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scrubbyj427

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Everything posted by scrubbyj427

  1. Hi Frank, my sincere apologies for not responding to this, I somehow let it slip through the cracks. To answer your questions, I bought a 9volt battery plug and connector from Evan’s LED (on msw vendor list), I did indeed carefully drill from the bottom of the keel up and out the side of the bulkhead former. These parts are very small so I drilled two small holes and then used a No.11 blade to carve out a square hole in which the female end of the electrical plug would permanently fit. As you can see in my build log, there is a series of feeder wires that supply all the lanterns throughout the model that I ran up through the spirketing and into the deck beams where then feed the lanterns. The lanterns are 3D printed and I’m happy to share that file with you, I used Evan’s chip leds, smallest available ( I believe) to simulate a warm candle light. i hope this helps, now is the time to begin installing all this wiring, I think just before chapter 4. It was a very difficult task to hide all these micro wires successfully so take your time. JJ
  2. While waiting for my final QG prints I’ve decided to move up to the upper wales before I finish the lowers. On Portland, the upper wales are not painted black so care has to be taken when planking as they need to look pretty like the rest of the planking. The upper wales are not as thick as the lowers but still marginally thicker than the hull planking, I dug into my nice AYC and cut my strips at .090”. First off I printed paper templates to locate the upper wale relative to the laser cut upper “frieze planking”, once lightly glued on I attached battens above and below the margins of the wales. Once satisfied with the run I began planking, but first I took a blade and removed the part of the paper template that occupied the location of the upper wale, it’s not needed anymore. No secrets here, just the Chuck method of tick strips and heat guns until planks fit tightly as they should. you’ll notice my horrible glue mess I make at the seams, I like to edge glue the planks and I use a light charcoal to simulate caulking, this will all sand off and look tidy when complete. I’m hoping to have the upper stbd wale completed this coming week and possibly the lower as well. You’ll also notice in the above photo that the lower wale is of low quality wood, this will get painted black obviously so feel free to utilize all those subpar planks you’ve been holding onto all these years😂 JJ
  3. Speedwell is looking good Rusty, off to a great start. Glad to hear you’re doing well and have been forced back to work! Will be following along. JJ
  4. Those are really quite amazing Chuck. I’ve spent a bit of time now really thinking about how you made those on the laser table and I’m coming up with a blank stare into my coffee cup. They look 3D printed.
  5. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/hms-winchelsea-1764.php#!/Cap-Square-set-for-Winnie-Cannon-fits-1-15-16-and-1-9-16-Carriages/p/674735038/category=36635011
  6. Too late for my Winnie but perhaps my Portland (someday) will like a few sets of these.
  7. She’s looking very nice Fred. Great paint work, I won’t even attempt.
  8. Congratulations Steve! Incredible achievement! It’s refreshing to see this early version of Victory.
  9. It’s been awhile since I checked in but your Winnie looks magnificent Glenn! And now you are officially ahead of me! JJ
  10. Beautiful work Tom. You’ve done a great job developing this model. Looking forward to seeing more.
  11. Small update: I installed the lower counter, this is a laser cut piece and it fits pretty well, you may have to finagle the port openings a little but it’s close. You can see I added some material, so I’ll add that on to the cut file. It’s easier to sand down then add. The install is pretty straight forward, I focused around it fitting the ports more than anything and the rest falls into place. I first got the back side wet so that it wanted to curl up in the correct direction, after I test fit several times and the wood was dry I used PVA and clamps to hold it down. Around the edges of the ports and the middle frames I used CA as it wanted lift off. I did screw up a little and left about 1/32 up the upper gun frame exposed, I’ll add some filler pieces in tomorrow. You’ll also notice the lower part sticks down too far, this will require some trimming to allow room for the planks to land on. I will carefully do this tomorrow. now I can finish the lower wales as well as the upper counter and begin planking. Thanks for looking in. JJ
  12. Beautiful work Tom, It’s really coming along nicely.
  13. The preliminary design for the stern carvings are now complete, I’m going to review them and make any adjustments necessary and proceed with the prototype sets. Looks like I need to get moving on the model so I have something to attach these beauties to. JJ
  14. Yes, that is exactly what I say to people. I found that I literally had to look up when viewing these giants and your camera removes that task. The scale and beauty of this range is simply indescribable.
  15. I’m back in the states, making a pit stop home to laser cut a few things, I should be back at it in a week or so. Will post some updates as I begin my planking journey. For now here are some photos of the Everest base camp trek, which took me above 18,500’ and through 32 miles of rough Himalayan terrain but the views were simply spectacular! JJ
  16. Thank you Glenn. The Himalayas are not for the faint of heart! However you did take a trip to Patagonia, I’m confident you could navigate beyond the parking lot (the parking lots are non existent, which is great!). Thanks for looking in.
  17. Thank you Matt, I appreciate it. I’ve spent many hours trying to think of little conveniences for the builder that won’t compromise the appearance of the finished model. Will resume work soon. JJ
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