Bob Cleek

I believe that the old Delta saw that grsjax mentioned above was  a 14in saw.  These were the industry standard in the 1980’s and if you can find one it should meet your needs.  These saws can be upgraded with new tires, new guides, a new tension spring and if necessary a larger motor.  Many of these improvements are designed to fit the Delta saw.  I don’t know if anyone makes a bandsaw with an integral motor, one that is directly connected or geared to the saw.  If so, I would avoid it in favor of a belt driven tool.  With a belt driven tool, you can easily change the speed of the blade , increase motor HP, or replace a dead motor. 
 
Roger

Not many maritime museums have a full-sized real-life USCG surf boat in the lobby and at the same time a number of Lloyd McCafferty's miniature ship models, all under the same roof! Quite a range of subject matter. Out of the way, but as Harvey said, definitely worth the side trip. It deserves to be on every modeler's bucket list!
 

What I have done before is to sand the hull leaving the dust on it and then paint it with sanding sealer across, not along the planks which brushes the sawdust into any small gaps. It is the easy enough to gently sand the whole hull again with fine sandpaper. Works well for me.
 

Yes. That's how it's frequently done when the clew blocks are left attached to the sail when the sail is furled, which would be the practice when the sail was ready to be set. As I mentioned previously, "Different ships, different long splices." It's one of several options and these are often dictated by the size of the sail. The larger the sail, the larger the blocks and sheets. The posted picture you mention is perfectly accurate.
 
Note that in figure H13/22 above, and in the photo above, there is but one sheet which is led to the stern amidships. An alternate arrangement would be to run two sheets, one port and one starboard to the quarters. When the sail was tacked, the corresponding sheet would be taken up and the other left to run free. Thereafter, the leeward sheet could be taken up to cause the clew to be pulled down further which could be desirable for flattening the sail shape on a close reach.

As the saying goes, "Different ships, different long splices." Which means that when it comes down to rigging details, it's the captain's choice, or the bosun's. If a loose-footed fore and aft sail is brailed, the clew and sheet, and the blocks attached to the clew, if any, can be led forward and the sheets coiled and belayed as may be convenient. To keep a lot of loose cordage off the quarter deck, the blocks are often equipped with hooks or snap-shackles, so that the sheets can be easily removed from the clew for brailing and stowed conveniently. Sometimes, the clew blocks are stowed with the tackle line still rove through the blocks and the blocks hooked to eye bolts beneath the rail and forward of the sheet turning blocks at the quarters, with the sheet tackle falls coiled and belayed at the rail aft. In that fashion, they are completely out of the way when the sail is brailed and it's an easy task to simply cast off the belayed sheets and attach the blocks to the clew when the sail is set and you're good to go.

Not many maritime museums have a full-sized real-life USCG surf boat in the lobby and at the same time a number of Lloyd McCafferty's miniature ship models, all under the same roof! Quite a range of subject matter. Out of the way, but as Harvey said, definitely worth the side trip. It deserves to be on every modeler's bucket list!
 

Keep in mind that there's plywood and there's plywood. For modeling work, I'd seriously consider using "MDO" (Medium Density Overlay) type plywood. This is the stuff highway departments use for road signs. It's seven-ply, as I recall, and is laminated without voids. It is covered on both faces with some sort of epoxy paper which can be finish painted without the need for any face sanding or sealing.
 
That said, if there is any shape to the keel you are contemplating, and there is to most all keels, plywood is a less than optimum choice because it doesn't shape well at all. Rounded edges and tapered shapes will expose the laminate edges. The face veneers of plywood are easy to "sand through," exposing the lower laminates. In less than premium grades, splitting and cracking of the face surfaces can occur. And... of course, in narrow sizes, it lacks the strength of grown wood.
 
Plywood has its place (decks and bulkheads,) but for structural and planking wood the way God made it is the best bet.

Not many maritime museums have a full-sized real-life USCG surf boat in the lobby and at the same time a number of Lloyd McCafferty's miniature ship models, all under the same roof! Quite a range of subject matter. Out of the way, but as Harvey said, definitely worth the side trip. It deserves to be on every modeler's bucket list!
 

Not many maritime museums have a full-sized real-life USCG surf boat in the lobby and at the same time a number of Lloyd McCafferty's miniature ship models, all under the same roof! Quite a range of subject matter. Out of the way, but as Harvey said, definitely worth the side trip. It deserves to be on every modeler's bucket list!
 

Not many maritime museums have a full-sized real-life USCG surf boat in the lobby and at the same time a number of Lloyd McCafferty's miniature ship models, all under the same roof! Quite a range of subject matter. Out of the way, but as Harvey said, definitely worth the side trip. It deserves to be on every modeler's bucket list!
 

Not many maritime museums have a full-sized real-life USCG surf boat in the lobby and at the same time a number of Lloyd McCafferty's miniature ship models, all under the same roof! Quite a range of subject matter. Out of the way, but as Harvey said, definitely worth the side trip. It deserves to be on every modeler's bucket list!
 

The local museum here has a full set: The Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, Oregon. If anyone is in the area, it's a first-rate museum and has a shockingly good library and archives. If you want to see the HAMMS, add an extra day (or two)!
Harvey

Chris
 
I use the grizzly G0555.  It has bearings on the blade
 
Jim
 
 

I can highly recommend the Laguna 14/BX.   Its more than 2HP which makes it easy to cut through hardwoods at even 6" wide.   I have used it without fail to resaw sheets from billets of wood.   Yes its pricey but everything good is a bit more expensive.   I have had mine for over 5 years if not more.
 

 
https://lagunatools.com/classic/bandsaws/14bx-bandsaw/
 
There are lesser models with slightly less HP which would be fine if you are only cutting for yourself.   The more HP was used to resaw sheets for sale and is used and abused.
 
Chuck

Here is another photo which Any has kindly updated for me by pointing out where the different attachments are to the gaff, which has helped me understand what I am looking at.

As I expect Bill will attest, the Emco Unimat DB/SL and Unimat III models are great little modeling lathes but, unfortunately, they are no longer in production and have developed a strong collectors' cult following. I have a DB/SL that I bought used and refurbished it to "as new" condition, but, I must regretfully admit, that while I obtained the basic lathe for a very reasonable price, I probably spent more on eBay for used parts for the rebuild and for the required basic tooling than I would have to acquire a decent used Sherline, Taig, or Sieg lathe with equivalent tooling. (E.g. On eBay a used DB/SL collet holder and collet set goes for more than a thousand bucks and a dividing head and dividing gear set for around five hundred bucks on eBay, so, no I don't have either!) The lesson I learned was that when purchasing a lathe, models which are "in production" or which have still have strong after-market parts and tooling availability are the best choice. 
 
 

As I expect Bill will attest, the Emco Unimat DB/SL and Unimat III models are great little modeling lathes but, unfortunately, they are no longer in production and have developed a strong collectors' cult following. I have a DB/SL that I bought used and refurbished it to "as new" condition, but, I must regretfully admit, that while I obtained the basic lathe for a very reasonable price, I probably spent more on eBay for used parts for the rebuild and for the required basic tooling than I would have to acquire a decent used Sherline, Taig, or Sieg lathe with equivalent tooling. (E.g. On eBay a used DB/SL collet holder and collet set goes for more than a thousand bucks and a dividing head and dividing gear set for around five hundred bucks on eBay, so, no I don't have either!) The lesson I learned was that when purchasing a lathe, models which are "in production" or which have still have strong after-market parts and tooling availability are the best choice. 
 
 

Right on! Truer words were never spoken.

 
Excel 55666 - Mitre Box w/ K5 Handle and Saw Blade - Midwest Model Railroad (midwestmodelrr.com)
 
This will do just fine for $17.50 and you're about $150 or 25% of the way to getting your Byrnes "Jim Saw" with the sliding miter table!
 

 
Byrnes Model Machines - Thickness Sander
 
Come on now. You know you really want one. You know everybody eventually gets one and then wonders why it took them so long to getting around to it. You know it will pay for itself over time in savings over the cost of pre-cut strip wood and it's accurate to a thousandth of an inch. Set aside a few bucks a month and you'll be able to buy one without the purser ever missing it from the sugar jar.   
 

 
Go on! Don't be a wimp! Show some spunk! JUST DO IT!

Are those measurements you gave "actual" or "scale"?  Seems a 9 foot long keel will be huge if that is actual size.   As for large quantities it depends on where you are and what local species are available and also a local mill or wood shop to do the cutting.
 
You might also inquire our sponsors that do custom woods and see if they take special orders.

Just imagine that you are sailing a small boat with a loose-footed sail and it should become clear. The tack keeps the sail from sliding up the mast and allows the luff to be pulled tight along the mast. The sheets transfer the power of the wind caught by the sail to the hull so the boat moves through the water. .

Check out https://modelshipworld.com/forum/82-discussions-about-rope-making/  This is a gold mine of information of "rolling your own" rigging cordage. Get yourself a Syren "Rope Rocket," or build your own (see plans and how-to's in the "articles" and "more" drop-down menus at the top of the forum homepage.) It is fun and when people admire your models and ask where you get all the different sizes of realistic miniature rope, you get to nonchalantly say, "Oh, II make it myself."  
 
You'll find discussions of the various types of threads for rope-making in the above link. Check out the wide range of colors and sizes in the Gutermann Mara line of thread available mail-order from Wawak: https://www.wawak.com/thread/thread-by-use/all-purpose/gutermann-mara-100-poly-wrapped-poly-core-thread-tex-30/#sku=gtda000

Just imagine that you are sailing a small boat with a loose-footed sail and it should become clear. The tack keeps the sail from sliding up the mast and allows the luff to be pulled tight along the mast. The sheets transfer the power of the wind caught by the sail to the hull so the boat moves through the water. .

As I expect Bill will attest, the Emco Unimat DB/SL and Unimat III models are great little modeling lathes but, unfortunately, they are no longer in production and have developed a strong collectors' cult following. I have a DB/SL that I bought used and refurbished it to "as new" condition, but, I must regretfully admit, that while I obtained the basic lathe for a very reasonable price, I probably spent more on eBay for used parts for the rebuild and for the required basic tooling than I would have to acquire a decent used Sherline, Taig, or Sieg lathe with equivalent tooling. (E.g. On eBay a used DB/SL collet holder and collet set goes for more than a thousand bucks and a dividing head and dividing gear set for around five hundred bucks on eBay, so, no I don't have either!) The lesson I learned was that when purchasing a lathe, models which are "in production" or which have still have strong after-market parts and tooling availability are the best choice. 
 
 

One of the period wonks may be better able to answer with respect to the specific vessel in question, but, generally speaking, boom-less fore and aft sails are tacked by connecting the tack to a cleat or eyebolt on the aft side of the mast or on deck at the aft side of the foot of the mast, usually with a downhaul tackle for adjusting the tension on the luff. The sheets are attached directly to the clew, frequently with blocks attached at the clew where a purchase on the sheets is desired. The sheets are run to suitable terminations at the quarters, often with a purchase or turning block on the quarter to permit the bitter end's being hauled inboard. Sheets and tacks are always required on all fore and aft sails.

Perhaps some of the small vendors that make ropes, advertised here, might have what you need. Otherwise, I strongly encourage you to make your own ropes on a ropewalk, using commercially made thread, either polyester or cotton. That way, you can adjust the type of thread and/or its thickness to what you need. (besides, it is fun!)
Now that DMC and Anchor threads are gone, I have recently had pretty good luck with cotton thread known as Lizbeth (available online), which is Egyptian cotton, traditionally one of the best, it comes in several thicknesses and colours and is already factory presinged, so you don't end up with fuzzy ropes.
I make my ropes from this thread on my ropewalk. The thread is all factory right-hand twisted, so if you make your own ropes from it, they 'll all come left-hand twisted, otherwise, if you want them to be R-hand twisted, you'll first have to untwist factory given R-hand twist, turning in the opposite direction and continue your R-hand twist on your ropes  thereafter.
The question is, can you use this thread straight out of the spool?  (after all, it already comes R-hand twisted, like most ropes on a ship). Well, the factory made twist on this thread is a bit too loose, you want your ropes look like natural ropes, just smaller. So, it is much better to twist your own ropes from this thread, with tighter twist, rather than using it straight from the spool.
In the end, you' ll decide...