Dziadeczek

This is a corner of a sail from the "Star of India" in San Diego.

This is a corner of a sail from the "Star of India" in San Diego.

This is a corner of a sail from the "Star of India" in San Diego.

I am sure there are many different ways to do it and some members will explain their techniques, but I do it in the following faschion:
I use a very thin cotton fabric for my sails, instead of silkspan. I found it in my local fabric store  (www.moodfabrics,com)  a fabric known as cotton muslin, already factory coloured into a nice cream (eggshell) color - perfect for sails, so I don't need to color it by myself. It is used primarilly for linings for suits or similar. But my model is in 1:48 scale, so this muslin is barely thin enough for my sails. It might be too thick for your model though, if your scale is smaller.
I wanted to show all sewn details of my sails, and I feared that silkspan, being soooo thin and delicate, would not allow this...
 
After preparing my sails in the traditional way, I attach (glue) to their edges a bolt rope, making sure that it isn't attached to the edge of a sail, but instead it lays ON the edge, on the AFT side of the sail. After the glue (white glue like Elmer's),  slightly diluted with water, has dried, I sew the rope with a very thin needle and thin thread of almost the same (only slightly darker) color that the sail itself, like on the attached pic. I found out that if I leave the rope only glued there, it has a tendency to split from the sail, if you manipulate it with your fingers. Sewing it, reinforces the bond and secures it.
It is an extremely tedious and time consuming process (if you think, tying ratlines is tedious, think again!), I work with magnifier Optivisor and have a thimble on my finger to push the needle through the slightly stiffened (by glue) fabric. I place the sail on a rubber mat, like yours, but on top of that mat I place a piece of ordinary cardboard and only then I place my sail on top of it. The cardboard allows me to push the needle through the rope and the sail and a bit more (perhaps 2 to 3 mm - the thicknes of cardboard) on the other side. It is easier than, to push it all the way through. I sew through the middle of the rope and  through the sail, just perhaps 1 mm from its edge. After the sewing, the thread is nearly invisible, only from a very close distance, say a few cm, similar to full size sails.

I am sure there are many different ways to do it and some members will explain their techniques, but I do it in the following faschion:
I use a very thin cotton fabric for my sails, instead of silkspan. I found it in my local fabric store  (www.moodfabrics,com)  a fabric known as cotton muslin, already factory coloured into a nice cream (eggshell) color - perfect for sails, so I don't need to color it by myself. It is used primarilly for linings for suits or similar. But my model is in 1:48 scale, so this muslin is barely thin enough for my sails. It might be too thick for your model though, if your scale is smaller.
I wanted to show all sewn details of my sails, and I feared that silkspan, being soooo thin and delicate, would not allow this...
 
After preparing my sails in the traditional way, I attach (glue) to their edges a bolt rope, making sure that it isn't attached to the edge of a sail, but instead it lays ON the edge, on the AFT side of the sail. After the glue (white glue like Elmer's),  slightly diluted with water, has dried, I sew the rope with a very thin needle and thin thread of almost the same (only slightly darker) color that the sail itself, like on the attached pic. I found out that if I leave the rope only glued there, it has a tendency to split from the sail, if you manipulate it with your fingers. Sewing it, reinforces the bond and secures it.
It is an extremely tedious and time consuming process (if you think, tying ratlines is tedious, think again!), I work with magnifier Optivisor and have a thimble on my finger to push the needle through the slightly stiffened (by glue) fabric. I place the sail on a rubber mat, like yours, but on top of that mat I place a piece of ordinary cardboard and only then I place my sail on top of it. The cardboard allows me to push the needle through the rope and the sail and a bit more (perhaps 2 to 3 mm - the thicknes of cardboard) on the other side. It is easier than, to push it all the way through. I sew through the middle of the rope and  through the sail, just perhaps 1 mm from its edge. After the sewing, the thread is nearly invisible, only from a very close distance, say a few cm, similar to full size sails.

I am sure there are many different ways to do it and some members will explain their techniques, but I do it in the following faschion:
I use a very thin cotton fabric for my sails, instead of silkspan. I found it in my local fabric store  (www.moodfabrics,com)  a fabric known as cotton muslin, already factory coloured into a nice cream (eggshell) color - perfect for sails, so I don't need to color it by myself. It is used primarilly for linings for suits or similar. But my model is in 1:48 scale, so this muslin is barely thin enough for my sails. It might be too thick for your model though, if your scale is smaller.
I wanted to show all sewn details of my sails, and I feared that silkspan, being soooo thin and delicate, would not allow this...
 
After preparing my sails in the traditional way, I attach (glue) to their edges a bolt rope, making sure that it isn't attached to the edge of a sail, but instead it lays ON the edge, on the AFT side of the sail. After the glue (white glue like Elmer's),  slightly diluted with water, has dried, I sew the rope with a very thin needle and thin thread of almost the same (only slightly darker) color that the sail itself, like on the attached pic. I found out that if I leave the rope only glued there, it has a tendency to split from the sail, if you manipulate it with your fingers. Sewing it, reinforces the bond and secures it.
It is an extremely tedious and time consuming process (if you think, tying ratlines is tedious, think again!), I work with magnifier Optivisor and have a thimble on my finger to push the needle through the slightly stiffened (by glue) fabric. I place the sail on a rubber mat, like yours, but on top of that mat I place a piece of ordinary cardboard and only then I place my sail on top of it. The cardboard allows me to push the needle through the rope and the sail and a bit more (perhaps 2 to 3 mm - the thicknes of cardboard) on the other side. It is easier than, to push it all the way through. I sew through the middle of the rope and  through the sail, just perhaps 1 mm from its edge. After the sewing, the thread is nearly invisible, only from a very close distance, say a few cm, similar to full size sails.

This was my very first attempt at focus stacking, using my old Nikon d200, standard kit zoom lens 18-70, a tripod, no rails. Merging on Photoshop.
I am quite satisfied with the result.  What do you think, guys?
Thomas

There is available a very good little brochure by David Antscherl on making model sails from silkspan, if you decide to use this medium.

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

There is available a very good little brochure by David Antscherl on making model sails from silkspan, if you decide to use this medium.

There is available a very good little brochure by David Antscherl on making model sails from silkspan, if you decide to use this medium.

There is available a very good little brochure by David Antscherl on making model sails from silkspan, if you decide to use this medium.

I carved my own transom from a thin piece of wood (cherry, if I remember).

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

The best and most detailed rigging I have ever seen on a model!!!    😃 👍
 

@French Mr Bean
@Gahm
@jdbondy
@dvm27
Hello,
Thank you in advance for your nice comments and the many "likes".
I am always happy and motivated by positive feedback. Constructive criticism and suggestions are still very welcome.
 
Greg, I'm also very glad that my rigging inspires you.
 
Continuation: Standing rigging for jib and outer jib boom - Bâton de foc et bâton de clinfoc
First I had to attach the jib boom. I lined the jib boom passage in the cap of the bowsprit with a specially split leather (d=0.2 mm). The jib boom was placed on the prepared wooden pad or spacer so that it runs parallel to the bowsprit. Then I lashed the jib boom to the bowsprit analogous to bowsprit gammoning.

I added small details to the cap, as can be seen in the last picture. These are single blocks (l = 3.5 mm) on each side for the bowlines of the fore topsail. Next to the block you can also see the leather lining mentioned at the beginning.

Sequel follows …

And this one is from Harland.

And this one is from Harland.

And this one is from Harland.