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Dziadeczek

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About Dziadeczek

  • Birthday 07/05/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Glendale, CA. USA
  • Interests
    shipmodeling, photography, music

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  1. What is the website your figurines come from? I am looking for similar figurines of French sailors of 18 century for my model of the 74 guns ship (from Boudriot) in the scale 1:48 and cannot locate any suitable ANYWHERE! Thanks! Thomas
  2. I always use holly for my decks - it gives this very light, almost eggshell color. Once I used beech, I remember - for its speckled texture, perfectly imitating oak (in scale). Boxwood is also OK (pricey, though) It depends on how you intend to show your decks, if you want them to look new, use holly, if darker, use other fruit woods, pear or even apple... You can see on the attached pics how my decks look like next to cherry hull planking, on my recently finished model of the French 74 gunner of 1780 (from Boudriot). For finish, I use one layer of Danish oil, applied with a brush and let it dry (but tung is also OK). It will slightly darken and accentuate the color of the wood, but after a while it will nicely fade.
  3. Does anyone know a US distributor of the Polish "Shipyard" cardboard ship models? Thomas
  4. From my personal observations of various ships, I can say that in the real world the shipwrights were less rigorous to adhere to a strict 3 or 4 butt shifts, like it is shown in various books. They were using, what was available at the moment in their yards, at the same time trying to save on the wood. So, rarely you can see these strict patterns in the real ships. In my opinion, you can safely butt shift your planks observing rather loosely this 4 butt shift, if you want it (also, the bigger the ship, the bigger the shift, e.g. the Victory and alike would have a 4-butt shifts, perhaps the Constitution 3 butt shifts , a smaller frigate or a brig 2 butt shifts, and so on... PS: Also, check out this discussion:
  5. You made them the right way. Gratings consist of two different strips of wood. Thicker ledges ('toothed' ones) and thinner battens placed in these teeth. Important thing to remember is that the ledges should run athwartship (from bulwark to bulwark) and the battens should run parallel to the long axis of the hull, - as seen from the top, and not the opposite way. Here is a short article on the topic: Improving Basic Details – Getting the Gratings Right | Ship Modeler I once took a pic of the underside of the USS Constitution's gratings, where you can clearly see this "gaps" you are referring to... Thomas
  6. Awesome and exciting project! Make sure though that you have enough room in your house to display the model! Just because your garage is big enough doesn't necessarily mean that there is enough place in your living room to house this monster! I made a similar error deciding to build a French 74 gunner 1780 after J. Boudriot, in the scale 1:48. Just enough room in my workshop, but after nearly 20 years of fiddling with it (I am a v. slow builder!) I found out that my living room is barely big enough to display this monstrosity! Also, such a scale almost demands to build everything nearly exactly to the original, no simplifications and omissions! The question is, do you have enough time and interest (and appropriate materials) to persevere to the end? It would be almost a tragedy to stop the construction somewhere in the middle due to overwhelming difficulties with obtaining materials and simply due to loosing interest and burning out... I keep my fingers crossed for you! Thomas
  7. Wow! How did you waterproof your models? Thomas
  8. Thanks. It probably is called in Polish "płyta pilśniowa" - compressed wood dust...
  9. Is this wood or cardboard? (The edges are so perfectly cut, sharp and even, that it is difficult to tell the difference...)
  10. After my hip replacement 6 years ago, I was recovering from this trauma for 6 weeks, doing a lot of physiotherapy and exercises and swallowing tylenol. One day, I was able to walk for 1/4 mile without a cane and the following day I went shopping with my wife! Patience!!! Everything will be OK!!! Thomas PS: If anybody faces the prospect of hip replacement, I think that you should rely on an orthopedist that specializes in knee/hip replacements ONLY! These people have enormous experience (they do 4 or 5 of them daily!) and know what they are doing, unlike "regular" orthopedists, which do everything and nothing! Experience counts, like in shipmodeling! 😁 The 'anterior approach' for hip replacement offers less complications and faster recovery, by the way...
  11. Michael Kammerlander long time ago gave detailed instructions on how to easily bend as well as edge bend wooden strips for planking, using luke warm water and his specially designed hot iron (or easily modified regular soldering iron). There is no need for boiling water, ammonia and some complicated gadgets to accomplish this! The whole thing is bloody EASY!!! His article was printed in a long defunct now magazine "Ship in Scale". (I could theoretically scan those pages for anyone interested, but here is a short video on how it is done by Mr. Kammerlander himself). (the video is lousy quality wise, and he is talking German, but you'll get the gist...).
  12. Sweet! That full size lathe takes awful amount of space in your small workshop. Besides, it won't be very useful for small size, precise works for shipmodeling etc,; replace it with something smaller, IMHO. Whatever is available in the UK..., Sherline, Taig, Proxxon...
  13. IMHO garboard plank should end much shorter, approx. where the red arrow points. From there the rest of the planks should run more or less like the red lines show (do precise spiling there). (You might have to install a stealer or two, if necessary).
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