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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. So the bulwarks are on, and it is time to strengthen the soft balsa wood. I decided to use MinWax Polycrylic and silkspan. Here a section being applied.
  2. Looking good....like I said, the power tool helps a lot in the stern where the material of the carving tool mounting lug needs to be removed.
  3. I have to chuckle a bit - older perceptions are sometimes different from reality. BlueJacket makes 78 model kits, and only 30 of them are solid hull, 12 are cast resin, 3 are plank on frame, and the rest are plank on bulkhead.
  4. Al's grinder is a Craftsman as shown in the photo below. Also here's a link to a Makita one on Amazon. They run from about $60-$120 https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA4030K-4-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B002OTDIH2
  5. Over the weekend I got the rest of the hull planked. Next will be adding the planked bulwarks, then covering the balsa with either polycrylic or polyester resin.
  6. Al's advice is to " go gently and let the machine work." It takes the wood down in a hurry. Now I just need to finish sand to the templates and then do the bulkheads.
  7. So Al let me borrow his 4" portable grinder - Boy, does that make short work out of shaping the hull! Unfortunately, I got a little to heavy-handed and it started to burn the wood.
  8. And here's the dory, completed except for the seats, which will be mahogany. They will have to wait until I have painted the shell.
  9. Starting to plank the hull - It's easy with the balsa supplied. I will coat the balsa with polyester resin and silkspan.
  10. Actually, I have not heard anything. We actually talked about it but many are similar to our own offerings.
  11. So now you can see all the bulkheads and decking in place. First photo is attaching the chine strips, second photo is the topsides, and the raised stern.
  12. No-one will look at your model and say "you didn't overlap your plates" - instead they will say "wow what a smooth job of coppering you did" Modeling is part authenticity, but also part of the art of making it look good. Like I said in a past newsletter " putty and paint - makes it look like what it ain't" Keep up the VERY good work! Nic
  13. Jim, Looking very good. Remember, back to front, bottom to top. Of course, with butt joints it doesn't make a difference. Nic
  14. You can see the rough hull in the first picture. I'll take some progress photos as I carve. Nic
  15. I took the previous photos on Fri. Saturday I actually started to do some assembly. Here's the keel: And one of the bulkheads. Experience has taught me that when butt gluing edge pieces, it is better to scarf a piece across the joint to strengthen it. Just be sure it won't be in the way of future assembly steps!
  16. First, let's take a good look at the cast metal pieces. These obviously have lead in them, so they will have to go. Luckily, I know where i can find replacements ;-)
  17. So here we go again with an older kit. Let's start with the kit contents. Here's one of the two plan sheets, the rigging package, and the instruction booklet. And here is the other plan sheet, along with the stick wood.
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