Dziadeczek

Thank you,  Moderator.

Out of this world!     
May I ask you, how did you carve (?) this lettering "DE 36"?
Thomas

Out of this world!     
May I ask you, how did you carve (?) this lettering "DE 36"?
Thomas

Out of this world!     
May I ask you, how did you carve (?) this lettering "DE 36"?
Thomas

Update
Brooktau, Troot brail, Breech rope shortened.
 
Karl
 

 

 

Prince de Neufchatel model, case, table, and lights.  Included this just to show effect of new lights in case.

Also I found this one:
www.jans-sajt.se/contents/Navigation/Galleries/MyModels_Heller_Le_Soleil_Royal_100.htm

Also I found this one:
www.jans-sajt.se/contents/Navigation/Galleries/MyModels_Heller_Le_Soleil_Royal_100.htm

I work on the sides of the head deck..
 

 

 

 
The ship gained a new image..🎨
 

 

 

 
 

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Hi, 
I am not an expert on your "La Creole", so I cannot help you to answer your question, but currently I am having similar problems with my 74 gun ship I am building, following Boudriot's 4 volumes. I noticed that in his books he sometimes says one thing, and elsewhere he contradicts himself. For example, he says that the running end of the fore topmast preventer stay is tied to a deadeye and the second deadeye is made fast to a jackstaff standard on the bowsprit, with a lanyard in between. But on his plans he clearly shows two blocks instead! Go figure!
I think that either you will have to faithfully follow Boudriot, or use your own best judgement and perhaps make your stay, say 25 mm thick - something in between 40 mm and 15 mm, (which is on item nr. 26 on your plan).
Thomas
PS: I always hugely admire your build - it is an inspiration for me with my own build, but I cannot come to your quality nearly enough!   😬

Overall view.

Hi Tony,
The way I did it, I took a sheet of a grid paper (with 1 mm increments) big enough for the entire frame, and drew two lines on it; one horizontal line near the bottom of the sheet and 2nd line vertical through the middle.
Then I drew several horizontal lines, parallel to that first horizontal line, but at various heights, the distances between being exact with the waterlines on your sheer plan. These lines will represent the same waterlines on your body plan (sections' plan).
Then take a compass and from your half breadth plan take distances between the keel and each waterline for each frame and transpose them onto your body plan at the corresponding waterline, and repeat this for all waterlines. Finally connect all points into a curve representing the half profile of your frame. In order to obtain a full profile, bend the sheet at the vertical line, place it on a light box and with a pencil trace the opposite profile.
Or, when you mark the above mentioned points on your body plan, mark them symmetrically on both sides of this vertical center line.
This is done manually, folks with computer programs can do it much faster, but I did not own such a program at that time.
This curved line only represent a mid section in between both parts of this "sandwich" that makes a frame. You will have to draw a few more lines like that in order to have a full shape of a frame. See, each frame hypothetically cut horizontally at a given level has a rectangular shape - for the mid frames , but this shape changes as you go towards the bow and the stern of the hull - they become progressively parallelograms due to the hull's oblique shape. 
You have to determine these shapes - for each frame and each waterline level. At the end you will have four curves - for each waterline, one is for a forward outer  profile of a given frame, second is for a forward inner profile, third is for a rear outer and fourth is for a rear inner profile, so the entire process is quite laborious and time consuming, done manually.
English is my second language, thus perhaps my explanations are not adequate enough, but I found a pretty good article on the internet, by Gene Bodnar, explaining everything in detail. Here is the link:  SCRATCH BUILDING A MODEL SHIP (modelshipworldforum.com)
 
Jean Boudriot is generally very good and precise in his plans and drawings, but as always, there is no guarantee and mistakes happen.
 
I suggest you make your own body plan (transverse sections) for all frames, making sure about their proper heights at the level of the deck and/or rail.
 
Regards,
Thomas
 

Ages ago I had to hand draw missing frames from Boudriot's plans for my 74. He only drew the so called station frames, but "for the clarity of the drawings" omitted the others. It took me considerable time to do it (of course, like mustard after dinner, later on Ancre issued addendum to the 4 volumes with ALL frames included, lucky me...  😬 ).
I remember I used waterlines from a half breadth plan as well as a body plan to draw missing profiles. It worked...

Hi Tony,
The way I did it, I took a sheet of a grid paper (with 1 mm increments) big enough for the entire frame, and drew two lines on it; one horizontal line near the bottom of the sheet and 2nd line vertical through the middle.
Then I drew several horizontal lines, parallel to that first horizontal line, but at various heights, the distances between being exact with the waterlines on your sheer plan. These lines will represent the same waterlines on your body plan (sections' plan).
Then take a compass and from your half breadth plan take distances between the keel and each waterline for each frame and transpose them onto your body plan at the corresponding waterline, and repeat this for all waterlines. Finally connect all points into a curve representing the half profile of your frame. In order to obtain a full profile, bend the sheet at the vertical line, place it on a light box and with a pencil trace the opposite profile.
Or, when you mark the above mentioned points on your body plan, mark them symmetrically on both sides of this vertical center line.
This is done manually, folks with computer programs can do it much faster, but I did not own such a program at that time.
This curved line only represent a mid section in between both parts of this "sandwich" that makes a frame. You will have to draw a few more lines like that in order to have a full shape of a frame. See, each frame hypothetically cut horizontally at a given level has a rectangular shape - for the mid frames , but this shape changes as you go towards the bow and the stern of the hull - they become progressively parallelograms due to the hull's oblique shape. 
You have to determine these shapes - for each frame and each waterline level. At the end you will have four curves - for each waterline, one is for a forward outer  profile of a given frame, second is for a forward inner profile, third is for a rear outer and fourth is for a rear inner profile, so the entire process is quite laborious and time consuming, done manually.
English is my second language, thus perhaps my explanations are not adequate enough, but I found a pretty good article on the internet, by Gene Bodnar, explaining everything in detail. Here is the link:  SCRATCH BUILDING A MODEL SHIP (modelshipworldforum.com)
 
Jean Boudriot is generally very good and precise in his plans and drawings, but as always, there is no guarantee and mistakes happen.
 
I suggest you make your own body plan (transverse sections) for all frames, making sure about their proper heights at the level of the deck and/or rail.
 
Regards,
Thomas
 

On the drawing you provided, Boudriot indicates spacings among the frames - the middle spots shown as short vertical lines between frames 1-10. From these points I would draw vertical lines up to the deck (in red on my copy) and from those, I would draw two (green) lines parallel to the red ones  showing the "thickness" of your missing frames, and thus placing the "rest" of the frames on the plan. La Jacinte was not a big, heavy, Navy ship having many tightly spaced frames, like the ships-of-the-war, so I would assume that in between station frames (1-10) there was another, one ordinary frame (unless someone has a better info).
Do the same on your half breadth plan (vertical view of the hull). 
On the intersections of these lines with your waterlines (on your half breadth plan), you will have points, delineating shapes of your missing frames.

Ages ago I had to hand draw missing frames from Boudriot's plans for my 74. He only drew the so called station frames, but "for the clarity of the drawings" omitted the others. It took me considerable time to do it (of course, like mustard after dinner, later on Ancre issued addendum to the 4 volumes with ALL frames included, lucky me...  😬 ).
I remember I used waterlines from a half breadth plan as well as a body plan to draw missing profiles. It worked...

On the drawing you provided, Boudriot indicates spacings among the frames - the middle spots shown as short vertical lines between frames 1-10. From these points I would draw vertical lines up to the deck (in red on my copy) and from those, I would draw two (green) lines parallel to the red ones  showing the "thickness" of your missing frames, and thus placing the "rest" of the frames on the plan. La Jacinte was not a big, heavy, Navy ship having many tightly spaced frames, like the ships-of-the-war, so I would assume that in between station frames (1-10) there was another, one ordinary frame (unless someone has a better info).
Do the same on your half breadth plan (vertical view of the hull). 
On the intersections of these lines with your waterlines (on your half breadth plan), you will have points, delineating shapes of your missing frames.

Ages ago I had to hand draw missing frames from Boudriot's plans for my 74. He only drew the so called station frames, but "for the clarity of the drawings" omitted the others. It took me considerable time to do it (of course, like mustard after dinner, later on Ancre issued addendum to the 4 volumes with ALL frames included, lucky me...  😬 ).
I remember I used waterlines from a half breadth plan as well as a body plan to draw missing profiles. It worked...