Bill Hime
-
Posts
311 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Bill Hime reacted to bigcreekdad in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
Jan....I did ask for everyone's thoughts, so I I won't whine.
-
-
Bill Hime reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
Hint about razor blade scraping: File down or grind the corners of the blade first. Scraping is a GREAT way to take off material but the corners of the blade- if you use a razor blade-tend to dig into the wood and you get characteristic gouges, especially on the curved surface of a deck.
-
Bill Hime reacted to overdale in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
If this were my model I would drill out the filled holes, scrape it down and refill with a lighter filler.
Dan.
-
Bill Hime reacted to Jaager in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
The ocean being unforgiving - rules were developed for wooden ship construction. Very little if anything was
left up to chance.
from: American Shipmasters' Assocciation - "Record" a set of rules for the insurance companies.
also called the "American Lloyd's". My guess is that much if not all was from Lloyd's of London rules.
These rules were probably developed " on the job" from about 1550 on.
Deck plank
.....No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes
the space of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three strakes between them.
These are minimum standards. Quality yards may have had four strakes. Using long planks would help.
-
Bill Hime reacted to Chuck Seiler in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
What size drill bit did you use? The item you are trying to duplicate is only an inch to 1.5 inches in diameter (scale)
Remember, decks are not tree nailed. They are bolted. What you see is a plug used to protect the bolt heads from weather, etc. Plugs, like tree nails, will be subtle. Looking at your model from 3 feet away is like looking at the real ship from 20, 30 feet away. Subtle.
If it were me, I would give the deck a good soaking with rubbing alcohol, rip up the deck and re-plank (sez a guy who just ripped off 4 weeks of hull planking to get it right.)
-
Bill Hime reacted to Slowhand in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
When you think of the time it takes to build one of these models, you don't say what it is, the time taken to plank a deck isn't that significant.
You could plank over it and timber is very cheap. I don't think you will remove all the wood filler from the decks by sanding. I replanked with my model the San Martin because I was unhappy with the width of the planks and the colour after finishing with Danish oil.
-
Bill Hime reacted to Roger Pellett in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this
If this were my model, I would scrape, not sand the deck. A single edge razor blade will work. Scraping up will clean things up and might improve the look of the trenails by removing the surface.
Roger Pellett
-
Bill Hime reacted to Chuck in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
Thanks, I do know about those but never thought about using them on wood. I finished the third leaf design needed for the starboard side of the barge last night. I applied some Wipe-On-Poly and I am happy with how they look, so rather than continue noodling with these I am just going to press on. I have 5 more carving designs to get done for the model.
Next I will mount these three on a piece of scrap wood so I can make a mold. I will pull a bunch of castings in resin for those who dont wish to carve them for their model. I just hope these masters dont get ruined in the process because I plan on adding them to the model shortly after.
Chuck
-
Bill Hime reacted to Chuck in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
I am just using a #11 blade right out of the package. But I do know folks who make their own micro chisels in different shapes. That is above and beyond my abilities and time allotment for these so I am going to stick with whatever I can buy already made.
Like Keith said...I think its just my technique and stroke and its something that will get better with learned experience. It would always be nice to find a trick or product that does the job....a silver bullet so-to-speak........ but I think its just a matter of learning the correct touch and the correct amount of pressure and angles while slicing.
I dont want to over analyze my attempt because then you end up never finishing. So rather than fall prey to "analysis Paralysis" I am just going to keep going and apply a finish. There is always the next project and I will just find comfort that I will hopefully get better with more practice. I find myself slipping into the paralysis and must fight that....its a horrible thing.
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from phebe in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
The more tannin a wood contains the higher it's propensity to react (oxidize) in the presence of UV light. I've not worked with Bloodwood at such small scale.
Managing moisture content of your woods is everything. As I do for furniture, etc.. I maintain color matched pieces together and don't cut them until I'm ready to use them. I think especially for cutting planking/decking, I would cut them 24-48 hours before use. this gives any stress in the grain a chance to relax, but keep them bundled and straight.
I am building a "humidor" for the new shipyard to store my materials while they await to be used in the build I'll post the construction of the humidor when I start it.
Teak, would be interesting. It has a pretty open grain pattern. I would think as with any wood, a careful selection of the pieces chosen would be worth trying on a larger scale model
Bill
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from phebe in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Good morning Mike!
Yellowheart..and Redheart are really nice woods. Their grain is tight and linear. I have ripped down some test planks/decking strips, it is flexible, holds a nice crisp edge.
Over time they will both fade a bit with a grayish hue. Proper sealing and finishing to really close up the wood's cells can minimize this. The fading is more dramatic if continuously exposed to sun light.
Bill
-
Bill Hime reacted to PamW in Armed Virginia Sloop by PamW - scale 1/24 - enlarged Model Shipways plans
Found teak.....holy crap. Smallest piece they had was 8'x5.5"x3/4".......cost 60 bucks. Took it to the museum and used the cross cut saw to cut off 24"... then the industrial table saw to rip that in half. Now it's manageable for my little one. Stuff smells funky.....oily.....gorgeous color.
Pamela
Grrr......need to figure out how to make images smaller than 2 meg
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from Elijah in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
YES.....You do need one...end of story...That is all for now..
Bill
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
YES.....You do need one...end of story...That is all for now..
Bill
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from Canute in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
The more tannin a wood contains the higher it's propensity to react (oxidize) in the presence of UV light. I've not worked with Bloodwood at such small scale.
Managing moisture content of your woods is everything. As I do for furniture, etc.. I maintain color matched pieces together and don't cut them until I'm ready to use them. I think especially for cutting planking/decking, I would cut them 24-48 hours before use. this gives any stress in the grain a chance to relax, but keep them bundled and straight.
I am building a "humidor" for the new shipyard to store my materials while they await to be used in the build I'll post the construction of the humidor when I start it.
Teak, would be interesting. It has a pretty open grain pattern. I would think as with any wood, a careful selection of the pieces chosen would be worth trying on a larger scale model
Bill
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from Canute in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Good morning Mike!
Yellowheart..and Redheart are really nice woods. Their grain is tight and linear. I have ripped down some test planks/decking strips, it is flexible, holds a nice crisp edge.
Over time they will both fade a bit with a grayish hue. Proper sealing and finishing to really close up the wood's cells can minimize this. The fading is more dramatic if continuously exposed to sun light.
Bill
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from CharlieZardoz in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
YES.....You do need one...end of story...That is all for now..
Bill
-
Bill Hime got a reaction from DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
YES.....You do need one...end of story...That is all for now..
Bill
-
Bill Hime reacted to Hill202 in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
I need to stop reading the thread " Can I live without a Byrnes table saw" before it convinces me that I need one.
-
Bill Hime reacted to Hill202 in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
The side filler blocks are installed. It looks like the port side needs a little more work.
-
Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
I've never used that kind of plank bender. Joe. The really thin veneers don't really require anything more than a little soaking in water if you need them to turn sharply (lake the stern of the AVS). The first planking of the hull uses much thicker stock in general, but is softer wood and bends easily with soaking. For my second planking on "Independence" which is 1/32" thick, I'm using heat: just an old clothes iron. It works great!
-
Bill Hime reacted to Hill202 in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Do any of you guys use a plank bender like this? I bought it off that auction site ( not sure if I can reference that site here).
-
Bill Hime reacted to Hill202 in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Thanks Dave, yes it is his practicum. I did register for his forum awhile back. I considered a build log there but was not sure how much activity there was on his forum. I wondered where the rest of your log was. I'll be sure to check it out. I really like the way you "paint" with wood.
-
Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Joe: You mention "chapter one". Are you using Bob Hunt's Lauck Street practicum to build your AVS? If so, you can join his forum, where I posted my full build log for my AVS. My log, and several others are there that were never posted here at MSW. My MSW log is really the very end of the build and doesn't show very much.
Our Emblem ®
