archjofo

@dvm27 Hello Greg, Thanks for your interest, and I'm genuinely happy if I can give a master model maker some inspiration. Obviously, my translation is a little misleading, so I apologize for that. But I tried to explain that the ends of the truss pendants with the integrated thimbles don't go through the sheaves in the trestle trees. Therefore, the thimbles can only be inserted after the ends of the truss pendants have been pulled through, as in the original. For a better understanding, I've illustrated this situation with a picture. I think this type of truss pendant is probably very specific to French rigging in the early 19th century.

@wefalck @jdbondy @matiz @albert Thank you very much for your encouragement. It's very motivating, especially when it comes to the very tricky work in the rigging. You always have to be extremely careful not to get caught on something. Also, many thanks to everyone for the likes. Continuation: Attaching the fore yard - Vergue de misaine - with the running rigging Attaching the seizings to the slings was child's play compared to tying thimbles to the ends of the truss pendants. The prepared truss tackles will then be hooked into these thimbles. Therefore, the thimbles could only be tied in afterward. Before doing so, a section of the serving at the rope ends had to be removed. As already mentioned, I then hooked the prepared truss tackles into these thimbles and the corresponding eyebolts on the cap and led the running ropes down over redirection blocks to the fife rail behind the foremast for belaying. More on this soon...

@jdbondy @Knocklouder Thank you for your interest and the nice comments. Also, thank you all for the likes. Attaching the Yards with Running Rigging: Foreyard - Vergue de misaine The final rigging of the model of La Créole began with the attachment of the fore yard and running rigging. The first step is to suspend the yard using the slings. These consisted of strong ropes with a diameter of 43 mm (0.90 mm in 1:48), fully served. While jeer blocks were probably a permanent part of the rigging in the past, towards the end of the 18th century the French began removing the jeer blocks after hoisting the lower yards, as they realized they were not absolutely necessary for holding the yards. Thus, the slings carry the weight of the yard. This was certainly a relief and an advantage when sailing sharply. For the model, I first provisionally positioned the foreyard using the lifts, so that I could then place the slings around the mast and connect them using seizing. The required seizing must be applied directly to the model. Getting this done cleanly and correctly will certainly not be easy. But more on that soon...

Hello, This will be an interesting model ship, with lots of insight. Sorry, I may have missed it in your post. What plan are you using to build it from scratch?

Wonderful cleats !

Very smart and clever the way you made the carriage wheels and the trunnion caps. But aren't the carriage wheels a bit too small? I think the drawing shows different proportions.

@Keith Black @druxey @Thukydides @Dr PR I am very grateful for your interest and the nice comments. I would also like to thank everyone else for the LIKES. Hello Phil, I'm very pleased if my reports are of any use to you. I also benefit from other colleagues. My understanding of a forum of this kind is give and take, to help us all become better model builders. Hopefully the belaying needle can be a solution to your rigging problems. Addition: Securing the ropes of the running rigging with a belaying needle It is obvious to me how the last loop is to be guided when securing the ropes of the running rigging with a belaying needle. However, this is not clear from my previous illustration on this subject. A model maker colleague asked a question on this. In this respect, I would also like to explain this step here with this additional explanation: As can be seen in Fig. 1, the rope can be guided under the last loop with the belaying needle. In the second step, the rope is then unthreaded by pulling it back, if necessary with the help of tweezers in hard-to-reach places. Fig. 3 shows that the belaying needle can simply be pulled out of the loop by tightening the rope. I hope I have explained it clearly enough. For me, these processes are easy to carry out, as I have already done them many times.

Preparing the final rigging I cleaned up my small basement shipyard as much as I could and took the little French girl out of her "exile" (dust cover). She was then positioned on my height-adjustable platform so that she could be accessed from two sides for rigging, as far as space allowed. It has been a long time since I did the final rigging of a model ship (over three decades). So I tried to refresh my modest knowledge of rigging work for the running rigging of sailing ship models, to acquire new knowledge about it and to think about the further process. I had already raised the question in various forums about which direction and order the model should preferably be rigged in? There was a mixed opinion about when to start rigging, whether at the front or the back. However, everyone agreed that rigging should be done from the bottom up. Contemporary works note that the usual rigging process began with the bowsprit. In order to have fewer disruptions caused by ropes that have already been set, I follow the philosophy of starting from the beginning and then working yard by yard from bottom to top and from belaying point to belaying point. For belaying pins and cleats, I use a belaying needle that I had used as a boy when building the "Adler von Lübeck". I made this according to Graupner's instructions from a steel knitting needle that is around 27 cm long and has a handle and is slightly bent at the other end over a length of around 10 mm. I forged out the front end of the bent part and shaped it accordingly with a file. Close to the filed front edge, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 0.5 mm, similar to the eye of a needle. Many people will certainly know that Karl Heinz Marquardt was responsible for the plan processing for Graupner's "Adler von Lübeck" and was involved in the development of the kit. In this respect, I assume that the description for making this belaying needle also comes from him or was suggested by him. He was also an excellent model maker. What I often see is that many model makers mainly use hooks or tweezers for belaying. However, I have managed very well with my homemade belaying needle so far, as the rope can be guided safely and tightly even in hard-to-reach areas. Therefore, I will continue to use it, including for this model. With the next picture, I want to illustrate how this belaying needle is basically used. Following the recommendations of fellow model makers, I also got myself a pair of Castroviejo micro scissors in order to sensibly expand my rigging equipment. In the following picture I show a compilation of my most important tools for rigging: -Belaying needle -Stand for thread rolls -Superglue with cannula (ø 0.3 mm) -Hollow spike, ø 1.2 mm and ø 0.8 mm for splicing -Micro scissors according to Castroviejo -Thread scissors, straight and curved -Tweezers, straight, curved and offset -Scalpel -Shoemaker's wax for "sailor's thread" This article heralds the last chapter of the model building of the French corvette "La Creole" on the long road to the goal. Once again I would like to thank my many companions, with the hope that they will get through the final stretch with me. So, see you soon...

Hello Bob, In my opinion, your model is definitely the L'Astrolabe from 1812. There is a contemporary model of this French corvette in the Musée national de la Marine in Paris. Here is a picture of it:

The Astrolabe, a French corvette, an interesting project.

This is a good learning project for rigging a model ship.

Hello Kortes, I am an admirer of your model-making skills. You have made these carronades with great finesse and precision, like all of your wonderful models. As I have now seen, the upper parts of your carriages are equally strong at the front and rear. As you also value historical accuracy, I did not want to withhold the following information from you. I studied the carronades for the La Créole intensively during construction. Accordingly, I noticed that the upper part of the carriage tapers slightly towards the rear. I have marked this with red lines on the drawing section of the monograph. This taper is also clearly visible on the historical black and white photo of a French carronade.

@Dowmer Hello, Obviously there were two possibilities, as can be seen on the two extracts from the atlas. Basically, I think it is irrelevant whether the guide hole for the stay is at the front or rear. As long as the hole is in the centre, there is no crossing with the bowlines. In this respect, I orientated myself on the original La Creole model. There the stay faces the topgallant mast. I hope I have expressed myself clearly.

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail Here I will show the implementation of the detail for the model of La Créole on a scrap part, as it will be put on later. Next to it is the version of the previous version. As already mentioned, I need an analogous part for the deflection of the bowlines of the mizzen royal sail and the braces of the mizzen royal yard, which is then to be mounted in the rear area of the main topgallant cross trees. Theoretically, I should now be done with the running rigging and have recorded all the blocks that are needed without sails. Many blocks are already attached to the individual yards with the corresponding ropes, as far as it makes sense. Before I take the corvette out of "exile" (dust cover), I will go through all the rigging again and clean the workroom of dust. Then I can finally start with the final rigging. To be continued...

Continuation: Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and main royal sail After four discs were arranged in the appropriate position in the illustration in Atlas du Génie Maritime, Plate 211, I still had to clarify how to proceed with the main topgallant stay. As I remembered having saved other sheets of the Atlas du Génie Maritime on my computer a long time ago, I looked there again for relevant details and the following came to light: Source: Excerpt from Atlas du Génie Maritime This detail was obviously used for larger (Fig. 1) but also for smaller ships (Fig. 2). As is clearly evident from the description, the four disc gates are reserved for bowlines and the guide hole for the topgallant stay (galoche d'etai). After this clarification, I modified my drawing and can then move on to implementation. To be continued...