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MrBlueJacket

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  1. MrBlueJacket
    Yes we will Mark. Nic
  2. MrBlueJacket
    Very nice, Tim! Your customer profile now has 10% off your next kit. Nic
  3. MrBlueJacket
    Not quite correct. from the tip of the jibboom to the end of the spanker boom, she was 450 feet long. 450*12=5400 inches, divided by 96 = 56.25 inches LOA, not just the hull . The Maine Maritime Museum in Bath has a model of her in the lobby at that same scale. That model includes figures on her, which I suspect came from the Revell Constitution kit. All the same poses.
  4. MrBlueJacket
    Yes, Wyoming will be 1:96. Plank on bulkhead, single layer. She's going to take a LOT of wood! And her deck is ringed with stanchions all around. Some straight up and down, but at the bow and stern they are canted inward and outward.
  5. MrBlueJacket
    When finished, it will be for the shop. Then I need to do a Wherry, Liberty ship, and PT boat also for the shop. When Al gets done designing the 6-masted Wyoming, I know he will be handing it off to me to do the rigging. But that's probably 2 yrs out.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    I must say that the food and speakers were both top notch.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    My goal is to have her finished by April 25th, which is the next Joint Clubs meeting of the Northeast, held each year in New London CT. It will be close......
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Hi, Yes, she has backstay spreaders, but they are supposed to go on after the backstays are in place. That way they are aligned with the run of the backstay.
  9. MrBlueJacket
    After the ratlines, the stays came next. Now that they're done, it's on to the backstays, then the 15 yardarms.
  10. MrBlueJacket
    The solution to that is to drill the hole first, then cut out the shape you want around it. I learned that the hard way.
  11. MrBlueJacket
    And yet another alignment check to make sure the masts are straight.
  12. MrBlueJacket
    Down to the last two sets of ratlines to tie.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    I have decided to extend this offer indefinitely. Several more people are added, you would get a note from me if I've seen it. If not, then PM me to add you. Nic
  14. MrBlueJacket
    And with the masts stepped, it is time to do the ratlines. It's just another one of those jobs that creates hours of great fun........
  15. MrBlueJacket
    Got to do the main stay and main top stay. These are much easier to install before the foremast goes in, as you can see from the picture. Small strips of paper towel were glued on and painted to represent the leather chaffing guards.
  16. MrBlueJacket
    A really fine looking model. Finished status noted.
  17. MrBlueJacket
    And the mainmast shrouds are done. I will be doing the ratlines before the backstays so I have more space to work around.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    For the first shroud P&S I use the bent wire method (looks like a staple) - that way both sides have the same spacing. For the rest of the shrouds, I eyeball it to within about 1/32" and sieze it. Then I can tighten or loosen the lanyards, and also wind or unwind the shroud to get the final height to "eyeball" level.
  19. MrBlueJacket
    So we go to the next pair of deadeyes. Now the task is to make sure all the upper deadeyes are at the same level, which should be parallel to the waterline, not the deck.
  20. MrBlueJacket
    And so we begin the lower shrouds.The first shroud on each side, like the bowsprit, is critical to the alignment of the masts.Unless they are correct, the problems will mount later on. BTW, the masts are not glued in, they are held just by the rigging, like full-size practice. The lanyards on both sides are loose, then tightened up and adjusted to make the mast square before tying off.
  21. MrBlueJacket
    battery powered Dremel tool
  22. MrBlueJacket
    To avoid problems, we have to think ahead about what needs to go where before the other stuff gets in the way. For example, attaching the Mizzen stay would be nearly impossible after the main shrouds are installed.
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Now starts the stepping of the masts. Here's the Mainmast being set up at the proper rake angle, as determined by the template provided in the kit.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    Lead fittings are subject to corrosion (lead bloom) and decay, eventually turning to white powder. If they are perfectly sealed with paint, that doesn't become a problem for several decades. However, I suggest you replace them with Britannia metal fittings (lead-free pewter) - you can find probably everything you need from the fittings section of our website.
  25. MrBlueJacket
    Mike, Since you are doing a build thread on the Notman, when it is done you will be getting 10% off your next kit you get from us. FOr the Red Jacket, that means a $63 savings. Nic

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