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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Once you mask off, it is a good idea to paint either clear of the color under the tape. That seals the edge of the tape and makes for nice crisp lines.
  2. A good choice for starting. Remember: "Putty and paint - makes it look like what it ain't" One of my favorite expressions, and so true.
  3. Got the foremast topsail sheet and clew done this afternoon. Hard to see the "cloverleaf block" under the foreyard, but the chain is belayed to the pinrail, then through the cloverleaf block, the out to the sheave at the end of the yard (remember when I put those in?) and then to a single block, which receives a line from the topmast near the center, then down to the pinrail. The sheet tackle is .015, while the clew is .010. This is because the sheet carries a lot of force when he sail is deployed, but the clew only pulls up the sail itself.
  4. So here's the mizzen topyard halyard - with these all done, next is the topsail sheet and clew lines. Chain with blocks on each end.
  5. After several nights of work, all the lower lifts are aligned and tied off. Still have all the topyard halyards to do. A fair amount of woprk with little to show.
  6. So after 4 months and 10 days, I am back to the Red Jacket. During that time, I built a Whaleboat and did 2 repairs for customers. When I left off, all the lower and top yards were installed, top yards had their lifts, lower yards had their lifts, but not yet tied to belaying pins. Only the main top had halyards installed, but again not belayed. So I have a lot of aligning and tying off to do. Of course, first thing I did was to break one of the main lower lift attachments
  7. If you get frustrated with the templates, remember no-one is going to measure your model. If it looks smooth and fair, you've succeeded!
  8. There are two schools of thought about rigging. Since the running rigging is generally inside of the standing, It makes sense to do it first. On the other hand, putting up the standing rigging first stabilizes the masts and makes alignment easier. It's not difficult to do the running rigging after. So it's six of one, and a half dozen of the other. Builder's choice. As for belaying lines along the forward deckhouse, with its tight clearance, you can put the line through the belaying hole, then put the pin in.
  9. Yes, please do a build thread. When you finish it, you will get a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us. It's my standing offer. Nic
  10. Got the mast and sails installed. Almost done. Over this weekend, we went to cookouts both Sat & Sun, no little modeling time. I did manage to make a knife to put on the cuddy. It would be used to cut the line if the whale sounded and threatened to take the boat with it. Next will be the compass, then it's done!
  11. Our Alabama and Kearsarge kits contain an enormous number of parts. Photo-etched brass is expensive, and it takes a full day of laser cutting to do all the pieces in each kit. On the Kearsarge, there are over 50 pieces just to make up each Dahlgren gun. To say nothing of the large number of wood sheets used. We try very hard to keep our prices down, but we are using American labor. Also, each kit took 1,400 hours of design work to be amortized across 150 kits.
  12. Working on the mainsail. Tried a new technique with these sails - after pencil lines, spray with flat clear, and put just one layer over it (grain at 90 degrees of course.) Spray again, let dry. Big advantage is the lacquer does not shrink the silkspan.
  13. Yes, both kits are readily available. True plank-on frames. Nic
  14. Good job, Bill! For information, when we realized the problem, we went from a drilling jib on the drill press (subject to movement) to drilling with our duplicating machine. No more off-center holes! Nic
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