demonborger
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Everything posted by demonborger
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Oh did you glue on the upper deck? It will give you some troubles when it comes to putting the cannons in place as the instructions say to feed them through the gun ports onto the carriages (they fit, but only if the carriage is delicately placed). It might be easier to plank up the sides (both layers of planking) and finish that part (including painting/finishing) and then place the fully build cannons into position, and then glue on the upper deck. -
Does the inside have horizonal walnut planks placed? If so you can finish the lime wood and put some wood filler then sand it all down flat. It will make it a bit thicker (but only a mm or so). Then you can plank the inside walls.
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In practical terms it depends how much material you have, I was spiling my Royal Louis but had to change to a different method to cover the hull as material would've run out without covering the entire hull.
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you could buy some more wood, maybe walnut 5mmx1mm and use copper tape to make the plates (maybe 5mm wide) then you can leave the copper for a little or a lot and then seal when desired colour is reached.
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Anyone know much about the Santa Ana kit?
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The solution is! White anti fouling paint But seriously do what you want, if the wooden planking job looks brilliant, keep it. If you think you could do better then go for the copper.
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1:72 for wooden ships - nice size and good cross compatibility 1:350 for modern ships - nice size, ok detail, industry standard, lots of after market photo tech
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I think the Mamoli Surprise is more or less the same as the Mamoli La Gloire but with different castings. La Gloire is a cheaper kit and might be a better base to kitbash, Seeing that you are in Aus, go to Hobbyco, they're the official Aus supplier for Mamoli kits and will probably be the cheapest option.
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Thanks for the info gentlemen
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Does anyone know much about the quality of this kit? The French 74 gunner looks fairly cheap and has nice lines,
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I think there is another build log out there on a dutch model ship forum, might have same good ideas.
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I think the consensus of this kit is that it is not a historic ship but rather loosely based on an antique model. The big criticism of many are the false cannons because the stick out too far and the metal frames because they tend to be very fiddly. Interesting to see if you will use the metal frames or not. If you do use them it might be best to not use the notches in the bulwarks because they don't usually align well. Can you tell me if some of the bulwarks are thicker than others? I got this kit on special but it came the a different shaped box, for mine about 4 of the bulwarks are about 1-2mm thicker. It should look beautiful when complete, hopefully i can use this as a guide for after I finish my Royal Louis.
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Thanks for the info. What are the veneer wood strips like? Anyone else think laser cut gratings are the future of ship kits?
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Pictures of all the contents, nice close ups of the castings and guns.
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Kits from Russian Republic on EBAY
demonborger replied to sailor jim's topic in Wood ship model kits
Zvezda? Nah they don't fall under the ban list, they are one of the better quality plastic model manufacturers. The ban list is of companies that plagiarise other manufacturers kits, with vastly inferior quality materials and metal castings (that are resin and look like they were sculpted by a 5 year old). The majority (in fact all the ones i know of) that plagiarise are from china, of which ZHL seems to have the biggest market exposure. -
Kits from Russian Republic on EBAY
demonborger replied to sailor jim's topic in Wood ship model kits
Are you talking about the ebay seller from the Russian Federation who is selling Soleil Royale, San Felipe, Ingermanland, Golden Dawn et al? If that is the one then they are actually made by Z.H.L a Chinese manufacturer who has copied Mantua/Sergal/Panart kits and the Druid is taken from another. But from what I can tell many of the parts are inferior, the castings are resin also and not metal - look how terrible the Soleil Royal resin casting is. Having said that, does anyone know whose plans they stole from to make the Ingermanland from? That kit does look slightly better than the others... -
What about the gel CA glue? It gives you the quick strong bond, is easier to spread and doesn't sink into the fibre of the wood. Then you can pva the sides to the other planks and wipe the excess pva.
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You could try getting a few rolls of that 5mm wide adhesive copper tape, might be cheaper than buying the plates and could still look ok (although you'd need a good sealer method to protect the hull after it is done).
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did you glue the quarterdeck on yet? Or do the cannon barrels fit through the gun ports?
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I can't find any actual pictures either. I don't think that is photoshopped image, it is probably actually the 3d image render they used when they were designing it. These boat kit manufacturers are very archaic in how they do their marketing though. As bad as the chinese pirate manufacturers are they do present pictures of the various parts of the kit. This is something the others should be doing also. Pictures of all the little bits and pieces, the bulwarks, photo etch, wood strips etc.
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Extremely keen to see some details of this kit. I don't know if there is any functioning steam engine small enough to fit the model (obviously it won't be possible to be to scale) but that would be incredible and something i'd love to see. A r/c rudder and a steam engine built into a modified Billings Warrior.
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Think of it as a warning of how much patience and commitment each kit will take. The more advanced the label the more time you should devote to it. I don't think there is any skill in boat modelling that can't be achieved by practice and patience.
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I think the decking is meant to be left showing the printd pattern, except for where the grating frames and other deck furniture goes.
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I use CA gel based and c23 balsa cement. The CA gel is much easier to use than the liquid form, and it doesn't sink into the grains to the same degree. For planking I put CA gel on the middle of the planks and the c23 along the edges. Wiping off the extra c23. Seems to work well.
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