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Pirate adam
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Everything posted by Pirate adam
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Kevin, I agree with Paul. Thank you for doing the podcast. What I loved about the podcast and all of your videos is the level of honesty regarding mistakes and how often you have to re-do parts, etc. I think that is super important for both newcomers and not-so-newcomers to the hobby to hear. I also loved your matter of fact comment that while you don’t currently have the right skill level to work with brass, you will of course have that in time. I think sometimes people forget that guys like David took a long time to master the various crafts in this hobby no matter how skilled they are. Looking forward to seeing Ulysses and of course the rest of Thorn. Adam
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Siggi that turned out incredible! Very unique and beautiful. Adam
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I think the red is the way to go. It looks good and seems more logical. Adam
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I have had success in a similar situation using the cans of compressed gas used to clean computer keyboards. Stubborn bits can be brushed off with a soft paintbrush. Adam
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Very cool model and nicely done. Adam
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Stern cant frames all installed. Working on some progressive fairing and then on to the bow.
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If it were me, I would go with what is shown in the planking expansion for HMS Sphynx. I have been working on the drawings for my HMS Crocodile, and I am constantly going back and forth between what is shown in the Pandora book and other sources. I think the Pandora book is a fantastic reference, but there are a few things that make me pretty skeptical about some of the drawings. The main thing is the authors make heavy use of inputs from a large variety of plans and models of ships other than Pandora or even ships drawn to the same lines. In some cases from much larger ships. It is a reality that this is necessary for some of the types for which less drawings are available, so don’t take that as a criticism of the authors or the quality of the drawings. There are sadly things that have been lost to history, but we are lucky a lot of great drawings are available for the Sphynx which is one of the closest siblings to your ship. Adam
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Port side aft cant frames complete. On to the other side. Adam
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Slowly but surely moving ahead with stern cant frames. I'm doing a bit of progressive fairing as I go while trying not to go too crazy. I'm pretty happy with the look of the chocks. Just a tiny bit of contrast due to the grain direction, but still pretty subtle. Adam
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I've started attaching the aft cant frames. No more until I add some basswood spacers at the top of the frames. Soon I will also start fairing the internal part of the stern before too much more gets in the way. Adam
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I finished gluing up the aft cant frames. My plan is to simulate the frame bolts with copper wire and blacken any exposed bolts on the model with liver of sulfur after fairing. I used wire labeled 0.019" diameter to simulate scale bolts 7/8" diameter. There are 2 types of joints on the cant frames. One type uses chocks and the other a simple scarph joint. I wanted to save some time laying out the bolt patterns on the frames, so I printed up some guides on label paper. I found that to work great. I drilled the holes using a micro drilling accessory on the Sherline lathe. I broke my last drill bit, so no more holes until I find some more. Adam
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Yet Another Pandora 3D build
Pirate adam replied to herask's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
This is so much fun to watch. It really makes you feel like you are at the actual shipyard. Amazing work. Adam -
Cutting of frames for the chocks. I cut these using the Sherline mill. I simplified the chocks a bit by not beveling them. I only cut to the depth of what would be the shallower side so as to not expose the nose of the chock when the frames are faired. The chocks are a bit funny looking now due to the excess wood outside the actual frame lines. One side of the chock will be a bit off after fairing, but I don't think they will be especially visible when the frames are glued up anyway. I used regular scarph joints for the top timbers. I will pin them later with copper wire to simulate bolts. Here are two sample frames. With a bit of alcohol just to highlight the joints. I'm pretty happy with the look so far. There are 117 frames to do in total counting the hawse timbers, but the nice thing is they are a great project to work on just a bit a day after work. Adam
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Wow that looks amazing Mark! Great work. Very impressive actually painting it on. Adam
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I forgot to show my high tech gluing setup. I glue them on a small plate of glass and weigh them down with a flashlight.
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Picture with a bit more resolution.
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Here I have begun to glue up the aft cant frames. I will cut the spaces later for the chocks using the mill.
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With the transom shenanigans out of the way I am finally ready to start making frames. Here I have marked out the blanks for the aft cant frames. The black lines are the actual lines for the frames. I added the green lines to make sure I have plenty of wood for fairing the cant frames as well as to make sure the frames are sufficiently tall. Experience tells me that I just can't help myself when it comes to leaving enough wood otherwise. Familiar sight for anyone who has built POF. Adam
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I made a slightly larger building board to provide a bit more room to install the frames at the ends of the model. Long story short, when I setup the new build board I found some issues with the alignment of the transoms and aft fashion piece. I have known for a while that something wasn't right with the alignment, and happy to figure it out before doing a ton more work. I envisioned this would be a problem that would follow me through the whole build, so got out the isopropyl and re-built the transoms and aft fashion pieces. I also used the opportunity to add a 4th filling frame which looks much better to my eyes. Adam
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I think it would be a shame to paint it black. The wood is beautiful. Adam
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I love this. Great work Greg
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It is pretty straightforward. Dividing the circumference in inches by 3.14 will give you the diameter in inches. Then just divide by 48 to get the scale diameter in inches. example: 6 circumference rope. Divide by 3.14 gives 1.91" diameter rope. Divide by 48 to get 0.0398" diameter in real life for 1/48 scale. Adam
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I can verify that the Anatomy of the Ship Armed Transport Bounty book has tables of the various ropes in the rigging. It would make a nice reference for anyone building a model. Adam
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This seems like a very sensible plan for the long term. Getting away from the need to source large quantities of wood should simplify things immensely. I was able to see the 3D printed Syren blocks for the first time at the Northeast clubs show and was pretty blown away. Looking forward to seeing some of the other parts you come up with now that you have mastered the printing technology. Cool thing about moving away from the kits is we will likely see a much bigger variety of models being created by people using Syren parts. Adam
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