Omega1234

Thank you very much David,
 
there are so many nice places in the world I have not seen yet, and I often look up the cities or states where my fellow modelers are located in, just to get a Impression of how wide this lovely forum is spread around the globe
 
Nils

Thanks guys for your kind words and comments!
 
It is time to write some update. Next I was building the bulwarks. To support them as rigidly as possible, 1,5 mm steel pins were glued into the holes provided at the edge of the deck. On those pins came bulwark supporting pieces cut from solid birch. And finally planks for bulwarks were installed:
 

 
At the same time the stem, keel and sternpost were cut from solid birch, sanded and glued. The whole hull was then coloured with oak stain and sanded lightly to represent somewhat weathered outlook:
 

 

Thank you for your notes, Harvey and Jud.
 
Actually, I intend to temporary fix stand on temporary working panel min 70-80 cm long  and  min 20-30 cm wide , and after all done, to use mechanical screws embedded on way I show on picture to fix stand on final board - floor of future glass cage. I was thinking a lot about lever forces which appears manipulating with distant tops of spars yards and masts. Also I am considering solution to make stand wider a bit on down side. Already told story about war between elegance and stability
 
During thinking process, I am playing with carving knifes I have got for some birthday from kids ( Shame on me, I opened it up only yesterday  )

Lawrence,
 
thank you so much your kind words wich are very much appreciated.
Wishing you and your Family a wonderful Christmas time, and a good start for 2016, your freind
 
Nils

Thank you Patrick, George, Cees and Anthony for your very kind words and thanks to all for clicking the like button.
 
Picturesque eh Patrick, well yeah, it livens it up a little    They did use paint and a lot of carvings all around that were also painted.  I kinda want to make it look like how these ships were painted in the mid-17th century. 
 
Okay, I finished painting the starboard side, except for a few touchups that side done.  The greyed-down green looks pretty good on her.  I have to agree with Jan and Hans, it looks much better then before.  It even matches pretty close to the color chart I got from Ab Hooving.  Now on to the port side.
 
But before I turn the build dock around I wanted to make the galley chimney.  That'll be placed on the quarter deck against the port side bulwark, it's easier to reach it from the starboard side.  I first made a rough sketch with the measurements and proceeded to cut me some wood parts.  I used small pieces of basswood for the base and top with 1 mm birch plywood for the sides.  The swivel hood has also a base of basswood with 1/2 mm plywood for the sides.  The curved top is some shaved down pine to 1/4 mm.  The 1/2 mm plywood is just too stiff to make the curve.  
 
These chimneys were removable and a water tight hatch closed the hole in the deck.  I'm just going to cement this thing to the deck and forego cutting the hole in the deck with the coamings and the hatch - - at this stage o the game.  It'll be painted with the cherry like color paint I used for the railing caps.  No fancy carvings on this thing, I'm cheap
 
So, this is as far as I got in the last few days.  I don't know If I can do work tomorrow though, it's gotten very cold here the last few days.  We'll see.
 

Gwen looked at it and liked it very much.  Of course she also looked for errors an found a fe spots I missed - - - on the underside of the railing caps.  Those are the tough-ups I mentioned. 
 

 

 

 

 

I couldn't get the starboard door off and may have to use some stronger persuasion methods.  Oh well, in that case I'll most likely have to re-cement the hinges.  
 

This shows the sketch with the parts I cut.  That little pyramid like thingy in the center of the base is for the top of the chimney where the sided are cemented to. There'll be another thin square piece of wood cemented to that for the cap to rotate on. 
 

This shows the chimney base all cemented together with the rotatable cap in progress.  I left the cap base attached to the strip of wood for easy handling.  The top part of the cap is cemented only to it's base.  I'l' have to gently persuade it to lay down nicely on the sides.  I'm using CA gel glue for this. 
 
Cheers, 

Outstanding work Piet!! The paint job really makes her stand out nicely! 

Beautiful work, Piet.  The paint makes everything pop. 

Hoi Piet, what a beauty.
 
Gr. Jos.

I echo everyone else Piet,  The colors really bring it to life.
David B

Wow ,brilliant workmanship ,neat clean lines,sorry I missed so much ,Edwin

Death star?  Mark, don't shoot yourself in the foot.
 
Tom

I'm still thinking sharks with laser beams!!!! After all, you have an extra now.
 
Dr. Evil
 

I need help or better to say different opinion
As this isn't a project on real existed boat (Lady Nelson is in fact imaginary or better to say generic ship from that period) and as I decided to give it the name of one of similar HM cutters from the list of lost boats I am thinking about some modifications.
I noticed that in the biggest part of ships the masts and bowsprits are a bit different of the ones from LN drawings, I think that is easiest and simply interpretation of that parts.
In fact I refer to the terminal parts of mast (excuse me for my terminology) where the lover part is connected to the upper part and the part of the bowsprit inside the boat.
I noticed that in other models this parts aren't with circular section but squared and I have intention to do it in that mode.

Going to meet final solution for standing, I made some test - drawings
 
First, I found my old CS plans, and copied curvature from adequate ribs, draw something by them, scanned it, import on Adobe Ilustrator as background, and start drawing over them on new layer
 
Here is how far I got - just preliminary drawing
 

 
Red marks are for future screws, toward hull - screws for wood, down - I plan to take mechanical screws 
 
Main idea is to fix standing in upper part to hull permanent, and to fix standing in lower part temporary for some massive panel board, thinking how to get it easy to replace that board with final board when Her Glass Cage will be done. Yes, invisible masked screw covered by veneer, with unscrew from down side.
 
I think it will be nice to put "Star of India" on outside panels of standing
 
Maybe there will be some additional carvings and relief around "Star". Maybe.
 
Maybe I`ll just paint standing black as hull, and add some "golden"  ornaments, similar to ornaments on bow and stern
 
have to think about a while

Looks good Nenad.
 
One suggestion-if you can, make the vertical parts of the stand shorter, so the model sits closer to the ground. I find that longer stand supports tend to make the model easy to fall over (especially with the spars and rigging you'll be adding).
 
Just a thought.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

The stand looks good as is. Would be more stable if the bottom members of your stand were wider, you are going to have spars on the masts so width of the bottom of the stand could be just a bit shorter than the spars. You have all that space below the rig to work with, so use it to stabilize your Cutty Sark. Another option, leave the stand as designed and attach it to a wide dense and finished board with a plaque. Admire your ability to be innovative and persistent, you have a world wide bunch of people waiting for your progress posts.

Thank you very much Richard,
 
Nils

Dankeschön Dirk,
 
I much appreciate your comment..
 
Nils

Oh what a beautiful ship.  You've really done yourself proud.
 
Bob

A real nice comment Bob,
 
thank you very much,....
and I`m happy that non of the intended details needed to be given up along the way. I have the complete rigging in polyester thread, hoping that this may not be a disadvantage versa Cotton based thread, due to ultraviolet radiation by sunlight over the years
 
Nils

Crackers,
 
thanks for this Input, (beeswax)  I did`nt know that before in order to prevent radiation weakening dammage, and will Keep it in mind. now`s too late for my rigging anyhow....
The main reason I use Polyester thread is, the "dead material" dos`nt sag and by thinning out the Ends per gastourch when fiddeling into the block`s sheaveholes I have given up that fiddeling- in procedure with ordenary cotton thread.
 
Nils

Nils,  What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be.  Thanks for letting us tag along.

thank you very much Steve,
 
you`re allways welcome, glad you like the build....
 
Nils

Last Night, Before I got to carried away, I decided to seal up the inside of the Hull with Titebond 3 ( Brushed on ). When I awoke this morning I decided to paint the Bilge ( Grey ). I then ( while the paint was drying ) turned my attention to finishing up the framing for the Mast step. I then glued the Birch on to the forward Bulkhead. Next will be to finish the floor framing in the Cockpit. Here are the results 

Nice work, Denis! Masting and rigging's next, I guess?