mtaylor

It immediately made me think of you and @gjdale.  I'm counting on one of you to make a tiny working steam engine to spin those wheels for me!

Those golden arches are making my cow nervous, Keith.  Remember, we don't use the "B" words around here (Burger, BBQ, Brisket, etc).

Glen, that looks so cool!
 
Cows are naturally pessimistic and rightly so. 
 

Glen, she's a thing of beauty........the ship, and Dimples. 🙂
 
By the way, that video about eating Pringles the "engineering" way was hilarious.

Finishing up the sidewheel subassembly.  First, I cut a slot for the wheels' axle to rest in.  Next was cutting notches in the bulwarks to fit the structure that connects the 2 sidewheels.  Next, I built the structure and attached the sidewheels to complete the subassembly.  Finally, I dropped it in place for a dry-fit test.  So far so good.



 
 
 
At this point, I figured I'd better see if the subassembly would fit thru the bottle's neck.  And......of course it did not.  But it was close and only took a small bit of shaving to make it work.
 
 
 
 
Next to the sidewheels, I think the most iconic thing about the ship is the dual smokestacks.  So I wanted to pay particular attention to them.  These are also subassemblies that will be installed onto the deck inside the bottle.  I had some 4mm diameter brass tube which was a good size for the bulk of the smokestack, but I needed a slightly larger diameter piece for the smokestack to rest in at the base.  I scrounged around and found these stainless steel straws I'd gotten as a weird Christmas gift a few years ago.  They were 6mm in diameter and perfect for what I needed.  Hopefully the person that gave me the straws will not figure out what I used them for!  The 4 vent pipes are 1mm music wire.


 
 
 
Here's everything so far, dry-fit in place.   Mini-Dimples the Ship Inspector finally decided I'd gotten far enough along for her to look things over.  She gave it two horns up, but said she's still skeptical about this thing getting successfully assembled inside the bottle.
 
 
 
 
  
 
 

lovely detail on those paddle wheels.

Here's what I envision Ian and other engineer types doing in their spare time...
 
https://x.com/HumansNoContext/status/1799367028580532379
 

Great job Glen!  I'd have been sorely tempted to 3D print those wheels and covers; maybe the whole ship. 😉 Cheating perhaps......

Mark, it is amazing how complicated this whole flowing structure is.  You are doing a masterful job of drawing out all of the details and sussing through all of the convergent planes.  I’m glad to hear, also, that you are feeling more like yourself these days.

Great beautiful work SJSoane

OH MY Vlad!   you've gone head long into another fantastic build.  You weren't kidding....This build is amazing...your wood working skill is impressive for sure.  And going from drawing to carving and building is just amazing.   
I talked to Rich today and I heard from him you were here.   So glad I did.   He is getting back to his article on Glory.
 
I'm going to follow along here if you don't mind....great work for sure....can't wait for more pics and info.
Good to see you still at work in the shipyard.
 
Rob

We shall see....It was only the first initial sets of chapters.

So I'm building frame 10A.  I had already relabeled mine when you posted this.
I seem to however already have a set of 10A?  All 4 match perfectly.
Hopefully I'm good.

Shawn
 

Bulwarks fittings...the seats, kevels and cleats etc
 
The seats are made from three layers of laser cut parts.  It sets up a sort of "lift" scenario so you can eventually sand the seats to the required shape.  The shape is shown on the plans but the parts kind of dictate the shape which is good.   I used sanding sticks of various coarseness.  Starting with a 200 grit and working my way to a 320 grit.   Then the plastic molding was glued along the top which matches the same molding we just put on the inboard bulwarks.  It was all painted red.  The various stages and parts are shown below.
 

The kevels and cleats are rather simple to make.  They are all laser cut as well.
 

There are two types of kevels.  They are made the same way.  Glue the back piece on the kevel which lifts the timberhead away from the bulwarks.   The char was sanded off and then the timberheads were shaped.  They were shaped on and angle so they have some dimension so they wouldnt appear to be so flat.  I hope that makes sense/  I used small files to do that.  Note the ver delicate and thin laser etched carving details.  I have spent a great deal of time looking at many contemporary models and the details on these small fittings.  Any carved grooves and details are usually very shallow and thin.   Most kit makers go overboard on making these etched details too wide and too deep.  It just looks too kit-like.  They dont look anything like how the original model builders back then carved these details with such skill.   I am making a every effort not to "over-use" the capabilities that our current technologies allow so I can preserve a pretty good resemblance to the old hand-made stuff.   I have been guilty of not doing so and falling into the same trap that other mfg's fall into but I am trying my best this time around.  Note how shallow and thin the carved details are on these kevels.  That is all you really need.  "SUBTLE" was the word of the day for me while drafting those.
 
The kevels were painted red and the bolts simulated with 30 lb. black fishing line.
 
The cleats are self-explanatory.  The char cleaned off and the ends were rounded of a bit.  They were painted red also and some fishing line used to simulate the center bolt.
 

Then they were glued onto the model.   In addition I added the eyebolts needed for the gun tackles.  These were made from 24 gauge black wire in the typical way we do that.   You might notice only two of the ports have the eyebolts and split rings for the breech line of the guns.  That is because there are 4 guns on each side and it is easier to add them to the breach lines first.  So I just drilled the holes for them in the bulwarks for now.   Then I can simply slip the breech lines into position after making the guns and carriages.  NOTE...there is one additional stray eye bolt aft for some rigging.  It is just behind the aft-most kevel.  Dont forget to add that one.  It is shown on sheet three of the plans.
 

The seats were glued in position keeping them in line with that molding along the inner bulwarks.  I located where they would go and then removed a small section of that molding where the seats would be fitted.   I think they turned out quite well.
 

 
I did in the end create the discharge hole for the seats.  I took a cautious approach making them the same way as the scuppers.  In fact the discharge for the seats were made the exact same size.  Right or wrong I do not know...but thats what I ended up doing.  
 
Here are more photos of the kevels and bulwark fittings.  You can just see a whisper of those carved details on the kevels which is un obtrusive and not in your face.  This is actually just like how they look on the contemporary model of Speedwell.



 
Next up will be the eight gun carriages and guns...and rigging them on the model with gun tackles.  That will finish up chapter 8.
 

Thank you Chuck!
 
Best Regards …. Rick

You could give it a few swipes.  But you will be fairing inboard at some point and that will all be removed later.  But its best to get rid of most of it now as it will dirty up your hull.
 
 

Here’s the area I’m asking about, it’s circled. Thank you!
 
Best Regards …. Rick

I dont quite understand the question.  Perhaps a photo?

Chuck,
 
Not to change this fascinating subject, but when removing char from the short frames, is the char removed from the area above the tab? Or is this area going to be covered by other details. It's hard to see in the framing pictures. Thanks!
 
Best Regards .... Rick

Thank you, friends!
 
I begin the construction of the swivel guns: as for the deck guns, I prepared a master with the lathe and from this I make a silicone rubber mould from which I will obtain all 16 guns using an alloy of lead, tin and antimony
 










 

Really like you wood colour pallette, contrasting ladders and ebony pieces on the deck (ebony hatches look especially awesome!).
Will "borrow" a few ideas  

little steps:

A little table addition to bridge the gap between sanding paper and sanded part... just a two piece of plexiglass, glued together for thickness and two holes matching diameter of a sanding cylinder.. suction action of an attached vacuum, keeps the plexiglass very tight...

On the bench.... during action...

All parts are almost done...



Hard to find some hobby time during Euro24...

Happy modelling..

I decided to finish and fit the frames in the front and back of the model first - these frames require more beveling and I want to get this done as soon as possible.

Fantastic work, I am really enjoying watching your progress.