Stuntflyer

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

I was just advised by Chuck to pull those eyebolts with the rings from the bulwarks. Its easier to seize them to the ends of the breech line first and then insert them into the holes.  Otherwise it will be impossible to seize the rope to it while its in the bulwarks.
 
Update: Luckily, I was able to use my old monokote heating iron to heat an eyebolt and easily remove one. Only 27 more to go. Aaaargh!

I was just advised by Chuck to pull those eyebolts with the rings from the bulwarks. Its easier to seize them to the ends of the breech line first and then insert them into the holes.  Otherwise it will be impossible to seize the rope to it while its in the bulwarks.
 
Update: Luckily, I was able to use my old monokote heating iron to heat an eyebolt and easily remove one. Only 27 more to go. Aaaargh!

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
 
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
 

 

 

 
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
 

 

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Today's post is the result of the last two weeks work. A little embarrassing perhaps since it seems that little was accomplished. Still, I'm pleased with the result so I really can't complain. 
 
The eyebolts and ringbolts were made from 24 gauge dark annealed wire. For consistent positioning I made a simple jig. The wedge shape allows the jig to angle so the ledge on the bottom can sit tight against the gunport. The small piece on top is a handle. I was a bit nervous about using CA here for fear of messing up the paint so I used slow drying epoxy. I placed a tiny bit onto a pin and worked it into the hole. The cleats along the bulwarks are all 7mm from Chuck. They were pinned and painted. Again, they were glued in with slow drying epoxy.
 

 

 

 

Turned some pillars for under the thwarts freehand with files. As there are only five to make, it was not worth the effort to make a contour pattern. The pillars will be almost invisible in the finished model anyway! The stock was 2" square.
 
Started cutting and fitting thwarts. The ensign staff step was also added under the wider thwart before the area became inaccessible. The thwart itself has now been drilled for the staff and installed (third photo).

Had some time today to rig the carriage tackles.   I used 1/8" single blocks and .012 light brown rope.  I also used my 3mm hooks.   These were all made off the model and took some considerable time to make.   They fixed in position and the end of the tackle glue to the deck.  Then a small rope coil was glued on top of that.
 
I also took the time to experiment with a few rope coils for the pin rails.  I wanted to improve my abilities here and there is no time better than now.  With no rigging in the way I can experiment with different lengths and techniques and see how they will look.  I think these look pretty good.   I tried about a dozen different sizes and configurations.  The goal of course is to make them look somewhat natural without making my crew get in trouble for being so sloppy and undisciplined.  
 
Now to go through the whole process again on the other side.  Yikes.
 

 

Wonderful detailing work, Druxey.

Wonderful detailing work, Druxey.

Wonderful detailing work, Druxey.

Wonderful detailing work, Druxey.

There definitely is something to be said for measuring a bunch, checking things a bunch, and taking it slowly.  I've been concerned about getting the wales correct, and identical on both sides.  I think I pulled it off.  Both sides, to the best of my observation, have identical runs, and line up perfectly at both the bow and stern. 
 
I used the batten strip again to determine the run of the thin 3/64" x 1/16" plank that is located just below the gun ports and is higher at the forward most gun port.  I drew that plank run with a pencil.  Again, taking my time is key.  So, in other words . . . this baby will be launched some time in 2028! 
 

 

 

 
Erik

The breech rope was made using a technique I saw on an actual contemporary model.  The splice for the button of the Carronade was simulated.
 
As mentioned I am using Syren .035 light brown rope.  All of my .035 size rope is four strands.   I dont think it would look as nice otherwise.  Four stranded rope just make it work nicely.   But essentially,  the entire breech rope is made to length....3" long.   (addendum) After consideration I think the breech line should be no longer than 3".  It looks a bit long in the photo. The eyebolts and rings were slipped on before the end was finished off.  You can see that in the photos.   The eyebolts were 28 gauge wire while the split rings were 24 gauge.
 

 
Then I used a sharp but wide awl to simulate the splice. It has to be large enough that the splice will fit over the button of the carronade or cannon.  In the center of the breech rope I pushed the awl through so there were two strands on top and bottom.  Hence the need for four stranded rope. Then I applied some watered down white glue and let it dry.  Once dry the simulated splice stayed to shape.
 
I have seen many real splices attempted and they just look to big and out of scale.  I couldnt pull that off convincingly. Even though this is a cheat, I think it looks better because it stays smaller.
 

 
 
I could have just gone with the usual wrapping once around the button of the carronade...but that is tough to do in my opinion.  It wont stay in place and you must use glue so it wont come undone.  This ends up pulling the finish off the barrel etc.  In the end it just looks too sloppy for me.  So I gave this a try.  No glue is needed at all.  It slips right on the button and wont come off.  This allows you more control to set the other eyes into the brackets of the carriage and then place the whole thing on deck.
 

 
Hope that makes sense.   I also stiffened the line with the watered down white glue before starting.  Let it dry.  I just find it easier to work with when its a bit stiffer.  At least with the breech rope anyway.  I started with about a 5" long piece of rope.
 
Chuck

Hi All,
 
Well I've completed the hull planking and the square tuck. Taking ones time,
using the planking fan, planning out the belts and run of the planks actual
makes for a very enjoyable experience. No more forcing planks and getting
an uneven planking job. Follow Chucks description and methods and you won't
be disappointed.
 

 

 

 
Also you'll notice that a work area cleaning was recently completed!
 
I'll be out of touch for a couple of days so I'll apologize now for any late response.
 
 
 

Thank you!!!
 
Here is a first crack at a breech rope.  I am using my .035 light brown rope.   I think it looks pretty good.   This was just a first attempt to go through the motions and now I will detail how I did it.    You can spend endless amounts of time tweaking how this rope falls so it looks natural.  After a while one has to say it look good enough.    Four more to go and then the tackles are next.
 
Note to self.....paint the underside of that cleat. LOL
 
Chuck
 

Its an interesting discussion.   Well,  I think we have a winner.  Here is the model with the trucks painted red.  I do in fact like this much better than the bright trucks.   Thanks Greg!!! 
 
I know its just a matter of personal tastes but I think I will pursue this approach from now on.  I think its more pleasing and less distracting actually.  Although I will leave the black trucks to someone else to experiment with.
 
I see the bulwarks are very dusty...much touch up to do.   I will wait until after a rig these which is what I think I will do next.   It will be a nice break from building another five carriages.
 
 

 

 

 

The inner bulwark sheathing proved interesting. It took several pattern pieces to figure out the developed shapes of the planks. The first photo shows one plank being wet-bent into position. The card pattern for this is in the foreground, as well as patterns for the steersman's bench.
 
The second photo shows both inner sides complete and the vertical portion of the steersman's bench in position. The top of this has been made and painted. The same strategy as for the other horizontal surfaces was used to build it. The paint is in the process of drying and I'll install the top tomorrow.
 
There are several possible items I could now tackle, but I think that the risers (horizontal planks that support the ends of the thwarts) should be next.

Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
 
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
 

 

 

 
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
 

 

Just a small update. .
 
After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.
 

 
Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.