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MrBlueJacket

NRG Member
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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. So now the foremast is complete. The extra thread lengths are because the ratlines at the upper end of each mast segment go over to the first backstay.
  2. Hi, If you PM or email me, I will give you 10% off your next BlueJacket kit once you finish this build. That is a standing offer I have to promote build logs. Nic
  3. So now I'm into the ratlines. It's about a wash as to whether it is easier on the model of off the model. Notice that to get the mast to stay at the correct position, I had to use a couple of clothespins to stabilize it. Also, putting a white background behind the mast helps my aging eyes. My opinion of ratlines is like forming the deadeyes (see page 2) "it's hours of great fun"
  4. So with another hours worth of work, all the foremast shrouds are in place. Next step - ratlines.
  5. And yes, even the topmast shrouds are easier off the model. But I'm holding off any final comment until I see how it is to do the ratlines.
  6. Time to start the rigging. Normally, I step all the lower masts and add the shrouds and stays, then work my way up. However, the instructions say to build the masts and rig the upper parts before putting mast to the deck, claiming it is easier. I will try it on the foremast and see if I like the method. Here is the foremast, finished and ready for some thread.
  7. Very nice! I have added a note in your customer file for 10% off your next kit purchase. Thanks for doing the build thread. Nic
  8. So it's time to install the outriggers for the main braces. The instructions say to drill a hole, then use a sharp blade to square out the hole for the outrigger. In a moment of inspired laziness, I figured it would be easier to round out the square piece than to try and square out the hole. Worked like a charm.
  9. Very nice job. When you put "finished" in your title, I will make a note in your file that you get 10% off your next kit from us. Nic
  10. Yes, we have kept a close eye on 3-D printing. From a kit production standpoint, it is prohibitively expensive for not much gain. However, for the modeler, it is practical. For example, if you want to get nice marine figures in 1/192 scale, shapeways has you covered. Look here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/55GX8HF2S/1-192-us-navy-dungaree-set-1?optionId=61093772&li=marketplace And here's one in place on the USS Kidd.
  11. Looks good, Tim. I found a 1/200 tractor for you: https://www.shapeways.com/product/AEG6GRKJC/1-200-scale-m915-tractor Nic
  12. Been doing a little of this and a little of that. Like adding the vertical ladder to the deckhouse, the ventilators, anchor chain, bitts, etc. Pretty soon I think I'll be starting the rigging.
  13. The rear deckhouse is permanently installed, and the bilge pump is fabricated. Boy, does it feel good to get back to modeling.
  14. Made the several sampson posts for the forecastle from 1/8" square stock. Pins are for secure mounting.
  15. So I have been out of the hospital for a week now. Get tired very easily, every day is a little improvement. Got to looking at the RJ last Friday, and wondered why there are no scupper ports in the bulwarks. Careful examination of the plans shows 8 tiny channels from the deck out the hull. I thought "why bother?"but I couldn't ignore them. Here's a shot of one of them (just left of the locker) and its exit. Time to bring out the black touch-up paint.
  16. If you haven't cut the Spring stay yet, there is an alternative: Seize the middle of the shroud like before, then wrap the shroud line around the lower mast head, and then seize it together in place. A bit awkward, but (I think) easier than cutting a line. Nic
  17. to RFP: My GUESS is that if the wheel well confined the splash, some of it would be directed against the turn of the paddle, using energy for nothing. Just my guess, but try to picture the water splashing against the top, then back-splashing to the wrong direction. by letting the water splash go higher, it would more likely drip straight downand not impede progress. Nic
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