shihawk

your looking good Michael . its not untill you get a few runs of planks on you realise just how big this kit is .i also soaked the end of the planks overnight and then used a plank bender as well to get the extreme bends needed . your right to let the planks dry well before glueing as i read somewhere that the glue dosent work on wet wood .Be carefull when jointing the but ends of the planks ,i always try to spread the joints so that you dont have 2 or 3 together and make sure all planks are securely glued as a loose or springy plank later on will be difficult to correct . there is a great tutorial on this site which i have used several times and points out all the things to watch out for far better than i could . Im glad your enjoying the build cause for a beginner this is quite a challange but your doing a great job . We experts have to stick together . Have fun!                                                                                                                                 Boyd.

Hi there Shihawk,
 
To let you see where I have got to, the 3 photos below is as things stand today - just the planking of the hull for the starboard upper decks and the bow. Just getting this far has proved very fiddly and time consuming and, as you can see, I have needed to be somewhat creative in cutting and fitting the planks, particularly around the gun ports.
 
My next steps are to first finish gluing in the small missing areas of planking; then to apply wood filler to all the remaining gaps and completely sand all the planking. Like you, I find bending the planking quite a challenge and have tried a couple of different ways of softening up the wood. The one that seems to work best for me is to soak them in very hot water for at least half an hour and then pin them to the hull to shape and dry them out first before gluing. I have also purchased a Strip Bender from Cornwall Model Boats Ltd which has proved to be very useful, particularly in shaping the smaller pieces of planking like those I have used on the bow section.
 
In the longer term, it is my intention to paint the ship in the colours of the completely renovated Victory, as she stands in Portsmouth today and is shown in the "Haynes Owners' Workshop Manual". Hopefully, this should cover up most of my construction errors - at least I hope it will!!
 
I'm thoroughly enjoying the build but, when finished, I'm not sure about us being called "experts" - that's going to depend very much on "how well" we finish it. If and when I do, I think my next boat's going to be a rowing boat!!
 
Kind regards,
 
Michael

Greetings all
A little bit more progress over the last few days. I have completed the main mast braces with only a bit of tidying up to do and a few threads to belay. The next task is the mizzen mast which only involves the brace for cross jack yard, as the topmast and the topgallant braces are fitted with the driver gaff. So once the cross yard jack is completed I need to make the driver boom and the driver gaff, and that will take me a few days. So here's a few photos and thanks for your comments and for viewing DAVID

shihawk, I know you wanted to go with an all natural wood finish. Have you heard of yellow-heart wood. It's absolutely yellow and might serve for the yellow stripes on your Victory. I haven't worked with the wood myself but constantly see it in woodcraft stores. Ebony or a dark wood with ebony stain might suit you for the black parts of Victory as well. I just figured I'd add my two cents while looking in on your log. I plan on tackling the Billings Victory one of these days myself and am looking in on others building the same kit.

Did you start the planking yet??????

Still working on the 2nd planking. I provided my method for the fitting the strips around the gun ports.
 
Now I'm working up from the stern I thought I would provide a description of the method I'm using, which is pretty similar.
 
Mark cut position

 
Check fit after cutting plank

 
Dry fit around the bow using map pins

 
Mark and cut plank at stern end

 
Glue the plank and pin along the edge using map pins at regular points

 
Here is some overview pictures of progress to date

Glad to see my fellow Billings builder is back and in a great new fitted out workshop . I think ill trail behind and pick up all the info  Making a hash of this post but was trying to write under each picture .Anyway  gunport strips glued and nailed just a few spaces to fill and sand to leave ready for first planking .I thought this was supposed to be a double planked kit but i think i will have to supply the second planks myself . I decided to go with box type dummy gunports as there is no structure between the frames to work from  .Made from balsa as i have no power tools as yet ,made them up from strips and then cut to size . Seems to work ok and will be easy lined which i hear can sometimes cause problems ,Tryed extending the dummy cannons but think i need something slightly thicker  ,would like a lathe but other things come first 

Glad to see my fellow Billings builder is back and in a great new fitted out workshop . I think ill trail behind and pick up all the info  Making a hash of this post but was trying to write under each picture .Anyway  gunport strips glued and nailed just a few spaces to fill and sand to leave ready for first planking .I thought this was supposed to be a double planked kit but i think i will have to supply the second planks myself . I decided to go with box type dummy gunports as there is no structure between the frames to work from  .Made from balsa as i have no power tools as yet ,made them up from strips and then cut to size . Seems to work ok and will be easy lined which i hear can sometimes cause problems ,Tryed extending the dummy cannons but think i need something slightly thicker  ,would like a lathe but other things come first 

hi bikerbob . Not nice when it happens . Im no expert but from what i have read on this site depending on wwat pieces and how badly they are bowed it may be better to consider getting them replaced .Most of the main manufactures seem more than happy to replace any damaged or missing parts.I know it can hold up your build but better that than a twisted model . At least contact them and see what they say . 

tks Antony ,at 1:75   12ins = 0.16ins = 4 mm that sounds about right

good to hear your on the mend .take it easy ,we can wait 

glad to see you got your log up and going , good choise of scale for first build .My first was 1:100 and second 1:64 .the difference is incredible the 1:64 so much easier and more room for detail .Cant imagine what could be done with 1:45  dont worry about running out of wood a few more strips wont cost much  . take your time ,keep having fun ,and yes time flies when your enjoying yourself .

tks I guess its like all builds no hard and fast rules  I will keep my eye on your build for guidance .

CONGRATULATIONS on a great log of a superb build.   Im just about to start rigging my Cruiser and have been doing some research through the forem and books and so far your log has been very helpful especially as a lot of the terminology is new to me . Your pictures explain so much.   I think i have all blocks and eyes on the masts and believe my next move is to clue masts to hull followed by fitting shrouds and ratlines    My question to all you more experienced riggers is if i fit the lower shrouds now will they not be in the way when i get to fit the running rigging . I APOLAGISE  for asking questions on your log but you seem to have a lot of expert followers .Once again FANTASTIC build and keep the good work and pictures coming

who am i to argue with nature

who am i to argue with nature

Dead-Eyes and links
 
On dry fitting the 5mm dead eye into the strop it left a gap in the bottom of the strop, and I thought this will be tricky to connect the first link too, so I glued up the gap and made a metal link 13mm long ,to join the dead eye to the link that is pinned to the hull, I was not that pleased with the result but did find that when the dead eye in the strop is pushed into the slot in the channel it closes up the gap in the bottom of the strop,so I fitted the two links that are pinned to the hull, the preventor link and the toe link and then added the metal link, the middle link made from .5mm wire but the tension was not right so I tried joining the links with .5mm black thread which gives a nice tight linkage and with the knot tied in the channel notch it will not be seen when the covering timber goes on. One thing I would have done differently would have been to fit the 3mm dead eyes and links on the mizzen channel before the gun port lids the lids made it a real pain to fit the links and quite a few naughty words were uttered. The photos below show step by step my way of doing the linkage on this kit, I must say that I much preferred the strops and linkage in the Victory kits, also the kit comes with two toe links short but an email to Jotika quickley brought the parts in the post.
 
Linkage positions marked on hull side

 
Preventor and toe link added

 
.5mm thread through strop

 
Knott making middle link tied

 
Middle links ready for trimming

 
Fore mast --Main mast & mizzen linkage completed

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Have just looked at some of Frolics work and i must admit it is incredable. Must find out more about different wood types and staining effects before i start my next build  . I had been thinking of the caldercraft Victory but now rekon i should do a smaller cheaper build and try experimenting on it . Or  i could buy different samples of wood and use different staining and varnishing methods  .Need to keep a good record of what method produces what finish.Will search this site  for ideas first, no point in repeating someones mistakes .[i will find an excuse to start my VICTORY sooner rather than later] 
As you say MOG its my build i can do it my way.I think i have finally got a plan worked out in my head, thanks everyone who posted coments as all advice is wellcome .Will keep you posted of my progress if anyones interested.

Bill .your passion is inspiring .I thing you could build any model you want .Welcome to a great hobby and look forward to your build log good luck  .Boyd

Found this excellent video tutorial, well worth a look
 
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMmGFWJhi8E

Continuation

For my two cents worth i can hardly add much to Adelines' response as she hit most of the points that I would bring up. Aesthetics are key to the builder and I for one am building for my pleasure first and for accuracy second. I am not that experienced a builder to think 'museum quality' so I can be flexible about being true to the original.
There is a saying here on MSW... your ship, your decisions. For most this is a hobby to enjoy with color schemes and various kit/scratch build alterations (bashing) left to the shipwright.