Pirate adam
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Everything posted by Pirate adam
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I agree with scrubby427. The warm colors of the model combined with the painting is an amazing look. The metalwork for the pumps is great. It really reminds me of some of the old museum models. Adam
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Ken, I've been watching this log from the beginning. It turned out great. Very cool little ship. Adam
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Happy to see you back at it Mark!
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The split in the planking below the gun ports in the stern view opened up during the dry weather related to our recent arctic blast. Fingers crossed that it closes back up when the weather warms up. I need to take this into account for my next build, because I normally work in the garage where it is cooler and RH is higher. I brought it inside the house to work on the rigging at pretty much the most inopportune time from a climate perspective.
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Almost done! I am still working on the sweeps to put in their racks. Then I will figure out the case situation. Adam
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Richard, This is what I would try. Wait for the varnish to be fully cured. Then give the hull a light sanding with around 600 grit (or maybe slightly coarser) sand paper. Then mask and spray the areas you want white with Tamiya or Mr Hobby primer (they have a white primer). You should be able to paint with just about any paint you want with the primer on and dried. Adam
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I really like the look of the window glass. Adam
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Bill, Stick with it. It will turn out great. The finished galley is a cool little ship. Adam
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Ken, I used the Gutermann thread recommended by Chuck. I haven't had much trouble with gluing with white glue, but it does darken the color a bit. I have used a drop of CA in a couple spots that I really wanted to make sure stayed glued. Next time I am going to be more careful with the heating and stretching step to make sure I don't end up with lines that want to twist when stretched. I had some issues with that on the shrouds. Adam
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All rope was made using the Syren rope rocket. I used the same color rope for the standing rigging, but airbrushed it brown and immediately wiped with a rag. I'm really happy with how that turned out, and I'm planning a rope making day to gear up for future builds. Adam
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Closing in on wrapping up the galley. I am underway with the rigging. Nothing is glued yet, so lots of loose ends of rope. I had a lot of mental debate about mounting the yards inside or outside of the shrouds. I ended up going with the instructions and mounting outside the shrouds. I'll admit I'm not sure I see how this would work in practice, but not sure how it would work the other way either. Next I will move on to making the anchor and the swivel gun mounts.
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I recently had the opportunity to visit Ft. Gaines on Mobile Bay. One of the displays was an old ship's rudder recovered from the bay. It is kind of a cool example of rudder metalwork as well as coppering. Adam
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That's a cool little project. Thank you for sharing!
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Allan, I am not an expert in this area, but I have encountered the same line on my Crocodile draft. I have interpreted it as the top of the moulding that is even with the bottom of the midship rail. Once the moulding diverges from the rail at the waist it continues aft to the quarter galleries and forward to a point above the stem. I'm not sure if that moulding is called the "drift rail?" Adam
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Apple wood also looks really nice if you can find it. Adam
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This is great. I think one of the coolest aspects of this hobby is the number of skills you can try to master along the way. I haven't gotten to the carvings phase, but it definitely will allow you to take your already beautiful model to the next level. Adam
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Greg, You might consider some wireless LED puck lights for the lighting. You could either sit them on top or there are some inexpensive remote control ones that could be stuck to the inside of the case. Adam
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Transom drawing question
Pirate adam replied to Pirate adam's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Thank you druxey and Allan. I am thrilled to get inputs from people with so much experience in this area. Something that blows me away about this hobby is that there are even 3 people on earth that care enough about such an obscure subject to spend time thinking about it on a Saturday morning. I agree that I think this is almost a case of too many references available for one ship. I will go with the contemporary drawing which is consistent with the drawings available online and from the NMM for Crocodile as well as Pelican, Hyeana, and Eurydice. I am blown away by the clarity and beauty of the actual prints from the NMM. I have both Crocodile and HMS Zebra 1777 as well as the Swan books (and the Euryalus books 😀), so I won't be running out of modeling subjects anytime soon. Adam -
Transom drawing question
Pirate adam replied to Pirate adam's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Thank you Allan! That helps confirm I'm not just going crazy. I think I have been double counting in the section about transoms in Steel (wing transom, filling transom, deck transom, transoms below the deck or filling transoms in number) as I add up the wing transom, deck transom, and filler dimensions. Adam -
I have a question for the more experienced plan drafters out there. I am thinking of building a model of the HMS Crocodile of 1781 as a future build. This ship was a Porcupine-class post ship and sister ship of the more famous HMS Pandora. I have the beautiful draft of the ship from the NMM as well as the Pandora Anatomy of the Ship book. I have been studying the draft and the Pandora book, as well as the tables in Steele's, and some of the other drafts online on the NMM site and Wikipedia. One thing I can't seem to figure out is the configuration of the transoms. Both Steele's and the ATS book indicate the ship should have 5 transoms. No matter how I look at the draft, squint my eyes, etc. I only seem to see 4 transoms on any of the historic drafts as seen below. Any thoughts? Am I missing something here?
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Updates. I have most of the work done on the hull. Still some work to make the swivel gun mounts and anchors.
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Nicolas, Your project is really cool. I am interested to see a lot of the work people have been doing with CNC machines. Marsalv’s le Gros Ventre log is one of the best I have seen for showing machine setups. I don’t consider myself an expert by any means, but there are a couple tips I have learned from other modelers on the site with regards to the basic woodworking. The first is that I have moved almost entirely to using chisels for cutting small parts rather than hobby knives. Even inexpensive chisels can be kept insanely sharp, which really helps. It is also easier to cut square edges. The second is to mostly use sandpaper that has been attached to plywood or wood blocks with glue or 2-sided tape. It makes it much easier to sand to lines without rounding the edges. That will help a lot with fit. I don’t think there is anyway around having to do some sanding and manual cutting even with CNC or manual machining. A lot of modelers highlight the edges of planks by simply running over the edge with a dark pencil before gluing the joint. Others have had good luck with tinted glue. Adam
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Congratulations Marsalv! I have learned so much from this build and Pandora. I can't wait to follow your next build from the start. Adam
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I have a lot of experience painting plastic airplane models over the years. I think it is especially important to clean plastic parts if you will be using acrylic paints. There are a several things this helps with: 1) oils from your skin or mould release can prevent the primer or base coat from adhering properly causing sections to peel off later especially if you will be doing any masking. This will cause extreme frustration when it happens. (BTW, you can usually get a do-over with acrylic by soaking the painted part in windex and rinsing the paint off) 2) oils from your skin can leave fingerprints that show up when you paint 3) cleaning helps get rid of hairs, dust, etc. I use liquid dish soap and rinse with cool water. Adam
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This is cool to see a different approach to constructing the hull.
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