Stuntflyer

Welcome to my build of Chuck's HM Cutter Cheerful. Most of the parts will be scratch built. Others like the false keel, windlass, rigging material and blocks will be purchased directly from Chuck. The wood for this project (all sheet stock) was purchased from Jason at Crown Timberyard. The quality of his wood is excellent and I am looking forward to working with it. As with my other builds, there will be many new things to learn and I will rely heavily on the knowledge base from MSW to help guide me through the process. So please don't hesitate to post your comments along the way. Thanks!.

Thanks so much Ian, Rusty and all of the "likes". I'm sure that I must have done at least 3 of each of the sills and lintels in an effort to get all the angles and bevels to a passable state.
 
Bob

Back at it after a travel break. I've done the stern frames and the framing of the stern ports. Fitting and placing those sills and lintels was a fussy business, even using the stern drawing as a template, as suggested by Chuck.
 
Now the fun begins. Time to start the planking.
 
Bob

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

You seem to have resolved your issues beautifully. The planking looks great.
 
Bob

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

Bob, it was nice meeting you too. I will be following your Cheerful log which is looking great,btw!
 
While planking the counter and transom, I ran into a few issues that had to be resolved. The back of the stern frames had to be shimmed an additional 1/32" so that the counter planking would sit 1/8" above the square tuck filler piece. This is important because the square tuck is 1/8" thick and should be close to flush with the counter planking before sanding. While planking the transom I noticed that the last 3/16" plank would not cover the remaining stern frames, so I went with a wider 1/4" plank. If I had gone with a 3/16" plank, I would not have been able to achieve the proper curve at the top of the transom. I didn't think of it at the time but I could have used a tick strip to determine the proper width for the four planks.
 

There was a dip in the planking so I spiled the next strake to even it out.  You can make it out at the fourth bulkhead from the stem at the end of the drop plank.  There is a light pencil line on the strake where the problem was.
Maury

I treated myself to Chuck’s new serving machine. Not that I need to serve anything at the current point in my Syren build , but I always like to get acquainted with new techniques early on so that I don’t run into too many problems when I really need to apply these techniques later.
 
During the last few months I had thought about a suitable design for my own serving machine. It is not really difficult to find good examples in the internet. However, when I looked at the amount of work, which would go into the design and the material, especially suitable gears, Chuck’s new ‘Serv-O-Matic’ kit along with the reasonable price tag quickly changed my mind. Images 1 and 2 show the content of the kit. As all of Chuck’s products the kit is high quality (solid Cherry wood) and easy to assemble – basically only the laser burn marks need to be removed (to have a nice looking machine) and the wood sealed with rub on poly (image 3). The end result is a beautiful, very sturdy, and nicely functioning serving machine (images 4, 5, 6). Image 7 shows the result of a test run with a thread, which was not really suited for serving, but was conveniently ‘available’. It may give a little idea what kind of results can be achieved with a little practice and the right serving thread.
 
This was the 3rd time I bought products from Chuck’s Syren company. I know I am repeating what other fellow modelers have already written in their build blogs. But each time I ordered something I was amazed about the excellent service, the reasonable pricing, and above all the outstanding quality of the products.
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 

Image 4
 

Image 5
 

Image 6
 

Image 7
 
 
 

Mike, Your stern frames look great.  Very clean.
Maury

Mike, great to have met you yesterday and to have seen your Cheerful in person. It will make following along even more enjoyable.
 
Bob

Thanks guys for the comments and "likes".
 
Mike, after seeing yours, I'll be happy to have mine come out as well.
 
Had the pleasure of spending some time with Chuck, and seeing his work, and I'm eager to get back at it.
 
Bob

Thank you Slog.
 
I've finished the reinforcement blocks finally, although I chose to completely fill the final two gaps at the bow rather than use the blocks, in order to help me see the 'flow' of the hull up there when I get to fairing.
 
While doing the reinforcement blocks, I used the opportunity to correct any minor out of square issues with the bulkheads.  I did this by measuring at multiple points along the top of each bulkhead, always taking my measurements off of bulkhead 'O' which I took great care to square up with all the stern bulkheads and the keel.
 

 
After measuring to determine if I needed any adjustments to the bulkheads, I would cut individual blocks and then fine tune them until they caused the measurements from bulkhead 'O' to be right where I wanted them, and equal on both sides.  I was having some issues where the addition of the glue prior to final fitting would actually change my measurements slightly, so I devised a technique to apply the glue after fitting the blocks in place, so that I did not need to compensate for the glue thickness on the ends of the blocks.
 
After my final measurements and test fitting was complete, I cut a 'cross' into both ends of the block with a razor saw.
 

 
I would then slightly widen the leg of the cross that would be 'outboard', and then place the block without glue, and hold it in place (if needed) with needle nose pliers, while I used a syringe to inject the glue into the cross via the slightly wider leg.
 

 
As can be seen here, the glue would flow through the cross, and would almost always bubble out of each of the other three points almost equally. 
 

 
This method seemed to work quite well, and I had no measurement changes between the final test fit, and the glued in blocks after starting this system.  After the glue had set for a couple minutes I would then use the syringe to lay a 'bead' of glue around all four edges of the block where it laid against the bulkheads.  Testing several blocks that were completely dried shows that they have plenty of strength with this system.
 
After inserting the last two spaces with filler blocks, this is where I'm currently at. 
 

 
Every bulkhead is even with bulkhead 'O'  along at least 3 points on each side, to less than 0.5mm now with all reinforcements in place.
 
Next I'll begin to work on the sub-decks braces and sub-decks for fitment, and the bow fillers I think.

Looks great Bob!
 
I'm looking forward to your future posts. I'm sure that you will be ahead of me in no time.
 
Mike

I finished the planking above the wales on both sides up to the top if the gun ports.  I have yet to add the moulding since I have yet to cut a razor blade that scraped a suitable moulding shape.  I’m still working on that. 
Also, I realized after re-reading Jon’s (JSGERSON) build log that I forgot to add the sheaves on the sides.  So I ending up removing planks, created the sheaves and carved out a place for them on new planks.  Once everything was put back together, the result looks pretty good.  
So the sides are done; and once I get the moulding to look right, I can start planking the lower hull.  I need to drill the treenails, of course, but I have to wait for my drill bit order to arrive. 
The photo looking from the stern shows there are problems that I hope will be covered by the fashion pieces.
 



 

Planking of the port side above the wales is now completed. Both sides have had an initial sanding with 180 grit.
 

 
In preparation for the stern planking the outside stern frames were thinned to 1/16" in thickness. I'm looking forward to getting started on the planking so I can tighten up this area which is still somewhat fragile.
 

Planking of the port side above the wales is now completed. Both sides have had an initial sanding with 180 grit.
 

 
In preparation for the stern planking the outside stern frames were thinned to 1/16" in thickness. I'm looking forward to getting started on the planking so I can tighten up this area which is still somewhat fragile.
 

Hi Chuck.
 
The planking looks great and I'm glad to see you've gotten some time to work on the Cheerful.  

Finished planking the bulwarks on the port side after installing the false deck.   The false deck was 1/16" thick.   Then I added some filler strips at the bow and stern where I thought I needed it.  At the bow to beef up where the hawse holes will be.  You can see these strips below which I used 1/16" thick scrap strips for these filler pieces.
 

 
The first plank (3/16" wide and 3/64" thick) was placed right below the gun ports.  The planking below the ports inboard is thick and stands proud of the planking between the ports.  This will be accomplished in two layers much like the wales.   Placing the plank directly below the ports first allows me to get the run of the planking correct as it must follow the bottom of the ports.  Then the remaining planks were added below that and above.  Once completed the second layer of thicker planking was added.  This is the spirketing.  It runs from the deck to the port sills and is thicker....but not by very much.  The original planking draft has the spirketing just 1/2" thicker.  I used 1/32" thick planks for the second layer and actually thinned them down a bit more.  Then I softened the edge where it stands proud along the sills.  I try to soften all of the hard edges like this.  The thickness of the hull where the caprail will be is 5/32" thick after planking.  The cap rail will be 3/16' wide hanging over a bit outboard. 
 
Once I get the planking done on the other side I will install the cap rail.