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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Here we are starting to sand down the Bondo And after it is sanded down, you can see where the knuckle rises up on the sides. It's not supposed to do that.
  2. The stern has a pronounced "knuckle" which I lost during the sanding. So, I have to build it up with some Bondo.
  3. I have used it before when fiber-glassing an R/C plane, and didn't have any problems. It seems to be sticking quite well here, too.
  4. Although I tried to get out as many wrinkles as I can, it is not critical. When primed and sanded, the wrinkles will disappear. Any small irregularities will be puttied over.
  5. So the bulwarks are on, and it is time to strengthen the soft balsa wood. I decided to use MinWax Polycrylic and silkspan. Here a section being applied.
  6. Looking good....like I said, the power tool helps a lot in the stern where the material of the carving tool mounting lug needs to be removed.
  7. I have to chuckle a bit - older perceptions are sometimes different from reality. BlueJacket makes 78 model kits, and only 30 of them are solid hull, 12 are cast resin, 3 are plank on frame, and the rest are plank on bulkhead.
  8. Al's grinder is a Craftsman as shown in the photo below. Also here's a link to a Makita one on Amazon. They run from about $60-$120 https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA4030K-4-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B002OTDIH2
  9. Over the weekend I got the rest of the hull planked. Next will be adding the planked bulwarks, then covering the balsa with either polycrylic or polyester resin.
  10. Al's advice is to " go gently and let the machine work." It takes the wood down in a hurry. Now I just need to finish sand to the templates and then do the bulkheads.
  11. So Al let me borrow his 4" portable grinder - Boy, does that make short work out of shaping the hull! Unfortunately, I got a little to heavy-handed and it started to burn the wood.
  12. And here's the dory, completed except for the seats, which will be mahogany. They will have to wait until I have painted the shell.
  13. Starting to plank the hull - It's easy with the balsa supplied. I will coat the balsa with polyester resin and silkspan.
  14. Actually, I have not heard anything. We actually talked about it but many are similar to our own offerings.
  15. So now you can see all the bulkheads and decking in place. First photo is attaching the chine strips, second photo is the topsides, and the raised stern.
  16. No-one will look at your model and say "you didn't overlap your plates" - instead they will say "wow what a smooth job of coppering you did" Modeling is part authenticity, but also part of the art of making it look good. Like I said in a past newsletter " putty and paint - makes it look like what it ain't" Keep up the VERY good work! Nic
  17. Jim, Looking very good. Remember, back to front, bottom to top. Of course, with butt joints it doesn't make a difference. Nic
  18. You can see the rough hull in the first picture. I'll take some progress photos as I carve. Nic
  19. I took the previous photos on Fri. Saturday I actually started to do some assembly. Here's the keel: And one of the bulkheads. Experience has taught me that when butt gluing edge pieces, it is better to scarf a piece across the joint to strengthen it. Just be sure it won't be in the way of future assembly steps!
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