Stuntflyer
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● Great Cabin Bulkhead: I managed to get this one done today.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● Great Cabin Bulkhead: I managed to get this one done today.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● Forward Cubbridge Head Bulkhead: Now that the Byrnes table saw has arrived I'm finally able to finish this bulkhead. The kit supplied ladders, although not too bad, were replaced with ones made from boxwood. There was only a tiny area in which to glue the ladders and the PVA glue I first tried did not hold well enough. I switched to 5 minute epoxy applied with a needle and that worked out very well. Any excess glue was easily removed minutes later with a sharp #11 blade.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Chuck in Windlass for Cutter Cheerful 1:48 by Maury
I am going to paint my windlass red... just in case you are wondering. It would be easier to do before you assemble the individual completed sections of the drum. It looks like a promising start so far. Yes it was designed so that you could use the laser char to gauge when you are done beveling. It should all be gone from the edge when you are done...but just barely. I also icluded an extra face or two for some segments. But let me know if you need additional for boo-boos.
I just used an emery board that was 1 inch wide with a medium grit to create the bevel while holding the faces between two fingers. Basically eye-balling it. Your method seems much more accurate. But if you do plan on painting it red...you can fill the few cracks and seems that may be there.
Chuck
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Stuntflyer reacted to Maury S in Windlass for Cutter Cheerful 1:48 by Maury
While waiting for more lumber to continue with Cheerful, I ordered the windlass kit from Chuck. It's very neatly organized and the pieces (50 +) are very small. The most impressive pieces IMO are the sprockets. I could never do them from scratch with the tools I have.
For the sides of the barrel parts, the instructions just say to bevel them. I need to be more precise if I want it to look anywhere near as nice as Chuck's illustration. I cut a jig from some scrap to the exact angle of the eight pieces (22.5 degrees). For those interested, each angle for an (any) sided piece is determined by dividing the number of sides (8) into 360 degrees = 45. The bevel on each piece will be half of that number = 22.5 degrees so that when they mate, you get 45 degrees. By holding the barrel sides against the jig while moving it back and forth over a sanding stick results in the exact 22.5 degree bevel. I sanded them down to just being able to see the laser char on one edge, but when assembled, they were just a hair too wide. I think you have to sand to the point where the char is just no longer visible. Once sanded, I rubbed a pencil along the inside angle so I could see to line up when gluing to the octagonal end pieces. I started with section "C" as it is the largest part of the barrel and best for ramping up the learning curve. Holding the little pieces is tough.
Maury
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● Forward Cubbridge Head Bulkhead: Now that the Byrnes table saw has arrived I'm finally able to finish this bulkhead. The kit supplied ladders, although not too bad, were replaced with ones made from boxwood. There was only a tiny area in which to glue the ladders and the PVA glue I first tried did not hold well enough. I switched to 5 minute epoxy applied with a needle and that worked out very well. Any excess glue was easily removed minutes later with a sharp #11 blade.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Maury S in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Maury S - 1:48 - POB
I thinned the BHs and spine to 1/4" and test fit them. Only one needs to be shifted a bit. I'm lining up the wales markings as my guide. They can be seen on the BHs where the patterns are still glued on.
Maury
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from SawdustDave in Mayflower by SawdustDave - Finished
Happy Birthday Dave!
Mike
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Stuntflyer reacted to michael mott in The Byrnes Saw "inside and around"
Markus I like the chopsticks device. however I would use a sled rather than the mitre gauge. I realize that you are using a very small saw. and understand the waste issue with regard to production methods. I find that sometimes we follow along a line of thinking that boxes us in, I have done this many times where because I have used a particular tool or method, I seem to be locked into that tool or method and attempt to do the next job or task using it instead of thinking about what the big picture actually requires.
As you pointed out using the chisel with the mirrored surface give a perfectly clean 90 degree cut exactly illustrates what I am saying.
I am fortunate to have a large number of good tools that I have acquired over many years, and like yourself they are used for much more than model ship building. It has been my personal preference to use larger tools that are capable of cutting small sizes to good tolerances that to attempt to use small tools that are pushed to their limit cutting large stock.
All that said I am enjoying seeing your innovative attachments and ideas for this very high quality small machine.
Michael
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Stuntflyer reacted to rschissler in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
Thanks, I've been looking at Ilhan's log on this. His tops came out very nice, though a little larger scale.
--Randy
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Stuntflyer reacted to Bob Blarney in Scale conversion
I apologize if I made anybody feel stupid. For many years I was a research professor in a medical school, and occasionally I was recruited to teach either in a lecture hall and/or in the laboratory. Those are two very different places and different crowds.
Well, I'll tell you, that when I was faced with 50--150 bright faces, then I learned that 'There are no stupid questions, but there are many stupid answers.'
It's a matter of understanding what a student is asking, what the student knows, and then explaining how a problem can be solved. But it's more than that -- it's about teaching a student how to learn about how to solve a problem on their own, when nobody else is around to ask for help.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Chuck in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Maury S - 1:48 - POB
That little side to side difference wont matter. I would try and just open the slots up evenly on both sides. Use a sanding stick that is pretty large with some coarse sandpaper glued to it. I just ordered a bunch of plywood so hopefully it will be the correct thickness. If time permits I may cut some sets if the thickness is OK. Its midwest ply...not the 6mm stuff. You must look for actual 1/4" thick stuff.
Dont forget to download the first chapter of the monograph online. I just added it and plan to get the others written within a week or so until I am caught up with my progress thus far. One important thing I always mention is for the builder to always measure the thickness of the ply before they start cutting. This way they can make adjustments to the slots before they start making sawdust. Its awful trying to find accurate good quality ply. It looks good so far though....
Chuck
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Stuntflyer reacted to trippwj in Scale conversion
Since the scales for model building are given in a couple of ways (1/8" scale or 1:96 scale) it sometimes becomes necessary to find the ration (1:96) from a fractional inch (1/8").
The method Stuntflyer shows takes the fraction (1/8) does the division to get a decimal (0.125). Since 0.125" = 1 foot at scale, and not sure why this works but it does, divide 12 inches per foot by the decimall (0.125) to get the ratio 1:96 (1 inch scale = 96 inches real).
Also works for other scales -
1/4"=1 foot becomes 12/0.25 = 1:48
3/32"=1foot becomes 12/0.9375 = 1:128
1/16" = 1 foot is 1:192
1/2" = 1 foot is 1:24 and so on.
This may not work as neatly when converting metric - haven't attempted that part yet!
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from trippwj in Scale conversion
William, I'm not saying that. I'm saying 1/8" = .125
1 foot = 12"
(12 ÷.125) = 1:96 scale
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Stuntflyer reacted to BANYAN in Scale conversion
Mike, have a look at this one - does exactly what you asked I think?
http://jbwid.com/scalcalc.htm
cheers
pat
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from trippwj in Scale conversion
How would this work?
for 1/8" scale: 1/8"=.125, (12 ÷.125) = 1:96 scale
for 5/32" scale: 5/32"=.15625, (12÷.15625) = 1:76.8 scale
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Stuntflyer reacted to rschissler in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
Very nice job on the small parts! I look forward to seeing how you do your tops, as I'm debating what to do about the tops on my model.
--Randy
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Stuntflyer reacted to augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
I got the Dremel table (only) for $5 at a garage sale about 15 years ago!
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from GLakie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
yeah, I was wondering about the price too. Seems a bit high.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from GLakie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Dr Per, Jack, I found the Dremel Workbench here. . .http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221495363403?item=221495363403&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Jack12477 in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
yeah, I was wondering about the price too. Seems a bit high.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from augie in USF Confederacy by Augie & Moonbug - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64
Dr Per, Jack, I found the Dremel Workbench here. . .http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221495363403?item=221495363403&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true
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Stuntflyer reacted to jefzee in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
Mike: Thanks for you sugggestions. I will attempt to follow your instruction and am confient I will be successful. Jeff
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● Pumps: The pumps were made according to the kit instructions with one change. When I tried making the main cylinder from 3/16" dowel the diameter ended up too small according to the plan. I was successful when I used 3/16" square strip and a "V" groove jig to hold the strip in place while forming the eight sides. The black bands were made from card stock.
I glued the tiny spouts to a piece of scrap wood with PVA glue to hold it while sanding them with my newly acquired "True Sander". I dipped the spout into boiling water to release the glue.
This photo shows how small the spouts are.
Finished pumps with a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
● Pumps: The pumps were made according to the kit instructions with one change. When I tried making the main cylinder from 3/16" dowel the diameter ended up too small according to the plan. I was successful when I used 3/16" square strip and a "V" groove jig to hold the strip in place while forming the eight sides. The black bands were made from card stock.
I glued the tiny spouts to a piece of scrap wood with PVA glue to hold it while sanding them with my newly acquired "True Sander". I dipped the spout into boiling water to release the glue.
This photo shows how small the spouts are.
Finished pumps with a coat of Wipe-on Poly.
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