archjofo

@Keith Black @druxey @Thukydides @Dr PR I am very grateful for your interest and the nice comments. I would also like to thank everyone else for the LIKES. Hello Phil, I'm very pleased if my reports are of any use to you. I also benefit from other colleagues. My understanding of a forum of this kind is give and take, to help us all become better model builders. Hopefully the belaying needle can be a solution to your rigging problems. Addition: Securing the ropes of the running rigging with a belaying needle It is obvious to me how the last loop is to be guided when securing the ropes of the running rigging with a belaying needle. However, this is not clear from my previous illustration on this subject. A model maker colleague asked a question on this. In this respect, I would also like to explain this step here with this additional explanation: As can be seen in Fig. 1, the rope can be guided under the last loop with the belaying needle. In the second step, the rope is then unthreaded by pulling it back, if necessary with the help of tweezers in hard-to-reach places. Fig. 3 shows that the belaying needle can simply be pulled out of the loop by tightening the rope. I hope I have explained it clearly enough. For me, these processes are easy to carry out, as I have already done them many times.

Preparing the final rigging I cleaned up my small basement shipyard as much as I could and took the little French girl out of her "exile" (dust cover). She was then positioned on my height-adjustable platform so that she could be accessed from two sides for rigging, as far as space allowed. It has been a long time since I did the final rigging of a model ship (over three decades). So I tried to refresh my modest knowledge of rigging work for the running rigging of sailing ship models, to acquire new knowledge about it and to think about the further process. I had already raised the question in various forums about which direction and order the model should preferably be rigged in? There was a mixed opinion about when to start rigging, whether at the front or the back. However, everyone agreed that rigging should be done from the bottom up. Contemporary works note that the usual rigging process began with the bowsprit. In order to have fewer disruptions caused by ropes that have already been set, I follow the philosophy of starting from the beginning and then working yard by yard from bottom to top and from belaying point to belaying point. For belaying pins and cleats, I use a belaying needle that I had used as a boy when building the "Adler von Lübeck". I made this according to Graupner's instructions from a steel knitting needle that is around 27 cm long and has a handle and is slightly bent at the other end over a length of around 10 mm. I forged out the front end of the bent part and shaped it accordingly with a file. Close to the filed front edge, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 0.5 mm, similar to the eye of a needle. Many people will certainly know that Karl Heinz Marquardt was responsible for the plan processing for Graupner's "Adler von Lübeck" and was involved in the development of the kit. In this respect, I assume that the description for making this belaying needle also comes from him or was suggested by him. He was also an excellent model maker. What I often see is that many model makers mainly use hooks or tweezers for belaying. However, I have managed very well with my homemade belaying needle so far, as the rope can be guided safely and tightly even in hard-to-reach areas. Therefore, I will continue to use it, including for this model. With the next picture, I want to illustrate how this belaying needle is basically used. Following the recommendations of fellow model makers, I also got myself a pair of Castroviejo micro scissors in order to sensibly expand my rigging equipment. In the following picture I show a compilation of my most important tools for rigging: -Belaying needle -Stand for thread rolls -Superglue with cannula (ø 0.3 mm) -Hollow spike, ø 1.2 mm and ø 0.8 mm for splicing -Micro scissors according to Castroviejo -Thread scissors, straight and curved -Tweezers, straight, curved and offset -Scalpel -Shoemaker's wax for "sailor's thread" This article heralds the last chapter of the model building of the French corvette "La Creole" on the long road to the goal. Once again I would like to thank my many companions, with the hope that they will get through the final stretch with me. So, see you soon...

Hello Bob, In my opinion, your model is definitely the L'Astrolabe from 1812. There is a contemporary model of this French corvette in the Musée national de la Marine in Paris. Here is a picture of it:

The Astrolabe, a French corvette, an interesting project.

This is a good learning project for rigging a model ship.

Hello Kortes, I am an admirer of your model-making skills. You have made these carronades with great finesse and precision, like all of your wonderful models. As I have now seen, the upper parts of your carriages are equally strong at the front and rear. As you also value historical accuracy, I did not want to withhold the following information from you. I studied the carronades for the La Créole intensively during construction. Accordingly, I noticed that the upper part of the carriage tapers slightly towards the rear. I have marked this with red lines on the drawing section of the monograph. This taper is also clearly visible on the historical black and white photo of a French carronade.

@Dowmer Hello, Obviously there were two possibilities, as can be seen on the two extracts from the atlas. Basically, I think it is irrelevant whether the guide hole for the stay is at the front or rear. As long as the hole is in the centre, there is no crossing with the bowlines. In this respect, I orientated myself on the original La Creole model. There the stay faces the topgallant mast. I hope I have expressed myself clearly.

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail Here I will show the implementation of the detail for the model of La Créole on a scrap part, as it will be put on later. Next to it is the version of the previous version. As already mentioned, I need an analogous part for the deflection of the bowlines of the mizzen royal sail and the braces of the mizzen royal yard, which is then to be mounted in the rear area of the main topgallant cross trees. Theoretically, I should now be done with the running rigging and have recorded all the blocks that are needed without sails. Many blocks are already attached to the individual yards with the corresponding ropes, as far as it makes sense. Before I take the corvette out of "exile" (dust cover), I will go through all the rigging again and clean the workroom of dust. Then I can finally start with the final rigging. To be continued...

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and main royal sail After four discs were arranged in the appropriate position in the illustration in Atlas du Génie Maritime, Plate 211, I still had to clarify how to proceed with the main topgallant stay. As I remembered having saved other sheets of the Atlas du Génie Maritime on my computer a long time ago, I looked there again for relevant details and the following came to light: Source: Excerpt from Atlas du Génie Maritime This detail was obviously used for larger (Fig. 1) but also for smaller ships (Fig. 2). As is clearly evident from the description, the four disc gates are reserved for bowlines and the guide hole for the topgallant stay (galoche d'etai). After this clarification, I modified my drawing and can then move on to implementation. To be continued...

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail A model building colleague made a suggestion for the guidance of the bowlines. So I researched the arrangement of the discs again and saw an important detail in the Atlas du Génie Maritime. I have looked at plate 211 many times, but only found this interesting detail after a targeted search. So I will modify the alignment of the discs accordingly. Many thanks again to Robbi for the suggestion.

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail Thankfully, I received a photo of the rear area of the fore cross trees from a nice restorer at the Musée de la Marine in Paris. There you can see the routing of the bowlines of the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail. As already described, I assume that discs were actually used here to redirect these ropes. It is also clear from the photo that the main topgallant stay was also guided over them. Accordingly, I made a drawing of how this wooden part might have looked from my point of view, and thus functionally meets the requirements for a good and safe redirection. I will try to make the part like this. To redirect the bowlines for the mizzen royal sail and the braces for the mizzen royal yard, an analogous part is needed for the rear area of the main cross trees. To be continued...

@wefalck Hello Eberhard, yes, I am very pleased that the ladies have so much patience with me. If you ever meet them again, it would be nice if you could give them my heartfelt thanks again (I have already done so several times by email). @jdbondy Hello JD, Thank you for your interest and comment. @dvm27 Hello Greg, Thank you very much for your positive comment. I also see the chaffing and the increased effort of replacing the ropes as a problem. This can be counteracted with discs. @shipmodel Hello Dan, Thank you in advance for your interest and support of my work. In my opinion, the guidance of the bowlines cannot be compared to that of yard halyards. The bowlines are always moving, whereas the yard halyards are static and are therefore subject to increased friction. As already shown, there are proven examples of the bowlines being redirected with discs, see my post in #2357. What further suggests that this is a simplification of the original model is shown in the following image section of the fore topgallant yardarm. There, too, there is only a hole instead of a disc. Source: La Créole Musée de la Marine in Paris What I have already written about this and these further thoughts lead me to believe that discs were used here.

Addition: Guide of the bowlines for the main topgallant sail - and the main royal sail Today I received a few photos of the fore crosstree from the original model of La Créole for the guide of the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail. Thankfully, a nice restorer from the Paris Marine Museum went to the depot and took the relevant photos at my request. Here is one of these photos with a direct view of the rear area of the cross tree. As expected, you can see a wooden attachment for guiding the bowlines. You cannot see discs for deflection here, presumably the ropes are simply led through a hole. I think that discs were used in the original here, and that the model is probably a simplification by the model maker at the time. Whether wrong or right, in any case I am making an assumption and will try to implement this detail with discs.

@Wishmaster Thank you very much for your praise, it makes me happy and motivates me. But I also don't want to miss the opportunity to thank everyone else for the LIKES. Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail - and the main royal sail Following a tip from a model-building colleague, I was able to find the following in K. H. Marquardt's book "Mastung und Takelung von Schiffen des 18 Jahrhunderts" on the question of the guidance of the main topgallant bowlines and the main royal bowlines: This is how I interpreted the hidden detail in the image section of the fore cross trees of the La Creole. Since Marquardt referred to Darcey Lever in his illustration, I did some more research and found this: In his book "The young sea officer's sheet anchor; or, A key to the leading of rigging, and to practical seamanship" you can read that sometimes the space between the rear trestle trees was filled with a piece of wood in which there were 4 discs. Two for bowlines and two for braces, as long as they came from the front. In the case of the La Creole, however, there would be four bowlines. Now I will think about how I should design this detail. Unfortunately, I haven't heard back from the museum in Paris yet. Best regards

Continuation: Further blocks in the area of the bowsprit There was uncertainty about two ropes. In this context, I then researched the fore topmast staysail stay in detail in the documents available to me. I included the advice of fellow model makers in my considerations. So I investigated the possibility of whether a fore topmast staysail stay was rigged on the La Créole. As so often, I found crucial information in the book - The Model of the Brigg Irene - by E. W. Petrejus. At the beginning of the 19th century, few staysails were set on the stays, but instead were used on staysail stays and preventer stays. Accordingly, I have come to the conclusion that it was quite possible and probable that a fore topmast staysail stay was rigged on the La Créole and have therefore added the explanations of the image section. Unfortunately, I have not yet received a response from the restorer at the Paris Marine Museum regarding the bowines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail. I hope something will come of it. See you then...