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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Really good start denis, with the wood stock (not the uk music place) have you tried ebay? OC.
  2. SO! here's the plan - next I will fit the nose glazing unit (after fitting the masks to it) will probably dry fit it first to check for fit, then I will check the main cabin canopy unit - then mask that also before fitting, this will leave me with a completed fuselage minus the rudder and stab - flaps. The idea is it will probably be more manageable to hold and spray the first (all over coat) with out the wings attached, I will also count the rudder and flaps as separate items to paint them off the fuselage, then after letting that to harden - I will be able to mask up for the first layer of grey camo using the blue tak and paper/tape (i got to day). Well thats the plan. OC.
  3. More progress today - I took the tape off both fuselage sections and surveyed the seams, they were not too bad just needed some light sanding with 1000 wet and dry, I then turned my attention to how the two sections join - they lock into each other but it was very tight so the sanding stick and several dry fits and with a kind of "click" - they joined together, I pushed a bit of glue into the seam then pushed them together. I left it for a few hours then I added a pe fuel cap ontop and while at it I even put two masks on the lower forward windows. Oh! I also added a strengthening strip with 2mm paper underneath the fuselage. OC.
  4. Looking good mark - coming together now, same day posting we both closed up our fuselage. OC.
  5. I have the Tamiya AS Rattle Cans to do both camo colours and the underside, gonna get some Blue Tak for the masking. OC.
  6. Thanks Lou, to be honest I am dreading the rattle can stage - just dont want to ruin it with shabby spraying, I have read up and watched some videos on how to do it. OC.
  7. I then decided to have a go at the remaining fuselage section - again in two sections but with the rear wheel assembly needing building/painting/weathering and fitting. Because of the prob;em with the wrong size main undercarriage legs - I rectified the tail dragger wheel by filing away at the tab where it sits - I then reached a point where it was closer to the bottom of the fuselage (it would have done this with additinal weight or when in a heavy flight mode (fuel bombs etc). After fitting the wheel unit and cleaning up the edges (slight bevel on them) I glued them together and held in place with tape. So this is where I am at present. OC.
  8. Good day all, more work today - I decided to glue the front fuselage in one go as my original idea would have bottle necked me, it glued quite well secured with tape - all the seams closed ok, while this was setting I had a go at the wheels - these needed joining together then I worked on creating a flat on each bottom them opening up the treads. OC.
  9. Yep, thats both the entrance and escape hatch - the two man crew get into it via a narrow ladder thats stored in a locker between the outer skin and forward floor (the ladder slides into itself like tripod leg). OC.
  10. Looking great denis "wow our modeling sure gives us shake of the head moments when things dont go to plan". OC.
  11. There not pushed together correctly yet ken, just taped loosely - the idea is I will concentrate getting a tight bond on the bottom first, brace it with my clamps, leave it over night, then when fully glued I will do the same to the top (nose area) then the top behind the cockpit. First though I will glue the inner assembly to the one wall and bottom to pull it in where the entrance hatch is - as there is a gap underneath at the moment. OC.
  12. Hi all, More work today, I finished off painting and detailing both side walls, then I fitted the range finder to the front side wall, I then dry fitted them together with a bit of tape holding them in place - not glued yet. OC.
  13. Superb work. I have considered HMS Fly As my next wood build but not in this scale I was thinking of 1/72 to complement my Pearl build. OC.
  14. I'm a Rum man - cant stand Brandy will take a JD though or Jim Beam but give me Rum any day (what else for a Pirate) OC.
  15. Great seeing you back on her. OC.
  16. I have three sets of glasses - one long distance to check for that kit part that "Pinged" far away, and mid focal pair for when I am getting closer, and a pair of close up ones for when I am right on top of the part - then a magnifying glass and tweezer to pick the damn thing up. OC.
  17. Just keep at it mate - practice make perfect and we all are learning as we go along - we are the Big learning club. OC.
  18. Also found these on Ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=masks+for+revell+b+17+f&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Masks++for++Revell++B17F&_sacat=0 OC.
  19. Thank you denis, same here with checking the edges I have been doing a fair bit of checking and re checking and making sure they are square, an old trick I picked up - is to put a slight bevel on the edges so the facing edge is tighter than the inward one. OC.
  20. While researching the Revell Mosquito a few things manufacturing errors came to light - firstly the main undercarriage units are not quite the right length and the wheels are made to large and to thin, giving her a to low frontal height, secondly the spinners are two flat and not pointed enough, the work around I have decided to try are to reduce the drop of the rear oleo leg by a few mil, and with the wheels I managed to get a pair of Airfix ones (they are supposed to be more accurate) with the spinners I will have a go at making more of a point on them with careful sanding. This should hopefully help a bit. OC.
  21. As craig said - sorry to hear about your missing parts nothing is more annoying or having wrong fitting parts in a kit. OC.
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