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Everything posted by Bill Hime
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What I see here, is the sheer size of the materials being used. The thickness of the hull appears more in keeping with dimensional framing or admiralty work. The removal of material from the bulkheads can be more easily done beforehand and planned around with the bulkheads being more robust. What a great application for using Ash or Hard Maple...hmmm. Sanding, well I can see that this approach is more suited for the cabinet shop than in the shipyard in my living room. I think there is enough difference in application to warrant a category of it's own, if there's enough interest here. It's definitely a hybrid between POB and POF. That's my $0.02 Warm Regards, Bill
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Hey Jack, What kind of router table is that? Looks smaller than normal, bit looks like a 1/4" chuck maybe? Oars look great! nice Jig for producing a large number of repeatable parts Warm Regards, Bill
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Just spent some time getting caught up on your build. Wow, I think there's enough copper on that hall to roof a Budhest temple! Straight up good work my friend Warm Regards, Bill
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ebonizing boxwood
Bill Hime replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Good post Nick! And not long at all. I brought this subject up again because last year I had promised to try something new and share the outcome. I spent all day yesterday working the process of using Kiwi shoe polish and linseed oil heated and applied. I will share the pics and explain the process. It did initially come up short but I'm not done. Bottom line, staining is staining using ink or dye. Ebonizing is different. As you briefly mentioned, the vinegar/steel wool solution is as close to the actual natural process that occurs in the tree. The solution interacts with the tannin's in the wood, causing an oxidation in the surface cells. The more natural tannins in a wood, the greater the reaction. Oak, cherry, pear, and walnut, have an excellent reaction to this process, walnut to the greater extent. I'm actually setup to do this and could do this later this week with pics. What I'm working on now is actually doing a soaking bath where one could keep planking and other finished parts in the bath, the longer the better. The idea being infusing the black deep into the wood. I think naphtha is the key ingredient here to creating the almost waxy feeling a piece of ebony has, thus why I'm focusing on Kiwi shoe polish as the pigment medium. Warm Regards, Bill -
ebonizing boxwood
Bill Hime replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hello Nigel! Yes I do agree. Today in fact, I looked through some nice pieces of ebony. I will definitely work with ebony soon. I wanted to give this method a thorough testing for those who might be limited in choice by conviction or pocket book Always a pleasure to hear from you! Bill -
ebonizing boxwood
Bill Hime replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Brian, Actually I'm using cherry, as it has similar characteristics to pear. And Brian, it's not the cost of the wood that's important, it's the outcome . eventually, I will be trying several species to find the best material for this application. Nice to see you again Brian, hope all is well my friend Warm Regards, Bill -
ebonizing boxwood
Bill Hime replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hey guys, I'm going to open this discussion up again! It's been almost a year, lol but I have all the the supplies to do some testing on the ebonizing I discussed previously in this discussion. It's late tonight, but tomorrow, Sunday, I will be spending the day working on this. I will detail with photos and thoughts on the outcome So here we go WackoWolf Warm Regards, Bill -
Jerry, What an interesting log to say the least! Thank you for a peak into an area I had no previous knowledge. What a great log! Warm Regards, Bill
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Jcoby, Thanks again my friend. Your ability to convey what you have already experienced is invaluable ! Alistair, This build will be a celebration of the wood, so no paint for sure Jason, I've actually used a similar process in doing buildups on detailed coffered ceiling work. That seems like a sound application for wales as well. I love the fact there is often more than one solution to many aspects of ship building. I think I would like to start with thicker wales and work to them with both layers. I can treat each layer like the finished layer, kind of like building 2 ships at once...double the experience!!! My wales are going to be ebonized pear, assuming my process takes as well as I think it will. I'll detail that here as well in the paint/wood section. Warm Regards to all! Bill
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Harvey, That makes sense, taking it from the bulkheads. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thank you. I only saw a sample from Bob's practicum on the web, don't have it. I definitely was planning on using the basswood planking from the kit for the first layer. I think the first run would give me valuable experience for doing the finished layer. I like the idea of block fillers. I would think that would give the model stability for the years to come. Alistair, It feels good to be back! Double planking was offered as an option by the build guide. Of course it gave no detail as to how to go about it . I'm going to be deviating from the plans in a few places . I'm going to use this ship as a journey into just what can I bring from cabinet/furniture making into it's presentation and finish. Thank you both! Warm Regards, Bill
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So I have spent a great deal of time this last 4-5 days reading through my plans and building guide. I have compiled my lumber list for Hobbymill, Yellow Heart for decking, Boxwood for planking, Red Heart for plank sheer, top rail, coamings, and rudder and keel. I'm trying ebonizing Pear for wales, some deck and mast details. In my reading, one of the options given was double planking. This interested me two-fold, it will be my first planking job ever. It would give me a practice run and a solid base to plank on for the finished product. This raises some questions from my lack of experience; 1.) Do I have to use a wider keel to receive the second layer? 2.) Do I have to widen my plank sheer? (It still has to line up with the stanchions) 3.) there's probably something else I should be asking, i.e...I don't know what I don't know Love to hear some feedback on this! Warm Regards, Bill
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I have spent the better half of the afternoon, reading and studying your log. As a cabinet-maker and restorator, I am in awe of your precision and detail. I'm new to ship building and this is the very inspiration I'm looking for in my own goals...I have a long way to go to even walk in your hemisphere Warm Regards, Bill
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Cristiano, Those instructions are very nice. English would be better ! Thanks for the peak ! I wonder if this type of monthly magazine would be available here in the states. Oh I suppose it comes with each mailing of the monthly kit, would that be correct? Ulises, My Admiral has supplied me with all the room I need. I'm a very blessed man Warm Regards, Bill
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Hey Mark, It's on the site Model Space linked at the bottom of our Forums page. You can have it sent in stages monthly or pay for it out right. Monthly it's $100.00. Or you can pay one time $1,399.99. So it's $1,399.99 or $699.99.....that's a $700.00 difference being advertised right here on our Forum. Model Space and Age of Sail are both linked here. Bill
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So I've been looking at the HMS Surprise 1:48 for my build this winter. I'm bewildered by the price difference of this model between DeAgostini/Model Space @ $1,399.99 and Age of Sail @ $699.99... Is there something different between these two kits? I did see that the DeAgostini model is in collaboration with a maritime museum. This is literally double the cost. Can anybody shed light on this for me? Warm Regards, Bill
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