Dziadeczek

I wouldn't worry too much about the filling pieces now. Make all hawse frames first and make sure they all fit and that their external surfaces are smooth (inner surfaces will later be smoothed). And only then try to make those fillers, carefully  sanding down their thicknesses to fit to the available spaces in between the hawse frames.
I too had a hard time making them for my "Frenchie" (of course, later on I bought the addendum brochure from Ancre with all profiles of the missing frames, including the hawse timbers, but it was already after I managed to shape them all by myself from the waterlines). Tough luck...

I wouldn't worry too much about the filling pieces now. Make all hawse frames first and make sure they all fit and that their external surfaces are smooth (inner surfaces will later be smoothed). And only then try to make those fillers, carefully  sanding down their thicknesses to fit to the available spaces in between the hawse frames.
I too had a hard time making them for my "Frenchie" (of course, later on I bought the addendum brochure from Ancre with all profiles of the missing frames, including the hawse timbers, but it was already after I managed to shape them all by myself from the waterlines). Tough luck...

I wouldn't worry too much about the filling pieces now. Make all hawse frames first and make sure they all fit and that their external surfaces are smooth (inner surfaces will later be smoothed). And only then try to make those fillers, carefully  sanding down their thicknesses to fit to the available spaces in between the hawse frames.
I too had a hard time making them for my "Frenchie" (of course, later on I bought the addendum brochure from Ancre with all profiles of the missing frames, including the hawse timbers, but it was already after I managed to shape them all by myself from the waterlines). Tough luck...

Hi everyone
I finally was able to finish the display case. Right now it is just sitting on an old table in my modeling room. We are about to start refurnishing some of the rooms in our house i.e. rugs, couches, bedrooms and what ever else pops up. These projects tend to morph into much more than you originally plan. 🤔Once everything is back in order I can put the case in it’s final home.  Here are some pics although the lighting was not to great. I plan on putting a couple of wireless light bars on the top glass plates to help with illumination. 

 

 

 

 

 
Now I am going to attack a birthday present from 3 years ago, a 9000 piece puzzle of the battle at Algiers. I think it measures approximately 5ft by 7ft if I remember correctly. It will make a nice wall hanging in my modeling room. 
Hopefully with a little help from my friends I can get the puzzle done by Christmas and then get started on a scratch build of the Charles W. Morgan.
 
Thanks again to everyone for the support during my Leopard build. 
 
Tom

A successful day at the “Fire Station” today, although not without it’s challenges.
The Brake System
 The next step is the installation of the Brake System. Here are all the component parts:
 

 
We start by removing the wheels, propping up the main frame and front axle, and inserting the Brake Crossover Bar (second from left in the above picture) through the holes in the bottom of the Water Box. These were test fitted when the parts were being painted, so no unwelcome surprises here.
 

 
We then take connect the Brake U-link to the Brake Link using a pair of 0-80 nuts on the threaded end of the Brake Link. These will  be used later on to adjust the length of the Brake Link.
 

 
The U-link is then connected to the Brake Crossover Bar on the right-hand side of the vehicle using a 0-80 x 1/4” bolt from the inside and securing with a 0-80 nut on the outside. Then we add the Crossover Bar Link on the left-hand side of the Crossover Bar and repeat the connection to the U-Link. Not particularly difficult, though something of a dexterity test.
 

 
We now need to install the Brake Lever Pivot Arms, Pivot Arm Braces, and the Brake Lever Arms. The Pivot Arms and Braces form a triangle that is bolted to the boiler wall using 00-90 bolts and nuts. They are positioned toward the bottom of the boiler. In this photo, you can see the length of reach required inside the boiler to be able to attach the nuts. 
 

 
Here I decided to depart from the instructions and carefully inverted the entire model so that it sat on the boiler cap ring and was supported at the front end of the water box. This allowed me to access the bolts from the underneath of the boiler. I retained this position for the remainder of the installation. Here is the triangular bracing in place, along with the Brake Lever Arm.
 

 
Once both Brake Lever Arm assemblies had been attached, we are instructed to add the Brake U-connector to join both Brake Lever Arms to the Brake Link using 0-80 x 1/4" Bolts and Nuts. One problem with that…..the 1/4" bolts are not long enough for the job, as seen in this photo.
 

 
I had a dig through my leftover bits and pieces from my Pocher car build and found some suitable alternatives. They were slighter larger in diameter at 2mm, so I had to re-drill all the holes, which in turn meant dis-assembling some of what I’d already assembled. Here is the result:
 

 
While the bolts may now be a little too long, I’m not going to worry about cutting them shorter as they can’t be seen that well anyway. At this point, the misalignment issues discovered earlier came back to play and a little judicious bending of the brake arm assemblies was required.
 
The Main Drain was also inserted while the wheels were off. The pre-drilled hole in the boiler wall was a little too low for it to sit correctly, so I elongated the hole somewhat with a small needle file until I could get it to sit correctly.
 

 
The wheels were put on, at which point we find another error in the Bill of Parts. The wheels are held on with 1-72 nuts. The parts list indicates that 8 of these are supplied and indeed that is what was in the kit. Only problem is, 9 are required to build the model. By happy coincidence, the replacement nuts I used for the U-connector were just the right size to fit on the axle stub I had previously broken and re-glued. The remaining provided nuts all went on to the cast threads without issue. 
 
Here is an overall shot of where we are at today:
 

 
 

Could I please. trouble you for a close up photo of your figurehead? What is it made of?
Regards,
Thomas

Also you can plank your hull with full length planks and afterwards score each plank across with a sharp exacto blade to imitate the joints between individual planks. I think this way might be a bit easier rather than trying to shape each shorter plank individually and identically to the rest of the short ones.

Thank you very much for your comments and your liking, place the last photos, the model of Naiad is over, thank you so much for following me during construction and I thank Ed Tosti so much that with his magnificent drawings allowed me to build this beautiful frigate. Greetings to everyone and thanks again.
 

Hi some photos of the base of the model under construction.

I think it might be a gouache (a little thicker, less watery watercolor, applied a bit more opaque).
To make sure however, it is not a print, you might remove it (carefully!) from the frame and see if the paper has a slight indentation along the edges - if it does, that means that this indentation was caused by a graphic's press, and the artwork is/might be a print, like a lithography. But, in such instance, the artist would routinely write in pencil at the bottom margin the number of this particular issue, and the total number of the issues intended, as well as his/her name and the title of the artwork. Here we don't have any of this, at least I cannot see it.
So, probably it is a painting (very well executed!), either a watercolor, or more probably a gouache.
 

Hi Javajohn ,
Since I built this model a long time ago, I don't remember now how long it took me to carve the transom. A few hours, at most. (I am a painfully slow modeler, I once knew a Japanese modeler, who would build three very intricate models in the time it took me to build one!)
 
Today I took a close up, macro pic of this transom. When I look at this pic, I think that it was rather a thin slice of boxwood I carved, instead of cherry - the color is more creamy/yellowish. The rest of the stern is cherry though.
I remember I made for this task a few tiny carving gouges, two from old discarded Dremel tips ground to the desired shape, and two or three from medical needles with their tips ground properly. You cannot buy such small gouges for this work anywhere, as far as I know!
Alltogether, this model is quite difficult and tricky to build, due to its small size. I remember they said that it was intended for an intermediate modeler, but I think that because of the size of tiny details and their delicate nature, it should be build by a more advanced modeler. One has to have a delicate touch and respect for the wood, plus very sharp tools...
PS: I just first noticed this glue blob oozing from the underneath of the lower left end of the transom;  the pic is much larger than the model, so it exaggerates details and imperfections...
Happy modeling!

I think it might be a gouache (a little thicker, less watery watercolor, applied a bit more opaque).
To make sure however, it is not a print, you might remove it (carefully!) from the frame and see if the paper has a slight indentation along the edges - if it does, that means that this indentation was caused by a graphic's press, and the artwork is/might be a print, like a lithography. But, in such instance, the artist would routinely write in pencil at the bottom margin the number of this particular issue, and the total number of the issues intended, as well as his/her name and the title of the artwork. Here we don't have any of this, at least I cannot see it.
So, probably it is a painting (very well executed!), either a watercolor, or more probably a gouache.
 

I think it might be a gouache (a little thicker, less watery watercolor, applied a bit more opaque).
To make sure however, it is not a print, you might remove it (carefully!) from the frame and see if the paper has a slight indentation along the edges - if it does, that means that this indentation was caused by a graphic's press, and the artwork is/might be a print, like a lithography. But, in such instance, the artist would routinely write in pencil at the bottom margin the number of this particular issue, and the total number of the issues intended, as well as his/her name and the title of the artwork. Here we don't have any of this, at least I cannot see it.
So, probably it is a painting (very well executed!), either a watercolor, or more probably a gouache.
 

Hi Javajohn ,
Since I built this model a long time ago, I don't remember now how long it took me to carve the transom. A few hours, at most. (I am a painfully slow modeler, I once knew a Japanese modeler, who would build three very intricate models in the time it took me to build one!)
 
Today I took a close up, macro pic of this transom. When I look at this pic, I think that it was rather a thin slice of boxwood I carved, instead of cherry - the color is more creamy/yellowish. The rest of the stern is cherry though.
I remember I made for this task a few tiny carving gouges, two from old discarded Dremel tips ground to the desired shape, and two or three from medical needles with their tips ground properly. You cannot buy such small gouges for this work anywhere, as far as I know!
Alltogether, this model is quite difficult and tricky to build, due to its small size. I remember they said that it was intended for an intermediate modeler, but I think that because of the size of tiny details and their delicate nature, it should be build by a more advanced modeler. One has to have a delicate touch and respect for the wood, plus very sharp tools...
PS: I just first noticed this glue blob oozing from the underneath of the lower left end of the transom;  the pic is much larger than the model, so it exaggerates details and imperfections...
Happy modeling!

Hi Javajohn ,
Since I built this model a long time ago, I don't remember now how long it took me to carve the transom. A few hours, at most. (I am a painfully slow modeler, I once knew a Japanese modeler, who would build three very intricate models in the time it took me to build one!)
 
Today I took a close up, macro pic of this transom. When I look at this pic, I think that it was rather a thin slice of boxwood I carved, instead of cherry - the color is more creamy/yellowish. The rest of the stern is cherry though.
I remember I made for this task a few tiny carving gouges, two from old discarded Dremel tips ground to the desired shape, and two or three from medical needles with their tips ground properly. You cannot buy such small gouges for this work anywhere, as far as I know!
Alltogether, this model is quite difficult and tricky to build, due to its small size. I remember they said that it was intended for an intermediate modeler, but I think that because of the size of tiny details and their delicate nature, it should be build by a more advanced modeler. One has to have a delicate touch and respect for the wood, plus very sharp tools...
PS: I just first noticed this glue blob oozing from the underneath of the lower left end of the transom;  the pic is much larger than the model, so it exaggerates details and imperfections...
Happy modeling!

Hi Javajohn ,
Since I built this model a long time ago, I don't remember now how long it took me to carve the transom. A few hours, at most. (I am a painfully slow modeler, I once knew a Japanese modeler, who would build three very intricate models in the time it took me to build one!)
 
Today I took a close up, macro pic of this transom. When I look at this pic, I think that it was rather a thin slice of boxwood I carved, instead of cherry - the color is more creamy/yellowish. The rest of the stern is cherry though.
I remember I made for this task a few tiny carving gouges, two from old discarded Dremel tips ground to the desired shape, and two or three from medical needles with their tips ground properly. You cannot buy such small gouges for this work anywhere, as far as I know!
Alltogether, this model is quite difficult and tricky to build, due to its small size. I remember they said that it was intended for an intermediate modeler, but I think that because of the size of tiny details and their delicate nature, it should be build by a more advanced modeler. One has to have a delicate touch and respect for the wood, plus very sharp tools...
PS: I just first noticed this glue blob oozing from the underneath of the lower left end of the transom;  the pic is much larger than the model, so it exaggerates details and imperfections...
Happy modeling!

Here are some more pics of this magnificent model.     😃
Photos of Vasa 1 : 10 scale model in the Vasa museum Stockholm (modelships.de)   

Here are some more pics of this magnificent model.     😃
Photos of Vasa 1 : 10 scale model in the Vasa museum Stockholm (modelships.de)   

Here are some more pics of this magnificent model.     😃
Photos of Vasa 1 : 10 scale model in the Vasa museum Stockholm (modelships.de)   

Here are some more pics of this magnificent model.     😃
Photos of Vasa 1 : 10 scale model in the Vasa museum Stockholm (modelships.de)   

Here are some more pics of this magnificent model.     😃
Photos of Vasa 1 : 10 scale model in the Vasa museum Stockholm (modelships.de)   

Yesterday me and my daughter went to the Vasa museum, at her insistence! I have been there several times but still like to go there. This time I took a few pictures of ship models. The first to are of the 1:10 scale model. It is absolutely huge (of course it is, it in 1:10 scale...😀) It must have taken quite some time and skill to build it.
 
The second model is of the ship slowly sinking. If you happen to visit Stockholm the museum is well worth a visit. You can easily spend a few hours there.
 
Children under the age of 18 is free admission.
 

I carved my own transom from a thin piece of wood (cherry, if I remember).

I carved my own transom from a thin piece of wood (cherry, if I remember).

I carved my own transom from a thin piece of wood (cherry, if I remember).