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Everything posted by jimbyr
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Band Saw Recommendations
jimbyr replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Chris I use the grizzly G0555. It has bearings on the blade Jim -
Just did a quote for shipping to South Africa this morning, a saw and sliding table, $616.00, UPS has gone wild. Jim Model Machines
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Byrnes Table Saw Tips (requested)
jimbyr replied to Matrim's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
MBS Sometimes the website doesn't email the emails. Use mmllc@cfl.rr.com and Donna will send you the manual Jim model Machines -
Steve We ship blades in 2 days. Machines take 2 weeks Jim
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Looking for a good "starter" pin vise set
jimbyr replied to Capella's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Capella Starrett or Moody, the best there is Jim -
The website email is not always working the best use mmllc@cfl.rr.com that is our direct email Jim
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I have 5 kits 1 Constructo, HMS Bounty, doesn't look like it was started, not sure all the pieces are there but probably are. ...............Sold 2 Scientific, Charles W Morgan. has been started, not sure all the pieces are there. 3 AL Swift, doesn't look like it was started, not sure all the pieces are there but probably are. 4 Blue Jacket Smuggler, looks brand new......Sold 5 Modelers Shipyard, A Schooner of Port Jackson, has been started, not sure all the pieces are there but probably are.................Sold These kits are free, you only pay for the shipping, send me your address, first come first serve You can PM me if you would like any of them
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Martindale 4" Saw Blades
jimbyr replied to HReardon's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
HReardon Martindale blades are better than Malco. What size blades do you need Jim -
Jeff These are the ones I use most, they are all Two Cherries 5303-10 1mm wide 5306-10 1 mm wide 5301-15 1.5 mm wide 5311-05 .5 mm wide 5339-15 1.5 mm wide 5311-10 1 mm wide Jim
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Tom I bought both sets 5 years ago when they were 1/2 price. Haven't seen it since Jim
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Tom Yes you can buy them individually Jim
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Jeff If you're interested in these I'll make you a list of the ones I use the most, only about 5 of them Jim
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Jeff I use Two Cherries micro chisels https://www.craftsmanstudio.com/Two-Cherries-Micro-Carving-Tool-Set6_p_353.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwr56IBhAvEiwA1fuqGgOwMvoBlyTXykDOBJExwO5mdlrDPqYwSPoq7x7BJIzHDHj2SWDn-hoCltAQAvD_BwE And i also have this set from Lee Valley https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/carving-tools/gouges/47816-hirsch-micro-carving-tools?item=61S0015&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=CjwKCAjwr56IBhAvEiwA1fuqGus4E3_D77hTumBLfRIPwzYWPGiSwH8bzOB1bOwKsYabm2a9USn98hoCXGMQAvD_BwE They are not palm chisels but are only 6" long and go down to .5mm and are excellent quality Used them on this Jim
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Model shop bandsaw choice?
jimbyr replied to tooter's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tooter I have a Grizzly GO555 14" bandsaw. Have had it for 18 years, cast iron table good fence ball bearing guides and can change blades in 2 minutes. Good saw. When I bought it it was 400 bucks, now it's 795.00 regards Jim -
Sherline Mill Essential Accessories?
jimbyr replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mark Looks like you would have to change the complete Sherline head stock. https://www.sherline.com/product/30111-er-16-headstock/#specifications It's 200 bucks and runout is .0005 - .001 Not sure I would do that. If you're looking for an ER-16 collet chuck for something else I can recommend one Jim -
Sherline Mill Essential Accessories?
jimbyr replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mark What type mill do you have Jim -
Sherline Mill Essential Accessories?
jimbyr replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
ER-16 collet chucks are compressed from the front and rear equally if you have a decent collet and chuck. They hold any size drill or endmill quite well if you use the correct size collet for your tool. I have never had one squeeze out a small endmill or drill. I have about 250 or so ER-16, ER-25 and ER-32 collets. They are all made in the USA, none of them are from China. If you use a collet with a draw bar the tool has to be the exact size or it will only squeeze the tool at the front of the collet. Good quality ER collets are the best around Jim -
Justifying the purchase of a mill
jimbyr replied to Captain T's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bob It's not done yet, still have to make the stops on the quill and the lock on the other side. If it goes into production it's going to be expensive. The bearings and the ER-16 collet chuck are over 200 bucks. About 300 bucks just for the store bought stuff + material and time Jim -
Justifying the purchase of a mill
jimbyr replied to Captain T's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Gaetan is right, most of the benchtop mills don't have the capability to drill holes. This benchtop mill is a Taig, it came with the standard head on it, no drilling. I made a new head with a quill, it has an ER-16 collet chuck on it up to 10MM capacity. It also has a 1/4 HP motor on it which will run from 600-10000 RPM and has 1 3/4 drilling capacity. The run out on the spindle is .0002 which is about the best you can get. It has a Fafnir taper roller bearing on the bottom and a ABEC-5 radial bearing on the top of the spindle and also in the pulley. I put a Newall magnetic scale digital read out on it also. The head is designed similar to the old Bridgeport M head. Also made a vise for it because the one that came with it wasn't too good. This machine is deadly accurate Jim Model Machines -
I suck ripping planks with my Byrnes saw
jimbyr replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
John Don't know what everyone else does but this is what I do. If you're cutting planks say 3/16" wide x 1/16 thick what I do first is cut my stock from a billet on the band saw about 7/32 wide x 2" . Then I run them through the thickness sander down to 3/16" so now I have a piece of stock 3/16 x 2" + or -.001 on the 3/16 thickness. Then to the saw with a 3" .03 slitting blade and cut the planks 1/16 thick. After you glue the planks on you're going to sand them so the 1/6 thickness really doesn't matter much regards Jim -
Actually I wouldn't approve using the saw as a flat plate. You can get a granite surface plate in many sizes which are flat within .0003. I have an 18 x 24 plate I got at an auction for 25 bucks, flat as a pancake. You can glue on it and make a mess and clean it off with a scraper and lacquer thinner. Won't harm the plate at all. If you shop around you can get a new one 12 x 9 for about 30 bucks. Here's a 12 x 18 on Amazon for 100 bucks and free shipping. weighs 90 lbs. https://www.amazon.com/TTC-Black-Granite-Surface-Plates/dp/B0058JW9PW/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=granite+surface+plate&qid=1616338149&s=industrial&sr=1-17 regards Jim
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I suck ripping planks with my Byrnes saw
jimbyr replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Which blade are you using, what wood are you cutting, is the fence square, is the blade sharp, does it have resin on it, are you cutting the planks on the width side or thickness side? Jim -
Making and using a draw plate
jimbyr replied to Don Case's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Don The holes range from .016 - .059. They are drill sizes 53 - 78 Jim -
Making and using a draw plate
jimbyr replied to Don Case's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
So, what sizes would you like the holes to be if I made a new one Jim
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