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Dziadeczek
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
HMB Endeavour by Maciek - Caldercraft - 1/64
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aaronc reacted to a post in a topic:
Case or no case?
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PeteCo reacted to a post in a topic:
Shrouds and Ratlines
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Wood Plank Benders - Rounding
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MintGum reacted to a post in a topic:
Wood Plank Benders - Rounding
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Wood Plank Benders - Rounding
Dziadeczek replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My homemade plank heat-bending iron is a modified Weller 80 Watts 110 Volts soldering iron, with a fashioned head from brass, I use for many years (~ 30+). You can obtain a brass rod of the same or very similar thickness as the rod that comes with the iron, shape its end in an angle, replace it in your iron and use it for your plank bending, or mount on it a crescent shaped head also from brass (alternatively from aluminum). Both the rod and the disc (later on shaped to a crescent by you) can be obtained from specialty shops dealing with industrial metals, or from some scrap metals. Probably 60 Watts iron would be still OK, I think... Remember you have to have temps of about 1/3 less than for soldering, otherwise there is a danger of burning the planks instead of bending them.
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Innocraftsman Mill
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Wood Plank Benders - Edge Bending
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barkeater reacted to a post in a topic:
Wood Plank Benders - Edge Bending
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Wood Plank Benders - Edge Bending
Dziadeczek replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I keep posting here this video over and over - this is Gebhard Kammerlander, a German modelmaker and kit manufacturer, who many years ago wrote an article on bending woods in the now defunct magazine "Ships in Scale". If you go down the video about 2/3rds length (or about 3 min. 15 sec), you will see what can be done bending woods sideways as well. All this is done with a standard modelmaker hot bending iron available online, or a modified soldering iron with a special head fashioned from brass or aluminum. I checked his technique - works like a charm! No special jigs required, no hot teakettles, no hot lightbulbs or hair curling irons, etc! I also put together a heat control unit from an electrical dimmer (nondigital) I use with my soldering iron, since standard heat for soldering is a bit too hot and you might burn your wood accidentally. Easy does it!!! -
Help to assemble AMATI chain plate 4090/05
Dziadeczek replied to Johnny Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I would first put a deadeye into the loop and then, with a pair of fine long nose pliers try to wiggle the unit into the holes of the chainplate, one end at a time. Trim the ends flush afterwards. -
Cant find this simple chainplate
Dziadeczek replied to Johnny Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Can't you make your own from black annealed wire? Should be fairly simple and easy... -
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
L'Artésien 1764 by Cpt.Barbossa - 1:48 - 64-gun ship from plans by Jacques Fichant
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Triton by Jerzy
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This is this detail on the replica of the "San Salvador" in San Diego, seen from the deck.
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I would not use CA glue to reinforce the ratline knots, but rather diluted white PVA glue, which dries invisible and doesn't crumble away after some years, like CA.
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Tool to Take Measurement Inside of a Hull
Dziadeczek replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I found this somewhere in the abyss of my external drive. (Unfortunately, I don't remember who the author is and where it was originally posted...) Hope this helps, Thomas
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It looks like a beefier vertical drill press to me, rather than a mill, otherwise how do you attach your workpiece to the flat table, to mill it? I have once bought from the Sherline factory for my Sherline mill, this "sensitive drilling attachment" to drill hundreds of holes in my blocks I made for my "Frenchie", because I was already developing early signs of carpal tunnel syndrome constantly cranking the mill up and down manually. 😏 The attachment works like a charm, BTW!!! (Pity, because in the meantime, I had already drilled most of my holes before getting this attachment...) Thomas PS: You can buy such an attachment not just for the Sherline mill, but there exist many drilling attachments designed for many different mills, just search the net!
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Repurposing Pool Cue Lathes?
Dziadeczek replied to Rich Sloop's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Undoubtedly, manually shaping of the masts/spars from square to round, is the more authentic method, but I always use my old Sherline long bed lathe for this task. Also, I use a Steady Rest to prevent wood deflection during turning. Still, for my French 74 1:48 by Boudriot, for some very long spars, I had to turn them in halves, drill holes in their ends and connect them together with a dowel & glue. You cannot see the joint now. Using a lathe is quite faster and more accurate than doing it manually, I think. In the end, it is a matter of personal preference... 🤔 -
12 to 14 minimum.
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Splendid little model, very well done, considering the clinker planking! 👍 I only would recommend that for your rigging, try to get a little tighter twist of the yarns (threads)...
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This is a front and a back cover of a museum guide, stitched together.
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Keeping my fingers crossed for you!!! 😀
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What is the projected price of the HMS Surprise kit?
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My introduction on Model Ship World
Dziadeczek replied to ANDY GRAY's topic in New member Introductions
I seem to remember that Doris was building one of her spectacular models with lighting inside (was it the SotS or the Royal Katherine?). Check out the old posts of her and find out. Maybe you'll find your answers there?
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