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Dziadeczek
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
LE CENTAURE 1783 by Jeronimo
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I managed to 'color' this image (texturize) in Meshy6 - that's how far I was allowed to go there free of charge.
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CPDDET reacted to a post in a topic:
Interior boards - Cut-away "Santisima Trinidad"
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bruce d reacted to a post in a topic:
Interior boards - Cut-away "Santisima Trinidad"
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Clear shellac or Danish oil - my choices. Home centers like Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware, or so...
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
D7E Bulldozer by RGL - FINISHED - Hobby link - 1/35 - 3D-printed
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Vought SB2U Vindicator by ccoyle - FINISHED - Kartonowa Kolekcja - 1/33 - CARD
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I don't have an answer to your question, but I have seen once such cardboard tubes for storing extra wood strips and similar, in the local Channel Islands Maritime Museum in Oxnard, S. California - as a part of a display of a workshop of the late modeler Ed Marple.
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I played a little with this software and, for the experiment's sake I uploaded a drawing of a French naval officer from Mr. Boudriot's book on the 74 gun ship to see, what would develop... I was pleasantly surprised to find out that their 3D rendition turned out sooo good! - see the pic (it is only a 2D screenshot from a full 3D conversion, which turned out nearly perfectly, certainly good enough for me! I am thinking about 3D printing of a dozen or so small figurines (about 3.5 - 4 cm long, which is about 1.5 in.) to populate my 74 gun ship model I recently finished building. The problem with this free version of Meshy 6, I see, is that you can only upload your pic (photo or drawing) and convert it into a 3D sculpture, but you cannot further download this 3D sculpture elsewhere, to print it. To do that, you'd have to sign in for it and pay a minimum 8 dollars/month for a subscription (despite the statement from Meshy, that you can do it for a free trial - just to see how it goes (and if it satisfies you, then you can pay them and do your projects). So, that is this limitation..., unless I missed something.. 🤔
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
LE CENTAURE 1783 by Jeronimo
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Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
18th Century Longboat by Desertanimal - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 build using boxwood
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L'Ambitieux by Nek0 - Altaya
Dziadeczek replied to Nek0's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
What is the website your figurines come from? I am looking for similar figurines of French sailors of 18 century for my model of the 74 guns ship (from Boudriot) in the scale 1:48 and cannot locate any suitable ANYWHERE! Thanks! Thomas -
Dziadeczek reacted to a post in a topic:
Vought SB2U Vindicator by ccoyle - FINISHED - Kartonowa Kolekcja - 1/33 - CARD
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Painting means painting...
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I always use holly for my decks - it gives this very light, almost eggshell color. Once I used beech, I remember - for its speckled texture, perfectly imitating oak (in scale). Boxwood is also OK (pricey, though) It depends on how you intend to show your decks, if you want them to look new, use holly, if darker, use other fruit woods, pear or even apple... You can see on the attached pics how my decks look like next to cherry hull planking, on my recently finished model of the French 74 gunner of 1780 (from Boudriot). For finish, I use one layer of Danish oil, applied with a brush and let it dry (but tung is also OK). It will slightly darken and accentuate the color of the wood, but after a while it will nicely fade.
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Does anyone know a US distributor of the Polish "Shipyard" cardboard ship models? Thomas
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Hull planking
Dziadeczek replied to The Bitter End's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
From my personal observations of various ships, I can say that in the real world the shipwrights were less rigorous to adhere to a strict 3 or 4 butt shifts, like it is shown in various books. They were using, what was available at the moment in their yards, at the same time trying to save on the wood. So, rarely you can see these strict patterns in the real ships. In my opinion, you can safely butt shift your planks observing rather loosely this 4 butt shift, if you want it (also, the bigger the ship, the bigger the shift, e.g. the Victory and alike would have a 4-butt shifts, perhaps the Constitution 3 butt shifts , a smaller frigate or a brig 2 butt shifts, and so on... PS: Also, check out this discussion: -
You made them the right way. Gratings consist of two different strips of wood. Thicker ledges ('toothed' ones) and thinner battens placed in these teeth. Important thing to remember is that the ledges should run athwartship (from bulwark to bulwark) and the battens should run parallel to the long axis of the hull, - as seen from the top, and not the opposite way. Here is a short article on the topic: Improving Basic Details – Getting the Gratings Right | Ship Modeler I once took a pic of the underside of the USS Constitution's gratings, where you can clearly see this "gaps" you are referring to... Thomas
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Awesome and exciting project! Make sure though that you have enough room in your house to display the model! Just because your garage is big enough doesn't necessarily mean that there is enough place in your living room to house this monster! I made a similar error deciding to build a French 74 gunner 1780 after J. Boudriot, in the scale 1:48. Just enough room in my workshop, but after nearly 20 years of fiddling with it (I am a v. slow builder!) I found out that my living room is barely big enough to display this monstrosity! Also, such a scale almost demands to build everything nearly exactly to the original, no simplifications and omissions! The question is, do you have enough time and interest (and appropriate materials) to persevere to the end? It would be almost a tragedy to stop the construction somewhere in the middle due to overwhelming difficulties with obtaining materials and simply due to loosing interest and burning out... I keep my fingers crossed for you! Thomas
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Wow! How did you waterproof your models? Thomas
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Thanks. It probably is called in Polish "płyta pilśniowa" - compressed wood dust...
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Is this wood or cardboard? (The edges are so perfectly cut, sharp and even, that it is difficult to tell the difference...)
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