mgdawson

Sorry can't help with specifics but I've seen models with both a wooden and an iron stocked anchor indicating perhaps an in service replacement of a lost anchor whilst also illustrating the evolving technology.

Mark

Hi Dave

I've seen methods comparable to that suggested by Kris except you don't trim all the excess off, drill holes in your cap rail and glue the extensions into the cap rail holes, much stronger than just gluing on top.

Likewise a jig for soldering would be a simple piece of wood with a couple of holes drilled in it, perhaps another piece of wood pressed alongside in the unlikely event the horns try to turn.

As fairlead horns are usually oval in cross section I'm wondering if round rather than square stock would be closer to the mark, a wipe on the outside with a file/fine sanding stick would give the impression of a more oval shape and with round stock you wouldn't need to square out the holes in the base plate.

Mark

3 hours ago, James H said:

@jud

 

It's purely artistic licence.

I like the idea, adds a little 'life' to the model.

Just thinking long term, I'm wondering how are you planning to manage the power, if batteries, are you building a battery compartment into the base of the case or if a plugpack any thoughts on disguising the cable running to the case.

Mark

Hi Messis,

Some time back I found online a pdf of 'A Treatise on Naval Gunnery' by General Sir Howard Douglas, 4th Edition, 1855, 'Dedicated by Special Permission to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty', 689 pages, apparently scanned by google in Harvard College Library.

A quick look in the tables in Appendix D, 'Tables of Gunnery Practice', I found found some tables with ranges, projectile velocity and penetration over various ranges mainly for larger guns but some tables go down to 12lb, I didn't look extensively to see whether there were tables for 6pounders. There are a lot of different tables which may be of interest, likewise the whole book. Unfortunately some of the tables are quite poorly reproduced and at a glance are unreadable while others are crystal clear, but they may reveal some relevant info with a bit of effort. It appears this was a problem with the source rather than the scanning.

The book is obviously British but I imagine performance would be comparable with French cannon.

Sorry, I can't give you a link, I downloaded it quite a while ago and don't remember where from.

Mark

On 8/20/2019 at 7:05 PM, hyw said:

黄铜自制。使用整体铣削1:48

From google translate :-

"Brass homemade. Use integral milling 1:48"

Hi mugje,

i don’t have any experience with this but i would imagine over time the copper patina will change and any matching now may not match in future.

happy to be corrected.

mark

14 hours ago, Gregory said:

In what context is it measured by circumference?

All the rope I can find for sale seems to be listed with diameter and length.

 

E-rigging for one example..

 

The rope I'm mostly working with right now is about .6mm in diameter..  I'm not sure how knowing the circumference would help me at this point.

By convention, when measuring rope in imperial units use circumference, when measuring in metric, diameter.

11 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

 have you given thought to a posable 1:6 scale figure?

I have this kit in my stack and have considered an ‘abstract’ figure to man it, don’t want a fully detailed figure detracting from the model.

One option i found is a mannequin that artists use to practice proportion, available in various sizes including 12” which at this scale would be a 6’ pilot, a tall person for the period but not unheard of (from memory my research indicated 5’6” - 5’7” would be more appropriate) but i doubt the difference would be too noticeable. Depending on the mannequin a little trimming might even be feasible. 

Mark

PS Apologies for the imperial measurements, a persons height is the one thing I’ve never got my head around in metric !

Was trying to find a photo to illustrate the above and this came up in the google search.

Mark

Hi Matrim

I’ve seen photos of clippers & cargo ships alongside in Sydney with their lower/longer yards acockbill (canted vertically) due to the proximity of the warehouse. Hmm, that could make an interesting diorama.

I believe all yards acockbill was also used as a sign of mourning, presumably when a ship was at anchor.

Mark

On 1/20/2019 at 1:00 PM, GrandpaPhil said:

What’s the best way to scratch build cleats?

Hi Grandpa

Kevin Kenny did a video on this, it's in the ' Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs' section.

16 hours ago, Kevin Kenny said:

Cant find a video on her build but lots of photos on the App Pintrest

Thanks Kevin, I'd found lots of photos but I was after some of her out of the water to have a look at the run aft and as most model photos look down at the model, or at best a straight profile, they don't really give a clear view of the lines under the counter, so I was trying to find some of the actual ship out of the water. I thought with a project like that they'd do a doco or blog on her build hence my search was in that direction.

I'll keep an eye out.

Mark

I got curious about her lines :-

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Linesplan-of-the-privateer-Lynx-from-Chapelle-1967_fig3_303566120

Does anyone know of any photos or videos of her build or even just out of the water ?

Mark

23 hours ago, Richmond said:

They also have a Fingertip Swivel Detail Knife which holds a special blade but I have not been able to purchase it locally.

Hi Richmond

I was about to jump in and say Spotlight have those detail knives but when I just looked online I can't find them. I know I've seen them somewhere as I was looking at them as an alternative to a leatherworkers swivel knife used in leather carving.

I did however find 2 versions on Amazon.com.au, the version you pictured for $17 & a 'new' version with a rubberised fingertip  in place of the knurled one for $25. Perhaps I did see them in Spotlight and they've dropped the 'old' and are waiting for the 'new'.

Personally I think I'd prefer the old version, the rubberised grips they like putting on things are great when new but always seem to go manky after a couple of years.

Fiskars Fingertip Swivel Knife

Fiskars New Fingertip Swivel Knife Superior Control Softgrip Detail

Mark

6 hours ago, uss frolick said:

But how would a wooden figurehead survive in salt water?

My understanding is that it’s the oxygen level that’s important. If it’s buried in silt excluding the oxygen, it can survive quite a long time.

i’ve recently seen an article about a ship something like 2000 years old of which some parts were well preseved in silt. Likewise, on land, some wooden artifacts have survived in peat bogs for thousands of years.

Hi Alan

Another option for a CAD program is Fusion360, I'm only just learning it now and have only touched one other "real" CAD program, so I can't give you an objective comparison but it seems quite powerful once you get over that steep initial learning curve. I started to learn Sketch-Up a few years back but it didn't work the way my mind works, I felt like I was always looking for a way to get around the program to do what I wanted, a "proper" CAD program makes more sense to me.

Instructables.com has a 3D Design class using Fusion as well as several classes on 3D printing, CNC etc which use it and on the Fusion 360 website there are extensive video tutorials. (Instructables and Fusion360 are both owned by AutoCAD)

It's a professional program but free to "startups and hobbyists".

Like everything the best program is the one that works for you, I'd suggest, as their both free, doing a few tutorials on SketchUp and Fusion360 and see which fits you.

Mark

Hi Art

I’m guessing you’re referring to the SS San Francisco 1853, wrecked on her maiden voyage, Jan 1854.

As Wefalck indicated, the preferred practice in that era was a tight stow rather than relying on lashings. In my experience tight stowage is far better in a seaway, i’ve been in situations in a gale where we’ve had seamen retightening lashings every hour and the cargo working against them still snapped chains and stretched 20mm dia wire rope. A tight stow can’t move.

Towards the bottom of this page (http://mcjazz.f2s.com/ClipperShipPlans.htm) is a drawing of a tea clipper being loaded. As you can see they have multiple sized tea chests to use the maximum volume and fill the nooks and crannies with stone dunnage. There’s a labourer with a large mallet to ‘encourage’ the chests into the tight stow. Not quite the cargo your SF would have carried but the theory’s there.

Note :- Most if not all the drawings on the linked page were drawn by George Campbell and appeared in his book ‘China Tea Clippers’ (1974).

Another Cape Horn doco, made in 1980, 54min.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lO7Om05Kt1s&t=2s

My 1 trip around The Horn was as 3rd Mate on a 40,000 tonne container ship, it was dead calm.

Hi Sandor,

I've seen several drawings similar to the one Nils posted although I don't think I've ever seen one of the tackles taking a turn around an axle. I've also seen the chocks between the axles rather than outside, more seaman like IMHO, less chance of being kicked/knocked out.

Greg mentions guns turned side on to the bulwarks, I've seen several models and drawings with this arrangement mainly for signal guns or on expedition ships with reduced armament to make more room on deck, I would not expect to see this on any active warship. Unfortunately I don't remember how they were lashed.

Little awkward getting to my reference library at the moment but if I get a chance I'll have a hunt for you.

Mark D

10 hours ago, probablynot said:

And if you can "box the compass", you can recite all the 32 points of the compass in their correct order.

When i did my ticket the examiner got me to do it backwards, in half points !

Mark

1 hour ago, Osmosis said:

I saw that on one of my google searches but could not find it locally.

Hi Art

Perhaps try jewellery supply houses, I've also seen it at a casting/molding supply for theatrical props, masks etc.

Mark

Hi John

Seamen are a practical bunch, today just as much as in the past, why not google up images of some active original or replica period ships and see what they're doing eg James Craig (Sydney), Enterprize (Melbourne), Duyfken (Fremantle), Endeavour, Bounty. Don't bother with static museum ships like Polly Woodside, Cutty Sark or Victory, on those sometimes low maintenance preservation has to take precedence over historic accuracy.

By your location you're not far from Mystic, pop down and have a look at the Morgan, I believe they were making her seaworthy again a few years ago so her current rig should be practical.

Mark

One problem I've found with using epoxy as a finish coat was bubbling. I later spoke to an expert demonstrating epoxy finish who explained the multiple errors I'd made.

Basically there is air in the wood and any heating will expand that air forming bubbles in the finish.

So what did I do wrong ?

1. I warmed the epoxy to the point where it was warmer than the wood so when I applied the epoxy it heated the air in the wood - bubbles.

2. I set the coated piece in the sun thinking as warmth thins epoxy it would flow more and give me an even finish - more bubbles.

3. I did the coating in the morning so it would have plenty of time to harden before evening, day warms up - even more bubbles.

The recommendation was to have the wood initially 10C warmer than the epoxy thereby the epoxy will have a cooling effect and be sucked into the wood.

Start coating when the day starts cooling.

Keep in shade.

He also suggested spraying the surface with methylated spirits to break the surface tension of any remaining bubbles.

In the demonstration he was warming the wood to 40C & the epoxy to 30C, quick spray with the metho, glass finish.

(I've not tried this yet, his recommendation to me for the job I had in hand was polyurethane )

Mark

Hi

Andrew mentioned keeping the tip of your soldering iron clean using a damp sponge.

Wiping your iron on a damp sponge shock cools the tip and over time this can lead to the tip cracking and failure. This is really not a problem for occasional use except that if/when the tip does eventually fail your equipment may be of such an age that replacement tips are no longer available necessitating purchase of a whole new iron. (Yep, I've got a lovely mini-scope that I can't get a tip for.)

A newer method of tip cleaning is a brass wire 'sponge' which wipes the excess solder off the iron without drawing off much heat. I've been using one now for some years and find it does as good if not better job of cleaning the tip, a quick poke into the wire does the job, no rotating the tip on the sponge, no waiting for the iron to reheat, no need to run into the kitchen to redamp the sponge and no need for periodic sponge replacement, just occasionally pull the wire out of its holder and shake out the little knobs of solder.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/goot-soldering-iron-tip-cleaner/p/TS1510
http://www.altronics.com.au/p/t1330-solder-tip-cleaner-and-holder/

Hi Kurt

If you're looking for more in depth info on a specific subject you might try the Nexus Special Interests, 'Workshop Practice Series'. I see they're now up to book 49.

Many model engineer suppliers as well as the usual online book sellers carry them.

Mark