Dziadeczek
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from davyboy in Favorite hull and deck planking wood
Hull - pear (if available) or cherry, deck - holly, beech (for texture).
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Favorite hull and deck planking wood
Hull - pear (if available) or cherry, deck - holly, beech (for texture).
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Dziadeczek reacted to firdajan in Sovereign Of The Seas by firdajan - 1:96 - CARD
Just another small update...the more I work the less is visible....😄
But I´m trying.
Jan
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Focus Stacking
Dziadeczek, are you running a build log anywhere? I ended up here because of your ‘at a glance’ entry and I’m keen to have a closer look at your sails!
Kevin, I answered you privately.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrne's Saw Reference (also good for other desktop hobby saws)
Years ago I learnt a neat trick from the now defunct Seaways' "Ships in scale" list, on how to finetune your small table saw (if the fence/blade is adjustable), like the PREAC saw or similar.
I believe this was posted by Phil Krol.
This should be done with the saw disconnected from power. First raise the blade to its maximum height. Then bring the fence close to the blade. Place a strip of paper in between the blade and the fence in the place where the blade rises (during the operation of the saw) from underneath the table - this place is further away from the operator. Place another strip of paper between the blade and the fence - closer to you, where the blade goes down under the table (where the actual cutting is done). Bring the fence tightly close to the blade, so that the strip closer to you, (where the blade goes down under the table) cannot be removed without tearing it. The other strip should be however removed quite easily, no tearing necessary.
Obviously, in this setup, the fence and the blade ARE NOT perfectly paralel! The extra tiny space between the blade and the fence further away from you prevents kickbacks and allows cutting done more easily, without burning the blade's edge next to the fence.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from modeller_masa in The rope making machine from the Musée de la Marine de Paris
I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those. Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Tweezers For PE
Amazon has some very good looking "surgical" grade (and inexpensive) tweezers. Google it.
I am going to get me a pair too.
Thomas
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Brinkman in The rope making machine from the Musée de la Marine de Paris
I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those. Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in Tweezers For PE
Amazon has some very good looking "surgical" grade (and inexpensive) tweezers. Google it.
I am going to get me a pair too.
Thomas
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Archi in The rope making machine from the Musée de la Marine de Paris
I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those. Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from hof00 in Tweezers For PE
Amazon has some very good looking "surgical" grade (and inexpensive) tweezers. Google it.
I am going to get me a pair too.
Thomas
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in The rope making machine from the Musée de la Marine de Paris
I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those. Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from targa4403 in The rope making machine from the Musée de la Marine de Paris
I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those. Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in How to cut chamfers?
Ibex planes are great. I use my 8 mm one for shaving the edges of planks (for spiling) for planking the hulls.
I got mine (used) years ago for cheap (about 5 or 8 bucks, I remember) on one of the ship models exhibits from one of the exhibitors.
You can get them used on Ebay or similar, very good, perhaps all you need is to sharpen the blade a bit, if necessary.
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from thibaultron in How to cut chamfers?
Ibex planes are great. I use my 8 mm one for shaving the edges of planks (for spiling) for planking the hulls.
I got mine (used) years ago for cheap (about 5 or 8 bucks, I remember) on one of the ship models exhibits from one of the exhibitors.
You can get them used on Ebay or similar, very good, perhaps all you need is to sharpen the blade a bit, if necessary.
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Dziadeczek reacted to wernerweiss in USF Confederacy 1778 by wernerweiss - Model Shipways - 1:64
Dear modelers,
tomorrow my last post is exactly four months ago, and there is much progress with the model. The ship´s boats were placed only for the photos and are not yet glued.
I intend to have the model finished soon, because the next model is waiting....
Comments and questions welcome.
Greetings
Werner
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Vlax in How to Taper Masts?
For a better controlled process, build yourself a simple jig. Get 2 paint mixing sticks (for free from Home Depot), cut them to appropriate lengths (slightly longer than the length of your mast) and glue to each on one side a strip of medium grade sand paper.
At one end of such stick glue short piece of wood (spacer) of same thickness as the top of your mast, and at the opposite end glue two other spacers as thick as the bottom diameter of your mast, leaving center hole empty. Glue both sticks together. Especially helpful if you fabricate many identical parts.
Clamp your jig to the worktable.
Insert one end of your dowel into a chuck of a handheld drill and place the opposite end of the dowel into this center hole of your jig. Start your drill and gently press it into your jig, until it goes all the way. It will be stopped by the smaller spacer at the other end. Voila!
I saw this concept in the Polish shipmodeling forum - one modeler was fabricating a few dozen oars for his model. You can see it here (scroll down the page half way to see appropriate pics).
http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=44911&p=57251&hilit=galera#p57251
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from uss frolick in Planking Book?
I once learnt how to plank from Jim Roberts' brochure "Planking the Built-up Ship Model".
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Planking Book?
I once learnt how to plank from Jim Roberts' brochure "Planking the Built-up Ship Model".
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Kelp in Planking Book?
I once learnt how to plank from Jim Roberts' brochure "Planking the Built-up Ship Model".
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from DaveBaxt in first time rigging - tools and books suggestions
If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain! 😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Charter33 in first time rigging - tools and books suggestions
If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain! 😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Bob Cleek in first time rigging - tools and books suggestions
If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain! 😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!
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Dziadeczek got a reaction from Mark P in Focus Stacking
This was my very first attempt at focus stacking, using my old Nikon d200, standard kit zoom lens 18-70, a tripod, no rails. Merging on Photoshop.
I am quite satisfied with the result. What do you think, guys?
Thomas
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Dziadeczek reacted to KarenM in HMS SUSSEX by KarenM - FINISHED - 1:48
Construction completed. Now I need to do a photo shoot of the ship.
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