Omega1234

Fantastic that you're back at it, again, Michael!  I look forward to following along, especially as your cutter is one hell of a beauty.
 
Cheers and all the best.
 
Patrick

Hi Mike
 
Well done. That's one hell of a good looking deck!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Ahem Dimitris....did you say a 'small update'...?
 
As far as I can see, there's nothing small about what you've achieved. Damn good stuff!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

hi Frank......I have to do something with wood to keep my sanity     thanks for the good word     the Goth is still alive 

Nice Daniel!  Your thread is giving me a good kick in the pants to get started on my scratch SIB.

Hi all - 
 
Thanks for the likes and compliments, as always.  
 
Nils - they are 1/200 or 1/192 (1/16"), and they are not that great for their price.  I don't think I have a line on 1/144 scale figures.  I'll check some of my sources and get back to you if I find any.
 
Dan

Very happy to have found this log even as you have finished the model. Spectacular model and build photos, Nils!

Thanks very much Greg,
 
The model is displayed in a glass case in my work room, I`m glad you like it
 
Nils

Another thing I did different was I didn't make any kind of jig or base to hold the ship down while I worked on it. Just wanted to try it to see easy or hard it would be this way. I was able to do it but I highly recommend not doing it this way It was much more irritating- especially doing the rigging.  After gluing the sea baser in. The !st bulb out of the pack of 4 bought this year was found broken open one morning much like the picture before showed. That was now 5 bulbs broken. Got the 6th one out & for the 6th time started it all over again. Began to wonder if this would be possible at all, Repeated all these steps again & was now needing to figure out what I would do for the sea. After test fitting the ship in the neck - you guessed it- another break. This time it was just the neck itself. Very frustrated I was about to give up. Then I looked at the thin metal decorative cap that goes over the neck that holds the wire for hanging the ornament. When this piece is on it would completely hide this break. I decided I would finish this build & epoxy the neck back on & hide it all with the cap afterwards. The opening was still the same except it had a sharp edge I would need to be very careful with. I went with it......
 

Got a different set of Christmas bulbs made by a different company from a different store this year, Began the process over again. glued the bottom label disc in. Painted the space between, got the sea bed base in. The Rouse Simmons carried Christmas trees so I wanted to show some on this build. Made some Christmas trees to put on deck by trimming the tip of a pipe cleaner- (being a pipe smoker I've got these laying around). Clipped them off & painted them. They were shipped bundled by tying them up with ropes so I rapped some very thin thread around them.
 

Patrick, Nils – thank you guys! ...
... and thanks everyone who visiting and tracking this workshop. Always greatly appreciated!
 
Below you will find the next intermediate stage after sanding.
 

 
 
 
 
 
All the best,
Mike

Amazing and beautiful work Dan. Just what we have come to expect from you.

Nils,
Congratulations on a very fine model. I can't believe I missed this blog until now.  
 
Well done, a pleasure to read the blog.
 
Dan.

Hi Dan,
 
thanks for dropping in and coming aboard the "Pamir"
I`m glad glad that you enjoyed the build log, together with the "Gorck Fock II" model These were my first two tallships.
I also very much enjoyed your super looking dioramas
 
Nils

Nice work on the splice Vaddoc.
 
Michael

Hi Dan,
 
fantastic looking and built Details, you really have an eye for These Special touches.   In what scale are your Preiser figurines ?
 
For my KWdG I`m looking out for 1:144 figurines in 1900 turn of the century fashions. Preiser has beautiful Solutions though ,but they are only in scale 1:100, what a pitty 
 
Nils

Dan I am enjoying all the details and research that you are chronicling in this build, beautiful work all round.
 
Michael

I'm following along and all I can think is "just unbelievable".   Wonderful work, Dan.

Hi Micheal, Piet and Dan,
 
many thanks for Kind comments and suggestions for the painting, that is very much appreciated.
Also many thanks to all the "likes"
 
Michael,
the trimming line bits are tapered a Little bit and then jamed and squeezed into the insert tubes. After that they will be cut off at the "porthole face" and then sinked in a bit. It`s the first time I do it this way (instead of portholes with flange) because the actual ship`s portholes were flush with the hull`s skin
 
Piet,
You seem have a lot of experience with the requirements for model painting. There is probably o lot of "learn by doing" involved in your techniques, and thanks so much for sharing this
 
Dan,
thanks for your sharing your method with the "rubber cement", that technique is also and absolute worth a  test Trial, will Keep in mind...., thanks for sharing
 
 
Nils

Hi Vaddoc
 
I love your attention to detail and commitment to accuracy. Please keep the updates coming, because I really enjoy following along.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Marvellous details! A true masterpiece in the making.

Hi Dave
 
I agree with you, but the Cheerful cause is worthwhile and like you, I'm also keen to see the Doc's reaction when you present it to him.
 
Then, it'll be back to the SOS build, for sure.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Ben
 
Once again, it's marvellous how you're able to break a really complex object into its barest sub-parts and tackle each part systematically. It makes for a very convincing and authentic completed unit, when all the parts are out together. A really nice job!
 
Also, have a great two week trip visiting your families.
 
I look forward to your next update.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hi Nils,
 
Yes, painting can be a real challenge. Not only the choice of colors to "match" the original but the application as well.  A good paint job is all preparation and not the least is masking.  The most troublesome are around rivets and seems.  I must have painted over 50 airplanes in my career and spend many painstaking hours in making sure that all the rivets and lap seems would not allow paint to seep under the tape.  I used of course production masking tape and paint guns that supplied 17 cubit feet of paint at about 45 to 60 PSI.  
No matter what kind of paint, could be lacquer, acrylic, enamel, epoxy, I put first a thin coat of paint over the area of the masking tape at 90 degrees to the tape at low pressure and volume.  Checking again for areas where the tape came undone and pressing that doen again.
For the enamels, acrylics and epoxy paints I let this get sticky then follow-up with another thin "dust" coat of paint over the entire area to be painted.  Let this get sticky as well then a full coat.  Let this setup and follow with a final coat if needed.
For lacquer, well that's another story and method.  Hey, I painted a car once with that stuff, 18 coats!!!  Hand-subbed between the last 8.  Too labor intensive and expensive - - - for the customer.
 
I also hope that painting the finish coats on unprimed metal will be successful for you. No matter how good the "stickiness" of the paint seems to be a metal primer is chemically made to adhere to metal best AND also give the finishing paint a better medium to stick to.  But, then again, your model will not be subject to any wear and tear.
 
Cheers,
 

Thanks so very much for all the likes and your helpful hints.
 
@ Hans: Yeah, the Spanish and Portuguese were a bother in those days of yore but with the armament on this ship she was no match for them.  It was the English whom to be watchful for 
 
@ Jan: Yup, that's a picture I can use to try and match the green.  The red eh - - I used the red paint for our front door of the house (that still needs to be painted).  Looked good at the time    I'll be going to the craft / art store tomorrow on my back from the doctor's office.  No, nothing serious, just a visit prior to my 3 month cancer check to see if it's still gone.  Now comes the fun in mixing and matching 
 
@ Nils: Thanks for dropping in and your kind words.  Temporary set-backs are part of the game and I really didn't expect the glues and cement not wanting to adhere to brass.  This morning I found one pintle popped of - - arch  .  
 
@ Amazon:  Hey Dirk, good seeing you back in my shipyard!  How have you been, I missed you my friend but often thought about you.  Yes, the round stanchions have crossed my mind several times but when I use them here then the railings don't match the rest of the railings on the ship.  Would it be noticeable?  Most likely not and it would simplify my work.  I need to sleep on it for a while before I makeup my mind what to do.  
 
 
This morning I took a second look at the railings, ready to rip them off but started to work on them with a small file and some sandpaper.  I begin to think that the closeup setting of the camera distorted the image giving me a false sense of reality.  I looked at them again as one would when just looking from arms length, then through my high-powered magnifier and they are not all that bad - - - after I worked them over.  
This doesn't mean that I'll leave them as is.  The round stanchion spindles do look attractive and is a good possibility.  So who knows.
I'll let Gwen (who doesn't want to be called Admiral) take a look at it and get her opinion on it too.
 
In the meantime I'm working on the cannon rigging, which should keep me busy for some time.
 
Cheers,