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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket
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Next I tackled tha making of the oarlocks. The instructions say to twist and bend some wire to make them, but I thought I could do a more realistic job. I made a jig from a small piece of dowel and two wire pins, spaced correctly. Then I used thin strips of Britannia metal to form the oarlocks. In about a half hour, I had all ten that I needed. All I have left to do is drill the bottom and insert a pin to mount them. I'm kinda proud of that! One or two might need a tweak.
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- bluejacket shipcrafters
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And 8 days later, after moving my daughter from one apartment to another (I can't believe she had that much stuff) I got to do a little more work. Hinged mast step is done, as are the thwart knees. They are made from reed, which I sanded down in half (think "D" cross section), then painted black, and cut into 1" lengths. Soaked in water, they bent up nicely, and I could clip the excess just below the caprail.
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Always secure knots with a drop of either diluted Elmer's, or Titebond, or fabric cement. Stay away from using CA for knots. It works, but over time, where the stiff CA ends and the soft rigging starts, it will eventually fracture. Think bending a paper clip as an analogy.
- 60 replies
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- swampscott dory
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Had some time to add the thwarts and do more painting. Using a brush means I'll have to go back and do touch-ups here and there.
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Bill, Without a doubt, that is one of the best looking Yankee Heros I've seen. Very clean and crisp!
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I see things there that you learned in the rigging class - good job!
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It looks just fine. You got the idea correct! Nic
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Another coat of yellow, looks good to me. Centerboard truck installed, and starting to install the frameheads.
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Personally, I love the Savannah, but it was not a good seller. Nic
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A pintle is a bent wire on the rudder that goes into an eyepin hole on the boat. It is shaped like a sideways "L" It forms the hinge for the rudder. I drew a diagram for you.
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So I painted the inside yellow (spray) and didn't like it, so I wiped it off with thinner. Then I used a brush. Needs another coat, yellow is difficult to cover. Then I used a compass to mark off where the visible frame heads will go. 5/32" spacing amidships, and 1/4" near the ends.
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Hi, Your kit is not from 1938, since it has the BlueJacket label, it is after 1972. It shows that the kit design goes back that far.
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I used Model Master spray can paint
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Hi Brian, Please do a build thread. When you finish, I will give you 10% off your next kit you get from us. Nic
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Yes, as we run out of MM stock, we are switching over to True North. There are several reasons for this. First, of course is that it is good enamel paint. Second, they make it here in Maine, less than an hour away. Third, they are quick to remedy any problems that arise. Fourth, they are willing to make a new color just for us, and have done so 4 or 5 times. Colors like Depot Buff and Jade Green for example. Fifth, they are modelers themselves, and understand us.
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Try using 220 wet/dry sandpaper (the black stuff) and use it wet. The water helps to sluff off the sanding dust and the paper lasts a lot longer ( a lot lot longer)
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- charles p notman
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