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@Keith Black Thank you for your nice comment. Continuation: Addition of the lifts of the lower yards – Balancines de basse vergue In the last post I described why and how I will carry out the tackles of the lifts from the lower yards. I have drawn a corresponding sketch for this. First I made a swivel for this, as can be seen in the following picture. It was made in the same way as the swivel hooks for the topsail halyards. Two opposing notches are filed into a brass disk d = 0.3 mm with a ø 2.3 mm and a bore ø 0.8 mm, which then accommodate the ø 0.4 mm thick brass bow wire for soldering. The eyebolt is secured so that it can rotate freely with a soldered brass sleeve. Next, the double and single blocks for the tackles have to be made. I will again equip the larger blocks for the lifts of the main and fore yard with real disks. At this point I would like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a good start into the New Year!

Hello Tim, this will be a very nice model. Here you can see how a fake splice is made. Follow the LINK.

@dvm27 Hello Greg, I'm extremely pleased that such a profound and excellent model maker sees it the same way as I do. In 150 years there probably won't be much left of the silk rigging. But since I have documented everything in detail, the model could be easily restored ... 😉

Addition of the lifts of the lower yards - Balancines de basse vergue Usually, as can be read in the specialist literature in the book "Manuel de gréement" by F. A. Coste, Paris 1829, the lifts of the lower yards were secured using tackles, each at the height of the 2nd shroud of the respective lower mast. This is also how J. Boudriot illustrated it in the monograph on La Créole, as shown below. Source: Monograph La Créole by Jean Boudriot On the original Paris model, I identified the lifts as shown in a diagram: Source: Musée national de la Marine de Paris - La Créole However, no tackles can be seen there. The lifts were simply attached to the upper part of the tackle ropes at the height of the 2nd shroud. This easier handling of the lifts could have been due to the size of the ship, or is it a simplification by the contemporary model maker? We will never be able to find out. However, I find this type of seamanlike handling of the lifts rather impractical and have therefore decided to use tackles, whose ropes can then be properly secured on the inside. I wouldn't exactly describe my model as a "pile of evidence" as a dear forum colleague once described his project. However, I have implemented a large number of details on the model that seemed plausible to me after research. I cannot provide 100% proof of this, but solutions that actually existed and generally fit into the temporal and country-specific context of La Créole. In this respect, I will basically attach the lifts as follows: Source: Excerpt from Atlas du Génie Maritime annexe N.1, Pl. 20 However, I will only use a double block at the top and a single block at the bottom for the tackle. To be continued...

Congratulations, excellent work and wonderful model!

Hello colleagues, Today I would like to thank you all for the positive reactions to my last video. Because of my son's house construction, which of course requires a lot of my time as a retired architect, I have hardly had time to do any model building lately. So I at least enjoyed putting together a video. But things will continue here soon...

@matiz Hello Tiziano, thank you for your nice comment. I'm particularly pleased to receive such praise from such a fantastic model maker. Of course I would also like to thank everyone else for the LIKES. Hello fellow model builders, today I would like to present to you my new video about the yards and spars of the La Créole. I hope you enjoy it: LINK

@albert @64Pacific Thank you for your interest and the nice comments, and thank you all for the LIKES. Topsail-halyard traveller – Gouvernail de drisse There was something else, wasn't there? I have now made the missing 5 topsail-halyard travelers out of brass to complete the set. To produce the guide rings required for this with a diameter of 1.5 mm (incorrectly indicated in the drawing as 1.2 mm) and with a bore of 0.8 mm, the modifications made (new electric motor with speed control and collets) to my Unimat SL served me very well. I am currently sorting out the continuation of the lifts for the lower yards. See you soon...

A small update: Completion: Topsail halyards The tackles for the topsail halyards are now all rigged. See you soon...

@wefalck Hello Eberhard, I think it would not be a good idea to introduce the French (French publisher) to the rigging practices of the French Navy at the beginning of the 19th century for model making. @Erik W Hello Erik, I'm pleased that my pictures, especially of the rigging work, are helping you with your model building. As I also benefit a lot from pictures and construction reports from other model builders for my project, I want to give something back. It's a give and take that benefits model building as a whole and allows it to develop further. Ultimately, we all have great joy in the results that we have created with our own hands and can look at. @dvm27 Hello Greg, I'm happy to comply with your request. Here is a picture with a ruler: I used two methods to make the thimbles, although I actually only work with the simpler one. I also make the thimbles in different diameters, depending on the requirements of the rigging. Here are two places in my construction report where I report on the production of the thimbles: LINK LINK

@druxey @Jim Lad @Thukydides @jdbondy Thank you all for your interest. @Thukydides Yes, that's right, the hooks are made of brass. I made some hooks myself out of brass as a sample. A jewelry foundry then created wax models from the samples on my behalf and then cast the hooks using the lost wax process. I hope I was able to explain it clearly. @jdbondy Yes, it's really hard to see in the picture. This is a jeweler's saw that I hold onto the rotating workpiece with a very fine-toothed saw blade. It works very well.

@Thukydides @davyboy @jdbondy @Mike Y Your praise and your kind words encourage me in my work. Thank you for that and thank you to the others for the LIKES. Continuation: Additional accessories for the topsail halyards - swivel hooks In the meantime, I have made all 6 swivel hooks for the topsail halyards. The length for the main topsail yards and fore topsail yards is 8.2 mm. The swivel hooks for the mizzen topsail yards were proportionally made a little smaller (L = 6.9 mm). I tried to make these hooks based on a drawing in the Atlas du Génie Maritime. Source: Excerpt from Atlas du Génie Maritime annexe N.1, Pl. 2 Here, with this photo montage, I would like to illustrate the individual production steps. To conclude this short update, the finished, blackened hooks. See you soon...

Continuation: Further accessories for the topsail halyards, including leader (guide bar) - Gouvernail de drisse The leaders are another accessory required for the topsail halyards. This is a detail that is not always visible on all models, but is an important part of the rigging. Under the considerable force required to set a topsail, the halyard tends to twist and become unclear. To prevent this, the upper halyard block was guided to the topmast backstay with a guide bar and a swivel hook was used at the channel. In the following, I have compiled a list of different types of guide bars that were used towards the end of the 18th century and in the 19th century. However, they all served the same purpose. For my model of La Créole, I naturally used the original Parisian model and the Manuel du Gabier. Compared to the original model, however, I added the swivel hook and made a longer strop, which made it possible to keep the lower block free of the bulwark and the tackles of the backstays. I then executed this rigging arrangement according to the following drawing. I made all the elements in advance to see how it would look overall. If the “prototype” fits, all the other necessary parts for all the topsail halyards will be made. Provisionally arranged, it then looks like this: I had already made the swivel hooks in connection with the stay tackles, so that went quickly. Making the guide bar was also not a big job. For the sake of strength, I hard-soldered all the connections of these components. It was a little more difficult to attach the guide bar to the topsail halyard. It would be unsightly if over-dimensional knots were to impair the filigree structure. I have already considered how I can then attach the halyard to the model. In this respect, I have to finish one side completely as shown and then serve the appropriate places in advance, such as the passage through the tye blocks and the other end of the halyard. Then the rope of the topsail halyard is pulled through the tye blocks, then the eye with thimble is completed, taking the upper block into account. Finally, I have to dress a short remaining section freehand and attach the guide bar. Certainly not an easy task on the model, but people also need certain challenges ...😊 To be continued ... PS: I don't know if the term "guide bar" is correct? I would be grateful if someone could tell me the correct term.

@Dziadeczek Hello, of course you can ask questions and I'll be happy to answer them. This forum is intended to be a forum for professional exchange. I use serviceberry for the blocks. This wood is very similar to pear wood in terms of structure, fine grain and hardness.

@davyboy Hello Dave, Thank you very much for the hint, but unfortunately I couldn't find anything about it in my German version. I have finally found something on the subject of attaching the standing parts of braces to stays. First of all, I will show you a historical example of a knot: Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime It is not clear what type of knot it is. On the other hand, you can see a possible way of doing this on the mainstay of the replica of the L'Hermione: Source: Internet (excerpt) If I am not completely mistaken, this is a stopper's hitch or rolling hitch (formerly also called a magnus hitch), in French Noued coulant or Amarrage a' fouet. I know from the official website for the L'Hermione that the riggers use the following when rigging the L'Hermione: also based my work on the book "The Ashley Book of Knots", which also shows this type of knot. But they are also mentioned in the Biddlecomb, Lever or Steel, as well as in F. A. Coste (French technical literature from 1829). However, I cannot find any clear assignments for a specific purpose here. It is always kept rather general. But ultimately it does seem plausible to me to attach these standing parts of the braces in this way.