Bob Cleek

Ditto to everything that's been posted above.
 
There are many discussions here on these topics. I'll just mention a few observations as the owner of three lathes of various sizes and types. (A well-equipped Unimat SL, a fully tooled Atlas/Craftsman 12x48, and a Craftsman full size wood-turning lathe.)
 
1.  The price of a basic lathe or mill is, at best, only about half of what one would reasonably end up spending to equip the basic tool with the tooling necessary to perform the work usually done on them. 
 
2.  A good quality used lathe or mill, assuming it is in good condition, which often requires knowledgeable examination and testing, is always a better buy than a new one. This is especially so if one is able to purchase a lathe or mill in good shape with a considerable amount of tooling included in the deal. The "package" deals on new lathes and mills aren't anything special, generally. The "extras" are simply very basic tooling that would permit one to do one or two very basic operations. You may save a few bucks on the "package" over the retail prices, but you'll be spending far more than you save on the new machine than you would buying a good used one. They are like cars that way. Once you drive them off the lot, their value depreciates immediately.
 
1. The Unimat SL and Unimat 3 are excellent precision machines. They can be set up as either a lathe or a mill. The SL has been recognized by many as the finest modelmakers" lathe ever built. That said, they haven't been made since the seventies and you will certainly pay more for a Unimat than for anything close to one new. (The new "Unimats" are not the same. Somebody just bought the name to capitalize on it and brought out very poor products under the Unimat label.) Parts and attachments for the Unimats are no longer available except on the secondary market, such as eBay, and are extremely expensive. Don't even think about buying a basic machine and trying to fully equip it buying tooling on eBay and not paying a lot more than the equivalent for another machine. The old Unimats are great, but something of a collectors' cult item these days. The one advantage of that is that their value increases over time. I was lucky enough to be given mine. I spent another $750 or so just getting the basic tooling I wanted without any of the attachments for it, like the threading attachment, the jigsaw attachment, the table saw attachment, the rotary table, and so on, just to give you an idea of what it all costs. If it weren't a matter of "dancing with the girl ya brought," I'd have bought a used mini-lathe with better parts availability.
 
2. Sherline makes good, solid machines. To my way of thinking, however, they aren't cheap and they are limited by their size and power. For the same money, or much less on the used market, one can acquire a larger, more powerful and more versatile lathe such as the Chinese-made "7X's" or similar. (The prudent buyer obtains these for a bit more cost at reliable retailers like Grizzly Industrial or LittleMachineShop. Theirs have better quality control. Buy one at a bargain rate retailer and you can expect casting sand in the gearbox, etc., etc., etc. Precision costs money. Buying "seconds" is a false economy.)
 
3. Because so much of the price of any lathe or mill is dependent upon the tooling you will eventually be buying, and because much of it may be proprietary, careful consideration needs be given to the brand that one is purchasing and how available less expensive generic tooling might be. Similarly, one needs to decide between metric and Imperial standards. The advantage of the Chinese 7X's for modeling, or anything else for that matter, is that there's millions of them so there's tons of tooling available in standard thread patterns. That often makes a huge difference in cost in the long run. On the other hand, a proprietary part for an "oddball" lathe or mill can sometimes cost so much repairs become pointless.
 
4. A lathe with a milling attachment can do milling operations. A mill cannot do lathe operations.  
 
5. Within broad limits, of course, every size lathe can do smaller work, but none can do work larger than the physical limits of the diameter and length of work pieces. (For example, the Chinese mini-lathes will spin a 7" diameter work piece which is as long as its bed. A "7X14" allows you work anything within a 7" by 14" size envelope.) You won't go wrong with a larger lathe, but many find they need to later buy a larger lathe, or wished they had. 
 
6.  Not only is a lathe the most versatile machine tool of all, but it is also the most dangerous. Rotary saws may injure a greater number of people, but only because there are so many more of them. A lathe is not a machine to be operated intuitively. It demands at least a basic understanding of its operation and a thorough grounding in safety protocols. Get somebody who knows what they are doing to instruct you or take a class at the local adult education junior college or something. Even a relatively small lathe can kill you.  A mini-lathe might not kill you, but it can still maim you pretty good. Never forget that.  https://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/14/nyregion/yale-student-dies-in-machine-shop-accident.html
 
7.  If I were buying a mini-lathe today, I'd be looking at something like these:
 
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-4-x-6-Micro-Metal-Lathe/G0745
 
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-7-x-14-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Lathe/G0765
 
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-8-x-16-Variable-Speed-Benchtop-Lathe/G0768
 
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-9-x-19-Bench-Lathe/G4000
 
 
 
 

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

I definitely agree with everything Mike has said about Sherline. Although I’m in Australia, I bought mine through Mike’s Tools in the US - good prices, great service.
 
The only thing I would add is think about what you want to do with the machine/s. I personally think I get more use out of my mill than I do the lathe, although I do use them both. There is an option to buy a combination mill/lathe set-up from Sherline, but I would counsel against that in favour of two separate machines for slightly greater initial expense - otherwise you’ll invariably be set up for the opposite of the machine you need at the time!
 
As MIke said, accessories are likely to cost you more than the basic machines but you can add these as and when you have a specific need. Sherline do offer some very good package deals with the basic accessories - and you can buy these packages through somewhere like Mike’s Tools as well. (No affiliation here, just a very satisfied customer).

I haven't used the Unimat, but have the Sherline.  It's a fantastic machine that's build like a tank!  The add-ons increase the financial cost considerably, but they also greatly increase the flexibility of the machine.  I'd offer a few thoughts:
 
1.  If you have the space, I would go for the 17" longer bed.  If you want to add bigger chucks, etc. to the headstock and tailstock, they will eat up the distance between centers very quickly.  I started turning pens on the shorter bed lathe, and ended up selling it and buying the 17" and now have plenty of room to use various accessories.
 
2.  Think about what you want to do with the machine.  Turn metal?  Turn wood?  Turn both?  I say this because while the machine is good for turning small wood projects, you are limited by the height off the bed in the diameter of parts you can turn.  Usually not a problem with metal given that the maximum diameter you can turn is 3.5" I believe, but is very limiting if you're going to be turning anything bigger than pen blanks.  I ended up getting risers for the headstock and tailstock which bump the maximum diameter to 6".
 
3.  I like the Sherline because you can replace parts very easily.  So if you lose a screw or washer or broke something, you can replace it.
 
4.  Think about getting the digital readout (DRO) - I love it as it has a tachometer and X-Y axis readout.  Very helpful if you want to drill at a certain RPM, turn something to a certain diameter, etc.  If you get it installed, you save some money and some time because it takes a while to swap things out to hook up the readout machine.
 
5.  Take a look at discountcampus for better deals than buying direct from Sherline.  The packages offer substantial discounts over buying the individual accessories separately, but look through the set to make sure you aren't getting a whole bunch of things you won't need.
 

At least here in Europe lead shot is being (or has been) phased out due to the environmental contamination it causes. I believe it is being replaced by tungsten (alloys).
 
BTW, 'cannon balls' are not made from (cast) steel, but cast iron. Steel was only introduced when ogival projectiles were introduced together with rifled breech-loading guns. Only then they were machined, rather than being used as cast. The balls seem to have been usually painted in black oil-paint to prevent them from rusting, so that should not really look 'metallic'.

She's coming together beautifully, Kevin! Thanks for sharing so much with us. I know that can take as much time as the modeling!
 
BTW, I stumbled across your movie, Tobago 1677 on Amazon Prime last night. I enjoyed it a lot. MSW member Ab Hoving's cameo was noted, too!
 
 

There's always the "old standby" of suitably sized round seeds. I suppose you have to know your seeds to know which to buy, though. 

A good epoxy bond should be as strong as needed. Pinning the pieces would be advised if you were using ordinary PVA wood glue, especially since clamping sticks end to end is difficult. Pinning is also difficult because you have to drill a straight hole into exactly the same spot on both broken ends or the two ends won't join together perfectly. (Hint: It's done on a lathe with the end in the headstock chuck and the drill bit in the tailstock chuck.)
 
  There are lots of online sources for micro-drill bits. You aren't likely to find them in a hardware store, although sometimes a few of the larger small sizes may be available in the Dremel tool display case. They are used a lot in the electronics industry and elsewhere.  You can get a standard set of numbered-sized bits for between $20 and $30. You can also sometimes find them individually for about $.75 each at a good hobby shop or in tubes of ten or a dozen on line. You will find yourself using (and breaking) the same few sizes, so "buying in bulk" provides a significant savings over buying individual bits, especially if you can "stock up" when one of the dealers has a sale.       https://www.amazon.com/s?k=micro+drill+bit+set&hvadid=78409042794384&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_421r1x8trl_e     https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&hvadid=78409042794384&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=micro+drill+bit+set&qid=1591571449&sr=8-11&tag=mh0b-20   Get on the Micro-Mark catalog mailing list. https://www.micromark.com/ They have a wide selection of modeling tools and hobby supplies and their catalog will give you a good idea of what is available on the market. Their tool offerings are often not the best of their type (i.e. "hobby quality") and they are often much more expensive that elsewhere. Their prices get more reasonable if you sign up for their email advertisements, which always have "loss leader" deals and substantial discounts on things. Syren Ship Models (click on their icon in the "sponsors" bar on the MSW forum home page) is the go-to place for blocks ("pulleys" to the landsmen) and rigging line. (Although you may want to try to duplicate the original rigging line on the model, which may be simply sewing thread.) Sourcing obscure tools and materials is actually part of the fun of the hobby.    If you are new to the hobby, it never hurts to post a question in the "Modeling Tools and Workshop Equipment" section of the forum. You will get plenty of advice on what you need and where it can be had for the least money. (Generally speaking, any tool the advertisements say is "essential for ship modeling" probably isn't!) There are also good articles on tools in the "Articles Database" in the address bar at the top of the forum homepage.   

Perhaps, but if the pieces fit together well, that's not necessary. One of the (few) advantages of epoxy adhesive for modeling purposes is that its bonding strength isn't dependent upon clamping pressure.

As for glues, epoxy adhesive is probably the strongest of all. I'd be inclined to use epoxy for broken spars because they do have to have some strength when rigged. (Rigging tensions can add up surprisingly.)  It's tedious to use, so practice a bit on scrap wood first. Excess epoxy adhesive can be cleaned up before curing using acetone or vinegar. 

A good epoxy bond should be as strong as needed. Pinning the pieces would be advised if you were using ordinary PVA wood glue, especially since clamping sticks end to end is difficult. Pinning is also difficult because you have to drill a straight hole into exactly the same spot on both broken ends or the two ends won't join together perfectly. (Hint: It's done on a lathe with the end in the headstock chuck and the drill bit in the tailstock chuck.)
 
  There are lots of online sources for micro-drill bits. You aren't likely to find them in a hardware store, although sometimes a few of the larger small sizes may be available in the Dremel tool display case. They are used a lot in the electronics industry and elsewhere.  You can get a standard set of numbered-sized bits for between $20 and $30. You can also sometimes find them individually for about $.75 each at a good hobby shop or in tubes of ten or a dozen on line. You will find yourself using (and breaking) the same few sizes, so "buying in bulk" provides a significant savings over buying individual bits, especially if you can "stock up" when one of the dealers has a sale.       https://www.amazon.com/s?k=micro+drill+bit+set&hvadid=78409042794384&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_421r1x8trl_e     https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&hvadid=78409042794384&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=micro+drill+bit+set&qid=1591571449&sr=8-11&tag=mh0b-20   Get on the Micro-Mark catalog mailing list. https://www.micromark.com/ They have a wide selection of modeling tools and hobby supplies and their catalog will give you a good idea of what is available on the market. Their tool offerings are often not the best of their type (i.e. "hobby quality") and they are often much more expensive that elsewhere. Their prices get more reasonable if you sign up for their email advertisements, which always have "loss leader" deals and substantial discounts on things. Syren Ship Models (click on their icon in the "sponsors" bar on the MSW forum home page) is the go-to place for blocks ("pulleys" to the landsmen) and rigging line. (Although you may want to try to duplicate the original rigging line on the model, which may be simply sewing thread.) Sourcing obscure tools and materials is actually part of the fun of the hobby.    If you are new to the hobby, it never hurts to post a question in the "Modeling Tools and Workshop Equipment" section of the forum. You will get plenty of advice on what you need and where it can be had for the least money. (Generally speaking, any tool the advertisements say is "essential for ship modeling" probably isn't!) There are also good articles on tools in the "Articles Database" in the address bar at the top of the forum homepage.   

Looks like a very nice model and well worth the effort of re-rigging, especially as it was made by your uncle.  If you are able to straighten out the broken masts temporarily and take a heap of photos of the rigging you'll find that a big help in re-doing the job.  The best way to repair the broken spars is to drill the ends of the broken pieces and secure them with a short length of wire as well as the glue.  This will give them the strength to support the rigging.  Probably the most comprehensive book on the rigging of clipper ships is Harold Underhill's "Masting and Rigging: The Clipper Ship And Ocean Carrier".  You should be able to pick up a second hand copy from Abe Books for around 30 or 40 dollars.
 
John

Hmmmm.  Well, as you can see, there are no sails on this model, but I'm familiar with the Scientific name.  As far as the epoxy glue (those with a 5-minute set), I guess I'd have to hold the pieces together by hand?  

Second gig 

The only Sea Witch kit that I know of what the old Scientific Models kit, which is long since out of production. Restoration work is challenging to be sure, but we have some members here who can give you pointers. A clipper like yours is one of the most difficult ship types to rig, so they will probably also suggest some reference works for you to peruse.
 
Good luck on your project!

How about telling us a little about your skills.  It’s a nice model and worth restoring. You have several options, ranging from completely rerigging to showing it with “stub masts.”  You should also plan for a glass or plexiglass case to prevent future dirt and damage.
 
Roger

Lead shot is an attractive source for scale cannon balls but it's only a matter of time before the lead will oxidize.  Hard shot will oxidize slower.  Humidity and temperature are variables that will influence the oxidation rate.  I don't know of any coating to prevent oxidation that will stick to lead.  Bird-shot made of tungsten, bismuth or polymers is available in many sizes and will not oxidize.  Heating steel/chrome ball bearings is a good way to blacken them. 

My goodness! I missed this build log the first time around and just noticed it now. I know Islander, nee Kathleen, quite well, having crewed for her owner, Harry Smith, in a Master Mariner's Benevolent Association classic yacht race back in the early 1970's. She was a sorry old bucket back then, but Harry and his family loved her and nursed her along in her old age. Despite a prior owner covering her in plywood and fiberglass resin, she still maintained the respect due her age. I was a young guy working for a yacht brokerage that specialized in wooden classic yachts back then when very few people had any interest in wooden boats. Harry invited me to crew in the race because my own gaff rigged ketch was hauled out and he needed crew for the race, an annual regatta of the top wooden classics on the West Coast. I have to say Islander's sailing abilities weren't improved by hanging a ballast keel on her, nor by covering her in an inch or two of plywood and fiberglass, but we had plenty of fun watching the fleet pass us by one by one on the course and the lunch Harry's wife packed was great!  She berthed in Paradise Cay Yacht Harbor in Tiburon, which is somewhat off the beaten path, but whenever I'd have occasion to be there, I'd check her out. I had no idea she'd gone to the Hyde Street Pier. Nothing makes a sailor feel old like seeing a boat he's sailed end up in a maritime museum!  It would be wonderful if they found a way to restore her to her original state. She's probably the last of her kind now.  Fact is, though, she was well past being a candidate for restoration fifty years ago. The HAER documentation is great and makes it possible for someone to build a replica from the ground up for far less expense and labor than trying to restore the original.
 
Kathleen, as she's now called again, was one of three surviving "pumpkin seeds" on the Bay up to the mid-seventies. The "pumpkin seed" was a San Francisco Bay and Delta centerboard hull which evolved to handle the heavy winds, short chop, and shallow waters of much of the Bay and Delta. They were called so because their shallow draft centerboard hulls resembled a pumpkin seed.  Harry Smith had Islander (Kathleen,) my good friend, Bill Vaughn, had Billikin, quite similar to Kathleen, unrestored, but still shipshape and in her original centerboard yawl configuration, and another fellow I knew, Bob Porteous, had Polaris, a nice pumpkin seed sloop he'd owned forever. I was in my early twenties back then and all of those guys were much older than I was. I'm sure they've all gone to their rewards by now. Bill Vaughn passed away a few years ago, into his eighties. Billikin was broken up long ago. I'm not sure if Polaris is still around. Last I saw her was maybe ten or fifteen years ago. Today, there are fewer and fewer of us "old timers" (never thought i'd be calling myself that!) who as young kids were taught and mentored by masters of the "pre-fibergalss" "wooden ships and iron men" sailing fraternity and learned our seamanship and maritime trade crafts from mentors who worked in wood, handed cotton canvas sails, and spliced hemp line.  Now wooden boats are like classic cars and have a following again, but the game is a lot like the Civil War re-enactors, they're trying to recreate the past but there was a break in the continuity of the craft.
 
While they provide modelers with honest and worthwhile enjoyment, God knows there are far more than enough Victory and Constitution models around. Models like you're attempting here with Kathleen are really far more valuable contributions to the historical record and, IMHO, their uniqueness makes them much more satisfying to build. Neither do you have to add a room to your house to display them when they are done. I encourage modelers to model these types of near-extinct watercraft. Twenty-five or fifty years from now, if you are still around, you will be proud to have built a "contemporary model" which may be the only reliable model of an extinct craft. The HAER collection, its indexing weaknesses notwithstanding, is a goldmine full of plans for modelers who are willing to do a bit of pick and shovel work finding what's in there. Better still, the plans are wonderfully detailed, complete, and professionally researched, and best of all, absolutely free. (Our tax dollars at work!) The TIFF format plans can be enlarged easily without loss of definition or widening of lines, which is a boon to modelers.
 
So, as for your model, it does seem to be, as you have described it, "50% the Kathleen and 50% a boat."  Actually, Islander could be accurately described as "50% Kathleen and 50% Islander," given the unfortunate modifications imposed upon her during her long life. Now, the model you've built so far will always be your first and you should always cherish it, but you may want to consider a new start on a model that is 100% Kathleen. Take the HAER plans and eliminate that abortion of a concrete ballast keel and deadwood. Replace the rudder with the "barn door" rudder she likely had. (And if you are lucky, one of the many photos that are part of the HAER collection, but not scanned, may show that original rudder in a photo of her hauled out.)  In her original centerboard configuration, she'd make a beautiful model. (Now that I've discovered her plans, I've put her in my own modeling "on deck circle," in fact.) It would be a challenge, perhaps, but if you take it slowly with a lot of attention to detail and rely on the resources of the MSW forum, you can do it.  I wouldn't bother with a plank on bulkhead hull approach. (It's more difficult to plank, I think.)  I'd suggest you either go with a solid "bread and butter" hull or full-out plank on frame. (Or consider card stock if that interests you.) This model would also be suitable for building with bent frames, as real small craft often are. (The frames are bent inside a "basket" of battens fastened over a few bulkheads which are then removed.) Take a look at the available tutorials and be ruthlessly attentive to detail. Start a build log and ask questions when they arise. You can do it!  

Stee,
Your model does not look to be particularly affected by dust...yet.  The main source for damage and destruction for any wooden ship model is in the failure to place it in a proper case.  They can vary from an elegant piece of wooden furniture with glass or clear plastic sides and top to a glued plastic box.  All choices will involve some cost.  If you wish it to last, a case is pretty much necessary.
Keep it away from direct sunlight and allow for filtered air exchange.
 
It is a worthy icon for your grandfather's memory.  Keeping it and keeping it safe would show great respect.  He spent no little time and energy building it.  If you do case it, attach a narrative with as much information about him and it as you can gather to the bottom.  This way when this is passed on to a later generation,  more than vague and mostly forgotten stories will be with it.

My goodness! I missed this build log the first time around and just noticed it now. I know Islander, nee Kathleen, quite well, having crewed for her owner, Harry Smith, in a Master Mariner's Benevolent Association classic yacht race back in the early 1970's. She was a sorry old bucket back then, but Harry and his family loved her and nursed her along in her old age. Despite a prior owner covering her in plywood and fiberglass resin, she still maintained the respect due her age. I was a young guy working for a yacht brokerage that specialized in wooden classic yachts back then when very few people had any interest in wooden boats. Harry invited me to crew in the race because my own gaff rigged ketch was hauled out and he needed crew for the race, an annual regatta of the top wooden classics on the West Coast. I have to say Islander's sailing abilities weren't improved by hanging a ballast keel on her, nor by covering her in an inch or two of plywood and fiberglass, but we had plenty of fun watching the fleet pass us by one by one on the course and the lunch Harry's wife packed was great!  She berthed in Paradise Cay Yacht Harbor in Tiburon, which is somewhat off the beaten path, but whenever I'd have occasion to be there, I'd check her out. I had no idea she'd gone to the Hyde Street Pier. Nothing makes a sailor feel old like seeing a boat he's sailed end up in a maritime museum!  It would be wonderful if they found a way to restore her to her original state. She's probably the last of her kind now.  Fact is, though, she was well past being a candidate for restoration fifty years ago. The HAER documentation is great and makes it possible for someone to build a replica from the ground up for far less expense and labor than trying to restore the original.
 
Kathleen, as she's now called again, was one of three surviving "pumpkin seeds" on the Bay up to the mid-seventies. The "pumpkin seed" was a San Francisco Bay and Delta centerboard hull which evolved to handle the heavy winds, short chop, and shallow waters of much of the Bay and Delta. They were called so because their shallow draft centerboard hulls resembled a pumpkin seed.  Harry Smith had Islander (Kathleen,) my good friend, Bill Vaughn, had Billikin, quite similar to Kathleen, unrestored, but still shipshape and in her original centerboard yawl configuration, and another fellow I knew, Bob Porteous, had Polaris, a nice pumpkin seed sloop he'd owned forever. I was in my early twenties back then and all of those guys were much older than I was. I'm sure they've all gone to their rewards by now. Bill Vaughn passed away a few years ago, into his eighties. Billikin was broken up long ago. I'm not sure if Polaris is still around. Last I saw her was maybe ten or fifteen years ago. Today, there are fewer and fewer of us "old timers" (never thought i'd be calling myself that!) who as young kids were taught and mentored by masters of the "pre-fibergalss" "wooden ships and iron men" sailing fraternity and learned our seamanship and maritime trade crafts from mentors who worked in wood, handed cotton canvas sails, and spliced hemp line.  Now wooden boats are like classic cars and have a following again, but the game is a lot like the Civil War re-enactors, they're trying to recreate the past but there was a break in the continuity of the craft.
 
While they provide modelers with honest and worthwhile enjoyment, God knows there are far more than enough Victory and Constitution models around. Models like you're attempting here with Kathleen are really far more valuable contributions to the historical record and, IMHO, their uniqueness makes them much more satisfying to build. Neither do you have to add a room to your house to display them when they are done. I encourage modelers to model these types of near-extinct watercraft. Twenty-five or fifty years from now, if you are still around, you will be proud to have built a "contemporary model" which may be the only reliable model of an extinct craft. The HAER collection, its indexing weaknesses notwithstanding, is a goldmine full of plans for modelers who are willing to do a bit of pick and shovel work finding what's in there. Better still, the plans are wonderfully detailed, complete, and professionally researched, and best of all, absolutely free. (Our tax dollars at work!) The TIFF format plans can be enlarged easily without loss of definition or widening of lines, which is a boon to modelers.
 
So, as for your model, it does seem to be, as you have described it, "50% the Kathleen and 50% a boat."  Actually, Islander could be accurately described as "50% Kathleen and 50% Islander," given the unfortunate modifications imposed upon her during her long life. Now, the model you've built so far will always be your first and you should always cherish it, but you may want to consider a new start on a model that is 100% Kathleen. Take the HAER plans and eliminate that abortion of a concrete ballast keel and deadwood. Replace the rudder with the "barn door" rudder she likely had. (And if you are lucky, one of the many photos that are part of the HAER collection, but not scanned, may show that original rudder in a photo of her hauled out.)  In her original centerboard configuration, she'd make a beautiful model. (Now that I've discovered her plans, I've put her in my own modeling "on deck circle," in fact.) It would be a challenge, perhaps, but if you take it slowly with a lot of attention to detail and rely on the resources of the MSW forum, you can do it.  I wouldn't bother with a plank on bulkhead hull approach. (It's more difficult to plank, I think.)  I'd suggest you either go with a solid "bread and butter" hull or full-out plank on frame. (Or consider card stock if that interests you.) This model would also be suitable for building with bent frames, as real small craft often are. (The frames are bent inside a "basket" of battens fastened over a few bulkheads which are then removed.) Take a look at the available tutorials and be ruthlessly attentive to detail. Start a build log and ask questions when they arise. You can do it!  

Your story resonated with me on several points: 1. I am a descendant of Nieuw Amsterdam immigrants. 2. I am a native of Northern California -- like the REAL Northern California, not like the Northern Southern California town of San Francisco. 😉  3. My youngest daughter is a Kathleen.
 
Good luck with your project!

Or there's  the old counterfeiter's trick: Tumble the damp paper in the dryer with a fabric softener sheet. (Or so I'm told. ... "Hey, can you break a hundred for me?")

Pin vise works for me. I can get better looking holes than with a Dremel and I don't have a drill press. I would start small and work up which also prevents splitting and this also lets you adjust if your hole is slightly off kilter

Thanks for the tip, Rob! We've had unusually high temperatures here in Northern CA the last couple of days, breaking 100F in some places. I'm close to the coast with sea breezes keeping things cool most of the time, so I just need something for the summer heat spells. I saw someplace that they are now making them with a hose that can be run out a window to deal with the "exhaust" and condensate. I'll be looking for that feature for sure!

I would advise you experiment on some scrap wood with both and see which you prefer. I'm guessing you'll end up preferring the pin vise for it's accuracy.  However, I'd say that after a Dremel, some sort of drill press would be the next most useful powered tool a modeler would want to have, so I'd urge you to bite the bullet and get one now.
 
You can get one of the $79 Chinese mini drill presses and get by, but you get what you pay for and, too often, less than that with Chinese machine tools.  You can also pay a bit more ($134 US) for a Vanda-Lay drill press that holds a Dremel mototool. (The Dremel drill press stand is generally considered to be close to worthless because it lacks the precision modeling demands. ) http://vanda-layindustries.com/ (I have no idea of the shiping and duty costs to Australia, though.)
 
  Vanda-Lay also has a variants of their basic drill press (above) which include a mini-milling machine using the Dremel mototool as well as other brands. These Dremel-powered machine tools are quite good, but aren't up to the level of the far more expensive dedicated micro-milling machines. Their primary weakness is the Dremel Mototool, which depends on speed rather than torque for its power.  For modeling, however, they do offer a good compromise in terms of a cost to benefit analysis. Vanda-Lay is a small family business with excellent service and support.   See the discussion on drill presses at: