demonborger
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Everything posted by demonborger
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I don't think it was based upon a definitive actual ship, perhaps it was, but I am under the impression that is was merely an approximation for a galleon of the time. Its your build so you are free to make it as you wish. For me personally I paint the hulls of all my ships because I think that looks better. It is a personal preference and I love how white anti-fouling paint looks, and black gunwales.
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Mamoli Victory kit is quite different to some of the other ones on the market. The gun ports are metal and have a notch in the back for the false guns. If you master the technique of attaching them and take the time to get a nice level guideline for their positions (the notches in the bulkheads are usually wrong in practice) then they can be a lot of fun and produce a nice result. Mamoli doesn't supply photo-etched super high detailed parts so if you want those then you will have to scratch them yourself, but it is 1:90 scale anyway so if you don't mind that isn't an issue. The only laser cut parts for the Mamoli Victory are the false keel parts, the bulkheads, the false decks and a few shaping pieces for the stern, bow and quarter galleries. A lot of things will have to be scratch build with the material supplied. If you take the time and enjoy that then it will be a fun build, otherwise it could be something of a nightmare. The size of the Mamoli kit is perfect, big enough for detailing but not too big so as the take up a lot of room.
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No I don't have the kit, I always meant to post it here in the kit section but mistakenly posted it in the wrong forum. I posted here because it is a new release and quite a substantial one that might interest some here. Furthermore I think it is an interesting approach by Billing Boats to release wooden kits of late 19th/early 20th century iron ships, it makes me curious as to what is next.
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Thanks mods. The photo is from CMB and I suspect it is Billing Boats promotional material. First the Warrior and now the Titanic and Billing Boats is very active in developing new kits. It does make one curious to wonder what will come next?
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Lol I mean to post this in the kits section
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Billing Boats RMS Titanic 1:144 Billing Boats RMS Titanic The RMS Titanic was the largest ship afloat at the time it entered service. Titanic was the second of three Olympic class ocean liners operated by the White Star Line, and was built by the Harland and Wolff shipyard in Belfast with Thomas Andrews as her naval architect. Andrews was among those lost during the sinking. On her maiden voyage, she carried 2,224 passengers and crew. Kit includes laser cut wooden hull and wooden strips, fittings set, rigging thread, plan and manual Wooden Hull Scale 1:144 Length: 1880mm Width: 200mm Height: 500mm Part No: B510 This would surely be the longest wooden ship kit on the market, longer even than the Amati HMS Victory.
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I recommend finding a good matt finish spray to apply after the paint job, it will help flatten the colours and ensure that the reflective properties are uniform. But firstly TEST IT!!! Sometimes if use in wrong situation or with wrong technique or atmosphere conditions it can cause flaking. -
Santisima Trinidad: Occre vs DeAgostini
demonborger replied to mangaroca's topic in Wood ship model kits
A word of caution for Santisima Trinidad owners. The kit is fairly top heavy when constructed, so ensure you have a nice sturdy cradle for it or a solid keel clamp. Whilst rushing for the phone I placed mine on the shelf and it toppled over. Fortunately the only damage was the stern casting fell off which was easily repaired. -
The gel variant of superglue will work, put a few dollops of glue on the wood and stick it down, you won't have a lot of time to work with while it sets, but you won't have to worry about mixing the epoxy. A thinner superglue will sink into the wood fibre creating blotches everywhere and hindering its ability to stick properly.
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I love this ship, great build of her so far! White anti-fouling paint looks the best
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Santisima Trinidad: Occre vs DeAgostini
demonborger replied to mangaroca's topic in Wood ship model kits
Personally I think Tanganyka looks the best for deck planking and you can source it from cornwall model boats. Another suggestion is to purchase some red paduac(k) also, in 1x3mm. I suggest it because: 1. The metal gunports (or wooden substitutes) stick out, having the extra material makes it look better. 2. Many people like a red Santisima Trinidad and red paduac is one way to achieve it. 3. The walnut wales are 4mmx2mm and will still stick out above the 1mmx3mm paduac. They won't be as prominent but will look better, 4. 3mm lengths work because the plans indicate the gap is 12mm between wales, enough for 4x3mm approximately.- 27 replies
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- Santisima TrinidadOccre
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Use a set number of planks, it isn't 2 planks, The distance is about 12mm if I remember correctly. So use 2x5mm and something that is 2mm, or just guess the 2mm part and leave it open to be filled with offcuts.
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Really? The white wood supplied in Occre kits is referred to as Ramin, and Artesania Latina also has ramin stips.
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It's a silly comparison. There is what ~3 US manufacturers and well over 10 European ones (mamoli, core, amati/victory, mantua/sergal/panart, caldecraft, artesania latina, occre, constructo, billings, euromodel, Krick). European manufacturers have more interesting flag ship kits (Wappen for Corel, Royal Louis from Mamoli, Santa Ana by Artesania Latina, Montanes by Occre, HMS Victory by Caldecraft, HMS Prince by Constructo, HMS Warrior by Billings, SotS/Soleil Royal by Sergal, San Felipe by Panart, HMS Vanguard by Amati/Victory etc)
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Why not try another ship and wait for the Amati Victory if that is your desire? Perhaps the Agamemnon (also in 1:64)?
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Amati and Artesania Latina are the only two manufacturers with chinese junk kits on the market currently.
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You can see the Billing Boats HMS Victory instructions on their website. It is fairly well engineered kit if you don't have perfectionist standards with plenty of laser cut parts. ARe you sure it still has the plastic fittings? Sometimes the kits have materials updated or changed over time. For example the older Mamoli kits were machine cut and supplied shaped wooden launchboats, where as the newer ones have cast metal launchboats and laser cut parts. It's possible it is still so, and if that is the case then you'd definitely want to buy wooden replacements. Also it doesn't have copper plates as far as I know which are costly to purchase, or you could use copper tape which is cheaper but harder to make look nice. Kits take a fair time commitment and the Caldercraft kit won't really need any supplementing materials other than glue, knife blades and paint. If you aren't a perfectionist then the Billing boats kit is ok.
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It is true that most kits can be kitbashed into something great if the builder knows how. But if we take the original measure we get "By this I mean - which has the best fittings, the best instructions, the most historically accurate, and the one which will come together with the least amount of pain? " Which by most peoples accounts is the Caldercraft kit.
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Honestly I have no idea why the Royal Louis has so few builds :/ http://gallery.shipmodeling.ru/main.php?g2_itemId=76728 There is a Russian build which is so so so so much better than mine :/ Some parts can be changed (wooden head rails instead of cast metal) if the builder so desires, and the instructions could be a lot better. But the core ship in my mind is the most beautiful of all available in kit form. Hmm I need to really finish off the hull of my mamoli Victory so people can see a comparison between the two. It will enlighten many
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Yeah you'd want to take advantage of the fact that the Caldecraft one has ply gunport patterns, that the bottom of the hull is doubled planked and coppered. That the scale is larger so gives you more room to work with. Also the instructions are likely better than the italian and spanish manufacturers kits. Another bonus is that the Victory is usually painted and so with wood filler and thorough sanding you can get a nice smooth surface to paint, and after a few thin coats you can build up to a nice finish. All of this will take time of course.
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Caldercraft is the best on the market currently. I have the Mamoli 1:90 kit, the instructions aren't so good but the basic skeleton is very solid and the kit can build into something nice. It is smaller which is an advantage and certainly better than the Corel, Constructo and Mantua ~1:98 kits. That being said the Royal Louis by Mamoli is a much nicer kit.
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Ah yes, I have pinned on some of the midship chainplates and am doing parts of the deck furniture currently, but I am also distracted by other projects such as my Santisima Trinidad. The idea is to complete the ships hulls including fittings and then do the masts for each and then the rigging.
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I don't think there is a kit of that, or the Endurance. One would think that interest in Antarctic exploration would rank alongside the voyages of other explorers such as Cook and Columbus and even Darwin.
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The most important thing to take away form this is that it is so important to spend the time to sand things to shape, and use filler where required, and paint where it will improve the overall look etc. A good motivator to anyone with an abandoned earlier attempt.
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Hobbyco is even cheaper, but i'm not sure they do overseas shipping. They have it for $335 AUD which is about $300 USD atm. I'm actually quite surprised how competitively priced the Hobbyco Mamoli stuff is in international terms when usually stuff here have 20% to 100% markups across retail generally.
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