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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. This photo (from left to right) Finished main yard, partly done fore yard, and roughed out mizzen.
  2. May I suggest you cut open the round section so you can wrap it around the topmast? Once bent back in place, a touch of putty and when painted, no-one will know.
  3. Next I cut them to length and add the footropes themselves, crimping the ends of the supports around them.
  4. Moving on to the footropes. I use fine wire to make them. First I drill a hole in the front of the yard to secure the rope supports
  5. The squared off ends of the yard were missing "something" - I realized that the yard flared into the square, rather than just abruptly change. So I added some filler, I think it looks a lot better now.
  6. Over the weekend, I spent another 4 1/2 hours to get the yard to the stage you see below. I built out the squared ends and yes, there is a sheave inside. There's also 10 eyebolts, 4 wires for the stunsail irons, and of course the truss. Still need to add the footropes. The jackstay supports are .020" thread tied around them.
  7. So started the main yard last night. Took about 20 minutes, it is a 5/16 dowel that is 11 1/4 inches long
  8. Thanks, Rob. I'm thinking about a couple of furled sails on the lower yards, and maybe a jib sail. Plenty of time to ponder that............ Here's what I did on the Charles Notman:
  9. Welcome, Tobias. Did you buy it from Eskader? They're nice people. If you do a build thread, when finished, I will give you 10% off your next kit (if you buy it from us, of course) Nic
  10. My pleasure. We all learn by helping each other. Remember: Experience is what you get right after you needed it!
  11. At this point, I woulds go one of two ways: 1- Get some Bondo and fill out the bow curve. - See me doing that at the stern of the Red Jacket thread. 2- Glue on the keel pieces, then use filler to fill the gaps. I think #1 would yield a better hull, but #2 is easier. Nic
  12. Here are the 3 gaffs and a boom, being painted. Residing on the centerline, it makes sense to install them before the various running gear.
  13. Here's the fish tackle set up. I believe it was used to help pull the anchor up to the catheads.
  14. Here's a shot of the main backstays. From left to right, the sizes (diameter inches) are: .010 .015 .020 .025 The shrouds are .030
  15. Last night I finished the Main backstays and installed the spreader bars on the fore and main.
  16. Got a chance to do some more backstays. I'm spending about 1/2 hour on each one. Foremast is finished.
  17. The planking package for the Smuggler is W1012.2 and has 75 pcs of 1/8" x .020 basswood, 24" long
  18. I had a discussion with True North about the paint coverage. Their supplier of one of their solvent bases changed formulas, but didn't change part numbers or tell them. TN has re-formulated their paints and they again perform like they should. Would you like a new jar of white? Nic
  19. If you get our planking strips, they are only .020" thick, so the reduction in hull size is minimal. Bob Steinbrunn's model is a magnificent piece of work. If I recall, he scribed the solid hull to get his planked appearance.
  20. This has caused us some concern. Investigating it, it appears that back who knows how far, someone shrank the hull profile a bit to fit an 11 x 17 sheet for convenience. We will be changing it to the correct dimension. If you use the deck layout, the hull fits perfectly.
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