demonborger

Have you tried coiling it around a brass rod of desired diameter, then cutting the coil and soldering the two parts together? Personally I just bought some eyelets online, not too expensive, big time saver.

http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/review.aspx?id=644 Not sure how easy they are to find on the market now, I haven't seen much HAT stuff around recently.

How do you get your gold decoration to look so shiny?

The unofficial definitive period for the term "period" is the Georgian era, we can thank Jane Austen and the BBC for it If this rule is followed then there is hope we will see a steam/sail ironclad experimental warship... A roman galley poses several interesting questions. Will it have a corvus? Will it have a harpax? Will it have a nice mini ballista kit or two? Or perhaps a catapult? Imagine a rubber band working ballista w/harpax How many rowers to an oar? How many banks of oars? How many castles on deck?

Don't forget to pin the parts if they are big enough, drill some small holes and put a brass rod between them.

Amazing to think that the french trialled 48 pounder cannon on the bottom deck of the Royal Louis. By the 1820's British warships we built as 2 deckers (e.g HMS Asia) with the bigger 32 pounders on both gun decks rather than the 32, 24, 12, 6 arrangement of the HMS Victory.

http://izhevsk.ru/forums/icons/forum_pictures/005520/5520338.jpg That is an interesting idea for a space saving stub/rigged hybrid

Yeah as above if the wales don't correspond to the black colour bands (like the Victory) then the structural integrity will be changed, unless you enjoy jigsaw puzzles - but then again as a builder you main not prioritize that over a wood finish.

If one had the resources and expertise then i agree that exotic woods for different colours will look perhaps the nicest. This link to a Ukrainian/Russian page has many fine examples of exotic wood in use, boxwood, ebony and pear produce a fine result. http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_ambiteux/index.htm For many the exotic woods are hard to source, or perhaps the builder is not quite ready to make good use of it, fortunately their is always paint, or a combination finish. Looking at Chris Watton's 1/64 Victory you can see how good paint can look. One of the nicest things about this hobby is the variety and freedom to create. Wood is an amazing material to work with, it can be cut, shaped, finished, replaced, stained, painted etc

I personally think it looks best when a combination of paint, stain and natural wood/varnished wood is used. Of course each person can do whatever they wish. The paint adds some nice colour contrast i find.

Here are two pictures of the build, the first shows it at an earlier date before i re-planked the bow and keel and painted it. The job was ok but my preference was for white anti-fouling paint as it gave a better contrast.

Shouldn't the gunports be staggered like in the plans?

There already Victory kits at 1:200, 1:180, 1:150, 1:100, 1:98x3, 1:90, 1:84, 1:75x2, 1:72 so having one at 1:64 would target the market of builders who want something BIG. I'm sure a lot of builders will buy it first and worry about storage later because it will be the nicest most modern kit on the market that offers something that the other kits don't.

Beautiful build so far!

Yes I understand perfectly. I just thought it was a bit funny how it ended up the way it did. It's an interesting contrast between plastic ship kits which settled upon 1:350 and 1:700 (Japanese love of standardization I suppose) and wooden kit manufacturers who go for a variety of scales. As far as the Victory is concerned it's much better to have many different scales available as a consumer rather than 10 kits all in the same scale. Although it'd be nice to have a 1765 version as well as the 1805-present versions. The size is great advantage for this new Amati one, but I think perhaps the most interesting aspect of all is the construction method. It looks like it would be funner to do and perhaps easier to do than struggling with cast metal frames or having to measure-drill-file-make frame inserts. Have the Amati guys ever thought about developing an ironclad or steam-sail era ship?

So, Amati makes a 1/72 Vanguard 3rd rate, and a 1/64 Victory 1st rate, and Caldecraft makes a 1/64 Agamemnon 3rd rate and a 1/72 Victory 1st rate. I suppose the question is, if a second rate was to be made by each, what scale would it be (hypothetically speaking)?

Old Sydney Town the theme park? That place closed down a few years back, rather sad really

Hey, does anyone use a matt finish spray over a varnish to remove the gloss/shine and make dull? Any ideas about how to use it properly and how it could go wrong etc.

Without trying to sound too rude the ship could do with some sanding and a second layer of planking. I'd take off the false guns on the side, cover it with some wood filler and then give it a nice big sand, firstly with a thicker grained sandpaper, then finishing with a thinner grain sandpaper. Then apply the second layer of planking (which should be a hard wood of some sort).

I found the sapeli that Occre provides to be very nice to work with for a single planked hull and they supply so much of it too (at least in the Trinidad).

Hi guys, this will be my first build log. It is of the Mamoli Royal Louis, it isn't exactly to the plans so far, the difference being main the bulwarks have been made thick and the railings are also a bit more bulky. This is the photo of the kit. http://www.mamolimodel.com/images/mv40.jpg Don't expect great photography and don't expect a nice clean build (it's my first...). I started it late December 2012. Currently it has been double planked and I am in the process of adding the fittings and fixing up the paint. I also have to finish the bottom of the side galleries. I redid the stern transom to fit it up, the kit has some cardboard inserts which I attached but i did not like, so i replaced them with plastic with X patterns etched into them.There was sadly a little bit of CA cloud but I suppose I will attribute it to a lack of cleaning of the glass I won't be rigging the guns because at 1:90 scale the blocks and hooks won't look right. Mamoli say the ship is the 1780 ship along with a fictitious blurb about the American War of Independence, from what I can see a ship called Royal Louis wasn't present at any significant engagement but more information would be appreciated. Having said that I kinda think the kit itself (and the Heller one) is based on the model of the 1759 Royal Louis that is held in the Musée de la Marine. On completion I will have sails that have been purchased separately. Any assistance regarding the history of the ship and in modeling matters will be much appreciated. Rigging experts assistance will be very appreciated!

I am building the Royal Louis now and have painted the bottom of the hull white and the wales black. Based upon french late 18th century models. I am still considering whether or not to paint the bulwarks red. Royal Louis model from French National Navy museum.

A combination of both looks the best I think.

I wish that photo never existed or more to the point I wish that 'out of stock' sign was turned into a 'in stock' sign.

i use Atelier Free Flow. They have a nice yellow ochre and the light red ochre is also very nice. High on pigment with good coverage so it won't take 10 million coats. Good finish too.