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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Al's grinder is a Craftsman as shown in the photo below. Also here's a link to a Makita one on Amazon. They run from about $60-$120 https://www.amazon.com/Makita-GA4030K-4-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B002OTDIH2
  2. Over the weekend I got the rest of the hull planked. Next will be adding the planked bulwarks, then covering the balsa with either polycrylic or polyester resin.
  3. Al's advice is to " go gently and let the machine work." It takes the wood down in a hurry. Now I just need to finish sand to the templates and then do the bulkheads.
  4. So Al let me borrow his 4" portable grinder - Boy, does that make short work out of shaping the hull! Unfortunately, I got a little to heavy-handed and it started to burn the wood.
  5. And here's the dory, completed except for the seats, which will be mahogany. They will have to wait until I have painted the shell.
  6. So now you can see all the bulkheads and decking in place. First photo is attaching the chine strips, second photo is the topsides, and the raised stern.
  7. No-one will look at your model and say "you didn't overlap your plates" - instead they will say "wow what a smooth job of coppering you did" Modeling is part authenticity, but also part of the art of making it look good. Like I said in a past newsletter " putty and paint - makes it look like what it ain't" Keep up the VERY good work! Nic
  8. Jim, Looking very good. Remember, back to front, bottom to top. Of course, with butt joints it doesn't make a difference. Nic
  9. I took the previous photos on Fri. Saturday I actually started to do some assembly. Here's the keel: And one of the bulkheads. Experience has taught me that when butt gluing edge pieces, it is better to scarf a piece across the joint to strengthen it. Just be sure it won't be in the way of future assembly steps!
  10. First, let's take a good look at the cast metal pieces. These obviously have lead in them, so they will have to go. Luckily, I know where i can find replacements ;-)
  11. So here we go again with an older kit. Let's start with the kit contents. Here's one of the two plan sheets, the rigging package, and the instruction booklet. And here is the other plan sheet, along with the stick wood.
  12. So I have roughed out the bow and stern, taking off most of the knobs left from the hull carving process. big wood block screwed into the deck so I can hold the hull in a vise. Marked off the centerline, the width of the keel, and the station locations. Now comes the boring carve, fit, check, then repeat ad nauseum. After that, make the bulwarks, then it should get to be more fun.
  13. It seems the Red Jacket was launched with anti-fouling paint on her hull, but once in England, the British put on copper plates. I will do her "as launched" I think. I am also going to keep a time sheet, which is something I have never done before on a model. I'm also thinking of adding a few furled sails of silkspan.
  14. Finally, sheet 5 is the belaying points, and the cast fittings and resin lifeboats. My prediction is that it will take me about 1 1/2 years to finish.
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