached diagram and the pic (greatly enlarged).
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I found this video on the YouTube. Activate English subtitles, if you don't speak Russian. -
Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is the original Sherline instruction on how to disassemble and reassemble the reversible jaws from a 4 jaw chuck (which I would encourage you to obtain from Proxxon in addition to your 3 jaw chuck, because in certain situations you'll need the 4 jaw chuck to be able to machine, for instance a square or octagonal stock, or similar...). I have both of them for my Sherline lathe. Perhaps the situation with the Proxxon chuck is similar with the one from Sherline?
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Proxxon DB250 3 Jaw Chuck
Dziadeczek replied to mrcc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Those numbers refer not only to the correct placements of the jaws in the chuck, but also the proper sequence of reassembling them. Start with jaw 1 by placing it in the chuck in the place marked as 1 and slowly turn the chuck until the jaw engages. Immediately after, place jaw 2 in its place marked as 2 and proceede with turning the chuck until jaw 2 engages (jaw 1 will in the meantime engage further on). Finish with jaw 3 in the same manner. Otherwise, all jaws will sit in the chuck incorrectly and too tight! At least, that's the situation with a chuck from the Sherline lathe. (I would spray WD 40 for the jaws and the chuck to loosen and remove grime in crevasses before reassembling them and then lubricating everything slightly). -
I recently finished a large (!) case for my huge (1:48) model of a French 74 guns 1780, building it 'El cheapo', from common materials from the internet, Home Depot and such... I used plexiglass rather than ordinary glass - for obvious reasons. The pic shows the whole thing in a raw, unfinished state, however in the meantime I managed to finish (stain & polyurethane) it. Without much research, I obtained a gallon of oil-based poly and then I faced difficulties getting mineral spirits to make a wipe on poly from it. It turned out that some time ago California banned mineral spirits altogether. Fortunately, I had some old supplies of this stuff, but used them quickly, so reluctantly had to get some paint thinner (not the same stuff as mineral spirits!) and used it to thin the rest of my poly. The finish did not turn out as I planned, but I guess, it is good enough... Now I am waiting for my son to come home for the holidays, to help me to transport this dinosaur from my workshop to the case in the living room and protect it from the dust and "elements", so to speak... 🤥
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Excelllent! 😲 Could I trouble you to repost this pic again, in a bigger resolution, say 300dpi, please? I use your pics for my desktop background and, even though I enlarged this pic, it now shows some grain, unfortunately. If you show it in larger resolution (original?), the quality should be noticeably better, I hope. Thanks again! Thomas
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Bomb Vessel Granado by Jorez de Saint Nazaire (François) - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64
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An easy (fairly) way to make your own shaving planes
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