Dziadeczek
-
Posts
597 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Crochet Cotton?
A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from bruce d in Crochet Cotton?
A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from BenD in Crochet Cotton?
A while ago I bought some cotton cordonnet thread by Lizbeth - for crocheting, tatting and knitting purposes. I bought two sizes, nr. 40 and nr. 80 - just to experiment a bit with twisting model ropes from it, since it appears that the French DMC no longer makes theirs excellent threads, as well as the German Anchor bid the dust too.
This thread already comes pre singed by a gas flame, so the fuzz is greatly reduced (for all those who for some reason are unable or unwilling to do it by themselves). It is made in China, but from an excellent Egyptian cotton, even, with long fibres, with no knots and unevenness.
First trials turned out surprisingly well. The ropes came nice and even, the residual fuzz was eliminated by running the ropes through bees wax and burning it away.
One other thing - pretty much all threads nowadays come as right hand twisted in factory, so, in order to obtain right hand twisted ropes from them, I had first to 'untwist' the factory twist and continue twisting threads on my ropewalk, to end up with right hand twisted ropes. But, that did not seem to be a problem...
Here are some pics.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Ship paintings
This painting reminds me of another one - a large mural in the Air Museum in Palm Springs, California... Different ships, different planes though, but...
Thanks! 🙂
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in Work Table Recommendations ?
Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from thibaultron in Work Table Recommendations ?
Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Work Table Recommendations ?
Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from bruce d in Work Table Recommendations ?
Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Work Table Recommendations ?
Years ago I built a worktable (workbench) from plans in The Family Handyman magazine.
It is very functional, serves me well through all those years, it is easy to clean and its size can be adopted to your space.
Main advantage is that it doesn't have legs (it is permanently bolted into a wall, so cleaning junk from underneath is easy. Also, it is easy to sit close to it, with my legs under the drawers.
The disadvantage is that it cannot be moved and/or taken away into a different location. It is permanent in its dedicated space.
Here is a link to my earlier post (#3 there)
-
-
-
Dziadeczek reacted to marsalv in Le Gros Ventre by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:48 - POF
Thank you guys.
I continue with making of gratings - to be continued...
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Twokidsnosleep in Advice on work station setup
This is a setup I built many years ago, following an article in an old magazine "Family Handyman" . This workbench is about 8 feet long, permanently screwed on into the wall so it hungs above the floor and therefore doesn't have any legs, so it is easier to sweep the dirt underneath it. It has its own light sources (fluorescent tubes), a dust extraction system for your power tools and three (originally four - in the article) drawers for your loose stuff/tools and/or materials.
I built only three sections (limited space), although the article shows you how to build a four sections' unit. Everything is obtainable in Home Depot or similar home centers. But, in order to build it, you must have at least basic hand/power tools, eg. full size table saw/circular saw, power drill, hammer, and so on.
If you want the entire article with plans, I could find it in my junk, scan the pages and send them to you.
Happy New Year!
Thomas
-
Dziadeczek reacted to Vegaskip in Ship paintings
The Old Days
Victorian Dockyard
Acrylic on Mountboard 21" X 10"
-
Dziadeczek reacted to Vegaskip in Ship paintings
Paddle tugs 'Cracker' and 'Grappler' early 20th century
w/c postcards 6" X 4"
-
Dziadeczek reacted to Vegaskip in Ship paintings
Painted today HMCS Blairmore J314 awaits as her charges leave St Johns at the start of their Atlantic crossing w/c 16" X11"
-
Dziadeczek reacted to 0Seahorse in Szkuta wiślana (Vistula barge) by 0Seahorse - FINISHED - 1:100 - CARD - XV-XVIII century
Hello everyone,
as is often the case in life, various circumstances prevented me from showing the finished model earlier, including the war in Ukraine (I live 100 km from the Ukrainian border). But the time has come to present the rest of the work on the boat.
The very construction and making of individual parts was so trivial that it is difficult to write it in elaborations. As I treat this model as a test model, I decided to make a certain distortion, consisting in the fact that half of the ship goes to Gdańsk with grain and the other half goes up the Vistula with imported goods. This is because the rafting was carried out with the mast folded only with the help of oars, and during the return the mast was erected.
Since I had never done dioramas, so after many attempts to make grain in a scale of 1: 100, I gave up the idea and covered the entire cargo space with linen. I put barrels and bales of cloth in the bow part.
Laziness made itself felt when carrying out the rigging - the blocks are not made of cardboard (as would be recommended by the art of cardboard modeling), but of a 3D printer and painted.
Well, that's what I got out of this project.
Greetings
Tomek
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mbp521 in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Aha! Everything clear now! MANY THANKS!!! 🙂
-
-
Dziadeczek reacted to yancovitch in La Couronne by yancovitch - FINISHED - RADIO
final_6179f4f2a05b1b0085b9799a_477588.mp4 la couronne sailing-0.mp4
la-couronne-sailing-0_ZYw1vF0S.mp4
so kind...i don't have it anymore, but i'll put what images i've saved here if they'll fit 🙂
20210704_144738.mp4
couronne sailing.mp4
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in rigging to the French parrel, late XVIII C.
Hi Waldemar,
That was exactly my understanding (English version of the book shows exactly the same), but I wanted for someone else to confirm it.
I did exactly, like you suggested. Wrapped the parrel rope ends twice around the yard and tied them together crossing them in front of it. No falls whatsoever.
Still, I am doubtful that they did not have a possibility to loosen/tighten it somewhat, when necessary...
Thanks again!
Thomas
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in rigging to the French parrel, late XVIII C.
Thank you Mark, for your post. Yes, I have the book you mentioned. Before I wrote my question, I checked it. Among many details of rigging explained by Mr. Frolich, I unfortunately did not find sufficient explanation on their parrel.
I need something like this, a drawing or a photo, showing where the lines (ropes) go. See post # 187
Unfortunately it shows a Dutch parrel, and a double one too. Perhaps the French one was similar, I don't know.
And Mr. Boudriot doesn't show this detail in sufficiently clear way...
Thanks again, Mark!
Regards,
Thomas
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from thibaultron in rigging to the French parrel, late XVIII C.
Does anybody have a good illustration, perhaps a picture or a drawing showing the exact way of rigging to the French parrel for my 74 gun ship model?
J. Boudriot in his vol. 3, page 160 doesn't explain this very clearly and his drawings, being very small and sketchy, don't show the parrel-ropes exactly how they should run.
At least, I am not getting it...
It looks like this triple row truck-and-rib parrels (identical for both topsail yards, the Fore and the Main) differ quite a lot in their rigging from English practices and, frankly, to me, don't make much sense. I am not seeing, for example, their falls explained, how they run and how this parrel was loosened and tightened?
Any help will be very appreciated.
Thomas
-
Dziadeczek reacted to marsalv in Le Gros Ventre by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:48 - POF
Now it's time to finish the head, so I had to start producing a long-delayed component - a figurehead. Making a figure using a CNC milling machine was quite a challenge for me. You can now judge the result.
-
Our Emblem ®
