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Old Collingwood

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  1. Old Collingwood
    Hi all Happy New Year, i have been carrying on with the hull work shaping the bearding line especialy around the bowsprit til - "Crack" the bowsprit snapped away were the grove was for the bearding line, so i decided as it was off to leave it that way and tackle it as two seperate jobs, but i cut away and made a joining area first, i have also been working on the rear of the hull with a bit of planking and shaping and will do the cutout for the rudder post arrangement, but question do i make the hole in the hull for the top of the rudder post round or fan like?. Anyway here a few pics in b&w because my camera processes better that way for some reason..? C.
  2. Old Collingwood
    Seasons greetings to all, i have been moving on to the bottom keel section and decided to cut out the bearding line for the garboard plank, i know i should have done this while flat but i have found having the ribs in palce, act as a good guide for the groove, i was abit puzzled over the correct size/placement of the garboard plank, but i decided on the taper ending on the second rib before the sharp curve upto the front of the forecastle. I also decided on a slope at the keel post insted of a slot (almost like something we call here a "ha ha") its an invisible drop when viewed from one side, this will help the hull planks to sit against the keel post at roughly the same thickness. Heres two pics showing this stage... C.
  3. Old Collingwood
    Hi Alistair, Im in the uk and we have been getting alot of storm force winds 80-100mph and severe flooding leaving many people without power and flooded houses, yep i fitted the bulwarks and painted them so that when i fit the planking over the false deck floor, i will not get any paint on the decking planks. C.
  4. Old Collingwood
    Thank you. C.
  5. Old Collingwood
    I have been carrying on building through our violent storm we have here now, i have been working on shaping the gun ports and constructing the hand rail, this was quite technical as i had to build and attach some small stumps between the bulwarks and the rail, then fashion the rail from a length of 4x1mm then i had to bend this to follow the hull shape. Here are the pics. C.
  6. Old Collingwood
    Me either .... C.
  7. Old Collingwood
    Hi hamilton, if i dont catch you - happy holidays have a great yule and all the best with the family and the new little one. C.
  8. Old Collingwood
    Thank you hamilton, i realy appreciate your kind words. C.
  9. Old Collingwood
    Many thanks. C.
  10. Old Collingwood
    Many thanks, the planking of the hull around the bow has/is being a pain even with soaking the planks in boiling water, as at this scale 1.5mm x 5mm is abit un-flexible to bend, i should/have cut them in half to aid bending. C.
  11. Old Collingwood
    More progress over the last two days, i have decked the forecastle with the correct planks and carried on with parts of the first hull planking and sections of the second, i have also finished the inner bulwark planks and sanded ready for painting red ocre, i will do this before planking the main deck to keep piant off it. Any way heres some pics. C.
  12. Old Collingwood
    After discussing the correct color for aged period decking, i am posting a picture i took of a water pump at castle, i think it gives a good impression of how the decking may look after many years of the elements. C.
  13. Old Collingwood
    Thank you, its sometimes quite hard at this scale but i try my best. C.
  14. Old Collingwood
    Looking good hamilton, how did you manage to bend the rail around the top of the bulwark on the forecastle bow, especialy as it is aginst the grain?. C.
  15. Old Collingwood
    I have carried on planking the inside bulwarks and have reached the poop deck area, here i have stopped and concentrated on planking the poop deck instead, but - after checking the kits wood stock i noticed that i had used the wrong wood to deck the forecastle and the start of the poop deck, so off it came with a sharp blade underneath and abit of a light sanding and with the corect planks i started, after several hours i reached the outer edges and i decided to try to fit an outer edge of planking and cut the normal lengths into them, this was hard going at such a scale and thiness of planks anyway i think i have done a fair job of it, so i sighed a deep breath and sanded and added a light wash of diluted pva to seal it. I ve also revised my plans abit. Hers the pics
  16. Old Collingwood
    I have started working on a pattern of -inside and out with the wooden planks for the inside bulwarks, and the first hull planking this helps with cutting out the full gun ports, with strengthening the walls. Here's a couple of pics. C.
  17. Old Collingwood
    Thank you hamilton, hope all is good with you and the little one, thank you for the compliment, i have looked into the correct gun port hight to cannon sizing and have done just as you suggested(great minds think alike lol) and the top of the darker strip represents the hight of the bottom edge of where the gun ports will be cut out to, and i will add a flat finishing wood rail supported on square section stubs that will go across the top of the gun ports. Whats your feeling about the correct scale thickness of the tops of the hull walls? i think about 12-15 inches or 3-4mm & 100 scale, if this is so it gives me scope to put in three thicknesses of planks - two outside(first and second planking) and an internal bulwark section, also what kind of hight would you construct both the poop deck and forecastle? i think about 6 feet. C.
  18. Old Collingwood
    I have been carrying on with my first planking and managed to bend the second level around the bow/bowsprit and continued my way up the poop deck area so i could cut away the bulkhead extrusions stopping me from planking the deck of the poop deck over its full width, as i want to do this with the deck away from the build, to aid test bleaching to get the correct weathered finish i am after. I just hope i am achieving the right look and shape of these attractive frigates? Here's some pics... C.
  19. Old Collingwood
    Hi hank, Great build a very interesting a mighty ship to build, have you also considered getting hold of a copy of Under Siege, as i believe that was filmed on NJ and should give some interesting viewpoints. C.
  20. Old Collingwood
    I have been carrying on with my first planking of the hull, with bending thinner strips one at a time(three in total) around the sharp angle of the bow, i have left them slightly thicker than the thickness of the normal first planking strips so i can sand them back to get a nice smooth equal profile, this has worked quite well as trying to bend the thicker planks around sutch a tight profile is tricky and the planks just kept bouncing back when set even with ca/strong gp and wood glue. I have cut a bearding line into the bowsprit now and this does help with holding the planks, so the desision now is - do i go with the normal thickness of first planking for the rest of the bow sections, or spend more time with thinner strips and as i have done just cut these back to the first buklhead, and join the normal planks thier?. Anyway its coming on ok i think, slow but methodical and going in the right direction.
  21. Old Collingwood
    I have started working on the top section of hull panking stage 1, so i decided to construct the bottom gun port rail first, i have had the most incredible head ache trying to bend this plank around the forward bulkheads to meet the bowsprite as i did not cut in a channel on the bowsprite to anchor the planks into at that stage. I remedied this by cutting back this piece of planking to the first b,h, then i am fitting 3 strips of deck planking as they are the same width, and with them stuck together they are about the same thickness as the original, it helps bending around the bow aswel being thinner. C.
  22. Old Collingwood
    Well i managed to get a nice wethered grey/aged look to a section of my forecastle decking, but it does seem too dark and almost like a battleship grey in shade, i have tried a rough sanding with a salt paste to try to lighten but not much has happened, does anyone have any ideas of anything i could use to almost bleach the deck lighter, to a light grey shade as wood goes naturaly with age and the elements. C.
  23. Old Collingwood
    I have continued my build by fitting the false main deck and checking for acurate line and shape, i think it has settled quite well apart from needing abit more shaping and sanding around the bulkheads, i have then started dry fitting both the forecastle deck and poop deck to check for alignment and camber, i have needed to take the hight down abit, as they were giving a scale hight from the bottom of the poop deck and forecastle deck to the main deck of about 9 feet, so i sanded the bulkhead tops down to a scale hight of about 6 feet. Next i decided to attack the rear cabin window frame work, by fitting a horizontal support roughly half way between decks, i have also added two small supports on the sides. I've also added the oar cutout framework for the horizontal lengths, i have worked on a scale gap of two feet, i imagine this would be about right allowing a two foot square oar opening. Here are the pics. C.
  24. Old Collingwood
    Here is a quick picture to show the first attempt on the forecastle deck with the weathering agent applied. C.
  25. Old Collingwood
    Well ive sorted out how to age planks and simulate the silver/grey color that wood goes when open to the elements, - firstly i purchsed a bottle of cooking vinegar and some metal washing up pan scourers, i found a container with a secure air tight lid and emptied the vinegar into it acompanied by the scourers and left for two days, then today i tested on my completed forward planking area that has been just left un treated, after letting it dry(with the aid of a hairdryer) i was amazed at the effect-its gone light-to mid silver grey just like old wood, i dare say with more applications it might lighten even more, but it depends on how light it should be? C.

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