shihawk

Your certainly giving us something to aim for , If i can even come close i,ll be happy 
 
Boyd.

I had started with 5mm ply and then changed to 5.5 mm so i agree the practise is usefull . Did get my sheets to day and thankfully all is good  . so onwards and upwards 
 
cheers Boyd .

Sorry to hear of your mishap but now you have got me worried , I had problems getting the AO sheets printed and went ahead anyway .Am hoping to get them to-day so will need to check .At least it,s only ply but it,s the 
time wasted that would annoy me .You were better to find out now than further down the line .
 
Boyd

Tks all for lookin in.  I am taking pics on an i-pad and it seems to distort the colors quite a bit , but u get the general idea . Still can,t figure how to get pics in correct order and add text in between so forgive me if it seems a bit muddled at times . My naming of individiual parts may be a bit basic at times so bear with me if i mention " pointy bits " or " curved thingies " as i try to explain myself . Enough confessing !!!!
I haven,t managed to find anywhere local that can print those humungous A0 yet (another advantage of living in the sticks ) so took a chance and went ahead with adding the stem knee and keel assembly . Only variation to Chucks excellent instructions was that i glued the curved section of rabbet to the stem, and then fitted this to the ply bulkhead former ,meaning that any trimming to fit the curve came off the ply rather than the pear stem. Everything seems to have worked out ok . I must say this is a very clever and simple way of forming the rabbet line which is something i have struggled with before . Thanks Chuck .!!! Although as the pics will show i also did a few other variations . I used 0.5 mm brass wire to simulate the bolts on the keel and i used a strip of almost but not quite black wood for the false keel . I do like the contrast of different woods and as the build progresses this may become a habit , Managed to set up the build board and made a few of Chucks brackets which work great and easy to make .

Tks for all the likes folks ,some times i will need encouragement . I made up the bow section from pear and although it may not be to everyones taste i love the look of natural wood grain , this has just been given a coat of sanding sealer for some protection and again i,m pleased with this type of finish 

The learning process continues , a few pics of the process , nothing new as i have used the other excellent build logs as a guide  . a few lessons learned , at this scale 1:48 the pencil method of caulking i think is not thick enough and will experiment on the upper deck for improvement , and may even consider treenails ?? although the chances of building a full ship at this scale are small, learning new skills was the whole idea , and would like to thank those involved in it,s planning and conception ,it certainly has opened up a whole new side to the hobby !!    Next lesson learned is to keep everything as square and even as possible from the beginning to save time and work later on !!!  Next is unless u have the proper tools and skills buy your wood as premilled as possible , in my case i,m having a few probs continually resetting saws and remembering settings , but maybe thats just me . On the subject of wood , i have found pear and cherry a real pleasure to work with compared to some of the kit stuff which i was used with , and will deff use them in future  . One other point is i changed my glue type to a fast setting variety but think i have overdone it and will change back to a slower set , 
last pic shows a simple way of shaping  the wales , worked fairly well but needs refining . As usual my report would read , doing ok but could deffinately do better , all i can say is i will try ???

after a log break a bit more progress! finally got fore shrouds and t'gallant shrouds rigged- next job the ratlines.


as always thanks for the replies and encouragement with the build. take care all.
 
Keith
 

Hello everybody, I made som progress with the stern sanding and adding some parts to the hull. The sanding is a bit free style anf I am not shure, if it is good like it is. I will propably recognise the problems once I start planking.
Matthias

I had started with 5mm ply and then changed to 5.5 mm so i agree the practise is usefull . Did get my sheets to day and thankfully all is good  . so onwards and upwards 
 
cheers Boyd .

Before doing the bollard timbers, I started fairing the interior of the bulwarks, as suggested by Chuck. As much of a pain as the hull exterior was to fair, the interior seems even worse. Using chisels, a Dremel sanding drum and sandpaper, I started at the bow and continued back about halfway, before deciding that was enough for now.
 
I then moved on to the bollard timbers. It is fortunate that Chuck has provided a number of extra blanks in the laser package, as I needed all of them. Even then, my work was hardly perfect.  Little errors would occur and be exposed immediately by photography. What you will see are the best that I came up with.
 
Bob
 
Bob

Hi All,
 
I've assembled the stem, keel and bulkheads. Now you're probably wondering where the pictures of the assembled stem is.
Well that makes two of us. Somewhere in cyber space I would assume. Seeing that the stem and keel are now covered with
blue painters tape I can't take another picture. Sorry we'll just have to wait until the hull has been faired.
 
Limbering up the shoulders and hands for the numerous hours of sanding.  
 

 
 

I’ve now fully recovered from my scaling error and am ready to move on.  One upside is that I used a softer plywood for the bulkheads this time.  I was using 5-ply Baltic birch.  My former is still made of that, but the bulkheads are now Home Depot grade birch plywood, which is filled with something much softer and lighter than 5-ply Baltic birch.  That should make fairing much easier.  I’m now ready to start gluing bulkheads into position and fairing the hull.

A milestone today....I finished the planking on the port side.   That feels good!!!
 
I still have 9 strakes on the starboard to go.  I am happy with the results although as always you always tend to spot and focus on your mistakes.  I am very happy with how the cedar looks on such a large subject.  I will let you guys decide if you like it as a good wood to use on such projects.
 
I have only used wipe on poly...I decided not to use the gel stain after seeing how the finish looks.  The wales are a mess and will need to be cleaned up but I will wait until all of the planking is done.  I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel...BUT then there is the treenailing.....Ughh!!
 
Comments and questions , dont hesitate. 😊
 

Thanks shihawk. I know there are two camps on this. One is the same color above and below the wales and the other is using two different woods. I'm in favor of whatever you think looks good. 

The last days I started building the stern. I found it quite challenging to get it all in the right place. It is good, that there are several laser cut pieces, so you can take a new one, if one is sanded down too much. 

Very nice work....That looks very good and the spacers worked as they should.  You should however have sanded the tops of the transom pieces before you glued them in.   That will be difficult to do now but not impossible.   You should use the 3/64" thick transom (clamp it in position) so you can trace the shape of the transom top  and sand them to match.

Planking continues....it is important for me to go slow and take care to make this a neat planking job.  The planked hull is so visually important because of the size of this model that I am being very deliberate with each plank added.  I am planking with the hull upside down and although the strakes look very good when viewed upside down, after I finish each strake I will flip the hull over so I can view it right side up.  The run of the planks will look very different and this allows me the opportunity to make adjustments with the next strake if needed.  
 
I want a nice slope up of the planks at the stern.....but also at the lower bow.   So even though I am following my tick marks very closely....I am still making adjustments when I see a dip or bump in the run develop.
 
Remember that there are NO stealers at the stern.  There is only that one drop plank at the bow.  With these lower belts, you can run the planks off the stern post rabbet and then sand them back flush.  We will add the stern post when planking is completed.
 
Note the front of the garboard and its shape along with where it ends in relation to the scarf joint on the keel.  It is not too far forward and its not too far aft.  The end is about 1/16" forward of that joint on the keel.
 

 
At the stern, the strakes were sanded flush to the rabbet.....and note the gentle slope upward being created.   I only have six more strakes left on this side and you can see how I am following my lining out.   You can see the remaining tick marks and picture the run of the remaining planking.  At the stern on this lower belt, you must switch to wider 5/16" planks and shape them according to your tick marks.   The planks along the stern post do get wider as one would expect.
 

Let me know if you have any questions !!!!  Comments are welcomed.   No stealers at the stern which matches the contemporary model and will look very distracting.  There is absolutely no need to use them.

I've completed cutting out all of the bulkheads. Nothing to difficult. Just slow going and as you know there's a lot of them.
Next I'll cut out the three sections for the former. Something I do while I'm cutting out the former and while I'm not working
on the bulkheads I always keep a weight on them. Though the humidity is a fairly constant 50% I still don't want to take any chances.
 

My progress reminds me of the sprinter who is the last off the blocks when the gun goes off. I finally received my 1/4 ply from National Balsa. It got lost in the delivery cycle but ultimately showed up at my door. I ordered 10 sheets and oddly they sent 12. It is all shrink wrapped so a quality inspection will soon be made. I guess they know I am prone to mistakes. Fabrication of the bulkheads should begin very soon.
 
My race metaphor is how I feel right now but I do understand this is not a race to the finish!
Joe

Some progress.
 


I did have to replace bulkhead 28 because of sloppy cutout - it's the only one that seems to have been badly treated on the scroll saw.
 

The replacement looks better
 

 
 

Hello everyone:
Well I have finally got some time to get back to the shop and made a little progress in the last couple of days.  Got my build board set up & ready to go. 
I made the braces using left over plywood from the bulkheads.  I got the base board from Menards, it was a bookshelf that was damaged on one end.  Cost all of $2.49 and it works perfect for this job.

The rabbet strip has been installed on the bulkhead and I also got the stem assembled and about ready to go.  I have yet to sand down the former to meet the rabbet strip.  That is next on the list. 
Then on to getting the rest of the keel assembly attached and finish up a few little details.   
Then hopefully move on to all of those bulkheads in a few days.  Looking forward to that....👍

 

Hi Ben. I know we talked about another project earlier but when the Winnie came around I had to build her!
Thanks for the welcome Matt. I look forward to building alongside everyone.
Thanks for all the like too!
 
For printing the bulkheads I purchased a ream of 28lb paper instead the normal 20lb paper. I felt that the extra
thickness would help keep the paper from stretching/distorting when the glue was applied and then pressing
them onto the plywood. Probably overkill but it made me feel better.  I use rubber paper cement from Elmer's
to glue the bulkheads to the lite ply.
 

 
To help keep tear out on the back side to a minimum I use a very fine scroll saw blade from Saw Bird. Someone
from here turned me onto them years ago but I don't remember who so I can't give credit where it's due.
I used a double tooth 24 TPI blade that is 5" long and .031"wide x .013" thick. Much finer than a regular blade.
 

 
Here is the backside of one bulkhead. It is just as it came off the scroll saw.
 

 
One down and a whole bunch more to go!

Quick couple of pics tto show progress , Still nothing glued but all cleaned and fitted to what will be the rabbit line , i thought it better to do this before fitting the raddit and hull? ,which will come next with build board . 

I got to work on the bulkheads this morning before it got hot.
It is now 94 degrees, I am sure glad it is fall season now.  🙄
She is starting to fill in and now a little over half of the bulkheads are cut out and fitted on the bulkhead form.

Frames all glued in and now preping for fairing .I noticed a few of my frames slightly out of line from port to stardoard (left to right ) so took the precaution of adding small spacer blocks to keep everything in line before fairing , added advantage of making the whole frame a lot more solid . Found a simple solution to supporting the bulkhead extensions (sticky up bits ) ,some old stiff packing foam ,with the added advantage of supporting the hull when upside down for fairing .Again some pics ..in no paticuliar order .