mgdawson

11 hours ago, Gregory said:

I have used a small soldering iron with a needle-like tip

I have a couple of gas powered soldering irons which come with a knife tip for cutting synthetic ropes etc. Probably a bit clumsy for model work but a small flat or chisel tip, say 1mm, should do the job nicely and you've got a multipurpose tool into the bargain.

7 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

I might try and get some very sharp nail clippers

I noticed these a little while back, the description says they're for cutting plastic sprues but they look like they'd be good for rigging, I haven't used them so can't comment further. $US19:99 each.

Fine Precision Trimmer

Ultra Fine Precision Trimmer

45 minutes ago, Papa said:

It says it means cuff or slap on the face.  

Hmm ChatGPT says pretty much the same thing, maybe it's the bosuns belaying pin for giving slackers the hurry up 😂

Had a look in Anatomy of the Ship - Diana, it lists 8' 18 pounders on the upper deck, 7'6" 9 pounders as chase guns on the f'cstle & 7' 9 pounders on the quarterdeck plus 32 lb carronades on the f'cstle & quarterdeck, unfortunately it only has carriage drawings for the 18 pounder & carronades.

Perhaps one of the other AotS books has the requisite drawings.

On 1/3/2024 at 4:09 AM, cotrecerf said:

Zaponlack

......

Ein ähnliches Produkt ist Nagellack.

 

Sorry, no translation available.

Google translation :-

Zapon varnishes are thin, transparent nitro varnishes based on highly viscous cellulose nitrates (collodion wool), which are dissolved in highly volatile solvents such as amyl acetate, ethanol and ethyl acetate. They are usually colorless, but can also contain dyes.[1] They are usually used to protect metals such as brass, bronze or silver from oxidation (to prevent tarnishing). Zapon varnishes are unsuitable for use on iron or steel as they have no rust-protecting effect. They are also used as a varnish and for painting wood, glass and leather. The process of treating with zapon varnish is called zaponing. Zapon varnishes can be harmful to health and are usually highly flammable. A similar product is nail polish.

Mark

9 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

Most white stuff I see is too stark white in my opinion.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that the tallow was more a cream colour perhaps with a hint of yellow.

Mark

On 8/26/2023 at 9:44 AM, RGL said:

It’s just a red/brown mix with a satin overspray 

Magic, ta.

Hi Greg

Just wondering what paints you used on the collins, particularly the bronzy colour on the topsides, it looks like a good starting point for a project I'm considering.

Mark

17 hours ago, BANYAN said:

I think what I need is more aligned with clipper ships though; although for the main timbers these will help me to start understanding them.

Perhaps this might be of some use.

From 'China Tea Clippers', George Campbell, 1974

Hi Allan

Understand your preference for a book but at the rate F360 evolves any book would quickly be out of date, somewhat of a disincentive for any prospective author.

WhiIe I saw the articles referenced by Kevin-the-lubber when they were published, I never worked though them so I can't make any specific comment but the diyode articles I have read seem to be of good quality, keep in mind those articles are almost 4 years old.

There was a major change to the interface around that time so I'm not sure which interface those articles use, I know I got totally lost at the time when I was using tutorials based on the old interface with the new interface.

If you haven't already found it I'd suggest youtube channel 'Product Design Online' hosted by Kevin Kennedy, if you search the videos for 'interface' Kevin has a few specifically on the interface and it's updates. Kevin is also building a 'Learn F360 in 30 days' course which he started 9 months ago, he's up to day 12 so far, looks like life got in the way of him producing the series for a while but appears he's back on it now.

Mark

Speaking from my limited experience of drydocking ships, I just don't see how that could have happened unless there was a serious error in the blocking.

It'll be interesting to see what conclusions the investigation comes to.

Hi Les,

If I was faced with that option I think I'd go all or nothing for the running rigging, ie all one colour as she was originally rigged or ½ doz shades to show that lines had been replaced at different times.

I'd perhaps also consider the same approach for the standing rigging, some not quite as dark as others, although the stockholnm tar would tend to quickly even things out fairly quickly there could be some subtle differences.

Mark

Hi Glomar

I see you have a couple of double block purchases there which the plan is not clear as to how to reeve them, you may have already worked that out but if not this pic might help.

On 3/9/2023 at 10:10 PM, DaveBaxt said:

 Lees Book ' The Mast and Rigging of ships of war' states that

Hi Dave,

As 'Endeavour' was built as a collier, 'Earl of Pembroke', not as a warship for the Admiralty I'm not sure Lees book would be relevant. When the navy bought her they refitted her below decks for her new role but they may have left the masting and rigging as is if it was in good condition and there was no good reason to change it. Presumably the 'Earl' would have been rigged for a much smaller crew than the navy would carry for a ship of that size and a smaller crew would also suit the planned voyage.

Mark

Hi,

Don't know about the name on the stern but she would have had draft marks aft and midships, you can see the midships draft marks in your 2nd photo.

Damn, tried to paste the image and it pasted the url, see if this works.

13 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

 

 

Hi Mark

That looks like one of the pond boats they used to sail in Sydney around 1900, I know there was a 2 foot class, not sure what other classes there were.

I see you're in Sydney, I'd suggest a visit to the Sydney Flying Squadron at Kiribilli, in the bar upstairs restaurant area they have a 2 footer on display along with a lot of other memorabilia. I believe the photo below is the same model but it's now rigged. The restaurant is called Foys after Mark Foys who founded the SFS, yes that Mark Foys. If you go down about lunchtime on a Saturday you'll also see the classic 18' skiff replicas rigging up, most of them are modern molded construction but the Brittania replica uses the original batten-seam construction. (Last race of the season, 25th March)

http://www.openboat.com.au/uploads/8/1/9/7/81975644/img-1003-2_orig.jpeg

I picked up some white cotton 2mm rope from Rope Galore, bit thicker than you're after but it may suffice if you can't get any smaller. They do mail order or they're right next to Bankstown airport.

I see they also do coloured 2mm polyester vb cord.

On 2/24/2023 at 12:39 AM, trippwj said:

each plate would weigh over 110# - that would certainly serve to lower the CG!

And potentially make her very stiff, I wonder if that's why they re-sheathed her with wood only 2 years later.

On 2/24/2023 at 6:14 AM, Harvey Golden said:

seems like a half-paragraph of text would provide all the information needed for the proper sheathing of a ship.

I found a paper on literacy in England with a couple of interesting points,
"In 1800 around 40 percent of males and 60 percent of females in England and Wales were illiterate",

"As all Sunday schools taught reading (so that children could read the Scriptures)...clip...In 1800 there were 2,000, with enrolment covering about 10 percent of children between the ages of five and eighteen".

(Sorry, I don't have time to read that paper fully but I don't believe I'm taking these quotes out of context.)

I gather that literacy was accelerating at a considerable rate at this time so literacy in the mid-late 1700's would have been considerably worse.

I also wonder what the level of literacy would have been achieved, if it was being taught simply with the purpose of reading the bible.

But then again, perhaps they just liked a beautiful drawing rather than interpreting a couple of paragraphs and I'm not sure how you would clearly describe the flow of plates around the bow and stern.

On a similar vein, I believe that all those lovely English pub signs were also addressing the literacy problem, you didn't need to be literate to know the pub was the 'Kings Head', the 'Swan' or the 'Rose & Crown'.

Hi Bruce

The Titebond liquid hide glue rather than needing heat is actually water soluble hence can be taken apart using water which I've needed to do on one occasion, I've also thinned it with water before application, I've not tested its strength when thinned however.

Perhaps try the paper trick with some titebond hide glue thinned to give 'just enough' grab.

Also has a long open time which can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on the job.

Mark

Set 2 downloaded thank you Kevin.

Mark

Thanks Kevin, have successfully downloaded (2GB).

When downloading from a shared link, dropbox packages all the files into a zip file so you're just downloading the one file not 200+ individual files.

Shipman, I had no problem with the images, they all came down at 4928*3264 pixel resolution (16MegaPixel), perhaps your viewer is doing something funny.

Are you viewing them from within the zip file ? if so your viewer may just show a thumbnail instead of the full image, maybe different if you unzip the files and view an extracted image.

Mark

Testors have a range 'Model Master Metalizer Lacquer Paints' which I've heard are quite good, sorry can't speak from personal experience, perhaps there's a colour there that might suite.

Mark

15 hours ago, Paul Le Wol said:

#71 measured to be  .64mm/ .025”.  Charts  indicate they should be .66mm/ .026”

#72 measured to be .61mm/ .024”.   Charts indicate they should be. .635mm/ .025”

So I guess we have to measure them no matter who makes them

Hi Paul

Drill bits often 'drill' a fraction over their measured size so the .02mm might be deliberate, good luck measuring the hole 🙂

Mark

https://www.youtube.com/c/SAILCARGOINC/videos