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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Right then - I masked her according to the Black scheme I have gone for, then outdoors I got my Semi-Glass Black Tamiya rattle can out - did what the Pros suggested (sat the can in some hot - not boiling water in a cup) this is supposed to improve the flow from the can. Dear I show you ............. OC.
  2. Thank you, Carl - I thought I had pulled off the towing device 😉 What I might do is to add a tiny amount of exhaust staining - hoe that is carefully applied to black I dont know. OC.
  3. She is looking good mark - keep up the momentum not far to go now. OC.
  4. I have worked out what scheme I am going for - it will be the pathfinders night version - Like this one i found on the net. OC.
  5. I have attacked it on three fronts - lower the height of the tail wheel - put a weight flat spot on the same tail wheel - and do what I did with the main legs. OC.
  6. Wasn't much off a loss - just a bit frustrating - but like I say its in the spares might be able to re build it as another mark of spit, dont know yet. OC.
  7. Mine will have the same wing as this one had - not the clipped or extended (like in the build James did above) and the pointed rudder as apposed to the more rounded one. OC.
  8. Thank you James, I will start a build log when It arrives - would be great if you follows along. OC.
  9. I have a replacement sorted now - its an Eduard Mk IX (Late Version) it comes with a bit of Bressin/Eduard PE and a canopy mask and decals for six models, it should arrive some time this week. OC.
  10. Hi all, a good day today I did the kind of work where you feel your not getting very far - but in fairness a fair bit was actually done, starting with the undercarriage units I painted therm flat alum then I put them aside to dry - then I added a couple of coats of paint to the wheels, after drying with a hairdryer I then highlighted them to bring out the tread details - after I painted the hubs flat alum. I then studied my idea for extending the front units as the Revell ones sit to low, I dry fitted the two engine cowl units and worked out how the undercarriage sits in place, its is a tight space in there and the legs needed to go in at an angle to fit, I then worked out if I used a 1-2mm strip glued it it and bored a couple of holes - it kind of did the trick. They are not fitted yet just dry fitted as there is a system where the whole wing needs assembling first - but the flaps also need assembling and fitting as they are movable surfaces, this all needs doing before the engine cowl/undercarriage units can be fitted together. I also worked on the inside section of the wing that will be in view - like the inner groves when the flaps are dropped - also the rads in the wings were painted then fitted inside the one section of the wing. OC.
  11. Yep I have my eyes on one - been doing proper research this time and found a kit by a company called Eduard they are renowned for doing resin and brass stuff - didn't know they did kits, anyway they do a very good Mk IX in the same 1/48 scale - might have some good news in a day or so - will report back, might be starting a new build put it that way. OC.
  12. Its ok mark, this and my Mossie have to be right (my farther watches me over my shoulder) so I want to do my very best for him, and I didn't know the ICM kit was going to be such a pig to build or be in such bad shape after closer inspection - and like I said the instructions were total rubbish most of what I was doing was guess work but look where that got me.... OC.
  13. A little trick I found out for myself - to stiffen the spindle parts of the leg assemblies, I work some CA along them with a fine stick/fuse wire then heat it fast with a hair dryer to set the glue quicker, this really seems to make the thin plastic parts a lot stronger. OC.
  14. Yep, PE bendy boxes - I remember them form my HMS Warpy kit at 1/350 scale hard enough to see them let alone bend them - and yes you are right - its a "one time only go at bending the walls in to make boxes - what I found useful was bending one face at a time against something flat of square then gently do the remaining faces - then if there is an opening dab some CA on a fine stick or fuse wire inside the box to glue the edges. OC.
  15. More added to the undercarriage units including the mud guards and oil tanks. OC.
  16. While the fuselage is drying I checked the instructions - they call for the main undercarriage units to be made - they are made up from two side units and a few other smaller sections - its a case of gluing then supporting while they glue, then when complete again support and put on one side. OC.
  17. Hi all, with the Spit no resigned to the spares department - its given me more time to work on the Mossie, firstly I attacked that nose detailing that I had done before - I took the masking of the nose and carefully re taped it level with start of the frame nearest the fuselage, then I used a very narrow piece of light sanding stick - and sanded the strip I had put on, this went quite well with the sanding stick piece being only very narrow - I was able to control where I was sanding, after I tacked it with tape to get rid of any dust - then I went out side and sprayed a couple of coats of surface primer just over the front area - job done. OC.
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