demonborger

I told you it that it would work and is easy solution
 
I've used the spray on over 200 cannons and it looks fine.

If you plan on making the gallery windows clear then you should be able to see the entire upper gundeck. So plank the entire length in one effort, with special attention to getting the exposed planks (6 to 12) looking nice and pretty..
 
They way they have it silly, i think they were probably thinking "do the areas under the upper false decks first, add the upper false decks, then plank the exposed part of the lower gundeck" Not sure why though....
 
So plank the entire length of it in one application. Probably start from the centre and plank each way if it gives you a nice look there.

The 1x2mm wood is used on the masts and for the railings. 
 
A wooden wheel would've been nice but in the end it is not that visible in the build anyway (it's behind the dual staircase).
 
I wish a manufacturer produces nice slender wooden belaying pins at that size but sadly they tend to be very fat little things...
 
Mamoli kits use older build techniques (there is almost no laser cut parts other than the bulkheads, false keel and false deck on recent releases). So no fancy gunport templates ala Occre and Caldercraft. The wood quality is ok for some and a bit raggedy for others. Some fittings are really good (the metal anchors are the nicest I've seen).
 
One of the best things about Mamoli is they have some of the most aesthetically beautiful subjects, it's probably their greatest strength. The Freisland and Royal Louis are two of the most beautiful ship model kits on market.
 
Mamoli kits also have a very robust construction designs with a very solid false keel and a lot of bulkheads, so will provide a great base for kit bashing (as many do to avoid the metal gunports..which aren't that bad..   ). 

The 1x2mm wood is used on the masts and for the railings. 
 
A wooden wheel would've been nice but in the end it is not that visible in the build anyway (it's behind the dual staircase).
 
I wish a manufacturer produces nice slender wooden belaying pins at that size but sadly they tend to be very fat little things...
 
Mamoli kits use older build techniques (there is almost no laser cut parts other than the bulkheads, false keel and false deck on recent releases). So no fancy gunport templates ala Occre and Caldercraft. The wood quality is ok for some and a bit raggedy for others. Some fittings are really good (the metal anchors are the nicest I've seen).
 
One of the best things about Mamoli is they have some of the most aesthetically beautiful subjects, it's probably their greatest strength. The Freisland and Royal Louis are two of the most beautiful ship model kits on market.
 
Mamoli kits also have a very robust construction designs with a very solid false keel and a lot of bulkheads, so will provide a great base for kit bashing (as many do to avoid the metal gunports..which aren't that bad..   ). 

The 1x2mm wood is used on the masts and for the railings. 
 
A wooden wheel would've been nice but in the end it is not that visible in the build anyway (it's behind the dual staircase).
 
I wish a manufacturer produces nice slender wooden belaying pins at that size but sadly they tend to be very fat little things...
 
Mamoli kits use older build techniques (there is almost no laser cut parts other than the bulkheads, false keel and false deck on recent releases). So no fancy gunport templates ala Occre and Caldercraft. The wood quality is ok for some and a bit raggedy for others. Some fittings are really good (the metal anchors are the nicest I've seen).
 
One of the best things about Mamoli is they have some of the most aesthetically beautiful subjects, it's probably their greatest strength. The Freisland and Royal Louis are two of the most beautiful ship model kits on market.
 
Mamoli kits also have a very robust construction designs with a very solid false keel and a lot of bulkheads, so will provide a great base for kit bashing (as many do to avoid the metal gunports..which aren't that bad..   ). 

I did the adjusting during dry fit and then glued everything together 
 
The quarter deck, forecastle and poop deck (or the upper decks generally) can all be adjusted easily at anytime. When you do them their heights are important to give the gallery frames a nice snug fit. Too tight and you will be forced to grind them down a bit, too loose and you will need to pack the gaps (i made them a bit too loose..)
 
With the decks the main things to worry about are:
1) The quarter deck and forecastle deck are curved and not flat. For both that depends largely on the columns and beams. It is important because the galleries are also curved, and that of course it is historical practice. So that should be fine until you get to that stage.
2) The upper gundeck consists of multiple pieces and if you plan to have clear gallery windows so you can see the entire deck then you should try to get it as level as possible (it will probably have a slight elevation which is ok if not excessive), but even then you can only see so much and the columns are more important there.
3) The exposed part of the upper gun deck is the main concern imo as it is what is exposed and where the most trouble will be with the joints. Try to get it as level as possible. but remember the stairs and the cannons under them can hide small imperfections. I ended up using some filler to get the level right at the joints before covering it with the tanganyka planks.
4) getting the gunport level is probably more important again and the carriages have a lot of leeway in sizing options if you use them (they will actually probably need to be lowered on the exposed upper gundeck)
 
 
 
The biggest problem to solve with the decks is to get the columns and beams to be at the correct heights. That can be adjusted after, it might be a tiny bit fiddly at times due to awkward angles and lack of space but not impossible.
 
When you assemble the decks at the stern, do so with the metal galleries dry fitted, also dry fit the banisters, getting the right curvature is important, and ensuring the back isn't lopsided is vital.

I plank mine using my thighs as a clamp and as a table
 
The surface area of the hull below the wales is absolutely huge, it gives a sense of the size of a 120+ gun first rate much better than the Occre Santisima Trinidad.

Ah yes, I have pinned on some of the midship chainplates and am doing parts of the deck furniture currently, but I am also distracted by other projects such as my Santisima Trinidad.
 
The idea is to complete the ships hulls including fittings and then do the masts for each and then the rigging.

Don't forget to pin the parts if they are big enough, drill some small holes and put a brass rod between them.

Blue may not be historically accurate but it looks so much better than the red. The gold decoration contrasts beautifully with the blue.

Why not try another ship and wait for the Amati Victory if that is your desire?
 
Perhaps the Agamemnon (also in 1:64)?

Anyone know much about the Santa Ana kit?

Mamoli Victory kit is quite different to some of the other ones on the market.
 
The gun ports are metal and have a notch in the back for the false guns. If you master the technique of attaching them and take the time to get a nice level guideline for their positions (the notches in the bulkheads are usually wrong in practice) then they can be a lot of fun and produce a nice result.
 
Mamoli doesn't supply photo-etched super high detailed parts so if you want those then you will have to scratch them yourself, but it is 1:90 scale anyway so if you don't mind that isn't an issue.
 
The only laser cut parts for the Mamoli Victory are the false keel parts, the bulkheads, the false decks and a few shaping pieces for the stern, bow and quarter galleries. A lot of things will have to be scratch build with the material supplied. If you take the time and enjoy that then it will be a fun build, otherwise it could be something of a nightmare.
 
The size of the Mamoli kit is perfect, big enough for detailing but not too big so as the take up a lot of room.

Lol I mean to post this in the kits section 

I recommend finding a good matt finish spray to apply after the paint job, it will help flatten the colours and ensure that the reflective properties are uniform.  But firstly TEST IT!!! Sometimes if use in wrong situation or with wrong technique or atmosphere conditions it can cause flaking.

Personally I think Tanganyka looks the best for deck planking and you can source it from cornwall model boats.
 
Another suggestion is to purchase some red paduac(k) also, in 1x3mm.
I suggest it because:
1. The metal gunports (or wooden substitutes) stick out, having the extra material makes it look better.
2. Many people like a red Santisima Trinidad and red paduac is one way to achieve it.
3. The walnut wales are 4mmx2mm and will still stick out above the 1mmx3mm paduac. They won't be as prominent but will look better,
4. 3mm lengths work because the plans indicate the gap is 12mm between wales, enough for 4x3mm approximately.

Why not try another ship and wait for the Amati Victory if that is your desire?
 
Perhaps the Agamemnon (also in 1:64)?

Ah yes, I have pinned on some of the midship chainplates and am doing parts of the deck furniture currently, but I am also distracted by other projects such as my Santisima Trinidad.
 
The idea is to complete the ships hulls including fittings and then do the masts for each and then the rigging.

I don't think there is a kit of that, or the Endurance. One would think that interest in Antarctic exploration would rank alongside the voyages of other explorers such as Cook and Columbus and even Darwin.

Why not try another ship and wait for the Amati Victory if that is your desire?
 
Perhaps the Agamemnon (also in 1:64)?

Honestly I have no idea why the Royal Louis has so few builds :/
 
http://gallery.shipmodeling.ru/main.php?g2_itemId=76728
 
There is a Russian build which is so so so so much better than mine :/
 
Some parts can be changed (wooden head rails instead of cast metal) if the builder so desires, and the instructions could be a lot better. But the core ship in my mind is the most beautiful of all available in kit form.
 
Hmm I need to really finish off the hull of my mamoli Victory so people can see a comparison between the two. It will enlighten many

Caldercraft is the best on the market currently.
 
 
I have the Mamoli 1:90 kit, the instructions aren't so good but the basic skeleton is very solid and the kit can build into something nice. It is smaller which is an advantage and certainly better than the Corel, Constructo and Mantua ~1:98 kits.  That being said the Royal Louis by Mamoli is a much nicer kit.

Caldercraft is the best on the market currently.
 
 
I have the Mamoli 1:90 kit, the instructions aren't so good but the basic skeleton is very solid and the kit can build into something nice. It is smaller which is an advantage and certainly better than the Corel, Constructo and Mantua ~1:98 kits.  That being said the Royal Louis by Mamoli is a much nicer kit.

Ah yes, I have pinned on some of the midship chainplates and am doing parts of the deck furniture currently, but I am also distracted by other projects such as my Santisima Trinidad.
 
The idea is to complete the ships hulls including fittings and then do the masts for each and then the rigging.

Ah yes, I have pinned on some of the midship chainplates and am doing parts of the deck furniture currently, but I am also distracted by other projects such as my Santisima Trinidad.
 
The idea is to complete the ships hulls including fittings and then do the masts for each and then the rigging.