Stuntflyer
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Everything posted by Stuntflyer
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Fantastic job on the capstan Thomas. I am always looking forward to seeing what you are going to do next. Mike -
Does anyone have this sander? http://www.rockler.com/triton-oscillating-spindle-sander
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Actually I found it on Google under "vertical oscillating drum sander"
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I have looked online for a mini drum sander but have been unable to find one. I prefer not to use the drill press conversion idea. Does anyone make a small drum sander that they would recommend? So far I have been using this. . Mike
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● Great Cabin Bulkhead: I managed to get this one done today.
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● Forward Cubbridge Head Bulkhead: Now that the Byrnes table saw has arrived I'm finally able to finish this bulkhead. The kit supplied ladders, although not too bad, were replaced with ones made from boxwood. There was only a tiny area in which to glue the ladders and the PVA glue I first tried did not hold well enough. I switched to 5 minute epoxy applied with a needle and that worked out very well. Any excess glue was easily removed minutes later with a sharp #11 blade.
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Randy, I found this on Ilhan Gokcay's log of the Matthew. He shows how he made his tops. Scroll to the bottom of the page. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/566-matthew-1497-by-ilhan-gokcay-scale-150/page-3
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Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Stuntflyer replied to SawdustDave's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Happy Birthday Dave! Mike -
William, I'm not saying that. I'm saying 1/8" = .125 1 foot = 12" (12 ÷.125) = 1:96 scale
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William, I found the answer through Wayne's reply which I simplified my own crazy way. .example below To find the scale ratio for 1/8" scale: 1/8"=.125, (12 ÷.125) = 1:96 scale
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I did see that but again isn't that for scaling up or down as well? What I was trying to find out was how to convert for example, 1/4" scale to a ratio like 1:48. The formula is above in my 3rd post or you could use Wayne's method.
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Pat, Looks like it scales up or down which is great, but not exactly what I was asking for. Still, this is a useful tool which I can use. Thanks!
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How would this work? for 1/8" scale: 1/8"=.125, (12 ÷.125) = 1:96 scale for 5/32" scale: 5/32"=.15625, (12÷.15625) = 1:76.8 scale
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Wayne, thanks for the great explanation. Mike
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Can fractional scale be converted to a ratio, for example. . . 5/32" scale = 1:? Mike
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Thanks Randy, Your build is looking very nice and I really like the colors of the decorative parts. Scratching the "tops" seems like your only option. Those metal stanchions look really bad and I have no idea why the wood parts don't match the drawings. I might start on my "tops" soon but I first need to make some gratings which I will start on this week.
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yeah, I was wondering about the price too. Seems a bit high.
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Dr Per, Jack, I found the Dremel Workbench here. . .http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221495363403?item=221495363403&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true
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Jeff, If you look at my photos on page 1 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8494-mayflower-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways-532-scale/ you will see how I did the bulkheads. The first bulkhead was done using four 3" angle plates. The weight of the plates was enough to hold the first bulkhead in place. Instead of trying to clamp the remaining bulkheads to the former, I squared the bulkheads to the former using two angle plates and a few clamps. I did them one at a time until the glue was set. You should be able to add a bulkhead every 15 minutes with this method. It is important to have a slight amount of play so the bulkhead can move side to side before gluing. This will allow the bulkhead to maintain a 90° angle since the PVA glue will swell the wood and tighten the fit. Using this glue allows time to adjust the bulkhead-former vertically before the glue sets. I have never used the MS fair-a-jig so I can't tell you how to make it do what you want. The method I described has been used by others with good results. If you don't have angle plates you could substitute something that has a 90° angle. Hope this helps! Mike
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● Pumps: The pumps were made according to the kit instructions with one change. When I tried making the main cylinder from 3/16" dowel the diameter ended up too small according to the plan. I was successful when I used 3/16" square strip and a "V" groove jig to hold the strip in place while forming the eight sides. The black bands were made from card stock. I glued the tiny spouts to a piece of scrap wood with PVA glue to hold it while sanding them with my newly acquired "True Sander". I dipped the spout into boiling water to release the glue. This photo shows how small the spouts are. Finished pumps with a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
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● Capstan: While waiting for the tools to arrive I thought it might be a good opportunity to scratch a few parts. Here is the first one, the capstan, compared to the kit supplied one.
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Looking at other MS Mayflower logs it appears that some of their kits supplied "Tops" made from wood. Here are mine which are made from Britannia metal. I definitely won't be using them.
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Don,Thomas and Jim, thank you for the compliments! Since my last post I have bought some hand and power tools to facilitate the scratch building of the remaining boxwood parts. Some I can make by hand others would prove too difficult. I would have used the kit supplied gratings if they were closer to scale and better quality. Unfortunately, they are not. I have seen the ones from the Brig Syren kit and they are definitely better. Since I plan on building from plans on future builds this should prove to be money well spent. Updates coming soon! Mayflower kit gratings
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Get well soon Adam! I forgot to mention a while back that the Mayflower kit I got has Britannia Crow's nests. Yours look like they are wood. I will have to find a way to scratch them. Dave's method looks interesting.
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● Poop Bulkhead: A few things have made me rethink my approach to the remaining deck planking. The boxwood strips I received vary in thickness between .031"-.050". I think it would be difficult to sand the planks flat without damaging the coamings that are supposed to be glued to the main deck beforehand. Also, the kit supplied gratings do not have a tight fit when assembled and the holes are too large according to the plans. I'm working on a solution for both and will post the results hopefully soon. Meanwhile here is a photo of the Poop Bulkhead. I made a photocopy of the diamond pattern shown in the manual and used the kit supplied 1/16" white tape around the edge, with half its width showing. I left some room for the planking to run under the door as well.
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